So got stuck in to some car stuff. First thing was to replace the nearside dipped beam bulb on my son's Rover 25. Should only take a minute or two. No way, bonnet stuck!
With my son lifting the leading edge of the bonnet and me pulling the release lever inside the car, it pinged open. That's a relief. Soon had the bulb replaced and for good measure, liberally sprayed the bonnet latch and lock mechanism with some In-Force Penetrating Fluid. Good stuff did the trick and bonnet opened and shut as it should.
Then turned my attention to the ZT-T's original K-Series engine. I had already given it a first clean some weeks ago but, on the rear of the engine there was lots of baked on old oil which was difficult to shift. I plan to fully refurbish this engine using Cylinder Liner Shims if necessary. However, before closely checking various items it needs to be clean. I hate working on filthy engines. So much so that the engines in my cars are often cleaner than the paintwork. That's just me ..
So set up the pressure washer and that takes time too. I use a Nilfisk remanufactured one bought a couple of years ago. Gave the engine and Dual Mass Flywheel assembly a thorough blast and was pleased with how clean those parts became after the power wash. That's better :~
Note in the above image, the tops of Cylinder Liners 1 and 4 appear "cleaner" than liners 2 and 3. That got me thinking. More on that later.
Next picture seen from lower front of sump and block :~
This was the filthy rear of the engine which cleaned up well :~
The engine ID serial number is located on a blank polished area top right of cylinder block ~ should you ever need to locate the one on your K-Series engine. Usually tucked away under other engine components. I'll check the number against the V5c ~ you never know.
Then the sun dropped behind the Hill and the temperature similarly dropped rapidly. Beautiful angled slim crescent Moon seen soon after dark in the still clear skies.
Tomorrow I will get the Metric Feeler Gauges and check those liners. My usual finger test showed two, maybe three liners very slightly proud of the surrounding block metal and the third flush level. Looking for signs of severe overheating evidence showed nothing untoward to my amateur less experienced eyes. Based on what I've seen so far, this engine maybe worth rebuilding...
That Dual Mass Flywheel and Clutch Assembly IS heavy! When fitted onto the MG6 Engine I will need help shifting it ready to place in the ZT-T's engine compartment.
Good to make some little progress today. As they say, tomorrow is another day.