For some, like me, there's no known cure. - Page 2 - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #21 of 72 (permalink) Old 11-01-2017, 16:07
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John, John, John, John, John, John, John, you just can't keep it in your trousers can you?! (Your wallet, I mean, obviously!) Still, another one saved, so well done.

How's KX54 coming along?
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post #22 of 72 (permalink) Old 21-02-2017, 20:21 Thread Starter
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Thumbs up

Only just seen these... Hence tardy response ...whatever happened to notifications? About to update thread on a little progress and spotted these latest posts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JensenHealey View Post
John, John, John, John, John, John, John, you just can't keep it in your trousers can you?! (Your wallet, I mean, obviously!) Still, another one saved, so well done.

How's KX54 coming along?
Haha ... so true. I can resist anything but temptation..

These nicer MG ZT "project" cars have bottomed out in value now and such opportunities will not be around in a few years maybe sooner. I currently have a couple of ZTs in daily use... @ 270 pa VED ( probably go up in a few weeks ) KX54 is on the back burner until I clear the decks. Just a few simple jobs to do on it but, 270 takes some finding so it's on SORN.

Will sort it when the warmer weather and lighter evenings are here. The garden daffodils are popping up and will flower soon. Love the early spring. Cheltenham Races... start of Flat Racing and Formula 1 seasons and nicer conditions to play with the cars.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lovel View Post
Oh how I wish I could share a pint with you sometime to compare notes. Alas being at the other end of the country it will likely never happen, however here's my take on jubilee clips.

The jubilee clips are prone to collapse the unsupported plastic t-piece, because they do not grip evenly and the plastic stub soon ends up egged with heat or even worse collapses with too much pressure applied. You would be better going back to the scrappy and also collecting some of that spring type of clips which give an even clamping force. There are a few spring clips fitted to a KV6 that will fit.


This is the reason folks end up cursing the original plastic t-piece and buy an alloy t-piece instead because during the life of the car the original swaged pips clips loose their tension and start to leak, the clips also cut into the easily cut turbo hoses leading to leaks. some folks cut a little bit off and fit them with a jubilee clip only to find them leaking again. If decent spring clips and a light touch are used you will not have an issue with the plastic t-piece.

Having spent the whole weekend on sons ZS180 doing the timing belts and finding all sorts of leaks. I found the dreaded jubilee clip bodger had been at it on plastic housings too and had collapsed the pipe.

Jubliee clips work well on older cars which are mainly fitted with metal stubs but if you use them on plastic you are asking for a problem if you cant control the tightness of the jubilee clip.

Some plastic stubs have metal inserts where the jubilee clip will work fine such as the intercooler hose on the turbo models. MG Rover in their wisdom unfortunately decided to omit inner metal sleeves from the plastic connection for one reason or another to the detriment of the vehicles life if some heavy handed person sets to the car.
Haha.. you're norf of da buddr ... so that's like foreigner territory to us Southerners... More seriously, if you're ever in these parts and have time to pop by for a chat and a cuppa, please get in touch. Over the years I have met many MG and Rover enthusiasts and always enjoy sharing experiences about a common interest. I take pictures of the cars of every visitor. Now well over one hundred. My older son also has many young MG and Rover enthusiast friends and he often had visitors, including one from as far away as New Zealand who keeps and MG Midget here for visits. :~



Note Kiwi on the Door....

================

Now to your post.

Thanks for that comprehensive reply about the hoses and clips etc..

With what you explain already in mind, I have already collected a small tub of those constant pressure hose clips from scrapyard visits. I have also bought the correct tool to compress and fit/remove them. Prior to getting that tool, I did not like the things. Now I do... old dog, new tricks myth buster... ... and have ordered THREE Alloy 1.8t Coolant T-Pieces. Have already fitted one. So those plastic jobbies will soon be a thing of the past.

I worked on this car briefly today as the weather had improved and so did the light. Watch the next thread update on this project car I will prepare soon with illustrations. Work was slowed and delayed as I came across three heavy handed bodges. In previous ownership large Invoices were for the professional work on this car. I half anticipated this in view of how silly tight that 22mm Crankshaft Pulley Bolt was. So unnecessary ...All very sad.

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #23 of 72 (permalink) Old 21-02-2017, 20:53 Thread Starter
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Thumbs down There's more ... progress update.

Not touched this car for a couple of weeks.

Bit disappointed with the little work today. Here's why.

Made a start on Cylinder Head removal which soon revealed some heavy handed treatment. Two of the 8mm Bolts which fasten the Ignition Coli Packs had been overtightened. Cue soft alloy threads destroyed. .. :~



and the other one too :~



Next work to remove the four Spark Plugs and with the stripped threads above in mind, I was anticipating more of the same. Plugs 1,2 and 3 came out smoothly as you would expect but Spark Plug in Cylinder No. 4 was silly tight. I had to use this Breaker Bar vigorously and carefully until it came out. :~



Here's that Spark Plug :~



There's another bodge. The HT lead held against the alloy Camshaft Cover and the Electrical Loom which should be there loosely nearby. :~



So that's three stripped threads which will need attention... Helicoil if not too far gone. Will know more when head is removed. I hope I find no more heavy handed treatment. That massive Invoice for the pro-work done on this car still fresh in my mind.

However, not all bad news to report, all that possible Head Repair Work or scrap it decisions can wait. Meantime I have two K-Series Cylinder Heads refurbished on standby all ready to fit... Be prepared as the old saying goes.

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #24 of 72 (permalink) Old 21-02-2017, 21:16
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Hi John
been reading a lot of your stuff tonight, really good and interesting stuff
and I wonder if you can help me with my problem, I've been doing a CHG on my Rover 25 and now trying to install new valves, got the old ones out easily by the hammer way, I have now bought my second spring compressor to install them but none of them worked, could you recommend one that will suit the job, been of road from before Christmas as poor weather not allowing me much time to work on it, and getting some agro indoors,
HELP!
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post #25 of 72 (permalink) Old 21-02-2017, 21:31 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moirasrevor View Post
Hi John
been reading a lot of your stuff tonight, really good and interesting stuff
and I wonder if you can help me with my problem, I've been doing a CHG on my Rover 25 and now trying to install new valves, got the old ones out easily by the hammer way, I have now bought my second spring compressor to install them but none of them worked, could you recommend one that will suit the job, been of road from before Christmas as poor weather not allowing me much time to work on it, and getting some agro indoors,
HELP!
'er indoors? ...

Yes, accessing the valve springs with a compressor is sometimes difficult on the little K-series. I have two Compressors, one works fine on the restricted reach access of the K-Series but the other does not. I will take a picture of it sometime soon so you can see which one works and search your local Machine Mart or w.h.y. to find one to suit. It has two reversible ends which fits various valve cap sizes.

Here's a tip for you are anyone working on these cars.

By the way, if you have a local "remove it yourself" car breaker yard ( like wot I do ... ... ); good used Rover/MG K-Series Cylinder heads can be picked up relatively cheaply. Get one and prepare it ready to fit. Because traders no longer see these cars as "nice little earners", mainly due to trading constraints, perfectly good cars taken in part exchange are driven straight round to the breakers now. In my favourite local breakers, I removed a cylinder head from a Rover 75 1.8 turbo which according to the VOSA MoT records, had only done 39,000 miles. I also got the Turbocharger and other useful bits. They will come in handy one day ... they always do for me or someone needing parts for their cars.

Then sort out the original Head and keep as a good spare or sell it.

Helps to keep the cost of motoring down.

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #26 of 72 (permalink) Old 22-02-2017, 05:20
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Removing K-series Cylinder heads for spare to have in need is something I can advise as well as I am doing it too. I have spare cylinder head for my 8 valve k-series engine.
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post #27 of 72 (permalink) Old 24-02-2017, 18:22 Thread Starter
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Cool Best sunshine of the year today.

Took advantage of the superb sunshine and mostly clear blue skies for three hours working on the car. Progress is slow removing the Cylinder Head due to numerous reasons, mostly beyond my control.

First I drained the coolant by releasing two of the lower Constant Pressure Clips either side of the PRT ( Pressure Relief Thermostat ) and carefully pulled the big hoses away from the PRT. Lots of dirty coolant rushed out. I used a large plant pot drip tray to collect the coolant. Then poured it carefully into a plastic container. I will not reuse it and here's why. That's not Gold Dust but traces of "snake oil" coolant additive. It most certainly would not stop the unseen small split under the short hose connected to the T-Piece.



I half suspected to see something like that as there were traces in the Coolant Expansion Bottle. I will use SPEEDFlush when repaired car is up and running. That will effectively clear any unwanted stuff from the whole cooling system including the Heater Matrix.

Next job I always not like to do. Undoing the four nut/studs which secure the Exhaust Manifold to the Exhaust Downpipe/Turbocharger. There are three upward facing studs with 13mm Nuts, these were Hex Nuts ( six sided ) but earlier cars often had Bi-Hex ( twelve points ). The fourth stud nut faces downwards and is always difficult to access and undo. This one above the Wastegate Opening Crank.



In the past, to provide better access, I have disconnected that Wastegate Actuator Rod by releasing that pesky C-Clip ... which usually springs away at Mach 1 into the Unknown. Been there done that and will not need to do that today on the Hex-Nut. Will deploy ... Enter the 13mm Crow's Foot Socket ...



It worked perfectly ... Hoo-bleedin-Ray ...



The upward facing Stud Nuts were much easier to deal with once sprayed liberally with Penetrating Fluid., Again the Crow's Foot Socket helped access that one Nut shrouded by the Manifold itself.



That done, turned my attention to the top of the engine. Undone the 13mm bolt and its 15mm Nut which holds the Alternator, and now free, pushed it towards the radiator to allow access for Cylinder Head removal later. Then undid and stored all fifteen 8mm Bolts which hold the Camshaft Cover and its Gasket in place. Those lifted off easily revealing a coolant-mix free Camshaft assembly Area. Good to see that. So if there is escaping compression gasses over pressuring the Cooling System, oil does not appear going that way at all. There may not be anything wrong with the CHG. I will fit a new one anyway along with a pre-prepared Cylinder Head assembly. Here's what was revealed with cover removed :~





That allowed access to the Ten Through Bolts and all ten were undone a few turns once I had rotated both Camshafts to allow access to the two through bolts between Cylinders three an four which are usually blocked by Camshaft Sensor Half Moon Lobes which are always in the way.

Half way through this work, a near neighbour who usually finishes work early on a Friday, fired up his 6.2 Litre V8 Mercedes-Benz weekend car. Lovely noise.

Want to come for a ride John? Damn... I had to decline his kind offer as it would take best part of twenty minutes to collect up all the kit and tools and lock them away. I was promised another time.

Then used my Blue ZT-T to visit a relative nearby as my back reminded me I am no longer in my mid-thirties and it had had enough... Tomorrow's another day..

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #28 of 72 (permalink) Old 27-02-2017, 18:50 Thread Starter
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The Cylinder Head is removed at last.

In between sunshine and showers made some progress today. Still got soaked .. twice. First image shows additional leverage needed to release the seven silly tight 13mm Inlet Manifold Nuts.



Three of which were not OE Flanged Nuts but flange-less ones of poor quality. These latter corroded and so prone to rounding the flats. A few minutes job to remove which actually took over half and hour due to over-tightening and poor quality nuts used. There was more evidence of the wrong nuts and bolts today and previously when working on this engine... so unnecessary.

Another problem was removal of this Clip on the small hose which connects to the Jiggle Valve in the Inlet Manifold Stub Tube. Five minutes to carefully remove instead of a couple of seconds. The tang was broken off and missing the sharp bare end penetrated the hose material. :~



One of the attached images shows the broken Clip after removal. I have a spare and will fit that on reassembly. Removal of the Inlet Manifold revealed a very worn and perished Inlet Manifold Gasket well past its sell by date :~



Once the Cylinder Head Assembly was lifted away it revealed an Elastomer Cylinder Head Gasket had been fitted PLUS a Head Saver Shim... :~



It was fast approaching 6 p.m. and darkness and it started to rain .. my feet were nearly numb with cold so I can take a message from the weather Gods.. again .. so I called it a day... Tomorrow is another day too...

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #29 of 72 (permalink) Old 28-02-2017, 16:52 Thread Starter
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A little further progress.

Keen to check liner heights, I removed the old Cylinder Head Gasket [ CHG ] ready to pressure wash all the engine and its compartment.

This was the state of the Block after removing the CHG.



I used a Syringe to suck out any remaining old coolant. :~



After the pressure wash, I was pleased with the clean engine compartment but, one negative, the protective Heat Shield jacket around the oil supply pipe to the Turbocharger had partially disintegrated. Will obtain a suitable replacement :~



I then turned my attention to the old CHG. After a quick wipe over, it was not an Elastomer as I first though but some kind of MLS of a type I did not recognise. Some sealant appears to have been used. That will need to be cleaned off the block prior to fitting my spare refurbished Cylinder Head and new Gasket.

I then ran my finger test across the four Cylinder Liner ~ Cylinder Block interfaces. I was pleased that all four passed my "finger test" confirming liners slightly proud of their surround block locations.

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #30 of 72 (permalink) Old 01-03-2017, 20:01 Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Little more progress.

Despite fitting a shelf in the kitchen and a bit of painting, found an hour late afternoon to lift the bonnet of this project car.

First I selected a new Elastomer Cylinder Head Gasket. I had one each from both ELRING and FAI. I chose the ELRING although, they looked almost identical. The guide TOP and FRONT as well as the holes and numerous other Manufacturing Tooling Marks make me suspect, the basic metal sheet came off the same manufacturing machine! Even all the Elastomer Seals appear identical. No signs of any differences except a very minor one. Around some of the "Church Window" shaped Elastomer Seals on the FAI item, there appears traces of something which I suspect is adhesive although I have no way of knowing. Those ten "Church Window" shaped holes are where the through bolts pass down to the bottom of the Cylinder Block where they locate in the Oil Rail.



Both came with impressive Instruction Guide Sheets :~



I sprayed the Block and Cylinder Liner tops with a very weak solution of Fairy Liquid.... Much <5% dilute. Then used a wire brush in my trusty Black and Decker Pistol Grip Electric Drill ( bought ca. 1972 ) very carefully and lightly to clean up the Block's top surface and Piston tops. Followed that with a light working of the cleaned area with some 180 grade wet and dry used wet. Then used Kitchen Tissue Sheets to mop up and dry away any moisture. Pleased with end product. :~



Not 100% convinced my Cylinder Liner Height "finger test" showed all four liners proud of their surrounding block locations.

This is the test I've used many times in the past. This on a 1.4 K-Series liner.



Still doubtful I slide a 1mm Feeler Gauge against the Liner. If it stops that's good enough for me. :~



Today I used trusty straight edges and feeler gauges to check and check again.



Not as clear cut on all liner-block interfaces as in the past so just maybe my using an Elastomer CHG for the very first time is the right choice. Previously with a dozen plus K-Series CHG renewals, I've used the MLS so called uprated gasket.

Then placed the ELRING Cylinder Head Gasket over the two locating dowels. :~



Large spots of rain started falling ... again! ... so packed away the few tools before they became soaked and covered the work with a piece of board to protect it. Same old, same old ... rain stopped play. Must be patient.


Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......

Last edited by MGJohn; 01-03-2017 at 20:08.
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post #31 of 72 (permalink) Old 01-03-2017, 20:29
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Cripes John - you even have a special board to fit over the k series block!

Hope the weather improves. If it makes you feel any better, I got wet earlier this week fitting a new rear caliper to the zs as the old one was sticking. Had to be done as the car was needed...
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post #32 of 72 (permalink) Old 01-03-2017, 21:06 Thread Starter
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by gnu View Post
Cripes John - you even have a special board to fit over the k series block!

Hope the weather improves. If it makes you feel any better, I got wet earlier this week fitting a new rear caliper to the zs as the old one was sticking. Had to be done as the car was needed...
Lost count of the times this frustratingly boring autumn and late winter I and all my tools have got a soaking. This frustrating weather literally puts a damper on things not least my enthusiasm for the project work. Lovely bit of sunshine, get all the tools out and work area set up ready, down comes the rain from a big black cloud from nowhere...directly over me... Paranoid ... just a tad... Grrrrrrh!

Not only my special board, somewhere in the depths of my garages, there's a sheet of Alloy specially tailored to do the same as that piece of board only better and a closer more secure fit. Also another sheet of alloy as a perfect fit on a T-Series Turbo...

As the title suggests, there really is no known cure... Good eh ..

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #33 of 72 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017, 19:53 Thread Starter
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Thumbs up More good progress today. Time consuming little jobs done.

Chilly but lots of fine sunshine so made more progress this afternoon. Concentrating on the various fixings needed on the refurbished spare Cylinder Head. :~

Bare Cylinder Head :~



New Exhaust Manifold Studs and lightly refurbished Coolant Elbow. :~



Using two 13mm Spanners to lock together two 13mm Nuts so that the Inlet Manifold Studs can be extracted from the original Cylinder Head. There are seven and this took a good bit of time but, worth while.





Very time consuming but getting there :~



New Exhaust Manifold Studs and Gasket in place :~



Exhaust Manifold Bolted up :~





Fast losing good light then so I quickly assembled my small Angle Grinder with thin metal cutting disc. Then cut off the excess threads from each of the five Exhaust Manifold Studs. If ever I ~ I may keep this car ~ or anyone needs to remove those Manifold Nuts, far less undoing required and less thread to become corroded. Four of the five Nuts and Studs on the car's original Cylinder Head were seized solid. Each came out as one which helped when inspecting the old head. Working on that gave me an opportunity to have a closer look. It had been skimmed in previous ownership and appeared in good shape. I'll clean up and refurbish it in due course. Will come in handy one day. They always do.

Pleased with progress today.

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #34 of 72 (permalink) Old 05-03-2017, 18:41 Thread Starter
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Thumbs down Sick and tired of frequent heavy rain showers.

Despite many rain showers over the past couple of days, made a little more progress. Frequent soakings now leave me with a very nasty chest infection and most joints aching... ...

First, I got a Turbo to Exhaust Manifold Steel Gasket from my box of new spares only to discover it was a T-Series Turbo item.. more Fortunately I had a K-Series one too. News to me they are so different. Oval and rectangular Apertures. See here. K Series on the left :~



Correct item in place after cleaning interfaces :~



Tidy bodge repair revealed ~ does work though.. :~



Thin wood pieces to protect Gasket from heavy Cylinder Head. :~



Silly tight 15mm Sump Drain Plug needed this lot to undo. More



Using my trusty Britool smaller Torque Wrench, 20nm Plus two passes of 180 Degrees secures Cylinder Head. :~



One unexpected thing. A close neighbour turned up in this. So, a red, white and silver one near where I live and a local driving school uses a higher profile spec one in bright yellow. A frequent sight locally now. :~



Following all those many cold to the bone and soakings right through to the skin I now possess the worst chest infection I ever remember having in all my days!

Paranoid me ? ... No way but, there are times when I suspect the whole Universe conspires to thwart my best laid plans. Once or twice is mere coincidence. However, twenty seven times means the Rain Gods are extracting the Urine!

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #35 of 72 (permalink) Old 08-03-2017, 16:52 Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Small progress update.

Didn't touch any car today, felt too rough with this persistent chest infection. Did make a little progress yesterday.

Firstly, added 4.5 Litres of DIESEL FUEL to the Engine :~



Simply carefully pouring the Diesel Fuel over both Camshafts started the cleansing action immediately. Impressed how clean the Camshafts and their surroundings appeared soon after. :~



Close up of part of the Exhaust Camshaft showing how clean it is bathed in the Diesel Fuel. :~



Then, carefully removed all four Spark Plugs. They had massive Gaps so I reset all four to 0.80mm. :~



I also refitted the Inlet Manifold and only was able to use six of the seven 13mm Nuts to secure it. Access to one of the studs is very difficult and I may have to undo the Power Steering hose fixing nearby to allow my hand sufficient access. That reminds me, I need to do the same to my other ZT-T which only has six of the seven 13mm Nuts in place for the same limited access reason.

Finally, it was my Birthday on Monday. My ever thoughtful older son Martin bought this present for me. Now that is useful. A wing protector. Magnets at each corner hold it in place. Bit stiff straight out of the box but that will wear off with use and so will follow panel contours more closely. :~


Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #36 of 72 (permalink) Old 08-03-2017, 17:10
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Happy birthday John!
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post #37 of 72 (permalink) Old 08-03-2017, 21:32
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Happy birthday

What's the deal with the diesel then? Do you put it in instead of oil, and for how long? And do you run the engine at all?

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post #38 of 72 (permalink) Old 09-03-2017, 03:46 Thread Starter
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Cool

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Originally Posted by gnu View Post
Happy birthday

What's the deal with the diesel then? Do you put it in instead of oil, and for how long? And do you run the engine at all?
Thanks for the Birthday wishes.

PLEASE NOTE> I am NOT recommending this process only saying it has worked for me and this will be the fourth time I've done it.

Allow the old engine oil to drain hot ideally overnight so that most of the stuff comes out of the engine. It will still show the occasional drip of old oil even after having the drain plug removed for over twelve hours. Then put the DIESEL FUEL in the Engine. Don't forget to replace the Oil Sump Drain Plug....

Yes, then drive the car very gently for five six miles. That should be enough to get it up to normal operating temperature. Don't drive silly. No more than 3000-4000 rpm and then only briefly. Then immediately drain it hot. Allow to drain for at least and hour to get 99% out of the engine. You be surprised what that Diesel Fuel will shift. This image shows what the DIESEL FUEL looked like when it went into the engine in the tray on the left, and what it looked like when drained hot after that six mile gentle run.



Note what remains in the Bowl after draining the Diesel Fuel ready for disposal at the local council recycling depot. That harmful muck would remain circulating in the engine without the treatment. :~



What particularly impresses me is the condition of the correct 10-40 Semi-Synthetic after the Diesel Fuel treatment. Even after several hundred miles later, the 10-40 S-S Oil is still clean and clear on the Dipstick.





Over on other car sites I visit, apparently many engines now do NOT have an Oil sump drain plug! Come oil change time, old oil is sucked out of the engine. Yeah ... right.

The first time I tried this was on my first MG ZT 1.8T project three years ago. Bought with suspect so called Cylinder Head Gasket Failure and non-runner owing to FFS. The signs were there with initial checks. Like this :~



With further confirmation. I want all that muck O_U_T!



Three years on, I use that car as a daily driver and it runs like a turbine. Performs impressively and being the first 1.8T ZT I ever drove, I was surprised how well that little power unit copes in such a big car. I love the 1.8 Turbo K-Series. This is the fourth one I've rescued. One of those four has a successful low mileage MG6 engine transplant.

Over on the 75/ZT Club sight, strong opinions suggest the 1.8T is the best engine in the 75/ZT. Yes, better than the KV6s and BMW Diesel versions. The V8 does not count I guess. I found that hard to believe when I first read that. Now I understand what they mean although all engines have their attractions.

The only disadvantage with the 1.8T is the silly high and unfair UK's VED @ about 275 per annum last time I looked. That thanks to the EU's erroneous Emissions Guidelines which dealt Petrol engines an unfair penalty. Those VED values calculated on the wrong parameters and actual harmful stuff measured. Correction, NOT measured. Our previous Governments eager to be seen to be doing the right "green thing" back then, used those falsehoods without question. Plonkers! Glad that's been found out for what it is but, still nothing done to redress that unfairness.

How come I'm awake at this hour? Can't sleep. Something I usually do with ease. That chest infection is starting to clear and if I lay down to sleep, I soon start coughing painfully. If I sit up, no coughing or sneezing. There's a lot of this about according to a news item on the radio today. One or two news correspondents struggling to speak due to chest/throat infections. I know how they feel.

I shall try and sleep sitting upright in a chair. I may just fall asleep from exhaustion anyway!

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #39 of 72 (permalink) Old 09-03-2017, 06:25
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Interesting - I've used engine flush additive on oil changes on dirty engines. I guess diesel can do a more thorough job. Tbh, I'm a bit wary of really aggressive flushes in old engines as they can open up leaks.

Any tips for decoking valves on a head (apart from the 'Italian tune') that usually comes up. Does Redex or premium fuel help in your opinion?

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post #40 of 72 (permalink) Old 09-03-2017, 23:55 Thread Starter
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Last night, a quick check round the garden under the security lights revealed a number of Snails on the paving slabs including two or three large specimens. Lots of smaller ones. Not seen any since last November. Earlier yesterday, many Black Ants appeared in the garden and were very active. Again, some months previously last time I saw them.

Today, by some margin best day of the year so far. That's more like it. Spring is arriving and the creatures knew it yesterday. How do they know that

Not a cloud in the Sky for most of the morning and early afternoon since the Sun first appeared. The only clouds up there in the clear blue were man made. Numerous vapour trails left by Jet Liners out of London Heathrow all in the same S.E.~N.W. direction. Not much air movement so they hung up there for over and hour before disappearing.

Took advantage of these fine conditions and spent an easy two hours working on this car. Those two hours spread over more with frequent breaks for drinks and watching the Snooker on TV. Two little jobs needing attention which I was not looking forward to owing to difficult access. Both involved 13mm Nuts. One fitted to the one downward facing Stud which secures the Turbocharger to the Exhaust Manifold. The three other Studs all face upwards and are easy to access. I laid a short length of carpet under the front of the car and once comfortable laying on that, reached up and that troublesome nut was secured .. at last. Whilst under the car, I looked at the various things restricting access to the one Inlet Manifold Stud I had so far been unable to fit the required 13mm Nut. Thus, now with a better idea of what was in the way, I assembled a couple of short 1/4" extension bars with a thin 13mm 1/4" Socket. I then wedged the Nut in the Socket with some paper to hold it firmly and stop it dropping out. Then from above the Inlet manifold, with the strong Sunshine actually on the difficult to access stud, that helped, I fed the extension bars with the Nut on the end under and through the obstructions and could see it engage those Stud threads and start to turn. Oh deep joy. Soon had it tightened with my 1/4" Socket Drive.

Need to remove the Timing Side Main Engine Mount so that the new Timing Belt can be fitted. Five 15mm tight Bolts and a tight 18mm Nut. Glad to report none were what I describe as silly tight unlike some other major fasteners on this car. That was a relief. Then using the Trolley Jack to raise and lower the engine, all five Bolts and the one Nut were loosened and then removed along with the complete Engine Mount Assembly. The Sump now resting on a piece of wood on the Axle Stand as support.

The lower Timing Belt Plastic Cover will also need to be removed to fit the Timing Belt. Then I remembered how difficult the one 8mm Cover Bolt located behind the Power Steering Belt Tensioner Pulley was to access and undo. I used the same technique as in the past. Undid the two 10mm Bolts which secure the Tensioner. No need to completely remove those two 10mm bolts but they need to be undone most of the way. That enables the Tensioner to be moved away allowing extra clearance to the hidden 8mm Cover Bolt. Then with the 1/4" Socket Drive and deep reach 8mm Socket, that bolt was at last removed along with the Timing Belt lower Cover... at last. That little job took over and hour!

One more fiddly possibly time consuming job remains. Old Water Pump removal. That can wait until tomorrow. Old one looks fairly new but, I will fit a new one rather than discover problems with the old Pump when it's all back together.

One final Job today before packing the tools away. Fitting the two Camshaft Pulleys and securing them with their 17mm Bolts and large washers. Careful to ensure EX and IN Keyway slots are correctly located over their respective Roll Pins on their Camshaft Ends. Then I used the Camshaft Locking Device Tool after rotating them both to hold the two Camshafts in that correct Timing position .

When all those little time consuming jobs are complete, real progress can be made and the engine will soon be all back together. That could even mean it runs tomorrow if this fine weather continues. There is no hurry for that. Things get overlooked when jobs are hurried. Must be patient.

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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