Decided to get my MG6 Engined MG ZT-T 1.8T running and off SORN. Been SORN unused for eighteen months now. Bought saving it from scrapyard fate after previous owner had a travelling K-Series specialist remove the cylinder head. Decided not to repair and I bought car with its cylinder head and all removed parts in Tourer loadspace towing it home like that. Here it is on arrival home :~
Previous owner drained tank of several gallons of fuel via the In-Tank Fuel Filter Access Panel when it looked likely car off to breakers. So one of the first tasks was to reassemble that which was in a bit of a state. Sometime later with original headless engine removed and MG6 engine in place, started MG6 engine and ran it for a few seconds to confirm it was a runner. Very hesitant to start but, fired up after a few seconds. Started occasionally in the meantime and again hesitant or non-start. When start failed got it running by squirting a few drops of RON 75 into the Inlet Manifold via the Brake Servo Vacuum Tube take off. That results in immediate start. Past couple of days, I have completed 99% of the reassembly of all removed parts and charged and bled the cooling system with 50-50 OAT Coolant. It did start then but again only with a squirt of RON 75 into the Inlet Manifold. Engine then runs smoothly and warmed up nicely with strong heater output too. Always a good sign that for me.
Then, on fully warmed engine switch off, car would start immediately every time whilst warm. However, if left to cool, it would not start only with a squirt of fuel.
So based on this scenario which has been happening over the past few days, my automotive amateur analytical mind now believes that any residual pressure in the fuel lines in the warm engine will enable the engine to start every time. When allowed to cool say overnight, needs a squirt of RON 75 to start. So it looks like the fuel pressure is being lost as the engine cools.
So, a quick look into the In-Tank Fuel Filter will be necessary. Which as far as I know was the only part disturbed when removing the fuel previously by the then owner.
So, from the above description, a question for those far more experienced in these matters than I. Have I correctly identified the problem is the In-Tank Filter needing attention or, is the Fuel Pump the guilty party here? Maybe both...
In any event, I will disassemble the In-Tank Filter and fit a new large O-Ring and Clip. If that does not do the trick then The Pump may be the guilty party after all.
Any thoughts on this will be appreciated before I look at the Fuel Supply issues more closely.
Thanks in advance.