Buying a Rover 45 hatchback 1.8 mkii what to look for? - MG-Rover.org Forums
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-05-2017, 16:04 Thread Starter
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Buying a Rover 45 hatchback 1.8 mkii what to look for?

Hi,

I was previously looking for a 200 brm but because they're all so rusty I changed my view to a 45 MK2.

I'm wondering if they rust as heavy as the 200/25 series?

The car I'm going to view has done about 100.000 miles, had the headgasket, waterpump and cambelt done at about 90.000 miles in 2011. I believe the belt need a new change again but how about the waterpump? Seems to me that with only 10k miles it isn't necessary.
Is a cambelt change easy on a Rover?
Did it a few times on a Toyota and that was pretty easy though a lot of work of course.

Are there any other specific points I have to look for?

It's a 2004 MK2 and this is the link to the Dutch ad:
http://www.autoscout24.nl/Details.aspx?id=309950336
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-05-2017, 17:27
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Make sure all the electric's work as BCU relays are a common failure
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-05-2017, 11:37 Thread Starter
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What is a bcu relay?

And what about the rust and the cambelt?
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-05-2017, 15:08
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There are some relays in a module under the dash that can fail. Just check everything works, like the window go up and down, the horn works, wipers, central locking etc. If the window for example will only go down it means one of these relays has failed, so the module would need to be removed and a new relay soldered in place.
The mk2 cars suffer a little more from rust because the paint was a bit thinner but check the usual places round the wheel arches etc. It will soon show if the car is rusty or not. If it has been regularly cleaned and polished in its life it should be OK.
Timing belts are straight forward. You'll need a locking tool for the camshafts but they are very cheap. Changing a belt shouldn't take more then a couple of hours to even a novice. The pulleys are all plainly marked and there is plenty of manuals or information online on how to do it.
I hope it goes well, good luck.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-05-2017, 15:10
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Just looked at the link, it looks like a nice car. Looks well cared for in its life, I hope it's a nice one.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-05-2017, 08:29 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsto View Post
Just looked at the link, it looks like a nice car. Looks well cared for in its life, I hope it's a nice one.
Thanks!
Hopefully I'm able to go see it tomorrow or next week.

What do you guys advise on the waterpump? Leave it on while it only covered 10k miles? Waterpump is more miles dependant then years I guess?
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-05-2017, 19:38
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Cosmetically 45s of all ages don't seem to degrade at all, I have evidence they used zinc coated steel for the front wings and may be the rear arches as well because where my wife scraped the paint to the metal, there is still no rusting. This is deceiving because they can rot underneath particularly around the floor pan reinforcing area that supports the rear front subframe mountings.

BCU problems are reported, but I have a Mk2 with 134k miles and have had no problems whatsoever with the electrics. I would not buy one unless there are two key fobs.

I had a N/S front ball joint snap on the A628 Woodhead bypass at 50mph. Not great fun but despite the wheel being folded under the front wing the car remained controllable and I survived to tell the tale. The warning sign is a creaking sound from the front suspension.

25s do rot but not that badly. I have a V reg that is nearly 18 years old and a 53 plate (now in temporary retirement) that is close to 14 years old, both have well over 200k on the clock.

Last edited by Bunny_Brain; 05-05-2017 at 19:43.
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