Engine Died - please advise on these issues - MG-Rover.org Forums
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 17-12-2016, 15:14 Thread Starter
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Engine Died - please advise on these issues

Hi,

My 2005 Rover 45 1.4 started up today, drove out the gate, and died. I reveresed back into drive using starter motor. Less than 90,000 miles on it, did a 220 mile round trip yesterday, was fine.

There is no check engine light.
Cranking without plugs produces a smell of petrol , so I assume flywheel rotation is being detected.

I earthed plugs with a wire but was unable to produce a spark.

Is there a way to probe the three pin plug with a voltmeter to determine if ECU is attempting to fire the coils? Or does it switch earth and therefore not easily measured?

Any advice on how to proceed please?

There was a small drop of oil on the outside of plug one, but this could have been an oil spill whilst filling. Engine should still start even if carrier gasket on way out? Afterall, it did start and drive forward today.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 17-12-2016, 17:01 Thread Starter
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Update: Probing the disconnected three pin plug for the coils with ignition on...

One pin had 11.95
Middle pin had 11.45
third pin no voltage.

Surely this is wrong?

I imagined one power and two pins for switching coils to earth?

Also, fuel pump is receiving power at key on.

Any thoughts please?
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 17-12-2016, 17:46 Thread Starter
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Anyone got a wiring diagram for this model please?

Last edited by Bunsen Honeydew; 17-12-2016 at 18:00.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 17-12-2016, 20:04
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Have you got a code reader to get the fault codes?

If not, no spark will mean no go - so you are on the right track. Are all plugs not sparking? If one set on a shared coil pack aren't, and the others are, it's probably that coil pack. Worth checking connections as well into the ECU and crankshaft position sensor.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 17-12-2016, 20:51 Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Have you got a code reader to get the fault codes?

If not, no spark will mean no go - so you are on the right track. Are all plugs not sparking? If one set on a shared coil pack aren't, and the others are, it's probably that coil pack. Worth checking connections as well into the ECU and crankshaft position sensor.
I have no code reader, but...

(i) If the check engine light is not on, does that mean there is no code there?

(ii) Will any code reader do, or is there one recommended? Any pointers please?

Say worst case scenario ECU needs to be changed...where does that leave me as regards coding, keys etc? If getting a complete set to avoid recoding, what do I need?
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 17-12-2016, 21:27
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If there's no spark they'll be codes. You could get a cheap obd2 reader for 10+ on eBay etc. Or borrow one from friend or family. I wouldn't jump to the conclusion it's the ecu too quickly could be lots of things.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 17-12-2016, 21:35 Thread Starter
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What is the best/correct way to test if injectors and coil packs are being driven correctly by the ECU please?

Also, if there is a mild weep from carrier gasket - can that happen without it being the end of the world?
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 18-12-2016, 10:16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bunsen Honeydew View Post
I have no code reader, but...

(i) If the check engine light is not on, does that mean there is no code there?

(ii) Will any code reader do, or is there one recommended? Any pointers please?
The MIL only comes on where the code is related to emissions, most codes wont illuminate the MIL.

Some cheap readers won't connect to all cars so check that one you are considering will do Rover/MG/Land Rover.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 18-12-2016, 15:17 Thread Starter
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Turned out to be stuck piston rings that in turn fouled the plugs somehow.

Soaked cylinders n oil and it all came back to life.

i'm running 05w 30 fully synthetic - maybe i brought this on myself?
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 18-12-2016, 17:07
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bunsen Honeydew View Post
Turned out to be stuck piston rings that in turn fouled the plugs somehow.

Soaked cylinders n oil and it all came back to life.

i'm running 05w 30 fully synthetic - maybe i brought this on myself?
How has that diagnosis come about? Sounds like the sort of thing that would kill an engine tbh.

10w40 semi synth is best for a K-series. Some people do use 5w30 FS but I think it's too thin.
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 18-12-2016, 21:20
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Quote:
Turned out to be stuck piston rings that in turn fouled the plugs somehow
I don't think you mean 'piston rings'.

However, glad it's working again, and I would definitely recommend using 10W40 oil unless you have a valid reason otherwise. Indeed, as engines get older, they probably need something thicker, rather than thinner.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 19-12-2016, 09:34
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Yeah, use 10w40 as recommended. The oil fouled plugs should have been quite obvious when you took them out to test the spark (black), and needed cleaning before the test. Glad you got it fixed.

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