engine stutter at 3k revs on 3rd and 4th gears - MG-Rover.org Forums
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-05-2017, 20:05 Thread Starter
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Question engine stutter at 3k revs on 3rd and 4th gears

hello i have a slight annoyance with my1.8 t, when first start driving i notice a judder or a slight hesitation from the engine when it reaches 3k revs on 3rd and fourth gear... it's like
the engine pauses or loses power for a split second . earlier i noticed it happening on 2nd gear as well, i just started driving off out of a junction and i nearly cut off this other car and so i floored the gas pedal, the hesitation was apparent on second gear with the sudden jerk. sometimes it won't happen when the engine's been running a while, sometimes it still does. cant really test much cause my daily commute is only 6.2 miles one way.

also not related the engine seems to heat up quite quickly, like the engine temp needle on the dash goes to the middle only after a few miles of driving, compared to my old 1995 214 with the 1.4 engine it takes 6 miles for the needle to go to the middle. ive only been driving my 75 a few weeks so pardon the ignorance.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-05-2017, 20:17
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When functioning correctly the k series do get to temp quickly, which is good. Your 214 prob had a bad thermostat​ if it didn't.

Is the 1.8T up to temp when it stutters? If it's still in choke mode it maybe won't run as smoothly. Otherwise, is it serviced and clear of fault codes? Has the fuel filter been checked and changed in the reasonable past?

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-05-2017, 20:27 Thread Starter
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When functioning correctly the k series do get to temp quickly, which is good. Your 214 prob had a bad thermostat​ if it didn't.

Is the 1.8T up to temp when it stutters?
not so much when it is

If it's still in choke mode it maybe won't run as smoothly.
what's choke mode?


Otherwise, is it serviced and clear of fault codes? Has the fuel filter been checked and changed in the reasonable past?
no idea about the fault codes and the fuel filter but oil and coolant's been done november
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-05-2017, 20:37 Thread Starter
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When functioning correctly the k series do get to temp quickly, which is good. Your 214 prob had a bad thermostat​ if it didn't.

Is the 1.8T up to temp when it stutters? If it's still in choke mode it maybe won't run as smoothly. Otherwise, is it serviced and clear of fault codes? Has the fuel filter been checked and changed in the reasonable past?
i just looked up the fuel filter is in the tank? how come
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-05-2017, 21:36
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i just looked up the fuel filter is in the tank? how come
It's in the tank to keep it out of the way and the safest place for it. It's a lifetime fit filter that would normally never need replacing - unless you were to open it up to check it. The element will be black with debris and you will change it for appearance's sake. It will get as bad again with a year or two and is perfectly normal. The primary issue with later fuel filters (post-2001) is slackening of the filter case-cap joint. It's referred to as Fuel Filter Syndrome (FFS). You can search for threads on it by searching for the term. This reduces delivery pressure. and eventually the car will refuse to start. Before it develops fully, the engine suffers fuel delivery problems, poor starting, lack of acceleration. The only permanent fix is the Fabled Orange Clip (search term FOC). You might try reducing the spark plug gaps to 0.5-0.7mm which many 1.8T owners find improves the smoothness of acceleration. There's only around 6 litres of cooklant in these engines, so warm up is rapid. It also means any leaks can be especially deadly if owners are less than diligent. They need TLC all the time. The temperature gauge isn't really much use. It hits 'normal' at 75C and the needle stays there until an unrecognised overheat takes it to 115C. From there it skyrockets, but the damage may already be done. So, I'd suggest you learn how to run the Trip Screen Diagnostic mode to check normal running temperature. It should be around 90C all year round. Check coolant level regularly/daily at first. If you have to top up to the MAX marker, there's a leak (see above). Check that the 2-speed radiator fan runs as it should. It should start engine cooling at 104C. It should also run continuously whenever the aircon systen operates. Check the fan starts immediately when the Demist button is pressed (engine ticking over). If not, there's a fault that must be fixed. All the answers are around the forum once you know what to look for. TC
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-05-2017, 22:44 Thread Starter
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It's in the tank to keep it out of the way and the safest place for it. It's a lifetime fit filter that would normally never need replacing - unless you were to open it up to check it. The element will be black with debris and you will change it for appearance's sake. It will get as bad again with a year or two and is perfectly normal. The primary issue with later fuel filters (post-2001) is slackening of the filter case-cap joint. It's referred to as Fuel Filter Syndrome (FFS). You can search for threads on it by searching for the term. This reduces delivery pressure. and eventually the car will refuse to start. Before it develops fully, the engine suffers fuel delivery problems, poor starting, lack of acceleration. The only permanent fix is the Fabled Orange Clip (search term FOC). You might try reducing the spark plug gaps to 0.5-0.7mm which many 1.8T owners find improves the smoothness of acceleration. There's only around 6 litres of cooklant in these engines, so warm up is rapid. It also means any leaks can be especially deadly if owners are less than diligent. They need TLC all the time. The temperature gauge isn't really much use. It hits 'normal' at 75C and the needle stays there until an unrecognised overheat takes it to 115C. From there it skyrockets, but the damage may already be done. So, I'd suggest you learn how to run the Trip Screen Diagnostic mode to check normal running temperature. It should be around 90C all year round. Check coolant level regularly/daily at first. If you have to top up to the MAX marker, there's a leak (see above). Check that the 2-speed radiator fan runs as it should. It should start engine cooling at 104C. It should also run continuously whenever the aircon systen operates. Check the fan starts immediately when the Demist button is pressed (engine ticking over). If not, there's a fault that must be fixed. All the answers are around the forum once you know what to look for. TC
I gotta try that nifty feature some point. I think my fan works cause it ran for a bit today after I turned the engine off. More stupid questions from me if u don't mind. Where is the max marker on the coolamt bottle?, and when I put the key on position 2 I hear 2 noises, first I assume is the fuel pump, then theres a second whirring noise, is that a fan?. Also what makes post 2001 models more suceptible to FFS? I have a 2003 so could I have it?, my car failed to start twice, if I recall. Didn't even crank, sort of a freak occurences really cause I know if it's battery or starter related. Thanks for the info
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-05-2017, 23:39
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I think my fan works cause it ran for a bit today after I turned the engine off.
That's normal providing it was because the aircon system was running. Do the Demist Test to confirm it's operating correctly.
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Where is the max marker on the coolant bottle?
At the base of the fins. If the coolant level drops, or you remove a bit, you'll see the MIN/MAX markers directly below the filler neck.
Quote:
when I put the key on position 2 I hear 2 noises, first I assume is the fuel pump, then theres a second whirring noise, is that a fan?
No not the radiator fan for sure. Various systems run self tests/motors at ignition on/off like the headlamp motors, the heater system flow controllers. You're unlikely to hear the fuel pump in the tank. You will hear it if you listen at the tank filler neck and someone turn on the ignition.
Quote:
Also what makes post 2001 models more suceptible to FFS?
They are fitted with a different filter design. It's a screw together module which tends to separate (FFS).
Quote:
I have a 2003 so could I have it?
It will have the later filter module. If there isn't a FOC already in place, I'd suggest you fit one when you can. It may well improve the issues you mention, but it's a good insurance policy anyway. You don't want to get stuck out in the sticks with FFS on a rainy night! TC
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-05-2017, 08:44 Thread Starter
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That's normal providing it was because the aircon system was running. Do the Demist Test to confirm it's operating correctly.
the aircon wasnt running at all.. i noticed the fan turns on after idling for a while, that is idling during stopped traffic or when im waiting for someone..
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-05-2017, 10:30
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the aircon wasnt running at all.. i noticed the fan turns on after idling for a while, that is idling during stopped traffic or when im waiting for someone..
The engine's getting a bit warm which is normal when idling. But check coolant level. The fan should trip on at 104C, which is only likely when stood in traffic after driving normally around 90C. You should use the Trip Screen Diagnostic method to display engine temperature while driving. This is easy after a bit of practice in pressing the button. You needn't do it all the time, but you should get to know the normal running temperature. Fit a proper gauge if you want to eliminate the guesswork long term. Run the Demist Test for the slow speed fan and report back. TC
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-05-2017, 18:41
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had something similar to this, try resetting your throttle position sensor (ignition on but dont start engine, depress pedal fully 5 times, smoothly down and up, ignition off, wait a few seconds then ignition on and start engine) then go for another drive, if it has solved it then hooray! if the stuttering / misfireing happens at a different RPM or in a different gear then the TPS needs replacing

p.s. may need a few attempts to reset, mine refused to co-operate until the 3rd attempt, though it was a buggered TPS
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-05-2017, 18:54 Thread Starter
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had something similar to this, try resetting your throttle position sensor (ignition on but dont start engine, depress pedal fully 5 times, smoothly down and up, ignition off, wait a few seconds then ignition on and start engine) then go for another drive, if it has solved it then hooray! if the stuttering / misfireing happens at a different RPM or in a different gear then the TPS needs replacing

p.s. may need a few attempts to reset, mine refused to co-operate until the 3rd attempt, though it was a buggered TPS
i will try this first thing tommorow!
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-05-2017, 18:56 Thread Starter
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The engine's getting a bit warm which is normal when idling. But check coolant level. The fan should trip on at 104C, which is only likely when stood in traffic after driving normally around 90C. You should use the Trip Screen Diagnostic method to display engine temperature while driving. This is easy after a bit of practice in pressing the button. You needn't do it all the time, but you should get to know the normal running temperature. Fit a proper gauge if you want to eliminate the guesswork long term. Run the Demist Test for the slow speed fan and report back. TC
i will study the trip diagnostic procedure then report back,,. havent done the demist test, but last time i turned both on they both work.. or am i looking for a different fan?
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-05-2017, 14:15 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by T-Cut View Post
The engine's getting a bit warm which is normal when idling. But check coolant level. The fan should trip on at 104C, which is only likely when stood in traffic after driving normally around 90C. You should use the Trip Screen Diagnostic method to display engine temperature while driving. This is easy after a bit of practice in pressing the button. You needn't do it all the time, but you should get to know the normal running temperature. Fit a proper gauge if you want to eliminate the guesswork long term. Run the Demist Test for the slow speed fan and report back. TC
running that trip screen diagnostic's like playing a game lol.. after driving around a bit, stopped at burger king and it's cooled to 75. drove off and got 83, 85, then 90.. then it got to 95, wasnt long til i got home and it was jumping between 93-95.. fan works when i turn on the demister.
checked the coolant some days ago, first time since buying it mid april and it seems fine, not bone dry at all..

found some solutions online i'm gonna try like i've ordered a pair of coil packs and ht leads, and 4 new spark plugs. just waiting for the plug gap tool to arrive so i can decrease the gap to maybe .7 millimetres.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2017, 15:23 Thread Starter
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fixed it and it's now running smoothly. dont know which exactly the culprit is though, but it seerms spark related cause ive replaced the spark plugs, plug leads, and coil packs.
changed the plug gaps to 0.7 mm.

here are pictures if the old parts. they look a bit knackered. esp 1 coil pack with the different coloration, i think the plug burnt out or something... these coil sets were from factory, this will be the first time theyre replaced, i wonder if it's the same for the plugs..




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