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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 12:01 Thread Starter
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Removing seats to transport a door

I need a new back door, and having found what I want on eBay, I'm faced with figuring out how to shift it. (The journey is about 30 miles, of which 20 is motorway.)

Most likely I'll have to hire a van, but it will just about fit if I remove the passenger seats. So my first question is how difficult is this? (It's a 400, so there are no SRS issues.)

Unfortunately, I estimate that the tailgate won't quite close, which makes me think I might trash the back window if I hit a bump! Any thoughts?

I also have a roof-rack. However, unless there's a trick I don't know of, it's only possible to get the bars about 80cm apart, which just isn't enough.

It's a pity to shell out about 50 in hire costs for just a few inches of difficulty, but I fear it's my only choice, since I'll still save well over 100. The door, incidentally, is a big heavy UPVC affair with a frame, not a lightweight timber job.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 12:32
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I was going to ask if it was a back door for the car or the house until I got to the last paragraph - LOL

Is yours a hatch or a saloon?
On the ZS saloon the opening between boot and main body isn't very big.

Personally I'd just fold the seats, take some blankets to protect the door and some rope or bungee straps to keep the boot from moving.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 13:51 Thread Starter
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It's a hatchback, but the seats will definitely have to come fully out, and even then it's tight. (I spent about 30 minutes with a tape measure trying to figure something out.)

Theoretically, it might be possible to tilt the door up so that it passes between the rear suspension mounts and above the driver's head. This has the advantage that the rear hatch will shut, but the seats would still have to come out in order to manoeuvre it into place. These doors are also incredibly heavy, so clever ideas like that, are unlikely to work in practice!

I also considered using only one bar of my roof rack (at the front) but I can't figure out a way to secure it adequately at the back.

I think I'll have to bite the bullet and hire a van - the really annoying thing is that most of the small ones are too small, which means that I'll have to be super careful with what I hire. (Also, the friendly place I used to use no longer hires out. It's all very irritating for a few inches.)
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 17:39
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It might be worth asking local courier firms for a price, especially if you are flexible on times.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 19:02
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I managed a similar load in my ZS hatch by dropping rear seats and placing one end on top of front seats with other end in boot up against slam panel.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 21:07 Thread Starter
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Quote:
It might be worth asking local courier firms for a price, especially if you are flexible on times.
Unfortunately, the seller says that the buyer must collect in person, no couriers. I can see his point, because if the courier damages it, but says it was like that all along, it's a nightmare.

I did have an idea though - if I open the window, I might be able to angle it flatter and leave the front passenger seat in place. I guess a few more minutes with a tape measure beckon!
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 22:57
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A bit zany may be but if you gave me a challenge to transport the door too big for the inside of the car I would look at the idea of how I used to carry a big canoe on the roof. The canoe has loops to tie onto at each end. which are tied to either side with rope like a big A to both left and right of the front and rear bumper area. And tie or bunggee the middle of the load to the bars.

But if I cannot tie onto the load on the roof/either side of the bumpers, I get some long wood eg like a couple or so of the cheap 3 x 2 inch by 8 feet timber (costs 3 each new unless old bits are to hand) and drill holes in to so it can be tied to the roof bars and front/rear bumper/tow eyes etc and secure the load to the wood. may be even make the wood into a part frame.

May be an idea to look on youtube as to how they transport canoes and boats on the roofs of cars. Some do not even use roof bars (just padding) because of the way the strap down the load at the middle and then at either end to each corner of the front and rear of the car

Last edited by Ed3; 11-03-2017 at 23:15.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-03-2017, 01:54 Thread Starter
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The problem with attempting any sort of roof solution is the weight. I assume it will be comparable to my front door which I replaced a few years ago. That I had delivered, no problem, but you would not believe how heavy both door and frame were together. (My best guess, around 60 Kg, but it might have been more.)

Granted, that's a composite door, not UPVC, so this one might not be quite so bad. But I'm collecting rather than delivering, so I won't have a chance to experiment. Also, we're talking about a busy (I assume) commercial London street, so I may not be able to stop very long.

On the other hand, I may be able to collect it with the glass separate, which would reduce the weight a lot.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-03-2017, 11:24
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Canoes are a lot lighter than doors, and normally the load capacity of the roof is 50kg anyway.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-03-2017, 13:00
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I am holding the manufacturers Rover 45 owners manual and it says the roof rack capacity on all Rover 45 is 65kg. Which is just over 10 stone. So a single door should be OK?

Can the glass go inside the car and the door on the roof?

Last edited by Ed3; 12-03-2017 at 14:10.
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 13-03-2017, 01:26
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I just noticed the comment about the tail gate may not shut. I often carry things with the ail gate open by a few inches or more. I use camping mats between the load and the tail gate. And a couple of bungees around the wiper spindle and down to the tow hook or similar underneath the car. The bungee should doubled etc to not allow a bounce.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 15-03-2017, 00:35
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Get around the width problem between the roof bars by laying 3 lengths of 2x2 timber across the bars and using those as bearers. Decent straps/strops can be had in Jewsons for a few quid and have ratchets so you`ll defo be able to make the load secure.

I`d take the extra precaution of wrapping the door in a thick blanket before you strap it down, just to make sure your paintwork is in no danger whatsoever.

Take it easy with your right foot whilst travelling back on the motorway and the jobs a good un!

Best of luck with it.
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