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post #61 of 77 (permalink) Old 03-03-2009, 22:27
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Spring Protectors for Front Springs on Rover 75 / MG ZT

And probably tourers as well.

The front Springs can snap and cause tyre failure, along with rim damage. Mostly this happens when moving off, but could in theory happen anywhere.

A simple fix is available, read this thread for more info. Safety Note: Spring Protectors

Example of what happens when they snap: thought i was being shot at!

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post #62 of 77 (permalink) Old 13-03-2009, 00:07
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How do I remove the Bumper?

Read this How-Do-I thread Bumper Removal

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post #63 of 77 (permalink) Old 13-03-2009, 00:07
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How do I change a Xenon Bulb?

Read this How-Do-I thread How to change the Xenon Bulb

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post #64 of 77 (permalink) Old 10-04-2009, 19:01 Thread Starter
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What does my VIN number mean?

You'll find that your VIN number has 17 digits

For example: SARRJSLPBXM100537

Each letter identifies the make and model of the car, and the last six digits is the serial number, or build number.

Breaking this down:

SARRJSLPBXM100537 - The first three Digits, SAR stands for Rover or MG Rover and is the car maker identifier.

SARRJSLPBXM100537 - Digits four and five identify the model of the car - ie Rover 75/MG ZT

SARRJSLPBXM100537 - Digit six denotes the trim level:

C = Contemporary SE
H = Classic (TL2)
L = MG (TL7.1)
N = Contemporary
S = Comfort (TL4)
X = MG (TL5.1)
Z = Connoisseur (TL7)

SARRJSLPBXM100537 - Digit seven denotes the bodystyle:

C = 2-Door Coupe
L = 4-Door Saloon
T = 5-Door Tourer

SARRJSLPBXM100537 - Digit eight denotes the engine:

Engine:

E = 2.5 V6 (160PS) Petrol
F = 2.5 V6 (190PS) Petrol
G = 4.6 V8 Petrol
H = 2.0 Diesel
K = 2.0 V6 Petrol
L = 2.5 V6 Petrol
P = 1.8 Petrol
R = 1.8 T Petrol

SARRJSLPBXM100537 - Digit nine denotes the transmission and what side of the car the steering wheel is on:

Transmission /Steering:

B = 1.8 Petrol Manual RHD
C = 2.0 Diesel Manual RHD
D = 2.0 Petrol Manual RHD
E = 2.5 Petrol Manual RHD
F = 2.5 Petrol Manual RHD
J = 1.8 Petrol Auto RHD
K = 2.0 Diesel Auto RHD
L = 2.0 Petrol Auto RHD
M = 2.5 Petrol Auto RHD

N = 1.8 Petrol Manual LHD
P = 2.0 Diesel Manual LHD
R = 2.0 Petrol Manual LHD
S = 2.5 Petrol Manual LHD
T = 2.5 Petrol Manual LHD
W = 1.8 Petrol Auto LHD
X = 2.0 Diesel Auto LHD
Y = 2.0 Petrol Auto LHD
Z = 2.5 Petrol Auto LHD

SARRJSLPBXM100537 - Digit ten tells you the model year that the car was built in:

X = 1999 Model Year
Y = 2000 Model Year
1 = 2001 Model Year
2 = 2002 Model Year
3 = 2003 Model Year
4 = 2004 Model Year
5 = 2005 Model Year

SARRJSLPBXM100537 - Digit eleven tells you the plant that the car was built in:

D = Longbridge
M = Cowley

SARRJSLPBXM100537 - Digits twelve to seventeen tell you the build number of your car.
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post #65 of 77 (permalink) Old 24-04-2009, 07:25
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How To Replace The Shannon Tube (Air Duct)

With thanks to T-CUT for posting the original of this How To guide.

I'm not sure whether there's a specific place to put DIY guides, so perhaps it will be moved to the appropriate location if deemed suitable.

This follows on from a thread where a member found his Shannon Tube had disintegrated and wondered what to do about it. Mine also fell to bits (it's a very common issue with all the petrol models), so I decided to replace it with a more robust solution. The OEM tube is rediculously expensive and only lasts three or four years. I promised to report back, but rather than hide it under the wrong heading, I thought a formal How To would be better.

How To Replace the Shannon Tube (Petrol Engines only)

This work was done on a 2004 Connoisseur 1.8Turbo, but all the petrol models share the same system for the primary air intake. This guide doesn't apply to the diesel engine.

The Shannon Tube is a length of flexible ducting that feeds combustion air into the air filter housing. The tube's inlet is located as high as possible to minimise the possibility of flood waters entering the system. The standard location is in the nearside front wing just behind the wheel arch liner.

The original Shannon Tube is a spiral wound wire reinforced pipe constructed from cotton weave or similar stuff. Whatever it is, it rots away in a very short time. This is because it gets wet from road spray which gets behind the arch liner and the lower body panel. It's position just behind the headlamp servicing hatch must also make it vulnerable, especially if the hatch is missing. When I went into the space to change a bulb, the Shannon Tube had disintergrated, so I decided to replace it with a more durable version.

The pipe/ducting I selected is a wire reinforced 'silicone' type widely available on eBay. You need the 70mm bore version, which can be bought in various lengths. I thought 500mm should be enough and this proved to be the case. It cost around a tenner.

Raise the front of the car. I prefer ramps, but if using a trolley jack it's
absolutely essential to hold the body safe on two axle stands. Seek further advice on this if you're unsure. You follow this guide at your own risk.

Remove the engine under-panel by unscrewing the turnbuckles.

Remove the nearside corner panel between the front of the wheel arch liner and the bumper moulding. It's held by five self-tapping screws.

For more light, remove the service hatch in the wheel arch liner. It has a single turnbuckle and then requires a brisk pull upwards to free the lower locating lug. Looking up into the space ahead of the wheel arch liner, you'll see the Shannon Tube.

Tip
When working outside under the wheel arch/wing, it's often difficult to see into the dark places because of the bright sky affecting your vision. If you cover the area with an old sheet held by the bonnet, the resulting tent will improve the seeing no end. Even so, you may still require a torch. Looking into the space, here's what I saw.

I'd already removed the other half of the Shannon when I changed the bulb.

Image 1


This is the lower end where it joins the plastic ducting from the filter housing. You can see the connection in the next photo.

Image 2


The tube simply screws onto the plastic nozzle of the main air duct. You can also see the red rubber drainage valve.

After pulling away the remnants of the old tube, this is what I got.

Image 3


The fabric simply disintegrated but the soft, plastic coated wire will be come in handy in the garden.

Here's the view inside the plastic duct which curves upwards to the filter.
The rubber jiggle/poppet valve allows any water getting into the duct to drain out. There may be a small amount of debris in there, which should be removed.

Image 4


The upper end of the Shannon Tube is terminated with a plastic nozzle/venturi. Here's a photo of the new tube with the venturi fitted.
This 'silicone' version is much more rigid than the original. It will bend fine, but doesn't have the slinky flexibility of the old one.

The 70mm pipe screws onto the endpiece. It's a tight fit and goes on a lot easier if you apply a squirt of WD40 to the joint. Even so, I held the nozzle in a vice to get it fully home.

Image 5


The venturi has a mounting bracket/grommet which locates it on a lug bolted to the bodywork. The venturi is shown below.

Image 5B


At the top of the wing space you'll find the mounting bracket screwed to the bodywork. It hangs downward with the mounting lug on the wheel arch side.

Image 6


The next step is slightly fiddley. The lower end of the tube has to be screwed onto the plastic air duct. However, it must be orientated so that the venturi mounting grommet is in the correct position and will fit on the mounting lug. It's easy enough to do if you apply WD40 as before and screw the pipe well on and keep testing the position of the grommet. The new tube doesn't have much radial flexibility, so the venturi must be reasonably in line with the lug.

The next photo shows the tube fully engaged on the air duct thread.

Image 7


And a general view of the attached tube with venturi in position.

Image 8


The tube is now bent upwards so the venturi goes right into the top of the wing and the grommet can be slipped onto the mounting lug. The heavy wiring harness may interfere. Here's the venturi just about right.

Image 9


And fully located on the lug.

Image 10


This is what the finished assembly looks like.

Image 11


The position of the venturi depends on the orientation of the lug. I had to bend the bracket slightly to improve the refitting, so it stands right behind the inspection hatch as can be seen below.

Image 12


I guess I'll have to detach it again if I have to change the headlamp bulb.
Anyway, the neoprene/silicone pipe is water resistant so it should last a long time.

Refit the access panels and lower the car. Job done!
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post #66 of 77 (permalink) Old 07-11-2009, 16:26
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I'm afraid that this 'How To' has been removed at the original poster's request.

Last edited by robdrinkwater; 18-01-2010 at 11:13.
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post #67 of 77 (permalink) Old 22-11-2009, 22:51
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How to change Rover 75/ZT gearbox without removing the subframe

How to change Rover 75/MGZT clutch without removing subframe

Stu

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post #68 of 77 (permalink) Old 18-12-2009, 22:17
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How to remove the PCV on a BMW Diesel engined 75/ZT

Thanks to Dadragon for this really useful HOW TO.

Hi mates,

I changed my PCV valve awhile back for a new one and took some photos of the process to make a quick how to. The pictures below show you how i removed the PCV assembly, along with an epic fail which will hopefully prevent people from snapping the pipe spill return fuel injection line as i did!

First of all remove the 8mm bolts securing the engine cover:



Then take off the inudction air feed pipe:



Remove the injector wiring support screws with a 5mm socket, this can then be moved aside to access the PCV assembly later:



Slacken the 5mm hex bolts securing the air filter cover. There are 5 of these, 3 at the front and 2 at the back:



When you remove the oil cap to take the air filter cover off replace the oil cap as to prevent anything falling in!



You should now be able to see the PCV valve assembly:



Slacken the 4mm hex bolts that secure the assemly in, there will be 4 of them:



Lastly, carefully push the spring clip in the prise out to release the 3 circled leak pipes. Slowly twist and pull the leak pipe to prise it out. You can take all 4 off but the 3 outlined will suffice.



Lift out the assembly! You can either:

Replace the blue filter unit - BMW part number B11.12.7.793.164
Replace the whole assembly - BMW part number B11.12.7.799.224

The whole assembly is an updated version and doesnt contain the blue filter unit but rather a filterless design so may be worth as an upgrade long term.

Epic Fail:

When you get to the stage of removing the pipe spill return line, please remember to remove the springs secureing the leak pipe and twist off SLOWLY. If you do what i did, this will happen:




And is BMW part number 13537787485 to replace

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post #69 of 77 (permalink) Old 18-12-2009, 22:24
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How To fit an EGR bypass on the BMW Diesel engined 75/ZT

With thanks to Rolled1 for preparing this excellent How To.

This is the EGR Bypass valve recommended on RoverRon's tuning-diesels site and sold on ebay by Dave Lyons aka EvoTomTurbo,nice piece of engineering-




and the original valve,the mechanism is clearly quite an obstruction to airflow



Firstly engine cover off to reveal the EGR valve-



Intercooler hose removed-


10mm socket to remove the 4 bolts holding the valve on the inlet manifold side



loosen the jubilee clip on the metal hose going to exhaust and then use a screwdriver to prise it off,the electrical connectors visible are for the Synergy box



fitting is just a reverse of removal-





the large spigot connected to the metal braided exhaust hose is blanked off,as is the smaller connection for the 8mm vacuum hose,the other connection with the blue cover is for connecting a turbo boost gauge



all finished with only engine cover to re-fit,modified air intake also visible







And finished,with engine cover re-fitted, total time 30mins and a worthwhile mod with better response low down and turbo feels more linear as well



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post #70 of 77 (permalink) Old 30-12-2009, 00:22
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How To Clean The Idle Control Solenoid on a V6 engine.

Thanks to 6raeme who posted this How To originally.

Well I just wanted to give a little something back to everyone thatís helped me so far in my ZT journey of pain and pleasure so I thought that Iíd knock up this little how toÖ

Iíd been suffering from a couple of different problems. The first was that the car used to rev to about 2500 rpm when it was started from cold, just for a couple of seconds, then it would drop down to normal. Then over time it started holding its revs a for a second or two when you let off the throttle, so sometimes when changing gear it sounded more like an automatic as you let out the clutch and the revs were still quite high. Finally things got worse still when it started Ďhuntingí and the revs were fluctuating on tickover. It would drop its revs to 400 rpm and then rev back up to 1000 and then back to 400 and so on and so on.

My research and some advice from some top members on this forum pointed towards a faulty idle solenoid. The guys at xPart referred to it as the fast idle solenoid. I found a thread on the XPower forums on how to clean the idle solenoid but thought that Iíd see if I couldnít do a better job and throw a few pictures in to the mix.

Cleaning this has rectified all of the problems that I was having with my 190.

Initially I took it all apart and cleaned it as per the instructions that I found on XPower but the gasket on my car was badly perished so I then ordered a gasket kit from xPart for about a fiver and have taken it apart again to fit this. For the small expense, Iíd recommend getting the kit and fitting the new parts when you do the clean. I had to make a temporary gasket out of a cigarette packet to put mine back together after the initial clean as the gasket was leaking air It worked like a charm but as you can see Iíve gone back and done the job properly.

A word of warningÖ Do this when the engine is cold as if you move the plunger on the solenoid, when you re-plug it in again it will reset itself to its cold starting position and you may find that the car wonít start or wonít tickover until itís cooled down. Iíve done it with the engine cold and had no problems. Started first time and ran like a dream ever since! Others have said that their car wouldnít start afterwards (because the engine was hot when they did this) but after 30 mins or so their cars started and ran as they should!

RightÖ

The idle solenoid is attached to a housing on top of the throttle body. Itís held on with two allen bolts and thereís an electrical connector (arrowed) and an engine gas return pipe (arrowed) going into it, as well as the pipe off the air box (arrowed). Itís nice and easy to get to on the 190 in between the engine cover, air box and battery box. The first thing you want to do is make some room by taking off the air box cover. There are two Philips screws on the top of the air box and also a hose clip (arrowed) on the large pipe that goes from the airbox to the throttle body. The cover then wiggles off and the pipes to the throttle body will come with it. The smaller pipe that goes to the idle solenoid housing isnít held on with anything and just pulls off.





Youíll then have some space to see and youíll notice the throttle body and air box pipe are full of oil (Iíll cover this in another how to as soon as I get some more parts that Iím waiting for), itís worth giving them a wipe clean to prevent it getting sucked back into the engine (donít worry, the engine will burn it as itís been designed like this, but itíd be better if it wasnít there).






Once youíve got that off you need to unplug the electrical connector and the gas pipe (it uses one of those connections where you push the outer ring on the housing down and the pipe pulls up). Undo the two allen bolts and lift the housing off. As you can see below, my gasket is looking worse for wear with a torn corner.




Youíll now have the housing off as below and will need to remove the solenoid from the housing using a torque bit. Be careful not to move the plunger if you can help it and be careful not to lose the o ring that sits between the solenoid and the housing if you didnít buy the kit with a new one!





Iíve arrowed the parts that need cleaned. They look ok now on mine as Iíve already cleaned them all but they were badly coked up the first time I took it apart. Some methís will probably do the job, but I used some pipe cleaner that I had handy. You should also clean the throttle body where the gasket sits so that you get a good seal when you put it all back together again.



The little yellow bit that Iíve fondly named the doozle wotsit sits inside the throttle body, under the gasket and it should be white like the new one. The gasket kit came with new bolts, the gasket, a new o ring for the solenoid and also a new doozle wotsit. You can see where that fits under the gasket in the pics below.








After cleaning and drying off the relevant parts. Refit the solenoid to the housing with the new o ring and new torque bolts. Fit the doozle, the new gasket, re seat the housing and tighten the allen bolts to the desired degree of tightness. Plug in the electrical connector, engine gas pipe and re-fit the air box.

There you goÖ

Turn the key and listen to her purr!! :Lol:


If i've missed anything then i apologise but i'm pretty sure that it's all there!


The above is a quick account of what I did and I had no problems and didnít break anything. Just be warned that you do this at your own risk. This is simply an account of what I did so I canít be held responsible for any problems that other may experience or cause as a result of the above.

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post #71 of 77 (permalink) Old 28-07-2010, 17:27
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How To Fit New Intercooler 'O' Rings - CDT/CDTi.

With thanks to WULLIE480 for this updated guide to fitting the intercooler O rings.



How to fit Intercooler O Rings with bumper ON.

1. START BY REMOVING 3 X BOLTS MARKED WITH ARROWS & REMOVE ENGINE COVER.



2. DISCONNECT JUBILEE CLIP HOLDING INTERCOOLER HOSE ONTO EGR VALVE. (PLEASE NOTE I HAVE REMOVED AIR INTAKE TO ASSIST WITH PHOTOS)



3. HOSE DISCONNECTED - FOLLOW HOSE TILL YOU GET TO THE END.



4. AT END OF INTERCOOLER HOSE JUST BELOW PASSENGERS SIDE HEADLAMP YOU WILL FIND ANOTHER JUBILEE REMOVE THIS AND REMOVE HOSE.
(IF IT IS DIFFICULT TO ACCESS THE JUBILEE CLIP WITH A SCREWDRIVER OR 7MM SPANNER/SOCKET GO TO STEP 6 AND SEPARATE HOSE AND PIPE WHEN REMOVED FOR EASIER REFITTING)




5. ELBOW PIPE AT TOP OF INTERCOOLER WITH HOSE REMOVED.



6. REMOVE BOLT MARKED WITH ARROW THIS ALLOWS ELBOWED PIPE TO BE REMOVED (PULL THE ELBOWED PIPE UPWRDS TO REMOVE).
(IF YOU WERE UNABLE TO REMOVE JUBILEE CLIP IN STEP 4 REMOVE NOW FOR EASIER REFITTING).




7. THE TOP TWO O RINGS ARE THE ORIGINALS (NOTE THE SWELLING). THE BOTTOM TWO ARE THE UPRATED VITON



8. ELBOWED PIPE WITH 2 X NEW O RINGS FITTED.






9. PLEASE NOTE REBUILD IS REVERSE OF REMOVAL.

BEFORE FITTING ELBOW BACK INTO INTERCOOLER LUBE O-RINGS WITH A LITTLE SILICONE GREASE IF AVAILABLE. IF NOT WD40 WILL DO THE SAME JOB.

Last edited by robdrinkwater; 06-02-2012 at 21:23.
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post #72 of 77 (permalink) Old 04-12-2010, 11:12
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Click here to find out how to repair/replace holes in your alcantara seats.
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post #73 of 77 (permalink) Old 07-02-2011, 08:14
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Manual for the Standard HiLine Navigation unit.

(thanks to Reeb for the PDF).
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Hi-Line.pdf (863.6 KB, 279 views)

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post #74 of 77 (permalink) Old 12-02-2013, 23:30
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How To Clear Sunroof Drain Tubes on Rover 75 / MG ZT

With great thanks to SKICON for originally posting this excellent how to on clearing & modifying the sunroof drain tubes.

Last year i had a flooded car in both the front and rear footwells below you will see what caused it and how to solve it hope this helps a few members Skicon



Well after days and days of rain we finaly got some dry sunny weather today 5/7/12 so i set about with vigour tackling the leak on my sunroof drainage tubes which if left unchecked will sooner or later leave you with water in your footwells front and rear, because i got caught out with all this rain and did not check mine in time i have ended up with a sodden carpet which i now have to remove to dry out i am hoping this post will save some of you that trouble and you can catch it before its to late, those of you whom have not got a leak yet do this fix asap so you will not have to go to all the trouble of taking your seats and console out along with radio and A/C controls etc.
Below is the short version presuming you have not yet got any leak or its not to bad and you dont have to remove all of the above mentioned.
First you will need to remove the glove box this is held in by seven torx screws four along the top of the box and three hidden under the felt cover in the glove box one each end and one centre, Fig 1-4

Peel felt back to expose the three torx screws one in the centre also.
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Remove these first all three.
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Now remove the four top ones as here below.
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and here once removed the glove box will slide forward easy.
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Slide the Glove box forward careful because of the box light which needs to be unpluged Fig 5-7
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The light showing its plug.
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Unplug the wiring to the light as here
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You can now remove the glove box and put it in a safe place this will now expose the fuse box and all the wiring etc behind the box. Fig 8
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Above and to the left you will see the sunroof drainage tube this is just pushed in by about 15mm then it hits a stop in the outlet rubber tube going through to the wheel arch poor idea and not a tight fit so some sort of PTF tape was used to try and hold it Fig 9
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To make more room and easier access to this tube unbolt the fuse box 10mm socket and set it to one side out of the way as here below Fig 10-12
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Rest the fuse holder on the glove box opening.
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Now you can get a better look at the sunroof tube and the silly tape Rover used Fig 13-14
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Here i have removed the tube to show the rubber tube outlet to the inner wheel arch through the bulk head note that dirty water and it smells. Fig 15-16
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Quick view of how thick the foam on the back of the carpet is in this area and its soaking wet. Fig 17
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Here is a close up of the dirty muck cloging the outlet tube this needs to be cleaned out before the fix Fig 18
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here i am rodding the outlet tube with a 10mm pipe spring any larger and you risk pushing the tube through the bulk head and we dont want this Fig 19-20
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The pipe spring can be passed through the front of the glove box compartment as here and lines up nicely with the outlet tube.
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Right had had two idear's for the fix one to use a clear tube to extend the exsiting sunroof black tubing as here below i have brought the tubing to the opening of the glove box to make it easy for you to see how the clear tubing would fit inside the black tubing Fig 21
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This idea looked ok but gave me a little worry as the exsiting sunroof tube was on the outside of the clear tube even though a every tight fit it can still give rise to some leakage in my opinion i my be wrong but was not going to take tha chance as water will always find the easy way out so i went to next idea whic involves the hose connectors as here below in Fig 22
This time the sunroof tube is inside the hose connector and is also a very neat and tight fit pushed into the connector by 50mm making it a secure fitting which cannot slip out or be forced out by water back flowing.
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I can now offer this up to the outlet rubber tube which is pushed inside and again a tight fit i needed to smear it with vaseline to push fit the ridged pipe which is 30mm long you can hear the slight pop when pushed fully home to the lip inside the outlet tube Fig 23
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A close up of the secure fitting which in my opinion will stop and solve the leaks from now on and as the black sunroof tube is pushed inside the hose connector by 50mm the connector with its ridged fitting is pushed into the outlet tube by 30mm over all length is an 80mm not the 15mm push in Rover left with some sort of silly PTF tape to hold it in Fig 24
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The hose connector bought from Halfords Fig 26
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As stated at the start this is the quick way if you do not have a bad leak already or not one at all if your carpets are soaking wet like mine its seats out, console out, carpet out and dried clearall water in the floor area of the car make sure all wiring is ok and dry then you have to refit it all so try not to get caught out as i did.


Saturday 7th July finaly a bit of sun came out giving me chance to get my seats and console out of the Tourer to tackle the water ingress under the carpet which is/was soaking, i mangaed this after fitting a handbrake compensator for a fellow member and a few other little mods plenum spyhole bonnet cable mod and couple of hose cable tied back from rubbing which after finishing we had a downpour for about 15mins.
Once the rain had stopped again i got the seats out console out then proceeded to remove the carpet jeez what a weight it was with the added water any member whom can feel a little damp on the surface of their carpets you can bet your hide that there is a least an 1" of water under the carpet as the foam as become so sodden with water it can no longer soak up anymore and is showing you its now flooded underneath photo's below.
Fig 1 carpet looks to be ok just wet to the touch yer really :roll:

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1

peel the carpet back and you find this figs 2-4

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2


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3


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4

So do not be tricked into thinking it's only a bit damp thats becuse as stated above the carpet is soaking to its limits, i manage to get the carpet out with a great struggle as it weighs loads and also pours out water as you bend and twist it out of the passenger door the amount of water you see in the floor space in the photo's below is only half as there is as much again still soaked in to the carpet foam.Figs 5-6

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Front footwell where it all starts and then flows backwards into the space under the seat and finaly into the rear footwell because of the gaps under the floorpan strengthening bars which the seats bolt to fig 7

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This photo shows the dry floor pan now all the water as been sucked out with a wet & dry hoover Fig 8

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Under floor heating duct ready to be connected after being removed to clean up the water Fig 9

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Fitted back on to the heater Fig 10-12

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Here are the carpets removed and drying out afetr being jumped on while lying on the decking so most of the soaked in water could be squeezed out between the gaps in the b decking lucky for us we have this otherwise its squeezing by hand, mangaed to leave them in the last bit of sun for the day for about 30mins before it started to rain again and had to place them under cover i will do the same process over the next few days intil dry weather permiting of cause.Fig 13-14

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You maybe think how is it the carpet is in two pieces ( thats because when i originaly made my car a guinea pig for the first fitting of the handbrake mod i cut my carpet at the rear to get to the plate covering the compensator ) so just cut the two little pieces that joing the carpet over the exhaust tunnel covered up by the console and will be easier to fit back cuts unseen.Fig 14

WARNING PLEASE DO NOT DO THIS AS THE CARPET CAN BE REMOVED JUST AS EASY IN ONE PIECE.

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Seats safe in the gazibo with the carpets these can now have a good clean with vanish re-wash bar bringing them up like new Fig 15

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Will add the update of drying out tomorrow mean while enjoy the couple of videos of sucking up the deluge of water from the sunroof drainage hose whic is so badly fitted but not anymore.
http://youtu.be/qAZW71691Tk
http://youtu.be/OFEMDlejjiU
http://youtu.be/ktfz_e4eCV8

Sunday the 8th July 2012 we finaly got a bit of sun that lasted more than 15mins and i was able to tackle the drivers side sunroof drainage tube to get to this you need to remove a few items to gain access so the hose connector can be added, photo's below.
First remover the panel under the steering wheel two posidrive screws and then it unclips Fig 1

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Next remove the lower panel this time two screws and a couple of plastic flat head clips which also unscrew not pulled off Fig 2-3

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These are only hand tight so easy to unscrew

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You now need to unscrew the light switch three posi as shown in these Fig 4-6

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This can then just dangle loose no need to unplug it this mainly for seeing the drain tube through and also rodding it before fitting the hose connector shown in later pics

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You now need to remove the little panel which holds the OBD wiring this also make for easy access to the drain tube three posidrive screws Fig 7-8

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This little panel will drop down allowing you to unplug the wire lom from it two clips eiethr side Fig 9- 10

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With this removed you can now see all the wiring behind this is the sunroof drain tube top right corner Fig 11-12

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This photo show the drain tube pulled out you can just make out all the muck insdie the outlet tube to the inner drivers side wing and the PTF tape used to hold it in what a joke that is, Fig 13

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I now have to rod the muck out i use a 10mm plumbers pipe spring which is perfect for the as you can see in these pics this is the reason for removing the light switch earlier as it line up with the outlet tube Fig 14-15

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Twist and push this slowly untill it goes right through past the ducks bill flap behind the bulk head and into the wheel arch later on i will show how its best to cut of this ducks bill.

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After cleaning out the muck from the outlet tube i cleaned out the sunroof tube using a net curtain wire with a domed screw in the end i got my wife to feed it through to me once through i pulled my way then she pulled back making sure it was clear of any debris. Fig 16-17

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here you can see how it as come through to me also note the PTF tape used to hold in the tube originaly only by 15mm utter rubbish

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This is the hose connector i use to join the sunroof drain pipe to the outlet tube hopefully you can make it out against the white rubber glove Fig 18

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Remove the silly PTF tape and push the sunroof drain tube into the connector by 50mm or more if you like but 50mm is enough Fig 19

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once pushed in offer this up to the outlet tube and insert it up to the stop on the connector you will need to smear it with vaseline so it helps fit with otu effort and stop you from pushing the outlet tube through the bulk head job done. Fig 20

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Now replace all the items in reverse of moving i will tackle the rear one in a later post cheers Skicon. :thumbsup:




Below is for tourer only saloon is a lot easier to get to just peel back the side wall carpets

Monday 9/7/2012 luckily we had another dry day with some sunny periods so i was able to take care of the two rear sunroof drainage tubes, mind this is no five minute job as most the rear luggage area as to be removed along with the Cd chnager should you have one fitted this is on a Tourer a saloon is a little easier but again i can not reiterate enough if you have a sunroof and you check you carpets by lifting the edge and it is dry no damp patches or no damp to touch carpets do not wait to do this mod or you too could end up having to take out your interior and more.
below you will see how you have to remove the side panels from the tourer to get to the sunroof drain tubes over each rear wheel arch very time consuming here we go.
Start by removing the plastic cover on the tailgate lock pull up carefully it is held in by plastic clips the same as the door cards.Fig 1
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Next remove the tourer cover and undo the two torx screws which retain the cover and lock it into place do this both sides Fig 2
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Now remove the posidrive screw from the net hook either side of each rear side window panel and remove Fig 3-4
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next remove the cubbyhole panel each side if you have them Fig 5
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Now turn your attention to the floor hooks using a small screwdriver flip up the little plastic panel covering the two torx bolts it just up and out easy Fig 6-7
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now exposed you can undo and remove these again both side Fig 7-8
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You will also have to remove the rear deeper ones on each side of the panels Fig 9
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Now lift the luggage floor panel to remove the two posidrive screw hold the side panel to the floor both sides Fig 10
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now most of the screws and bolts have been removed pull the taligate rubber from the the panels that need to be removed for the next step Fig 11
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Now you can remove the top side panel both sides Fig 12
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Then you can remove the lower longer side panel Fig 13
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There are a few more bolt fixing to remove before we can completely remove the solid moulded panel cover the sunroof drain tube etc. 10mm four in all Fig 14
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Two at the top of the panel leaving Fig 15
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The last one of the four 10mm bolts you need to remove the rear seat side squab it just pulls up to expose the bolt do not miss this or you will break the side panel Fig 16-17
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This is it the black one
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Now go back and remove the cover lock holder from which you earlier removed two torx bolts this pulls upwards Fig 18
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With this removed you get your first glimpse of the sunroof drain tube Fig 19
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We are not far from removing the solid moulded side panel now but first split the diesel or petrol puller wire apart or the panel will not release also you you could break this wire Fig 20-21
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You can now tease the side panel down and remove it to one side safely Fig 22
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Now if you have a CD changer you will need to undo and set this out of the way by removing four 8mm bolts Fig 23
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With the Cd changer removed to one side it exposes the sunroof drainage tube finaly you can just make out that white PTF tape what is all that about ? Fig 24
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This is the passengers side which i had removed ealier Fig 25
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Now you can remove the tube ready for it to be joined with the hose connector after the outlet tube as been rodded Fig 26
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Passenger side with connector in view before fitting Fig 27
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Both outlet tubes should be rodded to make sure they are clear from muck etc i use a 8mm plumbers pipe bending spring as this is ideal Fig 28-29
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Once you are happy the outlet tube is clear you will need to lubricate the end of the sunroof drain tube also inside the outlet tube with some vaseline Fig 30
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Insert the sunroof tube into the hose connector by 50mm minimum then the connector into the outlet tube 30mm to the connectors stop point both sides Fig 31-32
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Push both connectors fully home and the mod is finished why could Rover not have done this Fig 33-34
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All that is left to do now is refit all panels etc in reverse of removing job is over no more leaks Fig 35
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You may want to invest in one of these little sets from wilko's invaluable to me on this job Fig 36
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So please be advised check you carpets by pulling back and lifting at each door front and rear also feel if carpet is damp if you have a sunroof and if dry do this mod without fail or you risk all the work of removing the interior as i had to do you want your car to go from looking lie this Fig 37-38
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To this in a matter of six to seven months as the foam on these carpets soak up so much water you do not know untill they are soaked and can not take anymore thats when you relise to late and you have a pool of water in the the footwells Fig 39-40
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YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED PLEASE TAKE HEED. Skicon :thumbsup:


Another source of leaking into the footwells of our cars are the front scuttle clips and scuttle panel check out below to fix

At last we have had a couple of days with the sun out for more tha a couple of hours, yesterday i decide i would make sure the car was not leaking in from the windscreen scuttle around its clips so i took it off and sealed round each one with some 151 gutter sealant i also ran it anlong the ower part of the windscreen.
To remove the scuttle panel from the front windscreen first you need to remover the window wipers two bolts a grip tight a wiggle and a shake and they are off.
Window wipers removed and one scuttle clip Fig 1
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Next prise up each scuttle clip with a tool simular to this or use a thin balded screw driver keep your spare thumb or finger over the clip so it does not fly of into the air never to be found or stick some masking tape over the edge of the clip. Fig 2-3
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Next remove the rubber seal along the scuttle Fig 4
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The next step is to remove the scrivets each side after removing the upper scuttle trays these just screw out Fig 5
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You are now ready to remove the scuttle panel first feed it up and out from the passnger side no need to be a bull in a china shop take it easy just a little bending and its free that end. Fig 6
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Now do the same the drivers side this time pay attention to lifting the scuttle panle free and over the window wiper bolt again take care. Fig 7
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Once this as been acchived the panel is free to remove and be put safe Fig 8-9
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With the scuttle panel removed we can see the white plastic retaining grommets which the scuttle panel clips fit into to hold the panel in situ note the perished gaskets under them very suspect in my opinion so all the more reason to seal them with the 151 sealant. Fig 10-12
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Note how dirty it is under the scuttle panel and holds water
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Also take note of the gasket up close
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I am now going to seal around the white retainign grommets and inside them so when i replace the scuttle panel and its clips it will seal around that area and seal the clip in place as i hope i do nto need to remove it again if so it will just be that little bit harder no great shakes.Fig 13
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Seal round each and every one i also sealed along the lower part of the windscreen to make sure Fig 14-15
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With the scuttle panel now back in place i put a little more in the crevis of the scuttle clip so it just seps out to be wiped of clean this should be now sealed this may not need doing but i think i am being cautious just incase as i have had a member tell me they have a wet carpet but do not have a sunroof.Fig 16
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With this done my next step is to refit the carpet now its dry and the interior seats etc this i will do tomorrow 15th July 2012 Skicon.


Sunday the 15th July and one of the sunny days we have had this month and i maged to refit the interior back into Suzie after the sunroof saga i decided to drill a few holes and treat them before putting the carpet back in i know some will feel this is a little to much and should not be done, (so i am not encouraging you to do this as this was personal to me only) but i am in the thinking if it does leak again or it is leaking from somewhere i have not relised i would prefer not to have 2" of water under the carpet waiting to do more damage i will also be treating it from under the car once we get the next dry day.
I drilled three small 4mm holes along the floor panel where the water holds the most treated with rust inhabitor then WD40 finaly copper grease spray. Fig 1
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Two more where the bings are under the seat which also is one of the lower points of collection Fig 2
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Treated and greased Fig 3
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Also in the rear footwell which fills up from the front due to the design of the floor pan Fig 4
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Carpet back in place nice and dry after 10 days Fig 5
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Console refitted and heating checked along with radio etc for working Fig 6
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Seats bolted back in and wiring pluged in checked for working shes looking nice again after having a very good clean as well Fig 7-8
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Took her for a drive and she smells lovely again no musty smell am hoping it is all solved now Monday 16th its poured down again all day i ahve not been out to check the car yet but will do some time today the 17th i will even lift the carpet at the front foot wells to see if nay sign but once i have fixed the pipe connectors it rained more or less every day while the carpet was out drying and no signs of water then so fingers crossed i note Dominic as had his carpet propped up and is in the process of fitting the connectors in the mean time he put the end of the sunroof tube in a plastic bottle and over a 5 hour period of rain some of it drizzle he collected two liters of water just goes to show how much water comes down the sunroof tubes good luck to those who have yet to do this mod i hope you catch it before its got to the stage that mine did Skicon.


PS i hope this will help and solve some of the members leaks which can occur in our cars try to catch them before this years down pours, i will also had some of my other how to's over the coming weeks Skicon.
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Headlining and liners removal & re-trimming the headliners

Here you have information how to remove liners and headlining and how to re-trim it:

Headlining and liners removal
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post #77 of 77 (permalink) Old 24-10-2016, 19:55
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How to fit a Mk1 MG ZT front bumper to a Mk1 Rover 75

Here are notes how to fit a Mk1 MG ZT front bumper to a Mk1 Rover 75

How to fit a Mk1 MG ZT front bumper to a Mk1 Rover 75
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