AP Brake Calliper Rebuild. - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 17-08-2011, 19:11 Thread Starter
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AP Brake Calliper Rebuild.

Having purchased a set of second hand AP brake callipers, I decided to do a total rebuild on them.

Here’s how I did it.

Disassembly and cleaning.

The first picture shows the callipers after an initial clean using a wire brush in a hand held battery drill, so as to remove as much of the old road dirt as possible. This makes them cleaner to handle.




As you can see, I have lifted the pistons so as to be able to see if they are scored or leaking, and also to enable me to clean then thoroughly. Luckily I found no problems here.




Then I had to make the decision as to if I should split them or not, so as to do a proper job.
So I thought in for a penny.
In truth this was the hardest part, mainly because I don’t possess a really good heavy bench vice, so couldn’t get a decent purchase on calliper to give any force when trying to undo the bolt, as these were seized solid due to dirt and the reaction of the two differing metals, at this point I almost gave up with the idea of splitting them.
Anyway I took a trip down to my local garage (An MG specialist) who know a thing or too.
15 quid lighter I was the proud possessor of these.

Times two.



I kept the other calliper loosely bolted together as I didn’t want to get the different half’s mixed up. Don’t know if the half’s a matched at the factory or not, but I thought best keep them as they came.

Further cleaning with the wire brush and drill left me with a clean and fully disassembled calliper.
After this I used STP heavy brake cleaning fluid to remove any oil grease brake fluid etc.



Paint and rebuild.

I purchased all new parts from Mike Satur, I know I could have bought at cheaper prices from eBay etc but it was easier as he had all the parts in one location.

I used a paint kit, purchased from ebay, as I could get it in my choice of colour.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAKE-CALLIPER-CALIPER-PAINT-SUPERB-RESULTS-/170467775638?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM& hash=item27b0abd496

Also it came with a brush (Rubbish) and the STP heavy duty brake cleaner fluid.

This paint dry’s very quickly, 30 minutes between coats, so it goes on very quickly, though I would not advise too much handling as the paint takes up to 24 hours to dry fully.
So paint one face, 2 3 coats if required, and let it dry overnight before doing the rest of the unit.


Here you can see I’ve painted, and at this point, loosely fitted the sliders and piston dust seals.



After fully painting the calliper I allowed it to dry for 48 hours before assembling the two half’s.



During assembly I used (Red Teflon Calliper Grease) to aid fitting rubber dust seals.
All bolts where fitted using (Thread Lock) and (copper slip on heads). This should aid disassembly if I ever need to take them apart again in the future.

They are now ready to fit.



And finally.

The original units as fitted the car when I bought it.
Looking a bit tired and tatty, but were in good working order.



And now fitted to both near and offside, these.
I have also replaced both flexi pipes.



I used copper slip on the mating surface of the wheel before fitting it.

Looking good.



How good are they?

I had a little run out last night to test the new setup. I know I will have to do a couple of hundred or so miles to bed in the new brakes and callipers.
But WOW.
Well worth doing, so much more braking force, and when bedded in, goodness knows?

Double checked for leaks etc today and all working with no problems.
Incony likes this.

Last edited by TouchStone; 26-08-2011 at 20:19.
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 17-08-2011, 19:16
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very nice job mate, so know we all now who to come to for ap rebuilds and painting lol
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 17-08-2011, 19:27
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Tidy job there Ian

Very distinctive and unique
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 17-08-2011, 19:50
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Very nice Ian. Where did you get your centre caps from?
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 17-08-2011, 19:55
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Very thorough job... Wish i had the time to do this on mine, but alas i drive it every day. painted mine aluminium. Look good behind satin black wheels,(will try post a pic 2morro} but would still like to do a full refurb.

Well done...
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 17-08-2011, 20:54
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Excellent job. It's always worth doing things like that properly.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 17-08-2011, 21:04 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Luck View Post
Very nice Ian. Where did you get your centre caps from?
Thanks Sam.
Centre caps of ebay, but it was a while ago and don't have a lead to them anymore. I just searched until I found the one's I wanted. Sorry.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 17-08-2011, 21:24
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Excellent job there Ian...those wheels look fabulous now
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 17-08-2011, 22:53
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Awsome job! What did you exactly done? You've changed all the pistons? Is it difficult to do?
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 18-08-2011, 08:24
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They do look really nice as already said - well done.

I have worked on other cars though where the advice is never to dismantle/separate the two the calipers. Presumably this is because the brake fluid travels from one half to the other and any splitting may allow fluid to leak out or air to be drawn in.

However, I have no real experience of overhauling MG/Rover calipers - perhaps these are different.

I just wanted to flag this up as a possible problem just in case - safety first and all that......

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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 18-08-2011, 08:44 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sergi Bmw View Post
Awsome job! What did you exactly done? You've changed all the pistons? Is it difficult to do?
I did not change the pistons, as you can see in second picture, I lifted the pistons to check for leeks and scorring but found all to be ok.

Quote:
Originally Posted by IanMc View Post
They do look really nice as already said - well done.

I have worked on other cars though where the advice is never to dismantle/separate the two the calipers. Presumably this is because the brake fluid travels from one half to the other and any splitting may allow fluid to leak out or air to be drawn in.

However, I have no real experience of overhauling MG/Rover calipers - perhaps these are different.

I just wanted to flag this up as a possible problem just in case - safety first and all that......
Both halfs of the callper are sealed, the brake fluid is moved from one half to the other by the pipe at the opposite end from the bleed nipples, I used a new pipe, so as long as the seals on the pipe are good, no air can get in, and there's no leakage of fluid.
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 18-08-2011, 08:53
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Dammit!!!

Thats another one on my to-do list!!

Very nicely done, sir!!
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 18-08-2011, 12:29
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Great pics and how to.

I really like the painted centres on the discs
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 18-08-2011, 18:35
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link added to this superb how to - http://www.mgf-tf-central.co.uk/ht-r...tml#APcalipers
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 18-08-2011, 19:14 Thread Starter
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More than wellcome pete.
That's why I posted, in hope that it would help others.
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-10-2012, 13:33
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Finally seen the thread, excellent Ian
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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-10-2012, 18:13
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yeah, thanks, for that.. clues me up to delve into my own Trophy calipers...

If i had any questions one would be, "does making it look good improve its ability ?"
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-10-2012, 19:17 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Incony View Post
yeah, thanks, for that.. clues me up to delve into my own Trophy calipers...

If i had any questions one would be, "does making it look good improve its ability ?"
It's a well known fact on here, that adding stripes makes the car go faster by improving BHP.
Therefore it must make sense that good looking brakes will perform equally well with regards to stoping the car.
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-10-2012, 19:53
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It's a job I am planning on doing.

I have replaced my blue calipers with some brand new red ones, now I just need to refurb the ones I took off.

Did you change the dust seals or just check them and clean them?

How difficult was it to get the little allan bolts out that hold the metal plates in place?

I have new plates etc to fit, but I think the existing ones are going to be a pain.

You can get stainless cross pipes from elise parts, but I am still trying to find somewhere that sells stainless bleed nipples.
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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-04-2014, 12:56
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Damn .......................... just tried splitting one of the AP's that I recently acquired. Three of the allen headed bolts have come undone with protest butt eh other, the fourth, has wrecked two good allen keys and now the head is damaged.

So now the bolts head will have to be machined out and hope that we can get the bolts shank out.

Why Oh why did the idiot use so much of the wrong type of loctite ."Groan"
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