My new project arrives .. A Mk11 MG ZXT-T 1.8t. - Page 3 - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #41 of 203 (permalink) Old 27-01-2016, 16:51 Thread Starter
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A little more progress today.

Removed the Clutch Release Hydraulic Slave Cylinder Assembly today. Full story here :~

Clutch Slave Assembly Released and Removed

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post #42 of 203 (permalink) Old 27-01-2016, 23:54 Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Slave Cylinder purchased.

Both Luk and TAZU come well recommended. Gone for this Luk item on ebay

Luk 75/ZT Hydraulic Clutch Slave Cylinder

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post #43 of 203 (permalink) Old 30-01-2016, 13:09 Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Refurbished Gridspokes.

Collected the ZT-T's four Gridspoke Alloy Wheels from City Powder Coaters in Birmingham. Considering their condition when I took them up on Monday, very tatty and corroded, I'm delighted with the final result.

Here they are :~







That's another task ticked off from the to do list.

That's another task ticked off from the to do list. I travelled up in member Andy's Ford Caddy Diesel as he had his seven Hairpins done too.

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post #44 of 203 (permalink) Old 30-01-2016, 16:44
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Good result John. The later wheels always seem to corrode and go flaky, no doubt due to MGR's cost cutting, but these refurbed wheels will look fab on the car.
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post #45 of 203 (permalink) Old 01-02-2016, 08:57
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Blimey, that's an amazing result! I well remember how tatty they were. May I ask how much it cost?
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post #46 of 203 (permalink) Old 01-02-2016, 09:43 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JensenHealey View Post
Blimey, that's an amazing result! I well remember how tatty they were. May I ask how much it cost?
Yes, 20 each. I along with another Glos. based MG ZT-T owner took eleven bare wheels up to B'Ham. Sharing the travel costs, I took them up Monday last week and they were ready on Thursday. We travelled up Saturday morning to collect all eleven wheels.

He like me is delighted with the results :~

===============================

Hi John,

Here are a couple of pictures of my wheels - thought you might like to put them on forum ( I have never worked out how to !)

Incredible quality for the price paid.

No objection to you mentioning me by name if you want.
Andy

===============================

These two images are of his Hairpins which were attached to the email :~




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post #47 of 203 (permalink) Old 01-02-2016, 12:02
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WHAT?!?!?!? I thought places charged about 60-70 per wheel for that sort of treatment! At that rate it'd be worth having wheels couriered there and back.
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post #48 of 203 (permalink) Old 01-02-2016, 13:28 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JensenHealey View Post
WHAT?!?!?!? I thought places charged about 60-70 per wheel for that sort of treatment! At that rate it'd be worth having wheels couriered there and back.
I thought about doing that. No problems sending tatty wheels up by courier. My concern is the courier handling of the nicely finished refurbished wheels on the way back. So, discounted that idea for that reason.

I bought four Rover Vitesse 17" Alloy Wheels with Good Tyres from a Rover enthusiast up in Scotland. Using Paisley Freight, those heavy wheels with tyres cost thirty quid to courier down to me in Gloucester. Only took about three days in total. Splendid service and good value. Good value and service is out there if you care to search. This is one of the four Wheels. :~



... and this is what they looked like on the Rover 620ti after being refurbished by the same company a couple of years ago :~



You will find outfits that can do a better refurbishing job at the prices you mention. But 3 or more times the price will never equate to three or more times the quality of the end product. Your old tatty wheels Jeff looking very good now, but, looking closely at them they are not perfect. Having DIYer prepared tatty alloy wheels to near perfection myself, I know how much time that preparation takes. For a mere twenty quid each, I am delighted with the finish. Superb all things considered and they will look even better when on the car.

Finally, got my XPGrey ZT 1.8t Saloon MoT-ed today. Passed with two minor advisories. A weep of power steering fluid from one of the PAS hose unions and marginal handbrake operation... just met standards. I suspect the U-shaped connection has opened up in the cable compensator from metal fatigue over the 94,000 miles and twelve years.

Picture and comments here :~

MG ZT 1.8t MoT Pass.

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post #49 of 203 (permalink) Old 01-02-2016, 14:59
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You'll get exactly the same issue with KX54! It was on 17% last MoT, the pass mark is 16%.
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post #50 of 203 (permalink) Old 01-02-2016, 15:40 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JensenHealey View Post
You'll get exactly the same issue with KX54! It was on 17% last MoT, the pass mark is 16%.
When the time comes for the next MoT on any of the ZTs, I have three of these modified Handbrake Cable Compensators which is usually an effective cure for marginal Handbrake performance on ZTs and 75s. :~



The U-shaped component straight from the production line weakens over the years of use and stress and is prone to stretch and open wider which means poor effort on the cables. It's already on the to do list for the ZT-T but, it's not a five minute job to remove the old and fit the modified new one.

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post #51 of 203 (permalink) Old 10-02-2016, 22:23 Thread Starter
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Hardly touched the ZT-T owing to too many demands on my time elsewhere for a few days now.

However, I did spend the best part of an hour removing a few parts from the old engine block.

Although I had drained most of the engine oil from the old engine, indeed, left it to drain for a long time, I know there would still be some oil left in the engine. With this in mind, I turned the engine upside down over a large metal tray resting it carefully to allow it to drain. There was rather more oil left in it than I had anticipated. Some spillage but soon cleaned up. There must have been about 200ml drained.

I'll leave it upside down over the metal tray for a day or so. That should see most of the oil out of the engine. Then I can pressure wash it to get the engine clean enough to start checking stuff and see what needs to be done to get it into good shape again. I may have to fit shims after checking cylinder liner heights.

All being well and weather allowing, I expect to be able to spend more time on this car from now on. Just had a look outside. Clear starlit skies and frost starting to form on the roof of the cars. If it stays clear I expect lots of good light and strong sunshine tomorrow. Should be able to get more things done outside then. Today was the first day for weeks when it did not rain locally... just a spot or two blown about in the wind but, not enough to wet the roads.

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post #52 of 203 (permalink) Old 11-02-2016, 18:25 Thread Starter
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Beautiful sunny day today in Gloucestershire ...

So got stuck in to some car stuff. First thing was to replace the nearside dipped beam bulb on my son's Rover 25. Should only take a minute or two. No way, bonnet stuck! With my son lifting the leading edge of the bonnet and me pulling the release lever inside the car, it pinged open. That's a relief. Soon had the bulb replaced and for good measure, liberally sprayed the bonnet latch and lock mechanism with some In-Force Penetrating Fluid. Good stuff did the trick and bonnet opened and shut as it should.

Then turned my attention to the ZT-T's original K-Series engine. I had already given it a first clean some weeks ago but, on the rear of the engine there was lots of baked on old oil which was difficult to shift. I plan to fully refurbish this engine using Cylinder Liner Shims if necessary. However, before closely checking various items it needs to be clean. I hate working on filthy engines. So much so that the engines in my cars are often cleaner than the paintwork. That's just me ..

So set up the pressure washer and that takes time too. I use a Nilfisk remanufactured one bought a couple of years ago. Gave the engine and Dual Mass Flywheel assembly a thorough blast and was pleased with how clean those parts became after the power wash. That's better :~



Note in the above image, the tops of Cylinder Liners 1 and 4 appear "cleaner" than liners 2 and 3. That got me thinking. More on that later.

Next picture seen from lower front of sump and block :~



This was the filthy rear of the engine which cleaned up well :~



The engine ID serial number is located on a blank polished area top right of cylinder block ~ should you ever need to locate the one on your K-Series engine. Usually tucked away under other engine components. I'll check the number against the V5c ~ you never know.



Then the sun dropped behind the Hill and the temperature similarly dropped rapidly. Beautiful angled slim crescent Moon seen soon after dark in the still clear skies.

Tomorrow I will get the Metric Feeler Gauges and check those liners. My usual finger test showed two, maybe three liners very slightly proud of the surrounding block metal and the third flush level. Looking for signs of severe overheating evidence showed nothing untoward to my amateur less experienced eyes. Based on what I've seen so far, this engine maybe worth rebuilding...

That Dual Mass Flywheel and Clutch Assembly IS heavy! When fitted onto the MG6 Engine I will need help shifting it ready to place in the ZT-T's engine compartment.

Good to make some little progress today. As they say, tomorrow is another day.

Ongoing.

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post #53 of 203 (permalink) Old 13-02-2016, 16:34 Thread Starter
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Question Original 1.8t Engine Liner Height Checks.

In the fading light of yesterday afternoon, I managed to do some basic Liner Height Checks on the original 95,000 mile engine of this MG ZT-T.

In each case, using my stoutest METRIC 1.0mm Feeler Gauge placing it on various parts of the cylinder block around each cylinder liner, made a simple check for liner heights. Thus, by sliding it towards each liner, if it came to a stop butting up against each liner, that would indicate if they are proud of their surrounding block location or not. That happened with each of the four Cylinder Liners. So, all were at least very slightly above cylinder block face. These images show the technique for each cylinder liner. It was a very close run thing for two of the cylinders, numbers 1 and 4 mainly.









Placing this straight edge across each liner, I was able to slide my thinnest 0.05 mm Metric Feeler under most locations easily but not easy to do under Nos. 1 and 4. Just possible and a very tight fit. This image shows the process on Cylinder Liner No. 3 :~



So, with the above in mind, I invite some opinions on this engine which I plan to rebuild.

Do I fit either the Elastomer or Multi-Layer-Steel (MLS) Cylinder Head Gasket to this engine "as is". I will be fitting a nicely prepared Cylinder Head which I had Machine Ground, not skimmed previously ? I prefer alloy heads to be ground on a machine grinder rather than skimmed with a cutter. Maybe because of the very low liners I should rebuild using Liner Shims to raise them and then rebuild maybe with the MLS Gasket.

No hurry to do this rebuild and plenty of time to think how best to go about it.

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......

Last edited by MGJohn; 13-02-2016 at 19:34. Reason: Important correction to the thinnest Feeler Guage from 0.015 to 0.05.
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post #54 of 203 (permalink) Old 14-02-2016, 15:52
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I would rebuild that as is,, re+seal the liners and fit elastomer gasket..with headsaver shim wellsealed to the head..

Last edited by keith8000_0; 14-02-2016 at 16:39.
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post #55 of 203 (permalink) Old 14-02-2016, 17:00 Thread Starter
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I would rebuild that as is,, re+seal the liners and fit elastomer gasket..with headsaver shim wellsealed to the head..
Thanks for that suggestion. I had been thinking along similar lines.

How best to reseal the liners? Can it be done without removing them from the Blocks? I've I had in mind getting each pair of pistons at TDC in turn, then carefully raising their Cylinder Liners with Pistons still inside. Would that allow good access to the step in the Liners' outer side enabling cleaning out the old sealant and replacing with fresh "Hylomar" type? If can only access and do the re-seal work via sump removal may as well fit Liner shims too. Those liners are all nearly flush...

When checking liner heights, by accident simply running my finger along the top of the liners, I noticed I was able to slightly rotate two of them. Maybe all four if I tried. That suggests they would be easy to lift as described above.

I have previously prepared another cylinder head which has a perfect interface surface so no need for Wellseal and saver shim if I use an Elastomer CHG. If I use the MLS, I will use the Head Saver Shim. Based on about a dozen CHGs fitted using the saver shim, it works well.

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post #56 of 203 (permalink) Old 14-02-2016, 18:06
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Keith/ John Is fitting a MLS head saver shim with an elastomer gasket a tried and tested method? Can you reuse a shim if in good condition? And what do you adhere it to the head with? I've planning on doing some head work on my 214 in the spring and I know the liners were a bit uneven from when I had it apart 5 years ago so I was thinking elastomer...

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post #57 of 203 (permalink) Old 14-02-2016, 21:02 Thread Starter
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Keith/ John Is fitting a MLS head saver shim with an elastomer gasket a tried and tested method? Can you reuse a shim if in good condition? And what do you adhere it to the head with? I've planning on doing some head work on my 214 in the spring and I know the liners were a bit uneven from when I had it apart 5 years ago so I was thinking elastomer...
I would never use a Head Saver Shim when fitting an Elastomer CHG. Only and always when fitting the MLS Gasket. Cannot remember seeing any instances of that.

That's the Saver Shim still in its wrapper which always goes on top of the MLS CHG. :~



Fitted :~



I have used the above type MLS and Shim in most of the K-Series CHGs I have renewed. When I removed the Cylinder Head from my 2nd MG ZT 1.8t project, which suffered overheating once warmed up, I found this extraordinary Head Saver Shim and a substantial Multi-Layer-Steel gasket unlike any I've seen before. This one :~





The shim and adjoining Gasket interface were all covered in an elastic like "sealant" which I removed from the shim. This revealed the details in the above pictures.

Looking at this new style to me gasket and comparing it with the construction of the gasket edge I can see on the MG6 Cylinder Head Cylinder Block interface on the Chinese constructed engine, they look very similar... I wonder.

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post #58 of 203 (permalink) Old 14-02-2016, 21:12
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Fitting a Gosnay's type headsaver shim is a normal procedure to replace the depth of material removed during a heavy skim and thereby maintain cylinder capacity, compression ratio and most importantly, valve to piston clearances.

Fitting one to a K series head has the added benefit of providing a clean smooth and guaranteed non-porous face for the head gasket to seal against (any exposed head porosity being covered by the shim, and sealed by the wellseal). It also helps to protect the actual head face from indentation from the fire rings, which is important for saving an overheated head which may have lost some of its hardness - this is the purpose of the shim included with the standard MLS gasket.

I am unsure whether the MLS shim is quite the same thing as fitting a Gosnays type, but may well achieve the same result with the SLS/elastomer gasket as it does with the MLS - protecting the actual head from fire ring indentation, although I don't recall hearing anyone fitting a shim with the SLS/elastomer type gasket.
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post #59 of 203 (permalink) Old 14-02-2016, 21:44
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re seal each liner by pulling liner as piston is at tdc.(so 1+4 then 2+3) clean liner lip and smear a bead of sealant(i use high temp red) around the liner. then re seat.. liners can be pulled up high and you dont have to remove fully from piston rings.. and with regards to the mls shim. i have wellsealed to the head and used elastomer on several occasions with no issues.. shim with wellseal in my opinion is a "belt and braces" job..However some shims come with a sticky surface on already, these need no wellseal.. but with so many kits out there, a lot of the time these shims are coming just painted and bone dry. they can allow the seepage of coolant through..
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post #60 of 203 (permalink) Old 14-02-2016, 22:47 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith8000_0 View Post
re seal each liner by pulling liner as piston is at tdc.(so 1+4 then 2+3) clean liner lip and smear a bead of sealant(i use high temp red) around the liner. then re seat.. liners can be pulled up high and you dont have to remove fully from piston rings.. and with regards to the mls shim. i have wellsealed to the head and used elastomer on several occasions with no issues.. shim with wellseal in my opinion is a "belt and braces" job..However some shims come with a sticky surface on already, these need no wellseal.. but with so many kits out there, a lot of the time these shims are coming just painted and bone dry. they can allow the seepage of coolant through..
Thanks Keith for confirming it can be done in 1-4 and 2-3 pairs of pistons at TDC as I suggested earlier in post #55. Rather pleased I worked that out for myself.

I planned to use BLUE POLYMER Sealant. Used it before when rebuilding Gearboxes. I think that's the colour I've seen when looking down the coolant passageways around the cylinder liners and seeing sealant around the bottom of the liner step. I'll check the wording on the BLUE stuff to see if it's suitable for higher temperatures.

The cylinder head I plan to use I have refurbished to a high standard. The surface was finished lightly on a Grinder, not skimmed with a cutting machine. I suspect the finish is better than that newly prepared on the PowerTrain production line. Yes. I think it's that good. I've had two K-Series and one A-Series Cylinder Heads prepared in this way and the results to my less experienced eyes appear to show a superior finish. Even so, I will fit the Head Saver Shim if I use the MLS. Probably go for the Elastomer anyway. I have one of each type ready.

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