My new project arrives .. A Mk11 MG ZXT-T 1.8t. - Page 4 - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #61 of 204 (permalink) Old 14-02-2016, 23:18
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The stuff they used in original assembly at Powertrain was Blue Hylomar.
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post #62 of 204 (permalink) Old 14-02-2016, 23:33 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Man in the Car View Post
The stuff they used in original assembly at Powertrain was Blue Hylomar.
Thanks MITC.

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post #63 of 204 (permalink) Old 15-02-2016, 06:58
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Originally Posted by Man in the Car View Post
Fitting a Gosnay's type headsaver shim is a normal procedure to replace the depth of material removed during a heavy skim and thereby maintain cylinder capacity, compression ratio and most importantly, valve to piston clearances.

Fitting one to a K series head has the added benefit of providing a clean smooth and guaranteed non-porous face for the head gasket to seal against (any exposed head porosity being covered by the shim, and sealed by the wellseal). It also helps to protect the actual head face from indentation from the fire rings, which is important for saving an overheated head which may have lost some of its hardness - this is the purpose of the shim included with the standard MLS gasket.

I am unsure whether the MLS shim is quite the same thing as fitting a Gosnays type, but may well achieve the same result with the SLS/elastomer gasket as it does with the MLS - protecting the actual head from fire ring indentation, although I don't recall hearing anyone fitting a shim with the SLS/elastomer type gasket.
The difference between the MLS shim and the Gosnay shim is the thickness. The MLS shim is 0,3mm thick and the Gosnay shim is 0,5mm thick. The Gosnay shim will prevent fire ring indentation better as the thicker shim provides a stiffer shim. The Gosnay shim needs to be "Wellsealed" to the cylinder head while the MLS shim often has a pre-applied sealant layer on the cylinder head side.

How to mount a "Gosnay shim" here: The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums - View Single Post - K-engine project - A possible low cost rebuild?
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post #64 of 204 (permalink) Old 15-02-2016, 10:23
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yes the hylomar blue sealant will be ok.. just be aware regarding the mls head saver shim. There are that many on the market. and LOTS dont come with the sticky surface.. the plain smooth black painted ones will need wellsealing to the head to prevent water seepage.. If the head saver has the sticky surface then no wellseal is needed..
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post #65 of 204 (permalink) Old 15-02-2016, 18:42 Thread Starter
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Cool This job has been annoying since I got the car.. Fuel Filter Reassembly.

Thanks for the helpful feedback. Please keep it coming.

Got something worthwhile done on the car in today's fine sunshine.

Ever since I got this MG ZT-T over four months ago now, one outstanding job has been really annoying me. Reassembly of the In Tank Fuel Filter ..

Before he contacted me about the car, the previous owner had decided not to repair and was all prepared to scrap it. The engine was already a partially dismantled basket case. Knowing there was quite a lot of fuel still in the car, he removed the Fuel Filter Access Panel and the Fuel Filter to access and drain the fuel. I'd have done the same with fuel so costly now.

Putting it all back together was a job I'd prefer not to do. So, looking on the bright side, as always.. ... whilst it's apart, check for Orange Clip and fit one if not present. It wasn't and I have a clip and fitted it. Time constraints and failing light stopped me completing the job when I fitted the Orange Clip a while back :~



Lowering the Fuel Filter into the Fuel Tank can only be done once the Top Seal has been fitted carefully around the top of the large aperture. That's it tucked up under the top Cap of the filter body. It needs to be slid down to fit it properly. The only way to do this is to raise the body of the Filter assembly sufficiently to allow its narrower lower part access for your fingers to manipulate and locate the filter around the aperture. Fiddly rather than difficult. Only then will the filter slip down perfectly sealing the tanks again once the locking ring is secured.

There is a "Key" which has to be lined up and then the Filter Drops down into place easily. :~



Then fit the securing Locking Ring and reconnect the fuel hose. That should stop any more unwanted petrol smells in the car now. :~



Then replace the cover and secure its four 10mm Bolts.:~



Not quite finished. Need to switch on and see it the fuel level sensor float for the fuel gauge readings still works. It did :~



No doubt the observant will notice the AirBag light still illuminated. It did go out.. Another little but time consuming job done.

Getting there ... slowly and in the cold. Just heard the local weather forecast. All set for the coldest night of the year so far...

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post #66 of 204 (permalink) Old 16-02-2016, 13:51
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Looking good John.....keep em coming.
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post #67 of 204 (permalink) Old 16-02-2016, 16:18
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Well done John! I spent about an hour trying to get that s0dding thing back in. Is it easier to remove and refit the pump on the other side of the tank?
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post #68 of 204 (permalink) Old 16-02-2016, 21:15 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JensenHealey View Post
Well done John! I spent about an hour trying to get that s0dding thing back in. Is it easier to remove and refit the pump on the other side of the tank?
You are far from alone in struggling with that Cap on the In-Tank Fuel Filter. I struggled with it on my ZT Saloon two years ago. Then by looking closely at the construction of that large Top Seal, particularly its outer edge, I realised it has to be lowered from being tucked up under the cap whilst the Filter Body is raised two inches or so. Raising it allows the seal to be placed around the circular aperture of the fuel tank. Only then can the seal be carefully fitted with dexterous fingers around the aperture in the Fuel Tank. Fiddly job rather than difficult.

The first time I did the job, it was with a ZT 1.8t fuel tank 90% Full! The previous owner had recently filled up then soon after, the engine just cut out. He and those trying to start the car had no idea why. I bought it as a non-runner with suspect CHG damage. That car, like your old one, was yet another challenging learning exercise. I had no idea why it would not start when I bought it. Putting a generous teaspoonful of RON's 95 finest in the throttle body, the car's engine would start, run for 2-3 seconds then die. That gave me the clue that fuel was not getting to the Injectors although it would appear to be when disconnecting the fuel line and turning the ignition on. That was misleading as the all important pressure was not there. Refitting the Orange Clip after realigning the Cap to the Body of the in-tank Fuel Filter, then immediate engine start.That once the Filter was back inside the Fuel tank and all clamped and bolted securely. Always a satisfying experience when that happens.

Prior to rectifying that fuel supply problem, web and google searches turned up scary stories of other unfortunate owners with the same non-start problem spending 100s and still have a non-running car. One poor devil with exactly the same problem as with my car spent close to a grand for new Fuel Tank, new In-Tank Fuel Filter and Fuel Pump. Who knows, his car may only have needed an Orange Clip and Inner Thin Seal like my car did ~ cost about twelve quid posted ~ with less than an hour labour for amateur me.

All being well and provided no other demands on my time, I shall give the ZT-T's Dual Mass Flywheel a good clean up tomorrow. Ready to fit to the MG6 engine with a new driven plate. The ZT-T's old plate had plenty of wear left but, took this opportunity to fit new.

Gosh it's heavy! The DMF and clutch I mean...The MG6 engine uses a conventional Flywheel and Clutch. When the DMF is fitted to the MG6 Engine no way will I be able to man-handle that lot alone. Good that I have two big strong sons... ... and a decent engine crane. Paid for itself many times over. Here it is removing a 620ti Lump :~


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post #69 of 204 (permalink) Old 17-02-2016, 10:22
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Originally Posted by MGJohn View Post
I would never use a Head Saver Shim when fitting an Elastomer CHG. Only and always when fitting the MLS Gasket. Cannot remember seeing any instances of that.
That's my understanding too - only ever fitted the shim with MLS as they are usually supplied. Just though I may be missing a trick if they were tried and tested with elastomer HGs as well.

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post #70 of 204 (permalink) Old 17-02-2016, 11:01 Thread Starter
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That's my understanding too - only ever fitted the shim with MLS as they are usually supplied. Just though I may be missing a trick if they were tried and tested with elastomer HGs as well.
The only reason I can think of for fitting a saver shim with the Elastomer Head gasket would be where the Cylinder Head had been excessively skimmed. For the K-Series, various thicknesses can be ordered. About 25 quid on ebay last time I looked.

Far too much Cylinder Head skimming done when rarely necessary. I guess where those in the trade are concerned, it's an easy and quick way to clean up the head face rather than do it manually which takes time. Invoice always to include additional charge of 40-50 quid for a skim which I can get done locally for 30. Seen that many times on the Invoices that came with used cars I've purchased.

More recently, I've had three Cylinder Heads refaced on a grinder rather than a cutter. Much prefer this method now. Previously, had them cutter skimmed ~ T-Series not K-Series ~ by a local guy with a large shed in his garden. He has enough machine tools in that shed to make an F1 engine.... He does work for some tuners, engine rebuilders and even manufacturers.

Would appear Head Skimming is a compulsory knee-jerk/must do within an ever wider spread of those "in the trade" whenever a Cylinder Head gasket is renewed. Two cars I bought with expensive Skim Invoices had badly machined interfaces so the bluddy things still over heated. Then the unfortunate previous owners having spent considerable sums, decided enough is enough, so cut their losses and "get rid". The car gets the blame .... "It's a Rover" .... when invariably the real blame lays elsewhere.

My two latest MG ZT 1.8t projects with over heating problems both had excessively skimmed cylinder heads. Those U-Shaped inserts in the head's penthouse combustion chamber completely machined away. Not a sign of them :~



The U-Shaped features in the head face should look like this :~



The above image taken six years ago when my son bought a Rover 25 with the "they all do that" ... All the head face needed was a clean up, not a skim. In my limited amateur experience, those so called failed CHG cars I've repaired did not need their cylinder heads skimmed, merely cleaned up manually. Like this one on my son's Rover 25 which he still has and just popped out with it to do some shopping. This was the cleaned up head. Note both Inlet and Exhaust Manifolds still attached. My older son taught old dog me that "new trick" ... saves time and manifold gaskets not disturbed... :~


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Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......

Last edited by MGJohn; 17-02-2016 at 11:06.
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post #71 of 204 (permalink) Old 17-02-2016, 18:02 Thread Starter
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Drew a blank today.

Well made one actually. One of those little jobs which by the time you've set up all the tools and materials, best part of couple of hours gone ... in the cold too. It rained all day and is very cold. No chance to work outside. Most unpleasant weather all day and still raining.

There's an emissions gizmo on the MG6 Engine which is surplus to requirements on the MG ZT's 1.8 K-Series. Need to remove it and blank off its location. See attachment picture 1.

Three 8mm bolts and that comes away easily. There was a metal gasket used there.... looked good quality. Then, using a short length of wide Masking Tape, pressed it firmly over the location to imprint the pattern needed for the covering blank. Then, placed that on some stout aluminium alloy sheet. Drilled the two holes required for the bolts and then used a thin cutting disc in the Angle Grinder to cut it away from the sheet. Then finished it off smoothly with a worn flapper wheel in the Grinder. Final picture shows the blank in place.

Another little time consuming job completed. I had planned to clean up and fit the Dual Mass Flywheel to the MG6 engine today. No chance. Far too cold even in my garage.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0053.jpg (86.3 KB, 19 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0052.jpg (122.8 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0054.jpg (97.4 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0056.jpg (83.5 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0057.jpg (120.4 KB, 16 views)

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post #72 of 204 (permalink) Old 18-02-2016, 16:07
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Tidy job John

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post #73 of 204 (permalink) Old 18-02-2016, 18:14 Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Bit more done this sunny afternoon.

Despite having to do some family shopping and other tasks today, including cooking the family's meal ~ my choice ~ curried chicken and rice ~ I was able to find time to clean up the Dual Mass Flywheel [ DMF ] Assembly and clutch. Should not take too long. I'll use my 24 Volt Cordless Impact driver to remove those six 10mm Clutch Cover Bolts. No chance! Dead as a doornail.... Typical. Suspect worn carbon brushes... things come in threes and already resurrected two 240volt power tools with carbon brush replacement. More on this later.

So, used a socket drive and 10mm socket ... manually.

Using a wire brush in an Electric Drill, I tackled the two friction surfaces. Both came up reasonably clean but still plenty of evidence of "scuffing" on both surfaces. Not good enough so used some 180 grade wet and dry used wet with warm water. That's better as these pictures show. First the DMF :~



Then the Clutch Cover :~





Then I turned my attention to my non-runner 24 Volt Impact driver's resurrection. Soon sorted ~ deep joy :~

The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums - View Single Post - My old Crypton Battery Charger ~ Risen like the Phoenix ...

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post #74 of 204 (permalink) Old 22-02-2016, 19:45 Thread Starter
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More progress today. :|

With the K-Series 1.8t's Dual Mass Flywheel and Clutch Cover Plate all cleaned up, I set about fitting this assembly to the MG6 Engine. Stood Engine Timing End down on some stout cushions and rubber mats. Easier to visually centrally locate the Clutch Driven Plate using eyes only that way. I used a very thin smear of Copper Grease on the Crankshaft~DMF interface.



Delighted to find that the DMF located and fitted perfectly. Used Threadlock on the six 13mm Bolts.



Used a Torque Wrench set at 80nm on the six bolts :~



Belt and braces me used another Wrench at same setting as a double check. All well.



Easy to centrally locate the new MG-Rover Driven Plate :~



All done and just need smaller Torque Wrench set at only 9nm for the six Clutch Cover 10mm Bolts.





That engine is now ready to fit into the ZT-T. Before I can do that, need to do further cleaning of the engine compartment and fit the new Clutch Slave Cylinder. I will not connect that to the Master Cylinder Fluid Line until I am sure the engine is up and running OK.

Need to collect my engine crane from my store.

Getting there ... ever so slowly ... ...

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post #75 of 204 (permalink) Old 25-02-2016, 18:05 Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Several jobs on the ZT-T done today. #1

Time well spent today. First thing was to collect my Engine Crane from the store about a mile away. Need that as could slot the engine in tomorrow all being well.

So, got the new Clutch Slave Cylinder ready to fit and so pulled the bonnet release. Uh-Oh ..... Release Lever VERY stiff! Not good. However, it did open. Last thing I need is for the Nipples on the Bowden Cables to become detached by heavy handed treatment needed on the lever. So, got some In-Force Penetrating Fluid and sprayed that over the twin Bonnet Locks on the Slam Panel and the spring loaded locating pins in the Bonnet itself. It's good stuff and I allowed it to soak in and then wiped clean. I doubt they've been lubricated since leaving Longbridge. The old lubricant had solidified over time.

Wiped all four Locking Components clean and lubricated all their moving parts with some fresh LM Grease. Tested the locks by wedging the release lever with a length of wood and checked they had fully withdrawn. They had. Worked the lever back and forth several times and was pleased it was much smoother now. Close the bonnet and pulled the lever. Bonnet sprung open with a satisfying "healthy" sound. Checked it a few more times and was confident all was as it should be. A little TLC can make things so much better. Had a Bonnet release come undone on my ZT saloon and that was a pain. Drove around for a few days unable to open the bonnet. Not an easy fix. Do not want a repeat ...

It's the little annoying jobs like these which slow progress but, have to be done and result in a nicer car to live with.

For those interested, the attached images show what was done.

Can now deal with the fitment of the Clutch Slave Cylinder. Still time today.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Holding Bonnet Release Open with small length of wood.jpg (178.9 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg Bonnet Locking Mechanism working check. 1.jpg (119.0 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg Bonnet Locking Mechanism working check. 2.jpg (124.9 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg Cleaned up and greased spring bonnet locking retainer.jpg (107.8 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg Castrol LM Grease.jpg (116.4 KB, 9 views)

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post #76 of 204 (permalink) Old 25-02-2016, 19:18 Thread Starter
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Several jobs on the ZT-T done today. #2

Fitting the new Slave Cylinder. Not as easy as removing the original. Original had more flexible rubber (?) hoses whilst replacement hoses are less flexible metal.

Signs of rust between the splines on the Gearbox Input Shaft. Used a smear or two of LM Grease on the splines, working it in using the old Clutch Driven plate. Then wiped away any traces of grease excess.

I found fitting the Slave assembly with it's less flexible hose tubes almost difficult. I now wonder if it would be better to have removed the two hoses by releasing their split pins, fitting the Slave over the Input Shaft and then refitting the hoses and their split pin retainers. I'll have a play with the old Slave when time allows. May learn something.

Fitting the Rubber Grommet in the hole in the top of the Bell Housing was not difficult.

Then I remembered my son telling me he had damaged the four wires at the top of the O2 Sensor badly when removing the half engine. Better do that next .. see next post ...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg New ZT Slave Cylinder and cuppa.jpg (118.4 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg Cleaned up using smears of LM Grease.jpg (192.9 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg Using the Old Clutch Driven Plate to check Input shaft's splines are smooth.jpg (191.0 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg Slave Cylinder in place on Input Shaft.jpg (189.9 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg Close up of Slave's hydraulic hoses.jpg (205.4 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg Slave's Grommet in place.jpg (146.3 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg Close view inside Bell Housing showing Slave Cylinder in place.jpg (176.1 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg Slave's hydraulic hoses.jpg (158.6 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg General View of Slave's Hoses in place.jpg (185.6 KB, 10 views)

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post #77 of 204 (permalink) Old 25-02-2016, 19:23 Thread Starter
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Several jobs on the ZT-T done today. #3

Located my hefty 22mm Ring and open ended spanner. I have a 22mm Crows Foot Socket which may be more effective but will try the spanner first. The Sensor was silly tight as is usually the case. About to give up when one last shove on the spanner started the sensor to move. Gave it a blast with the excellent In-Force Penetrating fluid and then it came out rather more easily. Looking at the four damaged wires at the top I suspect by carefully repairing it will still work. I have a good spare or two "somewhere" in my garage. Quicker to locate one of those than repair the damaged one. Attached images tell the story.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Close up of damaged wiring on O2 Sensor. 2.jpg (129.0 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg Close up of damaged wiring on O2 Sensor. 1.jpg (164.2 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg O2 Sensor removed with 22mm Spanner.jpg (144.7 KB, 9 views)

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post #78 of 204 (permalink) Old 26-02-2016, 12:02 Thread Starter
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MG6 Engine ~ MG-Rover 1.8t K Series Gearbox Interface Checks.

Really glad I did these checks. Had I not done so and offered the MG6 Engine to the Gearbox, I would not be able to mate them because too many locating dowels.

Here in this image of the MG-R Gearbox, you can clearly see TWO slightly rusted locating dowels. :~



Viewed from above clearly shows the lightly corroded dowels. :~



Here in this image the opposing locating dowels in the MG6 engine are also present. :~



Clearly four into two will not go. Would have been very annoyed discovering that with the MG6 Engine lowered into the engine the engine compartment.

Then checked the original 1.8t K-Series Engine to see both corresponding locating dowel sites vacant... that as it should be.



So, which ones to remove. The easier to access still new and shiny ones in the MG6 engine, or the corroded ones in the Gearbox which will be more difficult to remove owing to access limitations and no doubt, unseen corrosion. Even so, I think I'll remove the ones in the gearbox.

Which pair would you chose to remove?...

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post #79 of 204 (permalink) Old 26-02-2016, 13:07
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No choice really John. Last thing I would want is trying to locate rusty dowels into the gearbox once the engine was lowered.
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post #80 of 204 (permalink) Old 26-02-2016, 13:47 Thread Starter
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Quote:
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No choice really John. Last thing I would want is trying to locate rusty dowels into the gearbox once the engine was lowered.
I have since given both rusty dowels a quick blast with In-Force Penetrating Fluid prior to their removal. Within a few seconds, they looked like new. Good stuff that In-Force. They'll still be coming out.

Earlier I got the Engine Crane partially reassembled prior to putting the ZT-T on axle stands so that with wheels removed, I can move and position the suspended engine precisely. Guess what, the Sun soon disappeared behind big black clouds and .... Hail Stones bouncing all over the shop! It's a sign ... I can take a hint .....

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