My new project arrives .. A Mk11 MG ZXT-T 1.8t. - Page 5 - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #81 of 203 (permalink) Old 26-02-2016, 14:11 Thread Starter
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On the subject on MG6 Engine MG-R 1.8t ZT Gearbox compatibility, I double checked further looking at the MG6 bare engine images before flywheel fitting. Here it is :~

MG6


and here is the MG-Rover Engine view in the same way showing identical locations and other features. The engine and gearbox should align and mate perfectly :~

MG-Rover 1.8t


Still cold and raining so nothing more done today. May go into the garage and sort out all the bolts, mounts and other fittings. I was pleased my older son removed the original 1/2 engine for me. However, the downside of that being I did not see what bolts came from where. Best way to learn these things is real time "hands on" I feel. My son is keen to get the ZT-T up and running but, no way am I hurrying things. I want it done right no matter how long it takes. Even so, pleased with the slow progress to date and, weather permitting, things should progress faster now.

Oh yes, need to check my store boxes for an O2 sensor as the wiring on the original was damaged during engine removal.

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post #82 of 203 (permalink) Old 27-02-2016, 17:57 Thread Starter
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Tied up a few time consuming loose ends on the ZT-T today but, had a small disappointment. I located my small stash of O2 sensors and was pleased to see two had the same connector as the slight damaged ( wiring ) of the original that came with the car. The connectors would not ... connect. Looking inside each I saw the reason why. There are several locating "keyways" which were different although externally the rest of the assembly and wiring looked identical. Tempted to swap the connectors but, as no hurry, next visit to the breaker yard may provide the one I need.

I previously mentioned my son removed the half engine. He collected the many bolts and several mounts and brackets. I have no idea what bolts go where although the bracket locations are fairly obvious. Anyway, did a little research on bolt sizes and lengths and do not think it will be a big problem, just needs a little more time.

When finished and trying to lock the car, nothing doing. No interior light either. The Instruments barely showing anything when switched on ~ only the AirBag icon glowed dimly, nothing else. Took the battery off and replaced it with a good used one. Operation fully restored and put the weak battery ( now showing 7 volts ) on charge. With door and hatch open most of the time, that meant interior lights reduced battery power. Pleased to see old battery taking a charge nicely.

I also showed my son how to check, clean and set the contact breaker points on his 1982 MG Metro which he wants to take up to the NEC next week. Running rough and lumpy. Difficult to start when hot too.

Cleaned Spark Plugs and after giving the little used car's Distributor, Rotor Arm and Contact Breaker Points ( What's those Dad? ... ) a little TLC, the MG's A-Series burst into life immediately.

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post #83 of 203 (permalink) Old 27-02-2016, 18:49
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I'm stacking up a few jobs for the spring when it's a bit warmer.

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post #84 of 203 (permalink) Old 29-02-2016, 12:34
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I also showed my son how to check, clean and set the contact breaker points on his 1982 MG Metro which he wants to take up to the NEC next week. Running rough and lumpy. Difficult to start when hot too.

Cleaned Spark Plugs and after giving the little used car's Distributor, Rotor Arm and Contact Breaker Points ( What's those Dad? ... ) a little TLC, the MG's A-Series burst into life immediately.
I converted to electronic ignition on my B-series engine in my Morris Oxford -68. It ran OK before, but what a difference after converting to electronic ignition!! Idle and cold start was much better and smoother. The kit costed somthing like 25 and was a direct fit under the distributor cap. Except for one extra wire between the distributor and coil, no one could see that mine has been converted. A greatly recommended upgrade for everyone with a classic car
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post #85 of 203 (permalink) Old 29-02-2016, 12:56 Thread Starter
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I converted to electronic ignition on my B-series engine in my Morris Oxford -68. It ran OK before, but what a difference after converting to electronic ignition!! Idle and cold start was much better and smoother. The kit costed somthing like 25 and was a direct fit under the distributor cap. Except for one extra wire between the distributor and coil, no one could see that mine has been converted. A greatly recommended upgrade for everyone with a classic car
Thanks for that. My son posted this on FB ~ me on my knees showing him "how to" which he videod on his mobile.

FB Post ~ Adjusting Contact Breaker

Getting dark and it was so cold in the late afternoon but, needs must. As a result of that posting, several FB folks recommended that electronic upgrade. If it retains the original looks, that's the way to go.

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post #86 of 203 (permalink) Old 29-02-2016, 19:45 Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Worked on two MG ZTs today.

Good progress on the project MG ZT-T.

Firstly, as my Anthracite project MG ZT 1.8t saloon had not been moved for the best part of a year, I noticed two of the tyres had lost air pressure. So, unable to use the car on the road, wheels had to come off. Jacked up one side of the car at the rear sill jacking pad point. Impressed by the body rigidity ~ note both wheels well clear of the ground. Used my electric 12v tyre pump connected to my Rover 620ti's cigar lighter. Put 40psi in each ~ should help preserve tyre sidewall integrity.



Then moved my attention to the MG ZT-T. Needed to get the front of the car up sufficiently to enable the engine crane to move freely when fitting the MG6 engine. With limited DIYer facilities and working in the cold, this job and the previous one took over two hours. Glad it's up on Axle Stands now.



With no engine weight to worry about, I used this point on the front cross member to raise the car to allow the two front Jacking Point Pads to rest on the Axle Stands. Will have to check if that can be used with the extra weight when the engine is installed.



Doubt I'll be able to do much tomorrow as I have to collect a large chair my other half won on ebay. Hundred mile round trip. I shall use my son's Rover 25 as being a hatch, with the rear seats folded down the big chair should fit OK.

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post #87 of 203 (permalink) Old 29-02-2016, 21:15
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John with regards the picture above, its should be able to support being jacked up there with engine and gearbox, i have used this point on the subframe quite often to jack up the front end of a 75 or ZT, sometimes with a lot a vehicles in our workshop it's nice, quick and easy, i always support on axle stand on the the jack pads though, lernt my lesson a good few years ago now; how qucick a trolley jack can let go if the seal fails, will not do that again.

If only our apprentice would take notice though, he will quite often go under vehicles that are just on trolley jacks; i swaer some youngsters think they are invincable.
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post #88 of 203 (permalink) Old 29-02-2016, 21:49 Thread Starter
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Cool

Thanks for that confirmation Julian. It does look like a substantial Jacking Point. I will use it when the engine is installed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Julian.heap View Post
John with regards the picture above, its should be able to support being jacked up there with engine and gearbox, i have used this point on the subframe quite often to jack up the front end of a 75 or ZT, sometimes with a lot a vehicles in our workshop it's nice, quick and easy, i always support on axle stand on the the jack pads though, lernt my lesson a good few years ago now; how qucick a trolley jack can let go if the seal fails, will not do that again.
Wise words Julian. The red ZT-T is supported on both sides with axle stands on the Jacking Point Pads. Both front pads were missing on the car. I picked up a set on a previous visit to a local breaker yard. Things like that always come in handy.

I have three trolley jacks acquired over the years. Yes, the oldest does very slowly let go and lowers. I'll fix it ... one day..

I had a seal go on my pro-spec 3 tonner a few years ago. Fortunately NOT when used to hoist a car. It simply would not Jack-up next time I tried to use it. It's the one I use most frequently as it has a useful low entry facility. Not sure what to do, I removed its worn seal and took it along to a Hydraulics specialist on Innsworth Technology Industrial Estate on the outskirts of Gloucester. They looked through their store of seals and came up with a couple of new ones the same dimensions ... 11 pence each. Jack good as gold ever since. Now I'm an Hydraulics engineer ..

Quote:
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If only our apprentice would take notice though, he will quite often go under vehicles that are just on trolley jacks; i swear some youngsters think they are invincible.
When I was young I believed I would live forever... yes, invincible...

More seriously, many moons ago, I read a sickening report of a mother taking a cup of tea out to her son working on his car. Found son crushed to death... OK a million to one chance but ensure you're not that one!

ALWAYS take the little extra time to work in a safe environment. Axle stands and wheel chocks. Drop your guard for just as second ... that's all it takes.

For a year or so now, my favourite car breakers I first visited with my father as a junior schoolboy back in the early 1950s now does not allow folks to jack up cars themselves. Must ask staff to do it for you. On two occasions whilst I was there in the past ten years, I worked closeby and popped in at least once a week, an Ambulance has been called for someone working on the scrap cars.

It is a well run yard and if you need to work under a car, they will prepare a safe environment for you. I wanted some gear linkage off a Rover 600 a few years back. They put the car on this purpose built trestle ... Luxury ..


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post #89 of 203 (permalink) Old 01-03-2016, 06:06
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Thanks for that. My son posted this on FB ~ me on my knees showing him "how to" which he videod on his mobile.

FB Post ~ Adjusting Contact Breaker

Getting dark and it was so cold in the late afternoon but, needs must. As a result of that posting, several FB folks recommended that electronic upgrade. If it retains the original looks, that's the way to go.
Hi John,

This is just going a bit off-topic, but classics is important too

Just a few pictures of my electronic conversion:



The contact breaker and condenser was removed and replaced with a magnet ring on the distributor shaft and a sensor fitted in the place for the contact beaker. Only an extra wire was needed between the distributor and the coils positive (+) terminal. My Morris was converted to negative earth sometime in the last century, so the kit fitted easily. Its a bigger challenge to find a suitable kit if you have positive earth.

I bought the kit from Powerspark: Electronic Ignition kit Powerspark Lucas Bosch 45D 25D 35D 22D

Regarding your ZT, keep up the good work
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post #90 of 203 (permalink) Old 01-03-2016, 07:40
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Just to add to the "don't go under an unsupported vehicle theme".
A JCB driver thought it would be a good idea to place his digger bucket on the top of the Porta Loo to stop the kids from moving it. The next morning though it had moved!
Downwards towards the ground when the seals leaked overnight and the bucket crushed it.
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post #91 of 203 (permalink) Old 01-03-2016, 10:06 Thread Starter
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Thanks for that informative post with pictures Bienet1. Looks a simple upgrade.

Very helpful. I'll alert my son.

Continuous heavy rain this morning. Doubt I'll get anything done on the car today.

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post #92 of 203 (permalink) Old 01-03-2016, 16:33
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Interesting blurb on the jack - I've got and old trolley jack that struggles to lift under load. Though it is temperamental and sometimes does! Does this sound like a seal? I've topped up the oil and run through the bleeding procedure to no avail. I've got a new one, but if a few pence on seals will fix the old one...

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post #93 of 203 (permalink) Old 01-03-2016, 18:54 Thread Starter
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It's certainly worth a try. Look closely to see where if any, the fluid is being lost. It was obvious with my 3 ton Low Entry Trolley Jack. Note the filth adhering to the leaked fluid around the Hydraulic Pump Shaft ~ the bright metal shaft to the left in this picture.



The fluid was passing the seal in the pump.

Before deciding to consign to the scrap metal bin, decided to have a look. Nothing to loose. I'd still have a useless Jack ... or not.

I part dismantled the Pump's Lever Assembly and that enabled me to pull out that shaft which is also the Pump/Piston. Looked into its cylinder bore to see a seal in a groove in the cylinder not looking too good. Used some fine forceps to tease it out and took that along to the Hydraulic Specialist.

22p for two seals. Fitted one with fresh fluid and bled my 3 ton Jack. Result now fully restored to operating condition. So pleased I part dismantled the major components washed and cleaned them all up. Painted the tatty bits including the large diameter white lift head. Not only did I have a fully operational Jack again, but it looked like new... Bonus and several years later, still working well.

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post #94 of 203 (permalink) Old 01-03-2016, 18:58
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May give it a try. Mine has a big central cylinder so ill have to work out how to get it apart.

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post #95 of 203 (permalink) Old 01-03-2016, 19:02
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Quote:
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Interesting blurb on the jack - I've got and old trolley jack that struggles to lift under load. Though it is temperamental and sometimes does! Does this sound like a seal? I've topped up the oil and run through the bleeding procedure to no avail. I've got a new one, but if a few pence on seals will fix the old one...
Does sound like a weeping or worn seal. my beam jack on my MOT ramp has a worn seal, every time the ramp guys come to to inspect the ramps ( us halfords autocentre's have to have it every 3-6 months to comply with health and safety) i tell the them, they just top it up and bleed it. one day i will get a new beam jack.
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post #96 of 203 (permalink) Old 01-03-2016, 19:05 Thread Starter
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May give it a try. Mine has a big central cylinder so ill have to work out how to get it apart.
The worn Seal was not the one in the BIG lift cylinder, it was the one in the small hydraulic pump which pressurises the BIG cylinder to raise the lift.

All my Trolley Jacks have a small pump cylinder. That little seal takes a beating every time you Jack up a heavy vehicle. The BIG seals in the main lift cylinder are far less stressed. Check the small lift pump seal(s)*** first ~ there's probably an exploded diagram of your Jack somewhere on the web. That will help when you decide to investigate.

***

The two Jacks I have serviced now only had one seal in the small pump cylinder.

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post #97 of 203 (permalink) Old 02-03-2016, 18:13 Thread Starter
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Bolts and Dowels.

Had hoped to install the MG6 engine today. Fat chance. Strong winds and near horizontal rain most of the morning meant nothing done to the ZT-T. Anyway, our Vaillant boiler played up from 5 pm Monday night leaving a cold house although I manged to get it going about midnight. By then we had arranged for someone to come and check it. 08.30 today the travelling engineer arrived and gave it a thorough checkover leaving about 10.00. I was impressed with the care and attention he showed and he pointed out one of two things to look out for in future. Then boiler is working better than ever now and we have a warm house.

The rain eventually eased and stopped although the silly strong winds were still blowing. It's recycling bin collection today and several houses had theirs blown away all over the shop. I always weigh mine down on a been there done that basis. The collection Guys must have cleared up after because apart from a big Pizza box wedged under the wheel of my son's Rover 25, no sign of any other rubbish ... or it was long since blown away.

At last weather improved mid-afternoon so I was able to check the various bolts and where they might go on the MG6 Engine ~ MG ZT-T Gearbox Interface. These are they ~ there's a lot...



Some were quite obvious like the right side major engine mount and some of the lower mounts I am familiar with. However the actual gearbox engine bolts I examined and offered up to both engine and gearbox and could then see what went where for most of them. When my son removed the engine ( he's very keen to see this car up and running ~ the impatience of youth ... ) he put all the bolts in one box. He kept the starter bolts with the starter. The rest all into one box. So as I had not removed any of those bolts, not much idea what went where.

Having done all that, tried to remove the old locating dowels from the gearbox. Would need to destroy them to do that despite soaking of good penetrating fluid. So used that In-Force fluid on the still clean corrosion free ones on the MG6 Engine. Using the Mole Grips, working the dowel around back and forth, both eventually were loosened enough to come out. I'll use some 180 Grade wet and dry on the lightly corroded old ones in the gearbox to clean them up to reduce the chances of fitment problems. Here's the stuff I used and the close to fifty year old Mole Grips given to me many moons age. They were not new then.



Onoing and getting ever closer to seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. Good eh.
.

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post #98 of 203 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 16:59 Thread Starter
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Another day with precious little time to spend on the car.

I did manage to rub the light corrosion from their paintless areas and then paint those mild steel engine mounts. Looked like new. That will enable them to live on much longer. They are after all already thirteen years old.

I have sorted all the various mounts, brackets and bolts arranging them ready for when needed to mount the engine. I plan to do that tomorrow as everything is now ready. It's all down to the weather Gods now. Colder with snow in some areas forecast....

Sometimes I think the whole Universe is against me....

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post #99 of 203 (permalink) Old 04-03-2016, 23:14 Thread Starter
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I cannot believe the unplanned series of distractions which kept me away from the project today. Still it did try to snow a lot this afternoon and that turned to sleet so not ideal. So not much time lost.

Trawling my Pictures Library, came across these images of the "donor" MG6 visiting a few months before it's unfortunate demise.



General view of engine compartment with engine cover removed. Note the Coolant Expansion Bottle where the coolant level can be clearly seen, unlike the opaque item on the MG ZT and Rover 75s. :~



Closer view of engine with cover removed. Note the Fly By Wire ( FBW ) Throttle Body and the Emissions Gizmo just above the Exhaust manifold. :~


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post #100 of 203 (permalink) Old 06-03-2016, 10:15 Thread Starter
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I spotted someone breaking an MG6 1.8t up in Birmingham. May ask about and how much they want for the MG6 1.8t engine unit. May be worth a punt.

Ebay item :~

281955322236

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