Alloy Wheel Refurb - How To with Pics. - Page 2 - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #21 of 39 (permalink) Old 16-04-2007, 05:57
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I really like that !!

Got me inspired to do my own - only fear is though unlike the MG badges I have the silver Rover ones and just know the paint wont match!!! Any ideas?
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post #22 of 39 (permalink) Old 02-05-2007, 21:27
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Smile nice work

hi mate like the work there.

i have just done 2 of my 16" momo's for my R200. i have just one question mate. That filler you used looks a bit better than regular P38 is it recommended for alloys ? (ive never heard of it sorry)

where you get the filler from ?

cheers

MACKA
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post #23 of 39 (permalink) Old 02-05-2007, 22:23 Thread Starter
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You can get 'flexi' filler from pretty much anywhere including Halfrauds!

Normal filler 'will' work but is more liable to cracking over a shorter period of time due to the stresses endured on wheels
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post #24 of 39 (permalink) Old 18-02-2008, 21:08
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Smile Holy Thread Revival Batman!!

I know this is an old thread but over the weekend I followed this guide to refurb one of my 18" straight alloys. The process is pretty staright forward and the results are impressive to say the least.

The refurb is not 100% perfect but compared to what I had before the results are night and day. The paint match using the Vauxhall silver is pretty good and you cannot notice a difference vs the other wheels when they are on the car.

I think the quality of a job that you do depends very much on your persistence and level of patience - especially on sanding down the filler to get a smooth finish. I took a couple of goes at it to get it right.

So, all in all I would reccommend this to anyone wanting to have a go and also, A BIG THANK YOU TO MGCORACLE THE OP for posting the pictures! Cheers.

Wheel before refurb :
[/IMG]
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post #25 of 39 (permalink) Old 18-02-2008, 21:10
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and now the bling bling "new" wheel.....
[IMG][/IMG]
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post #26 of 39 (permalink) Old 19-02-2008, 05:39
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good stuff people... perhaps you should start driving away from kerbs now lol

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post #27 of 39 (permalink) Old 24-07-2008, 19:06
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are you sure that putty is correct, i just gave it a go and its extremely slippery and wont adhere to the metal
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post #28 of 39 (permalink) Old 24-07-2008, 19:20
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Originally Posted by *Mike* View Post
Well I read some very good reviews and also a guy on one of the C4 forums I go on has bought them and he seems to like them.

I got mine from FalkenTyres.co.uk for 64.11 each.

My car actually has the original Michelin Pilot Exalto PE2's still fitted and after nearly 30000 miles the fronts have had it. Citroen quoted 170 each for these tyres, a local tyre place quotes 121, so i got two tyres for not much more than 1 of the Michelins.

The Michelins are excellent in the dry, but crap in the wet. Im hoping these Falkens are better.
I bought 452's a few weeks ago, and they're fab. Real good middle range tyre. mine grips like a leach!! Had Conti's on before and the Falkens are much better. Wet grip is awsome too. Road noise isn't too bad either. Great job on those wheels too. Well done.

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post #29 of 39 (permalink) Old 24-07-2008, 19:25
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Spraying with tyres on

It is worth noting that if you coat the tyre walls carefully with neat washing up liquid you can spray your wheels with gay abandon because the tyres will come up like new with water and a bristle scrubbing brush once the paint has dried.
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post #30 of 39 (permalink) Old 24-07-2008, 20:39
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you just need some new centre cap decals now! Any idea if they are available separately, anyone, as mine are bit tatty....
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post #31 of 39 (permalink) Old 24-07-2008, 23:24
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Originally Posted by shadybarry218iS View Post
are you sure that putty is correct, i just gave it a go and its extremely slippery and wont adhere to the metal
Yes, don't like that stuff either I use a 2 part filler that is super glue based with a filler powder. Very strong and if you use a cyanoacrylate primer first is as hard as the alloy. It's called Q-Bond, approx 12 comes as a complete kit 2 bottles of adhesive and 2 pots of filler powder one for plastics (black) and the other for alloy (grey) heat resistant to 180 degrees C, oil and petrol resistant and is sandable. You can fix engine castings with this stuff, recommend it for a whole range of uses and repairs, instant too dries in seconds.

Note. Will only stick to bare alloy no good for filling paint

Worked on mine a treat, one set re-furbished another set to go.

Russ

Last edited by bigruss42; 24-07-2008 at 23:30.
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post #32 of 39 (permalink) Old 02-09-2008, 13:07
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Quick question. Did you find the wheels out of balance when you put them back on due to adding filler. 20g of anything would make a difference. Plus do they stand up to a power wash without flaking. it’s a bugger when you put effort into a job for it to go heads up in 6month down the line.
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post #33 of 39 (permalink) Old 02-09-2008, 18:15
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I'm doing this on 14" citroen alloys. I cannot for the life of me spray it without getting runs and cannot get even coverage any tips?

Chris
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post #34 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-09-2008, 08:27
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I've occasionally come across the same problem over the years.

I think often you just get a bad can of paint (maybe from a bad batch). I would try getting the same colour from a different spray paint manufacturer.

Last year I tried to re-spray a mates door mirror for him and ended up chucking the spray tin away and buying another one elsewhere.

ps make sure you first coats are very, very light. Later coats can be slightly heavier as they stick to the first coats.
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post #35 of 39 (permalink) Old 18-10-2009, 22:59
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new to the forums really so thought it time i put some input in.
a few tips
i use a two part chemical metal not filler as filler isnt strong enough and wont last
if your struggling to paint without runs then go grab the missus hairdryer and warm the wheels up first and put the paint cans in some hot water for 15 mins before you use them
use very very light coats at first building up thickness
if your painting in your garage or outside spray some water on the floor to help with dust contamination
high build primer will help if your crap at sanding but it takes longer to dry so dont put to thick a coat on at a time
finally DO NOT final sand metallic paint before the laquer it doesnt need it and the grains in the metallic can be damaged


some previous results of mine


i get these results without any sanding in between coats other than after the primer and they hadnt had a first polish yet




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post #36 of 39 (permalink) Old 19-10-2009, 12:22
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Love that almost chrome effect on the second shot. What paint was that?!
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post #37 of 39 (permalink) Old 21-10-2009, 22:06
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Love that almost chrome effect on the second shot. What paint was that?!
it was just very shiny black lol !!
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post #38 of 39 (permalink) Old 21-04-2017, 12:34
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I the original user still on this site?
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post #39 of 39 (permalink) Old 21-04-2017, 12:42
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Is the original poster still on this forum these days?
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