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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 12:59 Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Tools, Techniques and DIY Gizmos.

Having experienced an unusual freak incident with my latest project MG ZT-T 1.8t which ripped out the nearside front Wheel Arch Liner along with the ABS Sensor Cable a few days ago, checking the supply to and the readings from the actual Sensor is difficult because of the design of the Blue Connectors, both male and female. This first image shows the fiddly problem when checking the readings on a known ZT-T with correct ABS operation. :~



Some years ago, my very little used near mint Rover 620ti I've had tucked away for several years, lit up it's ABS light and it stayed on when I started it up to keep the fluids moving as I do from time to time. Lack of use in my experience, can often cause items to expire on unused cars and that is what happened here with the Nearside Rear ABS Sensor. When removing a known good replacement from a breaker yard car, I also removed part of the ABS Sensor Cable on the other side of the scrap car. Later, using some small crocodile clips and a few minutes with the Stanley Knife and Soldering Iron, I made up a little DIY Gizmo which enables the ABS Sensors on the 6o0s to be checked easily in a minute or two.

With that in mind I removed part of the ABS Sensor Cable and its Blue Connector from a Scrap Yard Rover 75. I made up this little DIY Diagnostic in the same way as I did years ago for the 600 version of the gizmo which is a very effective tool to enable the ABS Sensors to be checked using a Multimeter quickly. The following images show what I did. At next to zero cost. Five pairs of Red and Black mini Crocodile Clips can be obtained for less that three quid posted off ebay.

This is the end product which works well. You need to separate the Blue Connector and use the Male part to check the cable to the actual Sensor on the wheel hub assembly. The female part of the blue connector can be used to check the power supply from the loom in the engine compartment. :~



Here the Blue Connector has been separated show male and female parts. :~



Close up view of the Mini-Crocodile Clips. :~



Although both cables each side of the Blue Connector look undamaged, the lack of a reading from the actual sensor on the hub makes me suspect the cable was stressed during the incident and possibly severed the electrical connection somewhere in that part of the cable or Sensor itself. Having an identical car closeby to check its readings to use as a control comparison helps too... Prior to the incident, the ABS behaved itself well as it's one of the things I check on a newly acquired used car. Simply by driving it at say 30 mpg on damp or wet grass and applying the brakes firmly and feeling the ABS pulses on the brake pedal as the system does its stuff.

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-11-2016, 08:40
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MGJohn, I am afraid to say my local breakers closed last month. I popped up there for a part last Saturday and it was empty and closed off. I am so sad as I must have got over 100 parts from that place at very reasonable prices. I hope the one near you stays open. The scrap price is low now and they may be struggling to make money from the metal side. Let's hope selling parts will keep them going.
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-11-2016, 09:19 Thread Starter
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Yes, the current state of the World markets means even the Chinese no longer want to get their hands on all the scrap metal going. Prices subsequently very low. Someone weighed it a Ford Ka at my favourite local breakers recently who thankfully still look in good shape with lots of activity. My father took me there for the first time when I was about ten in the early 1950s. I asked that Ka owner how much he got for it ~ a complete runner remember driven in ~ 26! Out of interest, I asked another local scrap metal operation how much for a complete Rover 75. He keyed in some stuff on his computer and that came up with a total of... wait for it. 22!

Low metal prices combined with ever tighter trading and environment constraints is forcing closure of many outfits. Will the environment benefit ~ yeah ... right. Those we entrust to the Nation's and indeed the Planet's well being have not got a clue. They've been conned as they eagerly want to be seen doing the "right" green thing. Selling more new cars instead of keeping nicer older ones going a direct negative result from misleading silly EU emissions parameters and other EU constraints, Forcing wasteful premature termination of many fine cars. Not just our favourites of course, many others.

My latest visit showed a wide range of BMWs, AUDIs, Mercedes and other more highly regarded product ( often proven unfounded ) all about ten years old, or, some even less. Many cars which folks elsewhere in the world would love to have, maintain and keep going for many more years. We in the UK excel at getting far too many things wrong usually with the best of intentions. Whilst other rapidly developing and prospering Nations do not play so fairly with respect to those same things. No doubt smirking whilst taking advantage both commercially and in other areas. Don't take my word for that. Ask one D. Trump.

How far are you from Bloxham? I visited Smith's of Bloxham ( Nr. Banbury OX15 4HD ) a couple of times last summer. My son has moved to that area and he like me, likes to explore scrap yards. Smith's "remove it yourself" is a well run operation with friendly folks with reasonable prices. Worth a look if you're ever nearby.

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-11-2016, 09:32
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Not too far MGJ, about 45 mins I suppose on a good day. Worth it for an afternoon exploring. Thanks and I agree with all above.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-11-2016, 09:48
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Must be testing a lot of sensors to make a special tool up for it!

Sorry for my ignorance here John, but what is your pass/ fail criteria here? i.e. voltage or resistance range

gnu
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-11-2016, 12:20 Thread Starter
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Cool ... and now for some really good news. Another fine old MG Saved.

Have I helped the environment in some small way today.? The good news. That 55-Plate ZT-T taken in P/X by a local used car dealership ( they and previous owner professionally convinced it had the "They all do that" damaged Cylinder Head Gasket. I took a chance when I bought it back in the summer having previously bought no less than eight Rover/MG cars wrongly professionally diagnosed with the knee-jerk "They all do that" diagnosis over the past dozen years or so. Such is the widespread mindset within the trade and the UK Car Consumer Buyer Market. This is the ninth MG/Rover which was wrongly diagnosed. It would have been headed for my favourite local scrapyard less than a mile up the road.

What good news some may ask, it lives on for another twelve months plus having today passed the MoT needing only a rear indicator bulb. The tester thought the original was not orange enough. Looked plenty fine to my old minces. He fitted one whilst I waited and the total cost of the Test and Bulb ... 29.20p. That's how bad this car was/is! Covered over a thousand miles since purchase including some towing duty when I towed my son's Rover 25 to his new home over thirty miles away. That was a good test for a CHG hauling that weight up some of the steepest hills locally. It is a delight to drive and is fast becoming my favourite daily driver alongside the 620ti I've had for over ten years.

I attach a couple of images of it being tested this morning.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gnu View Post
Must be testing a lot of sensors to make a special tool up for it!

Sorry for my ignorance here John, but what is your pass/ fail criteria here? i.e. voltage or resistance range
No need to apologise, in my limited experience, different values for each car model. It helps to take readings from a known good car, then test each sensor to ID the guilty party.

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-11-2016, 11:04 Thread Starter
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Check your pulses Madam ... or Sir.



The beauty of this DIYer Gizmo is that when used in this configuration interposed between the separated car's own Blue ABS Connector, no need to penetrate or break into any wires when checking pulse readings etc. Perfect access to the readings via the mini-Crocodile clips


Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 16-11-2016, 17:40 Thread Starter
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Cool There's more...

My very cheap new Front Right ABS Sensor Assembly arrived this morning. So cheap someone could be forgiven for suspecting the quality. Best to check before fitting.

Thus, I had an opportunity to use my ABS Checker Gizmo again. Soon had it connected to the newly arrived Sensor and it came up with this reading which appears satisfactory compared the the "control" reading on the other car with a known good Sensor. See top picture in post #1 for comparison. The one on the car gives a ZERO reading now.



Closer view of the arrangement. Works well. :~



Whilst searching the boxes of muddles in my garage for something, I came across two items which I knew I had but could not find... One was another Blue ABS off-cut connector.... this from Rover 75 front right. The other a Connector from the Clutch Hydraulics to the Clutch Slave Cylinder. So, as some more mini-Crocodile Clips arrived along with the new ABS Sensor today, I made up another ABS Gizmo and checked it worked. It did. Here's the MKII version which was better prepared than my first attempts benefiting from the lessons learned back then. Here it is :~



Here's the Hydraulic Connector :~



Pleased with the success of these DIYer Gizmos, looking at that Clutch Hydraulic Connection gave me a senior moment ... ... How easy would it be to make up a simple arrangement to enable the Slave Cylinder and its Hydraulic Lines to be bled and charged without the need to get under that Driver's footwell. Prefer to avoid doing that. Will give it some more thought and make up something suitable and see if it can be made to work.

In the distant past, I did something similar to enable the often difficult to bleed Clutch Hydraulic Slave Cylinder on the Rover 600/800 turbos to do so without the need to get under the car. It involved using a Syringe and removing the Slave from its awkward positioning and difficult access mounting location. Very easy to bleed it that way and often results in a Clutch Release enabling Reverse Gear in the PG1 Gearbox to be engaged ... silently.



We shall see...

Anyone with comments regarding any of the above, particularly the Clutch Bleeding idea, delighted to hear your views.

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 17-11-2016, 17:45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGJohn View Post
Yes, the current state of the World markets means even the Chinese no longer want to get their hands on all the scrap metal going. Prices subsequently very low. Someone weighed it a Ford Ka at my favourite local breakers recently who thankfully still look in good shape with lots of activity. My father took me there for the first time when I was about ten in the early 1950s. I asked that Ka owner how much he got for it ~ a complete runner remember driven in ~ 26! Out of interest, I asked another local scrap metal operation how much for a complete Rover 75. He keyed in some stuff on his computer and that came up with a total of... wait for it. 22!

Low metal prices combined with ever tighter trading and environment constraints is forcing closure of many outfits. Will the environment benefit ~ yeah ... right. Those we entrust to the Nation's and indeed the Planet's well being have not got a clue. They've been conned as they eagerly want to be seen doing the "right" green thing. Selling more new cars instead of keeping nicer older ones going a direct negative result from misleading silly EU emissions parameters and other EU constraints, Forcing wasteful premature termination of many fine cars. Not just our favourites of course, many others.

My latest visit showed a wide range of BMWs, AUDIs, Mercedes and other more highly regarded product ( often proven unfounded ) all about ten years old, or, some even less. Many cars which folks elsewhere in the world would love to have, maintain and keep going for many more years. We in the UK excel at getting far too many things wrong usually with the best of intentions. Whilst other rapidly developing and prospering Nations do not play so fairly with respect to those same things. No doubt smirking whilst taking advantage both commercially and in other areas. Don't take my word for that. Ask one D. Trump.

How far are you from Bloxham? I visited Smith's of Bloxham ( Nr. Banbury OX15 4HD ) a couple of times last summer. My son has moved to that area and he like me, likes to explore scrap yards. Smith's "remove it yourself" is a well run operation with friendly folks with reasonable prices. Worth a look if you're ever nearby.
Good post, agree with alot of it but I guess in the long run,anything getting scrapped needs to make sure that it is done in an environment that is friendly to the planet but I have no doubts if some body or agency has a vested interest in a particular view re recycling and scrapping of vehicles they will distort any figures and facts to suit and support their particular point.
No matter how fuel efficient a brand new car is compared to say a car of our age,taking in all the energy required to make the new car ,I cannot see how or why it is more efficient to scrap a car if in reasonable working condition even accounting for fuel efficiency gains.
It would take years and years to equate the energy and yes, then that car will be deemed scrapable anyway and so the cycle goes !!!!
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 17-11-2016, 18:51
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Absolutely agree. If you look into the facts and figures (not that I've dug that deep personally, but there are sources I trust and sources I don't), you will find that the new generation of green battery cars are actually more damaging to the environment that a fossil fuel burning vehicle because of the process of manufacturing the batteries.
Likewise, the production of a spanking brand new car leaves a far larger footprint than keeping a dirty old V8 running.
Go figure, someone makes lots of money out of this, we are just mushrooms, kept in the dark and fed BS
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 17-11-2016, 19:23 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockerbox View Post
Absolutely agree. If you look into the facts and figures (not that I've dug that deep personally, but there are sources I trust and sources I don't), you will find that the new generation of green battery cars are actually more damaging to the environment that a fossil fuel burning vehicle because of the process of manufacturing the batteries.
Likewise, the production of a spanking brand new car leaves a far larger footprint than keeping a dirty old V8 running.
Go figure, someone makes lots of money out of this, we are just mushrooms, kept in the dark and fed BS
Good points. Those we entrust to the Nation's and indeed the Planet's well being are all too often simply not fit for purpose. They demonstrate this time and time again.

Agreed and we are not the only ones. One of the many reasons I voted a big fat OUT of European Union Membership was because of the stupid way exhaust emissions parameters were drawn up within the EU. The EU emissions parameters ( never questioned or tested by the clueless in the UK, just taken as gospel in their pursuit of being seen doing the "green thing" ) caused severe green blindness here and elsewhere. Yes even allowing for our German Automotive Manufacturing friends ( particularly VAG ) stitching up numerous world markets. If anyone watched any Diesel Car having its emissions tested in a UK Test Station they would be amazed that any ever pass the Emissions test. That they do is simply the parameters combined with measuring the wrong stuff enables many to pass with ease. Thus, the majority of this Nation's car consumers and no doubt many elsewhere have had their brains washed in Diesel Fuel. Convinced, petrol is evil, diesel is the green way to go.....UK Vehicle Excise Duty is thus calculated on these misleading and unfair parameters and measurements. Still nothing done.

I am in favour of any green issue measure which are of real benefit. Indeed I have planted more trees over the past forty years than the average person or even any die hard green issue merchant Politico. I do not like being conned ...

My daily driver MG ZT-T 1.8t is slow to warm up the heating even when its on full. Prior to this cool spell of weather ~ Gales and Tornados in some parts of the UK today ~ I had not been aware of this lack of good heat in the car. Today I used my ZT 1.8t saloon and that car's heating gave out rather more heat. Not as well as my wife's ZS 1.8 NASP car or my Rover 620ti, but noticeably better than the ZT-T.

I'm inclined to suspect the PRT thermostat needs renewal. More work for me old bones ... ...

Bit of a fair weather boy me. Do not like the cold winter months. Roll on Spring...the sooner the better ...

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 18:26 Thread Starter
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Cool More about techniques and methods...

Before removing the Cylinder Head on my latest ZT-T 1.8t project car, thought I'd peruse the images I took when doing Cylinder Head Gasket renewal on the first ZT 1.8t "HGF" project I bought back in Spring 2014. Simply to refresh my few remaining grey cells still up and running... many having fallen by the wayside from years of wear and tear ...

Came across this image of my Cylinder Liner check method. If the 1mm feeler gauge blade butts firmly up against the edge of the Cylinder Liner, that is proof positive that it is proud. :~



I used that MG ZT 1.8t saloon today and also had a look at the coolant level in the Expansion Bottle. All looked good. The very low winter sun actually focused a strong shaft of light on the bottom of the Expansion Bottle. Then all was far easier to see with that concentrated sunlight. This chance observation convinced me to use a small torch for future checks. Makes a big difference.

Previously, I have checked Liner heights more systematically like this :~



However, if the Liners are proud of the surrounding block around all four points where they interface with the block, that 1mm Feeler gauge blade so far has proved a simple effective check.

This "First" ZT 1.8t project car warms up far quicker with good heater output soon after starting than my two ZT-Ts in regular/occasional use this cold weather. It warmed up quickly again today too... not quite as good heater output as my MG ZS 1.8 but much better heat output than the ZT-Ts. This ZT Saloon was given the SPEEDFlush treatment soon after completion of the CHG renewal and that cleared away a lot of muck from the cooling system and that hopefully included the heater matrix.

By the way, this first car was yet another "they all do that" and sometime after on a very cold night, lots of steam from the front of the bonnet. Investigation next day in the daylight revealed :~

The short J-shaped hose to the turbocharger had fractured.



Fortunately I had a good used spare hose following visits to local breaker yards. Glad I did, Rimmer Bros list that little hose north of fifty quid before postage!



So that now makes THREE 1.8T ZTs I have taken on and soon after each suffered a fatigued coolant hose with lots of steam.

This was the second :~



That top hose let go big time at Motorway Speed. Massive clouds of steam out the rear offside , ie, not the exhaust side which was an immediate clue for me as I coasted to a stop.

Plus my current project also had this problem.This time the shorter top hose the other side of the T-Piece. :~



Fortunately I had a spare ....



No more coolant loss but, CHG damage already done....will overheat after a few gentle miles. Had that "fail" not happened, I would not have the car as a project. Old saying... It's an ill wind...etc.

When the temperature improves making working outside less chilling, I'll get stuck in replacing that car's CHG. Irrespective of liner height checks, I shall use the Elastomer Cylinder Head Gasket this time along with new Water Pump ( sans evaporator ). Previously, I have always used the MLS version ( Multi-Layer-Steel ) and so far fitting over a dozen MLS gaskets along with the all important shim, no cause to change my mind about that. However, I want to see how the Elastomer version shapes up with my efforts this time.

I hope this will become a reliable car when I've fitted that new CHG. Hope so.

Could these three so called "failure" HGFs all have become failures due to leaking worn out coolant hoses? Coolant loss passing unchecked or unnoticed is a killer of CHGs. No way of knowing exactly what happened in previous ownership but, in my ownership, looks like they played a major part.

Ever onwards.

Well, at my age it's an interesting way to pass the time.

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 20:15 Thread Starter
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Acquired a useful gizmo to add to my collection. A work lamp. Both mains powered and rechargeable battery. So very portable.

The helpful AA Guy who recovered my ZT with the fractured top hose demonstrated a larger version of my lamp he had in the AA Van. I was impressed but, did not need a large one for my DIY stuff. No more groping about in the dark for me.. Here is is:~



.... and in action this evening during darkness. :~


Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 14-02-2017, 01:13 Thread Starter
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Cool That Work Light. Should have got one ages ago.

Really getting to like this Work Light. Works well at night of course as posted previously. Used it again today in bright late winter sunshine. How so? That pesky 8mm Coolant Bleed Bolt on the coolant tube above the Bell Housing is both hard to access and hard to see in the dark recesses down there. Even in bright sunlight like today. Placing the Work Light above that area all became clear.



A great help whilst draining the SPEEDFlush treatment from the car's cooling system. Then pressure hose washing clear and refilling with Blue 50-50 mix Anti-freeze coolant. Here's my working area image :~



That certainly did the trick. My ZT-T now has the same heater output on the full setting as both my MG ZS and Rover 620ti. Heater output was so poor I was concerned if it ever could be improved. Going against the Instructions on the tin which recommends running the engine at fast idle with the aggressive flushing agent, I planned to run the car for only 20-30 miles then drain and flush. Circumstances meant the SPEEDFlush was in the system for double that ... sixty miles. I hope that none of the various components exposed to the aggressive flushing agent have suffered in any way. Forty miles on. all appears well. The heater output particularly so. I hate being cold.

Very useful that Work Light. Now resides hanging from a large hook from my garage roof rafters where it is easy to reach. Yes, another useful gizmo I'm pleased with.

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-03-2017, 17:09 Thread Starter
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A useful gizmo.

Although I have told all relatives etc not to buy me presents at Christmas and Birthday times, my ever thoughtful older son Martin bought me a present as it was my birthday two days ago. Now this wing defender will be a very useful addition to my box of gizmos. Bit stiff straight out of the box but that will wear off with time and the material will follow the contours of the panels much more closely. There is a magnet at each of the corners to hold it against metal panels :~


Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-03-2017, 15:47
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Those fender protectors are useful. I use one when working on my F. I attach it to the boot opening and the portion of the bodywork where the hood attaches using plastic spring clamps, works really well.
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 21:13 Thread Starter
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Crow's Foot Socket Deployment.

Those members here like me who work on our cars will know there are numerous examples of difficult to access components and fasteners on them.

Working on the K-Series 1.8Ts, two fasteners which I find particularly awkward of access are the O2 Sensor on the Exhaust Downpipe and those two awkward to access nuts of the four holding the Ex-Manifold to Turbocharger Flanges interface.

When removing those two "difficult" 13mm Turbo-Manifold Nuts, I used a 3/8" Drive 13mm Crow's Foot Socket to first loosen them, one of these four faces downwards ....... then using a conventional Ring or Open Ended Spanner without fear of rounding off any of their flats. Here, I'm loosening one of the upper facing nuts when removing the Turbocharger a few days ago :~



Today, reassembling the rebuilt Turbocharger onto the car, I again used the Crow Foot Sockets along with various short-longer wobble bar extensions. :~



Wobble bar extensions enable that difficult angle of access to be overcome when it's essential that the sockets are fully home on the Nuts or Bolts to avoid the dreaded rounding off of flats. That is always bad news.

Here some days ago that same 13mm Crow Foot Socket being used to loosen one of the most difficult to access nuts on these 1.8T cars,. The single down facing 13mm Nut on the Turbo-Manifold Interface. Very DIY user unfriendly. Used to loosen then easier to undo fully using spanner.



Then the O2 Sensor which needs a 22mm Socket. Because of location and design, impossible to loosen with a 22mm Spanner or Socket. No room to swing a big spanner or access. Again 3/8" Wobble Bars and Crow Foot 22mm Socket to the rescue. :~



Close up of 22mm Crow's Foot Socket located on the O2 Sensor's 22mm Hex-flats. :~


Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-04-2017, 21:26 Thread Starter
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More gizmo deployment ...

Gizmos deployed

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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Safer under car working environment.

Car drive on ramps are a very useful asset for any car DIYer with limited resources.

Needing to fix the two "difficult"self tapping screws under the leading edges of the ZT-T's rear bumper, impossible to access and correctly align the three parts involved with car on level ground, set up the drive on ramps. These ramps I bought off an older female work colleague many years ago for a fiver. Her husband had given up DIY work on their cars. They've paid for themselves many times over. A fiver well spent. :~



I always place old pieces of rubber car mats under the ramps. This stops any creeping or slipping which can be a problem sometimes, even dangerous.

I really dislike working under cars. These ramps make such tasks less of a pain for the amateur DIYer with limited facilities.

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 21-04-2017, 20:56
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Car: Rover 75
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Originally Posted by MGJohn View Post

I always place old pieces of rubber car mats under the ramps. This stops any creeping or slipping which can be a problem sometimes, even dangerous.
I used to screw a couple of bits of wood into plastic plugs which I had drilled into the garage floor and drive as bump stops but I like the rubber matting idea.
Cheers.
Mike
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