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My new project arrives .. A Mk11 MG ZXT-T 1.8t.

42K views 203 replies 26 participants last post by  simondhopkins01 
#1 ·
Some of you may remember my previous project to fit a low mileage MG6 engine into an MG ZT 1.8t Saloon. Owing to ongoing health issues, now largely a thing of the past, I've hardly touched that project owing to that and other circumstances. In a way that has been a positive delay because the project car was not as nice as my other ZT and when another member here contacted me enquiring if I'd like to add his "poorly" ZT-T 1.8t to my collection it soon became an offer I could not refuse. By sheer coincidence, much like waiting for a bus and two come along at once ~ not that I use a bus but I used to do when I lived in London many years ago ~ on the same day another member here offered me another of my favourite cars, a Rover 620ti needing some TLC. Anyway, with the help of my younger son James, I collected the ZT-T yesterday. Here it is :~







The pictures show it in a better light as is often the case with pictures of cars. Actually, it is the basis of a tidy car with some TLC and rather more serious work. The engine has much of the cylinder head in the rear tourer hatch and the actual cylinder head resting unattached on the block.

Having looked at the car more closely it did not take long for a no brainer decision to be taken to put the MG6 engine in the ZT-T and repair one of the 1.8t K-Series for the saloon. That's the plan. My sons agree. More follows.
 
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#73 ·
Bit more done this sunny afternoon.

Despite having to do some family shopping and other tasks today, including cooking the family's meal ~ my choice ~ curried chicken and rice ~ I was able to find time to clean up the Dual Mass Flywheel [ DMF ] Assembly and clutch. Should not take too long. I'll use my 24 Volt Cordless Impact driver to remove those six 10mm Clutch Cover Bolts. No chance! Dead as a doornail....:frown: Typical. Suspect worn carbon brushes... things come in threes and already resurrected two 240volt power tools with carbon brush replacement. More on this later.

So, used a socket drive and 10mm socket ... manually.

Using a wire brush in an Electric Drill, I tackled the two friction surfaces. Both came up reasonably clean but still plenty of evidence of "scuffing" on both surfaces. Not good enough so used some 180 grade wet and dry used wet with warm water. That's better as these pictures show. First the DMF :~



Then the Clutch Cover :~





Then I turned my attention to my non-runner 24 Volt Impact driver's resurrection. Soon sorted ~ deep joy :rocker: :~

The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums - View Single Post - My old Crypton Battery Charger ~ Risen like the Phoenix ...
 
#74 ·
More progress today. :|

With the K-Series 1.8t's Dual Mass Flywheel and Clutch Cover Plate all cleaned up, I set about fitting this assembly to the MG6 Engine. Stood Engine Timing End down on some stout cushions and rubber mats. Easier to visually centrally locate the Clutch Driven Plate using eyes only that way. I used a very thin smear of Copper Grease on the Crankshaft~DMF interface.



Delighted to find that the DMF located and fitted perfectly. Used Threadlock on the six 13mm Bolts.



Used a Torque Wrench set at 80nm on the six bolts :~



Belt and braces me used another Wrench at same setting as a double check. All well.



Easy to centrally locate the new MG-Rover Driven Plate :~



All done and just need smaller Torque Wrench set at only 9nm for the six Clutch Cover 10mm Bolts.





That engine is now ready to fit into the ZT-T. Before I can do that, need to do further cleaning of the engine compartment and fit the new Clutch Slave Cylinder. I will not connect that to the Master Cylinder Fluid Line until I am sure the engine is up and running OK.

Need to collect my engine crane from my store.

Getting there ... ever so slowly ... :) ... :|
 
#75 ·
Several jobs on the ZT-T done today. #1

Time well spent today. First thing was to collect my Engine Crane from the store about a mile away. Need that as could slot the engine in tomorrow all being well.

So, got the new Clutch Slave Cylinder ready to fit and so pulled the bonnet release. Uh-Oh ..... Release Lever VERY stiff! Not good. However, it did open. Last thing I need is for the Nipples on the Bowden Cables to become detached by heavy handed treatment needed on the lever. So, got some In-Force Penetrating Fluid and sprayed that over the twin Bonnet Locks on the Slam Panel and the spring loaded locating pins in the Bonnet itself. It's good stuff and I allowed it to soak in and then wiped clean. I doubt they've been lubricated since leaving Longbridge. The old lubricant had solidified over time.

Wiped all four Locking Components clean and lubricated all their moving parts with some fresh LM Grease. Tested the locks by wedging the release lever with a length of wood and checked they had fully withdrawn. They had. Worked the lever back and forth several times and was pleased it was much smoother now. Close the bonnet and pulled the lever. Bonnet sprung open with a satisfying "healthy" sound. Checked it a few more times and was confident all was as it should be. A little TLC can make things so much better. Had a Bonnet release come undone on my ZT saloon and that was a pain. Drove around for a few days unable to open the bonnet. Not an easy fix. Do not want a repeat ... :)

It's the little annoying jobs like these which slow progress but, have to be done and result in a nicer car to live with.

For those interested, the attached images show what was done.

Can now deal with the fitment of the Clutch Slave Cylinder. Still time today.
 

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#76 ·
Several jobs on the ZT-T done today. #2

Fitting the new Slave Cylinder. Not as easy as removing the original. Original had more flexible rubber (?) hoses whilst replacement hoses are less flexible metal.

Signs of rust between the splines on the Gearbox Input Shaft. Used a smear or two of LM Grease on the splines, working it in using the old Clutch Driven plate. Then wiped away any traces of grease excess.

I found fitting the Slave assembly with it's less flexible hose tubes almost difficult. I now wonder if it would be better to have removed the two hoses by releasing their split pins, fitting the Slave over the Input Shaft and then refitting the hoses and their split pin retainers. I'll have a play with the old Slave when time allows. May learn something.

Fitting the Rubber Grommet in the hole in the top of the Bell Housing was not difficult.

Then I remembered my son telling me he had damaged the four wires at the top of the O2 Sensor badly when removing the half engine. Better do that next .. see next post ...
 

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#77 ·
Several jobs on the ZT-T done today. #3

Located my hefty 22mm Ring and open ended spanner. I have a 22mm Crows Foot Socket which may be more effective but will try the spanner first. The Sensor was silly tight as is usually the case. About to give up when one last shove on the spanner started the sensor to move. Gave it a blast with the excellent In-Force Penetrating fluid and then it came out rather more easily. Looking at the four damaged wires at the top I suspect by carefully repairing it will still work. I have a good spare or two "somewhere" in my garage. Quicker to locate one of those than repair the damaged one. Attached images tell the story.
 

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#78 ·
MG6 Engine ~ MG-Rover 1.8t K Series Gearbox Interface Checks.

Really glad I did these checks. Had I not done so and offered the MG6 Engine to the Gearbox, I would not be able to mate them because too many locating dowels.

Here in this image of the MG-R Gearbox, you can clearly see TWO slightly rusted locating dowels. :~



Viewed from above clearly shows the lightly corroded dowels. :~



Here in this image the opposing locating dowels in the MG6 engine are also present. :~



Clearly four into two will not go. Would have been very annoyed discovering that with the MG6 Engine lowered into the engine the engine compartment.

Then checked the original 1.8t K-Series Engine to see both corresponding locating dowel sites vacant... that as it should be. :)



So, which ones to remove. The easier to access still new and shiny ones in the MG6 engine, or the corroded ones in the Gearbox which will be more difficult to remove owing to access limitations and no doubt, unseen corrosion. Even so, I think I'll remove the ones in the gearbox.

Which pair would you chose to remove?... :)
 
#80 ·
I have since given both rusty dowels a quick blast with In-Force Penetrating Fluid prior to their removal. Within a few seconds, they looked like new. Good stuff that In-Force. They'll still be coming out.

Earlier I got the Engine Crane partially reassembled prior to putting the ZT-T on axle stands so that with wheels removed, I can move and position the suspended engine precisely. Guess what, the Sun soon disappeared behind big black clouds and .... Hail Stones bouncing all over the shop! It's a sign ... I can take a hint ..... :rolleyes:
 
#81 ·
On the subject on MG6 Engine MG-R 1.8t ZT Gearbox compatibility, I double checked further looking at the MG6 bare engine images before flywheel fitting. Here it is :~

MG6


and here is the MG-Rover Engine view in the same way showing identical locations and other features. The engine and gearbox should align and mate perfectly :~

MG-Rover 1.8t


Still cold and raining so nothing more done today. May go into the garage and sort out all the bolts, mounts and other fittings. I was pleased my older son removed the original 1/2 engine for me. However, the downside of that being I did not see what bolts came from where. Best way to learn these things is real time "hands on" I feel. My son is keen to get the ZT-T up and running but, no way am I hurrying things. I want it done right no matter how long it takes. Even so, pleased with the slow progress to date and, weather permitting, things should progress faster now.

Oh yes, need to check my store boxes for an O2 sensor as the wiring on the original was damaged during engine removal.
 
#82 ·
Tied up a few time consuming loose ends on the ZT-T today but, had a small disappointment. I located my small stash of O2 sensors and was pleased to see two had the same connector as the slight damaged ( wiring ) of the original that came with the car. The connectors would not ... connect. Looking inside each I saw the reason why. There are several locating "keyways" which were different although externally the rest of the assembly and wiring looked identical. Tempted to swap the connectors but, as no hurry, next visit to the breaker yard may provide the one I need.

I previously mentioned my son removed the half engine. He collected the many bolts and several mounts and brackets. I have no idea what bolts go where although the bracket locations are fairly obvious. Anyway, did a little research on bolt sizes and lengths and do not think it will be a big problem, just needs a little more time.

When finished and trying to lock the car, nothing doing. No interior light either. The Instruments barely showing anything when switched on ~ only the AirBag icon glowed dimly, nothing else. Took the battery off and replaced it with a good used one. Operation fully restored and put the weak battery ( now showing 7 volts ) on charge. With door and hatch open most of the time, that meant interior lights reduced battery power. Pleased to see old battery taking a charge nicely.

I also showed my son how to check, clean and set the contact breaker points on his 1982 MG Metro which he wants to take up to the NEC next week. Running rough and lumpy. Difficult to start when hot too.

Cleaned Spark Plugs and after giving the little used car's Distributor, Rotor Arm and Contact Breaker Points ( What's those Dad? ... :) ) a little TLC, the MG's A-Series burst into life immediately.
 
#84 ·
I also showed my son how to check, clean and set the contact breaker points on his 1982 MG Metro which he wants to take up to the NEC next week. Running rough and lumpy. Difficult to start when hot too.

Cleaned Spark Plugs and after giving the little used car's Distributor, Rotor Arm and Contact Breaker Points ( What's those Dad? ... :) ) a little TLC, the MG's A-Series burst into life immediately.
I converted to electronic ignition on my B-series engine in my Morris Oxford -68. It ran OK before, but what a difference after converting to electronic ignition!! Idle and cold start was much better and smoother. The kit costed somthing like £25 and was a direct fit under the distributor cap. Except for one extra wire between the distributor and coil, no one could see that mine has been converted. A greatly recommended upgrade for everyone with a classic car :)
 
#86 ·
Worked on two MG ZTs today.

Good progress on the project MG ZT-T.

Firstly, as my Anthracite project MG ZT 1.8t saloon had not been moved for the best part of a year, I noticed two of the tyres had lost air pressure. So, unable to use the car on the road, wheels had to come off. Jacked up one side of the car at the rear sill jacking pad point. Impressed by the body rigidity ~ note both wheels well clear of the ground. Used my electric 12v tyre pump connected to my Rover 620ti's cigar lighter. Put 40psi in each ~ should help preserve tyre sidewall integrity.



Then moved my attention to the MG ZT-T. Needed to get the front of the car up sufficiently to enable the engine crane to move freely when fitting the MG6 engine. With limited DIYer facilities and working in the cold, this job and the previous one took over two hours. Glad it's up on Axle Stands now.



With no engine weight to worry about, I used this point on the front cross member to raise the car to allow the two front Jacking Point Pads to rest on the Axle Stands. Will have to check if that can be used with the extra weight when the engine is installed.



Doubt I'll be able to do much tomorrow as I have to collect a large chair my other half won on ebay. Hundred mile round trip. I shall use my son's Rover 25 as being a hatch, with the rear seats folded down the big chair should fit OK.
 
#87 ·
John with regards the picture above, its should be able to support being jacked up there with engine and gearbox, i have used this point on the subframe quite often to jack up the front end of a 75 or ZT, sometimes with a lot a vehicles in our workshop it's nice, quick and easy, i always support on axle stand on the the jack pads though, lernt my lesson a good few years ago now; how qucick a trolley jack can let go if the seal fails, will not do that again.

If only our apprentice would take notice though, he will quite often go under vehicles that are just on trolley jacks; i swaer some youngsters think they are invincable.
 
#88 ·
Thanks for that confirmation Julian. It does look like a substantial Jacking Point. I will use it when the engine is installed.

John with regards the picture above, its should be able to support being jacked up there with engine and gearbox, i have used this point on the subframe quite often to jack up the front end of a 75 or ZT, sometimes with a lot a vehicles in our workshop it's nice, quick and easy, i always support on axle stand on the the jack pads though, lernt my lesson a good few years ago now; how qucick a trolley jack can let go if the seal fails, will not do that again.
Wise words Julian. The red ZT-T is supported on both sides with axle stands on the Jacking Point Pads. Both front pads were missing on the car. I picked up a set on a previous visit to a local breaker yard. Things like that always come in handy.

I have three trolley jacks acquired over the years. Yes, the oldest does very slowly let go and lowers. I'll fix it ... one day.. :)

I had a seal go on my pro-spec 3 tonner a few years ago. Fortunately NOT when used to hoist a car. It simply would not Jack-up next time I tried to use it. It's the one I use most frequently as it has a useful low entry facility. Not sure what to do, I removed its worn seal and took it along to a Hydraulics specialist on Innsworth Technology Industrial Estate on the outskirts of Gloucester. They looked through their store of seals and came up with a couple of new ones the same dimensions ... 11 pence each. Jack good as gold ever since. Now I'm an Hydraulics engineer .. :)

Julian said:
If only our apprentice would take notice though, he will quite often go under vehicles that are just on trolley jacks; i swear some youngsters think they are invincible.
When I was young I believed I would live forever... yes, invincible... :)

More seriously, many moons ago, I read a sickening report of a mother taking a cup of tea out to her son working on his car. Found son crushed to death... :( OK a million to one chance but ensure you're not that one!

ALWAYS take the little extra time to work in a safe environment. Axle stands and wheel chocks. Drop your guard for just as second ... that's all it takes.

For a year or so now, my favourite car breakers I first visited with my father as a junior schoolboy back in the early 1950s now does not allow folks to jack up cars themselves. Must ask staff to do it for you. On two occasions whilst I was there in the past ten years, I worked closeby and popped in at least once a week, an Ambulance has been called for someone working on the scrap cars.

It is a well run yard and if you need to work under a car, they will prepare a safe environment for you. I wanted some gear linkage off a Rover 600 a few years back. They put the car on this purpose built trestle ... Luxury .. :D

 
#90 ·
Just to add to the "don't go under an unsupported vehicle theme".
A JCB driver thought it would be a good idea to place his digger bucket on the top of the Porta Loo to stop the kids from moving it. The next morning though it had moved!
Downwards towards the ground when the seals leaked overnight and the bucket crushed it.:surprise::grin:
 
#91 ·
Thanks for that informative post with pictures Bienet1. Looks a simple upgrade.

Very helpful. I'll alert my son.

Continuous heavy rain this morning. Doubt I'll get anything done on the car today.
 
#92 ·
Interesting blurb on the jack - I've got and old trolley jack that struggles to lift under load. Though it is temperamental and sometimes does! Does this sound like a seal? I've topped up the oil and run through the bleeding procedure to no avail. I've got a new one, but if a few pence on seals will fix the old one...
 
#95 ·
Does sound like a weeping or worn seal. my beam jack on my MOT ramp has a worn seal, every time the ramp guys come to to inspect the ramps ( us halfords autocentre's have to have it every 3-6 months to comply with health and safety) i tell the them, they just top it up and bleed it. one day i will get a new beam jack.
 
#93 ·
It's certainly worth a try. Look closely to see where if any, the fluid is being lost. It was obvious with my 3 ton Low Entry Trolley Jack. Note the filth adhering to the leaked fluid around the Hydraulic Pump Shaft ~ the bright metal shaft to the left in this picture.



The fluid was passing the seal in the pump.

Before deciding to consign to the scrap metal bin, decided to have a look. Nothing to loose. I'd still have a useless Jack ... or not.

I part dismantled the Pump's Lever Assembly and that enabled me to pull out that shaft which is also the Pump/Piston. Looked into its cylinder bore to see a seal in a groove in the cylinder not looking too good. Used some fine forceps to tease it out and took that along to the Hydraulic Specialist.

22p for two seals. Fitted one with fresh fluid and bled my 3 ton Jack. Result now fully restored to operating condition. So pleased I part dismantled the major components washed and cleaned them all up. Painted the tatty bits including the large diameter white lift head. Not only did I have a fully operational Jack again, but it looked like new... Bonus and several years later, still working well.
 
#96 ·
The worn Seal was not the one in the BIG lift cylinder, it was the one in the small hydraulic pump which pressurises the BIG cylinder to raise the lift.

All my Trolley Jacks have a small pump cylinder. That little seal takes a beating every time you Jack up a heavy vehicle. The BIG seals in the main lift cylinder are far less stressed. Check the small lift pump seal(s)*** first ~ there's probably an exploded diagram of your Jack somewhere on the web. That will help when you decide to investigate.

***

The two Jacks I have serviced now only had one seal in the small pump cylinder.
 
#97 ·
Bolts and Dowels.

Had hoped to install the MG6 engine today. Fat chance. Strong winds and near horizontal rain most of the morning meant nothing done to the ZT-T. Anyway, our Vaillant boiler played up from 5 pm Monday night leaving a cold house although I manged to get it going about midnight. By then we had arranged for someone to come and check it. 08.30 today the travelling engineer arrived and gave it a thorough checkover leaving about 10.00. I was impressed with the care and attention he showed and he pointed out one of two things to look out for in future. Then boiler is working better than ever now and we have a warm house.

The rain eventually eased and stopped although the silly strong winds were still blowing. It's recycling bin collection today and several houses had theirs blown away all over the shop. I always weigh mine down on a been there done that basis. The collection Guys must have cleared up after because apart from a big Pizza box wedged under the wheel of my son's Rover 25, no sign of any other rubbish ... or it was long since blown away.

At last weather improved mid-afternoon so I was able to check the various bolts and where they might go on the MG6 Engine ~ MG ZT-T Gearbox Interface. These are they ~ there's a lot... :)



Some were quite obvious like the right side major engine mount and some of the lower mounts I am familiar with. However the actual gearbox engine bolts I examined and offered up to both engine and gearbox and could then see what went where for most of them. When my son removed the engine ( he's very keen to see this car up and running ~ the impatience of youth ... :) ) he put all the bolts in one box. He kept the starter bolts with the starter. The rest all into one box. So as I had not removed any of those bolts, not much idea what went where.

Having done all that, tried to remove the old locating dowels from the gearbox. Would need to destroy them to do that despite soaking of good penetrating fluid. So used that In-Force fluid on the still clean corrosion free ones on the MG6 Engine. Using the Mole Grips, working the dowel around back and forth, both eventually were loosened enough to come out. I'll use some 180 Grade wet and dry on the lightly corroded old ones in the gearbox to clean them up to reduce the chances of fitment problems. Here's the stuff I used and the close to fifty year old Mole Grips given to me many moons age. They were not new then.



Onoing and getting ever closer to seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. Good eh.
.
 
#98 ·
Another day with precious little time to spend on the car.

I did manage to rub the light corrosion from their paintless areas and then paint those mild steel engine mounts. Looked like new. That will enable them to live on much longer. They are after all already thirteen years old.

I have sorted all the various mounts, brackets and bolts arranging them ready for when needed to mount the engine. I plan to do that tomorrow as everything is now ready. It's all down to the weather Gods now. Colder with snow in some areas forecast.... :rolleyes:

Sometimes I think the whole Universe is against me.... ;)
 
#99 ·
I cannot believe the unplanned series of distractions which kept me away from the project today. Still it did try to snow a lot this afternoon and that turned to sleet so not ideal. So not much time lost.

Trawling my Pictures Library, came across these images of the "donor" MG6 visiting a few months before it's unfortunate demise.



General view of engine compartment with engine cover removed. Note the Coolant Expansion Bottle where the coolant level can be clearly seen, unlike the opaque item on the MG ZT and Rover 75s. :~



Closer view of engine with cover removed. Note the Fly By Wire ( FBW ) Throttle Body and the Emissions Gizmo just above the Exhaust manifold. :~

 
#100 ·
I spotted someone breaking an MG6 1.8t up in Birmingham. May ask about and how much they want for the MG6 1.8t engine unit. May be worth a punt.

Ebay item :~

281955322236
 
#102 ·
Planned to fit engine today.

Got the Engine Crane reassembled all ready. It had been partially dismantled to save space in the garage. Got all the tools ready and carefully positioned all the bolts and various housings close to hand. Then, fortuitously as it happened spotted a BIG difference in the Oil Filter Housings. The MG6 had only one Oil Pressure Sensor whilst the MG ZT-T 1.8t had two. Ignore the picture details, the MG6 Oil Filter Housing with the single Oil Pressure sensor is the one on the left, with the MG-Rover item showing two sensors on the right :~



Did not take long to remove them but, pointless to without a new Gasket. looking at the Chinese Oil Filter gasket, it appeared to be made of good stuff without adhesive and may be possible to remove intact. So it proved :~



So was able to complete the Filter Assembly transfer reusing the MG6's gasket and its MG-Rover Oil Filter which was still obviously new. :~



Right the engine is ready to attach to the gearbox in the car, Engine crane positioned all ready. Just need to relocate the offside driveshaft which became dislocated when my son removed the original half-engine. Could I do that, no way. Even steped into the engine compartment to be beter able to align things was equally unsuccessful. When supporting the Gearbox with a trolley jack to restore its normal orientation still no joy but, it did enter a millimeter or two further in. Never had this trouble with a PG1 gearbox I'm more familiar with although those PG1 driveshafts can be difficult to release from the PG1 Box.

So, what to do. Put up a "How to" information request on the Rover/MG sites?

One last try. First I removed some of the light rust on the offside Brake Disc to enable me to rotae it and the driveshaft with a hefty screwdriver in the disc vents. A little at a time then attempt to reinsert the driveshaft. BINGO ... in it went. What a relief! Before and after images of driveshaft :~

Before :~



After :~



By this time despite plenty of usable daylight, the temperature was falling rapidly with heavy overnight frosts forecast. So packed up and will get stuck in tomorrow.
 
#104 ·
Crank Sensor Clearance. More Rain.

Positioning the gearbox prior to engine fitting I encountered a clearance problem. The Turbocharger and Crankshaft Sensor came into contact and as soon as I felt that, stopped using the trolley jack. Looking at the problem, looks like the sensor has suffered minor damage. Will remove it to provide clearance.

I spent Sunday afternoon at the NEC's Classic Car Restoration Show. After looking at the vast number of interesting cars there, including my son's 1982 MG Metro running ongoing restoration project, I trawled some the the trade stands looking at al the tools available. I spent a nice few quid on tools including three "Palm Socket Drivers" ~ sizes 1/2"; 3/8"; 1/4" ~ I used the 1/4" one to remove the Crank Sensor Bolt on my ZT-T project. :~



Should have got some ages ago...

Ce
 
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