Remote key fobs will not unlock drivers door - MG-Rover.org Forums
 
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 27-06-2006, 19:29 Thread Starter
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Question Remote key fobs will not unlock drivers door

I have a problem with central locking on my 2002 Rover 75 Tourer. I inadvertently opened drivers door with key instead of using remote. Since then I am unable to open drivers door unless I use key. Remote will lock all doors, and will also unlock every door except for the drivers door. Rover dealer says that it may need resynchronising. I have tried all methods of resynchronising suggested in forum, pressing key fob 20 times etc, but no joy. Has any one else had this problem and found a solution. Its most annoying.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 27-06-2006, 19:38
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If the other doors are unlocking normally, then the remote is working.

Do you have a lock/ unlock button in your car? Does this work?

The most likely fault is a damaged locking mechanism in the drivers door.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 28-05-2010, 11:21
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I also have this problem and have tried quite a few things.

The driver's door keeps locking with the rest of them but just won't unlock. The central locking stopped working so I replaced all the blown fuses - It started working again but the driver's door won't lock - My instincts tell me it's not the lock mechanism.

Anyone have any ideas?

Samhood - did you manage to fix this?
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 28-05-2010, 13:21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samhoods View Post
I have a problem with central locking on my 2002 Rover 75 Tourer. I inadvertently opened drivers door with key instead of using remote. Since then I am unable to open drivers door unless I use key. Remote will lock all doors, and will also unlock every door except for the drivers door. Rover dealer says that it may need resynchronising. I have tried all methods of resynchronising suggested in forum, pressing key fob 20 times etc, but no joy. Has any one else had this problem and found a solution. Its most annoying.

Hiya, i have the same problem on mine. The drivers door has been like it ever since i got the car back from a monkey of a so called mechanic. Now i find that the passenger door has now stopped working just 2 days ago. They will lock with the fob, but not unlock. The two doors will also not lock with the 4mph speed locking. very annoying.! Poppy.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 28-05-2010, 14:42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poppy View Post
Hiya, i have the same problem on mine. The drivers door has been like it ever since i got the car back from a monkey of a so called mechanic. Now i find that the passenger door has now stopped working just 2 days ago. They will lock with the fob, but not unlock. The two doors will also not lock with the 4mph speed locking. very annoying.! Poppy.
hi,.

if its not the above, then theres a possibility it is a dodgy door latch assembly or actuator... dont think theres a problem with the system itself otherwise the back doors wouldnt be working... which they are, the system doesnt appear to be as complicated as some newer cars which have an actual module in each door.. but these cars dont appear to have that looking through the wiring diagram.

so if it was any kind of serious electrical problem all doors wouldnt work, passenger door and 2 rears are linked together.. so if it was any kind of problem with the BCU it would knock the 2 rear doors out as well, and drivers door operates on an independant circuit because it has the microswitches in the door lock barrel.

so whatever the problem is, its likely to be local to the drivers door, and passenger door.
Also because they are the most used doors, its more likely to point towards a worn latch mechanism.

in the case of your problem poppy, I dont think the problem with the 2 doors is related.. drivers door went first because its the most used, then passenger door after because its less used.. backs are ok because they are probably used even less.

They do go, ive had to change 1 before on a rover 200, in that case it was other way around, door wouldnt lock properly so the alarm kept going off, and when i pulled the door latch mechanism out, there was alot of play in the part of the mechanism connected to the actuator.. so it was effectively jamming up, stopping it from properly locking.

only way to identify them problems would be to pull the door card off and see whats going on inside there.

Will keep investigating and post any more findings.
at the moment im just theorising to try and find a logical explanation. lol.. so i could be completely wrong... but worth checking though none the less!

Last edited by Click4; 29-05-2010 at 12:14.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 28-05-2010, 17:10
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It's the latches they need to be replaced, buy landrover ones they are cheaper

TS Autos - I do everything apart from paint and bodywork, I excel in trim, mechanical and electrical faults on all models, but know ZT/75's every nut and bolt quite literally. Please PM me if you need a part or work doing to your car! location as requested Midlands Area DY8 1XQ
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 28-05-2010, 19:44
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Smile Rover 75 Divers Door wont unlock with remote

Hi
I had this problem last month. Tried all the known remedies. Solution was quite simple. Squirted some electrical contact cleaner into the Drivers Door Barrel. Might take a little while to work through but cured the problem.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 29-05-2010, 08:14
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Re post 5 opening paragraph~~. Before anyone starts stripping their key/door barrels they do not have any micro switches in them or near them everything is within the door latches itself

TS Autos - I do everything apart from paint and bodywork, I excel in trim, mechanical and electrical faults on all models, but know ZT/75's every nut and bolt quite literally. Please PM me if you need a part or work doing to your car! location as requested Midlands Area DY8 1XQ
www.tsautos.com
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 29-05-2010, 11:34
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Originally Posted by ts autos View Post
It's the latches they need to be replaced, buy landrover ones they are cheaper

Hiya Terry. Just the actual latch you mean.? How do you access it and how much are they.? Poppy.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 29-05-2010, 12:15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ts autos View Post
Re post 5 opening paragraph~~. Before anyone starts stripping their key/door barrels they do not have any micro switches in them or near them everything is within the door latches itself

removed that bit now, lol

i did say latches though, dont think its any kind of electrical problem itself.. but wrote those as possibilities.
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 29-05-2010, 16:42
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I reckon the motor in the latches is burned out - the drivers door is usually the first to go as it's used the most. You have to replace the whole latch mechanism - cost approx £80 from Rimmers however I remember someone on ebay selling them brand new and half that price but typically I can't find the seller when I need it.

I bought a brand new drivers latch from Rimmers earlier this year and fitted it myself - it's actually quite easy but just a bit fiddly. Small hands, a comfy cushion and lots of patience is needed.

See link to my post below with pics (although some of them have dissapeared from the hosting site grrrrrrrr). If anyone needs advice pls give me a shout.

Guide to removing drivers door lock solenoid
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 31-01-2011, 20:59
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Drivers Door Locking assembly dismantled

Yesterday, I removed and successfully dismantled my drivers door locking mechanism.

The symptoms were all doors lock, just drivers door won"t unlock with the Blipper, (Unlocks fine manually with the Key).

On disassembly of the mechanism, there are two small DC electric motors, one for locking, one for unlocking!

I noticed the latch spring seemed sluggish even after cleaning with WD drying and re-greasing, reason... crap Bosch design.

Bye the bye.. The unlock motor field coil was burned out,or slip rings/ brushes whatever. I confirmed this by checking coil resistance against the locking motor.

The upshot, a new mechanism is required. End Of!

It was a fiddle but I got it all back in working order, (Except for obvious unlock motor fault) in time for my wife's baby shower party outing!
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 31-01-2011, 21:07
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparkyman View Post
Yesterday, I removed and successfully dismantled my drivers door locking mechanism.

The symptoms were all doors lock, just drivers door won"t unlock with the Blipper, (Unlocks fine manually with the Key).

On disassembly of the mechanism, there are two small DC electric motors, one for locking, one for unlocking!

I noticed the latch spring seemed sluggish even after cleaning with WD drying and re-greasing, reason... crap Bosch design.

Bye the bye.. The unlock motor field coil was burned out,or slip rings/ brushes whatever. I confirmed this by checking coil resistance against the locking motor.

The upshot, a new mechanism is required. End Of!

It was a fiddle but I got it all back in working order, (Except for obvious unlock motor fault) in time for my wife's baby shower party outing!
Hiya. Same problem.... Just replaced mine with another lock/accuator off eBay... Cost me £10 brand new.... Lucky or what... lol. Poppy
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 21-03-2011, 17:44
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My turn today!

Drivers door......locks but won't unlock. Off to ebay...again!
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 21-03-2011, 18:53
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Yeah, I have this annoying problem too. Grrrrr.
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 28-03-2011, 17:58
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Question driver's door wouldn't open

It just stopped working today. how difficult is it to open up and access the door latch? what tools will i need? thanks
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 28-03-2011, 18:48
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Originally Posted by gozmani View Post
It just stopped working today. how difficult is it to open up and access the door latch? what tools will i need? thanks
Hiya. No special tools... Just popout the electric window switch with a flat blade,unplug it.... undo the screw in the center of the iterior door handle and push the handle through the hole... then remove the door card. Start at the side and carefully unpop the poppers. Carry on round to the other side then carefully unhitch the top of the panel.When you have done this, hold the center handle and gently pull upwards to release the center clip...... The panel will now come away.... Usually the center clip will remain on the door.. Replace this on the panel before refixing.... It literally is only a 5 minute job... Just take your time so as not to break any of the plastic fixings... I have done mine several times, in fact only today to fit rear tweeters.. Never broke anything yet..lol
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