Rover 45 ECU changed - MG-Rover.org Forums
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017, 16:55 Thread Starter
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Rover 45 ECU changed

Hi there ,
A newby to this site and I am looking for some knowledge. My daughter in law has an Xreg rover 45 and I think we have blown the ECU. Don't ask, it was a duff battery which we tried to charge up and jump start Anyway I have now changed all the blown fuses but the while the engine turns over it doesn't fire and there is no immobilser or horn funtioning.

Most people on forums seem to think it is the ECU and immobiliser ECU so I have been looking on Fleabay etc. The ECU is an NNN100742 but there is also a white lable with a YD489736 number on it.

Now one Fleabay merchant says that any ECU NN100742 and matched 5AS unit will work but another seller says that the white label code has to match too.

Any Ideas anyone? and do I need just the ECU and 5AS or do I need inductor rings, door locks ,etc?
Cheers

Clive
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-03-2017, 18:02
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The white paper label only has part of the VIN number on it, nothing more.

Any 742 ECU/5AS set will work provided they are a match pair from the same car.

No need to change locks or the exciter coil from the ignition barrel.

Free Fob Programming and Diagnostics for forum Supporters... see here.

Pektron SCU/BCU Technical Information and Common Faults... see here.

Discounted Pektron SCU/BCU Relay Replacement for forum Supporters... see here.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-03-2017, 21:06
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I assume you charged the battery on the car, if not, the chances of blowing the ECU are remote. Even if you did charge the battery on the car, it's by no means certain that it killed anything. Engine bays are an incredibly hostile environment for electronics, therefore these items are necessarily robust.

Re: Basics
Have you checked for a spark? If there is, then it may be a fuel issue. If not, then it could be a failed sensor cam or crank (I forget which) being the most likely. A failed temperature sensor is also an outside bet.

Lack of fuel could be due to the cut-off switch (near driver's left knee). This is only supposed to activate in the event of an accident, but is worth checking.

Re: Dashboard
Do all the lights work correctly? Engine Warning, ABS and SRS should all come on and go off. The oil and Battery lights should stay on.

Re: Minor electrics
Do the windows and wipers, etc still work?

Re: Alarm
After recharging the battery, mine sometimes get confused. In which case, simply disconnecting one terminal for ten seconds and then reconnecting sorts it out.

Re: Fuses
What fuses blew and at what stage? Also, have you checked that none have blown again?
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-03-2017, 22:02
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Hi and welcome to the forum.

I assume you have a lucas (rectangular fob with rounded corners).

It might be worth trying to rematch the fob to the car by pressing lock and unlock multiple (at least five) times.

What it the red alarm LED doing?

James
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-03-2017, 23:35
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I just remembered that your alarm has battery backup (I think) whereas my 400 does not. So simply disconnecting the battery is unlikely to reset it.

It might still be confused though.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 08:29 Thread Starter
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Thanks all for the useful info. The battery needed charging and I had a spare in the garage so we swapped batteries. However the "spare" battery had an issue and when I put it on the car along with a booster charge pack it blew the fuses. It also messed up the charge pack! We charged the original battery and put it on the car and that is of course when I found out the fuses had gone.

I have checked all the fuses (more than once) and all are ok both in the engine bay and in the drivers footwell. All the lights on the dash are OK but the horn doesn't work, the radio does not work and the immobiliser light does not flash. I have tried resetting with the key method of inputting the alarm code into the door lock but nothing. The engine turns over OK but no ignition.

I understand the horn relay is part of the ECU and as there is no immobiliser light I can only assume that it is the ECU and Immobiliser unit. I have order a matched pair from Fleabay which will arrive next week.

I will change the parts over and see what happens. Do I eed to reprogramme the "new" ECU with the vehicles EKA code and vin numbers etc?

Clive
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 12:40
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Inputting the EKA through the door lock only overrides the immobiliser, it doesn't reset the alarm ECU or match the fob.

As long as you have a matched set of fob, ECU and 5AS it should work straight away.
The new set up will have its own EKA which can be extracted with the correct diagnostic equipment.
You don't need to add the VIN, it's only there as a double check to show the car isn't a ringer.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 13:10
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Does this charge pack function as an inverter as well? I can imagine how a 220 volt surge might cause fuses to blow, otherwise I'm at a loss to understand what happened.

My recollection (which may be wrong) is that the sounder (located under the expansion tank) contains a backup battery for the alarm. Disconnecting both the main battery and the backup for ten minutes is guaranteed to reset the system if it's still functional - and if the radio still works, there has to be hope.

That said, as robust as car electronics are, 220 volts (or even 110 volts) could kill just about anything - even military spec!
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 16:32 Thread Starter
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All good info thanks. I will know what is what once the ECU arrives next week. I will also be VERY careful when charging the battery!

No the boost pack is not an inverter but something is definitley wrong with my spare battery.

I still feel that there are other issues with the car apart from the ECU but for the money I paid for the spare ecu, Immobilser, fobs etc it's worth a punt.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 20:24
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It isn't unusual to spike the ECU when jump starting.

The alarm sounder is indeed under the header tank and does have a back up battery, however it isn't also used as a horn, this/these are behind the front bumper.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-03-2017, 10:54 Thread Starter
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Well The ECU and 5AS have arrived and the ECU has been fitted but where in the hell is the 5AS located? I have searched up around the steering wheel, in the glove box area. I have removed the trim and carpet around and above the peddles and I have removed the glove box. Still no joy. Searching web images now. The vehicle is an Xreg 45. I know thet various trim changes and updates would often relocte parts but I'm stuck or blind at the moment!
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-03-2017, 17:35 Thread Starter
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Well I did eventually find the Immobiliser, it was behind the heater controls, Radio and Ashtray in the centre of the vehicle necessitating the removal of centre console, the trim, Radio, heater switches etc. Much cussing and swearing later and the same fault exists. I Did a bit of a sneaky and had the breakdown recovery homestart man look at it who came to exactly the same conclusion as I did. The immobilser has kicked in and needs resetting! Oh well the car is now at a friendly garage who will plug in a reader and see what they can do. I still think there is either a sensor or wiring fault on the car as the whole thing started with the battery going flat because the cooling fan runs on and stays on until the battery is dead.

I will update.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 18-03-2017, 09:27 Thread Starter
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Well we are back up and running! It appears that the main 150 amp fue had blown so it was nothing to do with the ECU or Immobiliser. I cannot understand how if the main fuse blows then why is there still power to some circuits in the vehicle. I would have thought the main fuse would stop all power. Also when those large fuses blow there is no visible indication that the fuse has blown, no mark or change of colour, nothing. a blown fuse looks as good as an unblown fuse. Anyway my daughter in law is back on the road which is what counts.
Thanks to all you wonderful people who chipped in along the way with thoughts, ideas and information.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 18-03-2017, 10:01
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No, when main fuse is blown, some vital car functions will not work, like you cannot start the car, but other circuits are still powered from car battery.
Main fuse has its circuit, but other circuits does not depend on it.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 18-03-2017, 16:13
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Good news, thank you for letting us know.
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