The pipes are both in full lengths and the connectors are just where the drivers foot board is. I found out you cannot go wrong as the connectors are different sizes, to tell the truth i used my old unions and if you buy the pure copper pipe and get your self a flaring tool which only cost about £20 on eBay you can flare them yourself, again i did mine under the car because this way i could fix to clips until i got near the end then measure the exact length i wanted cut pipe and flared it.
If possible get the car up on four proper axle stands, as i said the drivers side pipe is very easy to do, just unclip and undo the union's you will find it is easier to replace all the clips on the floor pan, BUT try not to break the ones on the sill side at the back ( Rimmer sell the clips)
Re the one that goes over the tank cut the pipe on the drivers side of the tank undo the union on the flexi pipe on the passenger side then pull carefully so it doesn't catch on any wires or hoses on top of the tank. You will find it pulls of the two clips and comes free. Some people cut the old pipe both sides of the tank and leave the old pipe connected it is up to you. What I did then was not to cut any new copper pipe of the new roll but feed it carefully over the tank drivers side to pasenger , when it has gone right over i then put the union on and flared the pipe, connected it to n/s flexi clipped it back onto the clips i could reach, then put some rubber pipe around it and attached it with tie wraps to the tank straps at the top (The Rubber Pipe stops it rubbing) then on the drivers side attach it as the passenger side. IE tie wrap, rubber pipe top of tank then to the clips at the back and work towards front clipping it and unrolling it when you get to where they go through suspension measure with a bit of string the exact length you need, cut the pipe from the roll and flare the pipe then feed through suspension and connect it to its union. I always fill the reservoir undo bleed nipples and let the fluid just run out under its own pressure until it is running clear nip up nipples and bleed system. I have a proper air line pressure bleeder but if not start from the farthest away from the master cylinder o/s rear then n/s rear then o/s front then n/s front bleed until no air and fresh fluid. You only cannot manage to clip the pipe onto the two clips above the petrol tank. I asked at least four MOT testers and all said they would not drop exhaust tank etc and as long as the new pipe was secure and not rubbing any where they would pass them . I also sprayed black paint on the new pipes and covered them in grease I know they are copper but it stops them oxidising hope this helps . basham