My new project arrives .. A Mk11 MG ZXT-T 1.8t. - Page 2 - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #21 of 203 (permalink) Old 05-01-2016, 18:44 Thread Starter
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Thumbs up A little more progress today when it stopped raining.

Switched on the Instruments for the first time in two months. Noticed one missing vertical line in the upper display. :~



Compatibility checks.

Although both the SIX and K engines use the same Camshaft Sensor Location in the Camshaft Cover, the actual sensors are very different. No way would either connect to the other engine's loom. So removed the sensor from the K and fitted it to the SIX engine.

Using a spare ZT Turbocharger assembly, another check job was to offer up both the Turbocharger Oil Supply pipe on the SIX to the Garret T25 ( The SIX uses a Mitsubishi Unit ) and the T25's Drain Pipe to the drain location on the SIX. Both perfect.

Cannot get a move on much with fitting the engine even if it stops raining. Have ordered a new clutch driven plate and when that arrives, that engine assembly and installation work can proceed.

One small request to the Weather Gods... What have you done with the Sun and blue skies? ....please stop raining.

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #22 of 203 (permalink) Old 06-01-2016, 09:06
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Switched on the Instruments for the first time in two months. Noticed one missing vertical line in the upper display. :~
I can't say for sure because I haven't had may car long enough but I had 4 lines appear on mine when it started to get cold.If I'm out for a long time with the heater on they go.
Come April time I suspect they will go altogether.

I did propose on another site that what was needed is a tiny electric blanket for the ribbon cable that causes this.
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post #23 of 203 (permalink) Old 06-01-2016, 11:35 Thread Starter
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Cool

Thanks Shawn,

That has happened to the small visual display in my Rover 620ti. Sometimes it goes near blank when other times much of the display is restored. Had the car ten years and long suspected it is ambient temperature related. Who knows?

Meantime, this arrived a few minutes ago :~



...... and ... blue skies and lots of low winter sunshine. Just maybe things are getting better.

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #24 of 203 (permalink) Old 06-01-2016, 12:54
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Following this with much interest! Good work John
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post #25 of 203 (permalink) Old 08-01-2016, 20:45 Thread Starter
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Thumbs up A little preparation work on original engine.

As I plan to rebuild the original 95k engine using cylinder liner shims if necessary, did a few minor jobs to it today. Both the small 7mm bolts holding the bracket which also serves as a cover for the gearbox end of the Inlet Camshaft ... were rounded... .... No way would any of my good quality sockets budge them. Another example of bolts being over tightened when simply not necessary. Frustrated after a few attempts even with my Cordless 24v Impact Drive and best quality hex-socket, still no joy. I wonder if my 1960s Britool Nut and Bolt extractor will work on such a small bolt head. It did after carefully positioning it on the small bolt head and just when I was able to give up, the first bolt started to move. Patiently positioning the tool on the other bolt was difficult but, it did statr and once started I could undo it with my fingers.

This Britool has come to the rescue several times with difficult, seized or over-tightened nuts and bolts before.

The attached images show the process.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2016-01-08 A Friday 8th January 2016 003.jpg (94.4 KB, 47 views)
File Type: jpg 2016-01-08 A Friday 8th January 2016 001.jpg (106.8 KB, 40 views)
File Type: jpg 2016-01-08 A Friday 8th January 2016 002.jpg (132.1 KB, 25 views)

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #26 of 203 (permalink) Old 10-01-2016, 21:24
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Following with interest, as always!
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post #27 of 203 (permalink) Old 14-01-2016, 18:45 Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Progress updates #1

Nearly dry yesterday and no immediate signs of rain so got the tools out this afternoon, including the Nilfisk pressure washer and set that up. All takes time dodging the rain showers... very heavy at times.

Soon had both offside wheels removed once I deployed the larger 3/4" Breaker Bar and hex socket with 3/4-1/2 reducer for the 17mm wheel bolts. My 1/2" Bar also in the picture could not cope. Why are these tightened up silly tight so often now? No need.:~



Using the pressure washer lots of loose paint came off straightaway. All four Grid-spokes are in dire need of a refurb. That's the plan.





Using a stout posidrive screwdriver as a Pilot when fitting the wheels.



I also gave the empty engine compartment a quick onceover :~



With wheels removed, able to give the hubs, suspension and wheel arches a good clear out of the layers of road crud built up over the years using the Nilfisk.



Finally, I noticed the Clutch Release Bearing and it's Spring were lose when cleaning the engine area. Placed them in a spot where I will see them next time I lifted the bonnet.



Packed up rapidly then as few heavy spots of rain with nasty black clouds rapidly approaching. The other two wheels will have to wait until tomorrow. Meantime fitted some Hairpins temporarily. Will lower the car tomorrow. Raining heavily then.:~


Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #28 of 203 (permalink) Old 14-01-2016, 18:56 Thread Starter
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Progress updates # 2

Pleased that the Wheel Bolts on the nearside were not silly tight. Easier job but, took longer to remove the tatty wheels and fit Hairpin replacements ( see attachment images ) as the engineless dead car is close to the fence restricting access. Here's the two nearside GRID-spokes. That's after cleaning with the Nilfisk pressure wash. :~



I'll get the tyres removed professionally and take the bare alloys less weights and valves up to Brum and leave for refurbishment and Powder Coating. Another member not far away has some wheels to take up too so we will share the trip.

I also power washed both nearside wheel arches along withn the hubs, calipers, brake discs and suspension components. The rear springs came up like new and I suspect they are fairly recent replacements.

I noticed the Clutch Pedal is on the floor so I guess that means the Clutch Hydraulics will need to be bled once it's all assembled. This is the inside of the Bell Housing after a power wash.:~



The clutch release bearing and its return spring were dislodged during engine removal. :~



Using my fingers to check for roughness indicating a worn bearing I could not detect any. Think it best to get one anyway.

Never had to deal with this type of "in bell housing" release mechanism before. Any pointers here for those with experience of these are most welcome.

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #29 of 203 (permalink) Old 14-01-2016, 21:40
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John I would seriously consider putting a new slave cylinder in while its all apart. So much work if it fails soon after the rebuild. You can even get a metal slave these days.

Regards John
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post #30 of 203 (permalink) Old 14-01-2016, 22:39 Thread Starter
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John I would seriously consider putting a new slave cylinder in while its all apart. So much work if it fails soon after the rebuild. You can even get a metal slave these days.

Regards John
Thanks for that John. I have been thinking along those lines. A stitch in time scenario ..

No hurry with this project. Will take time to consider all the options.

My son is keen to get it up and running asap... the impatience of youth ... who have much time on their side ....

The previous owner who was seriously considering scrapping this car, partly dismantled the Fuel Filter assembly to drain the tank. That is another little job I shall do soon, along with fitting the Orange Clip if needs it.

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #31 of 203 (permalink) Old 15-01-2016, 09:39
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Silly tightness on the wheel studs is due to over zealous tyre fitters with air guns........ what ever happened to torque wrenches ....phew....
Another one well worth while watching ....keep up the good work John.
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post #32 of 203 (permalink) Old 18-01-2016, 22:36 Thread Starter
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Tyres removed from tatty GRIDspoke Alloy Wheels today.

Thanks minesarover...

Took all four tatty Gridspokes to a local National fast-fit outfit and had the four tyres removed. I can now plan to take them for refurbishment in the next week or so.

When I explained what I wanted, I was told they have a slot at 4pm and if I come back then, they will remove the tyres for one pound each. Cannot complain at that. The manager delegated the job to an obvious young apprentice who looked about fourteen. He did the job well.

Apart from that I took my wife's salt covered MG ZS 120 to a nearby auto-car wash. For 3.99p the whole car was washed, several passes with soap then rinse, including under the car, then another pass with foam then polish followed by two passes with the blower. Money well spent. Cannot remember seeing the car looking so well ... almost like new!

The salt was from the 250 mile round trip to Surrey on Friday where most of the main roads and Motorways were covered in salt in anticipation of forecast very cold weather.

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #33 of 203 (permalink) Old 21-01-2016, 07:36
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Hi John, a couple of FYI's. I had to have one of the tyres replaced not long before you took the car - was that the one that was silly tight? Over-tightening is one of my bug bears too, and I'd not too long before that slackened and re-torqued them. Something odd seems to be going on, because I had to have the locking wheel nuts removed by a local garage, and had to take the car back to them afterwards to slacken off all the bolts. They said (and I believe them because I've seen them do it before) that they hand torqued them to the right torque. They seem to have some sort of mystical self-tightening ability!

Re the rear springs, I don't know about them looking new, but I had the car for just over 4 years and about 48,000 miles and I certainly didn't replace them!
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post #34 of 203 (permalink) Old 21-01-2016, 07:52
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When you get two dissimilar metals and water you get electrolysis. The studs will literally be welded in.
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post #35 of 203 (permalink) Old 21-01-2016, 10:48 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the update Jeff. Most of the wheel bolts had a good covering of copper grease on their threads and tapers. I'm in favour of doing that. Liberal use could affect torque ratings. Apart from that one wheel's very tight bolts, the three others felt about right undoing them using my hand tools including the heavyweight 3/4" Breaker bar..

I was able to successfully remove all four McGuard style Locking Wheel Bolts but, due to tightness and some abuse of the Locking Key, a five minute job took an hour of careful work. They were tight. These were discarded and a different set fitted along with the refurbished Hairpin style alloy wheels.

Progress is slow in these cold weather conditions. Some sunshine as I write this is encouraging. The hard frost late last night was gone by daylight from the slighter milder breeze which sprung up overnight. Might get a an hour on the car today after other chores.

Chores included stripping my relatively little used Rockworth 240v electric drill which expired in a shower of sparks out of the cooling slots last time I used it. One of the carbon brushes has completely worn away. Web search turned up a carbon brush specialist on ebay who will fit new carbon inserts to the old housings as brushes for this model are no longer available. Be good to revive that drill as it has a hammer action facility which is useful.

Next job on the ZT-T is to reassemble the in-tank fuel filter after checking if an Orange Clip is fitted. I have a clip on standby if it does not. Jeff removed it to access and remove fuel in the tank as he was thinking of disposing of the car. Most folks including myself would do the same.

The first "project" ZT I bought had a near full tank of fuel. Along with suspect head gasket, the engine was a non-starter. Needed open and refit the in tank fuel filter after slot the Orange Clip in place. Immediate start which soon confirmed damage head gasket. Not an easy job with fuel brimming the tank. Must have used five pairs of gloves for that job..

I need to make up a couple of small blanking plates from some stout alloy sheet I have. There are a couple of places on the MG6 engine where features will not be used and need to be blanked off. Speaking to one of my son's friends who works for MG up at Longbridge, he told me the Chinese had destroyed all the original low pressure engine casting stuff and manufactured new ones designed for high pressure casting. Looking at some areas of the MG6 engine, you can clearly see many differences owing to new castings being tooled up.

I shall shop around for a new clutch release bearing assembly as several folks advised doing this with the engine and gearbox seperated. Good advice on a stitch in time basis.

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #36 of 203 (permalink) Old 21-01-2016, 11:38
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Chores included stripping my relatively little used Rockworth 240v electric drill which expired in a shower of sparks out of the cooling slots last time I used it. One of the carbon brushes has completely worn away. Web search turned up a carbon brush specialist on ebay who will fit new carbon inserts to the old housings as brushes for this model are no longer available. Be good to revive that drill as it has a hammer action facility which is useful.
I've actually bought oversized brushes before today and sanded them down to fit with no problems it's just carbon. I put starter motor brushes in and electric bike motor.
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post #37 of 203 (permalink) Old 21-01-2016, 11:55 Thread Starter
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I've actually bought oversized brushes before today and sanded them down to fit with no problems it's just carbon. I put starter motor brushes in and electric bike motor.
With that in mind I bought some brushes for a DYSON vacuum cleaner. They arrived yesterday but, after further research, less work getting a specialist to use the existing brush housing clips ( I'm told now no longer available ) of my drill and affixing the right size carbon pieces to those ~ less than nine quid posted which has to be good value.

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #38 of 203 (permalink) Old 22-01-2016, 17:27 Thread Starter
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Good clear skies late afternoon so lifted the ZT-T's bonnet to do a few jobs. First, removed the battery and put it on charge. Fitted a fully charged smaller replacement to keep the car secure after work finished in available fading light.

First thing to remove the Clutch Slave Cylinder Assembly. Just separate the quick release connector in much the same way as those fitted to the Fuel Line connection to the Fuel Injector rail. Yeah right. Spent over five minutes trying to separate the Quick Release Connection to the Clutch Hydraulic Fluid Line to Slave Cylinder prior to removal. No chance. Tried ever angle and technique I could think of without losing patience and going heavy handed. Still no Joy.

Looking closely at the Connection, I noticed a spiral "cut in the plastic insert. It looks like something made during production but, could be a break. Took a close up showing that spiral slit in the plastic insert. Any thoughts or pointers here would be appreciated. :~



So, turned my attention to the in-tank Fuel Filter which had been partially disassembled by the previous owner to remove five gallons of fuel when the car looked headed for the breaker yard. :~



Having worked on one of these before, I knew full well that it can be a bit of a Chinese Puzzle to get back together. First thing was to remove the fuel line at the top of the filter to enable better access. As previously, again difficult to release the clip even when given some treatment with the In-Force Releasing Fluid. Careful use of a pair of screwdrivers enabled the hose to be released. I was then able to lift the assembly to check for alignment and see if the Orange Clip has been fitted in previous ownership. It had not :~



It had not so soon fitted one in the correct location. :~



Now in fast fading light packed up and put tools away. Tomorrow is another day. Well past five o'clock when I finished and pleased to see a beautiful yellow Moon rising just above the Horizon in the east.

I'll post a question in a new thread how best to get that pesky "Quick-Release" connection on the Hydraulic Clutch to actually release...

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #39 of 203 (permalink) Old 26-01-2016, 11:36
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Pleased that the Wheel Bolts on the nearside were not silly tight. Easier job but, took longer to remove the tatty wheels and fit Hairpin replacements ( see attachment images ) as the engineless dead car is close to the fence restricting access. Here's the two nearside GRID-spokes. That's after cleaning with the Nilfisk pressure wash. :~



I'll get the tyres removed professionally and take the bare alloys less weights and valves up to Brum and leave for refurbishment and Powder Coating. Another member not far away has some wheels to take up too so we will share the trip.

I also power washed both nearside wheel arches along withn the hubs, calipers, brake discs and suspension components. The rear springs came up like new and I suspect they are fairly recent replacements.

I noticed the Clutch Pedal is on the floor so I guess that means the Clutch Hydraulics will need to be bled once it's all assembled. This is the inside of the Bell Housing after a power wash.:~



The clutch release bearing and its return spring were dislodged during engine removal. :~



Using my fingers to check for roughness indicating a worn bearing I could not detect any. Think it best to get one anyway.

Never had to deal with this type of "in bell housing" release mechanism before. Any pointers here for those with experience of these are most welcome.
Hi John,

This is what you need: Rover 75 / mg ztt clutch slave cylinder | TAZU
The clutch slave on the 75 is a well known weak point and often the main cause of a clutch failure. It should always be replaced upon clutch renewal and there is a upgraded version available in metal from Tazu parts in Poland. This one and the OEM item from LUK should be the only two options

Nice to see your progress
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post #40 of 203 (permalink) Old 26-01-2016, 14:00 Thread Starter
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Wheels now with Refurbishing Firm.

Thanks Bienet1.

Wheel refurbishment.

Used the MG ZT 1.8t saloon to take eleven ZT alloy wheels up for refurbishment. Not looking forward to the trip as in the past, it has been a PITA particularly on heavily traffic laden M5 .... was quite a bit of traffic but, with one exception all well behaved and most sticking to the speed limit. Even me...

The exception being a six-axle huge articulated truck ( foreign plates ) who was in the wrong lane for continuing on the M5 and so swerved the massive truck at the last possible moment to avoid using the M42. Good job the road surface was dry. Try that stroke on greasy roads and it's Jack-knife time. Seen that before.

See attached images showing how you can get eleven 18" Alloy Wheels in a ZT. Six in the boot and five in the passenger area. Four very tatty Gridspokes (mine) and seven Hairpins another local ZT-T owner living in Glos. needed doing. We will share the trips and I'll go with him when the wheels are ready for collection. That helps to keep overall costs down. He also has a more suitable vehicle for the job ... Ford Caddy converted to van. Also included images of them at the refurbishers along with completed wheels awaiting collection there.

Whole round trip completed in just under three hours including fifteen minutes at the refurbisher firm. Hope the journey up to collect is as good. Previous trips have been a nightmare with lengthy hold ups on the M5 Motorway and in the second City. Never seen central Birmingham so traffic free as it was today.

This is the first fast longer trip in the ZT 1.8t for some months. So, once back home, about half an hour after hot engine switch off, I lifted the bonnet and squeezed the top hose. Still quite firm but not overly so. That I expected in the still quite warm engine. I slowly, v e r y slowly undid the Expansion Bottle until a hardly discernable hiss from the cap still attached to the neck of the bottle. Squeezed the top hose again and no longer firm. Then removed the pressure cap and looking inside the Expansion Bottle pleased to see the coolant at the correct level... Still puzzles me why they did not fit a semi-transparent Expansion Bottle of the type fitted to the smaller MGs and Rovers. I shall check the fuel consumption next fill-up. Last brim-to-brim check in the ZT showed 22 mpg! However, then not driven economically, no long trips and around freezing ambient temperatures will destroy any frugal consumption aspirations.... .
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2016-01-25 Trip to Digbeth. 001.jpg (151.0 KB, 19 views)
File Type: jpg 2016-01-25 Trip to Digbeth. 002.jpg (95.5 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg 2016-01-25 Trip to Digbeth. 003.jpg (103.3 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg 2016-01-25 Trip to Digbeth. 004.jpg (106.4 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg 2016-01-25 Trip to Digbeth. 005.jpg (100.6 KB, 23 views)

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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