Bonnet light - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-04-2017, 21:17 Thread Starter
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Bonnet light

Since MG-Rover were too tight to put a bonnet light in my TF, decided to fit my own....at least they still left a hole in the bonnet skeleton to allow me to fit one!

And I am quite happy with the wiring, it went in ok and looks alright too.

I took the connections from the bonnet fusebox, with an in line 5A fuse added to protect the circuit, and the 0V connected to the bonnet switch.
Will probably never use it, but the lamp was only a couple of quid from our sponsor, and its something that should have been there anyway!


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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-04-2017, 21:35
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Just a quick question!

As the under bonnet switch is also used for the alarm, did you need to take any precautions to prevent the light affecting the alarm?

When the bonnet is closed, there will be 12V on the wire going to the switch from the light.

Want to do this mod on mine, but thought I would need to put a diode on the alarm wire to prevent issues.

Thanks

peter
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-04-2017, 21:55 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g0rsq View Post
Just a quick question!

As the under bonnet switch is also used for the alarm, did you need to take any precautions to prevent the light affecting the alarm?

When the bonnet is closed, there will be 12V on the wire going to the switch from the light.

Want to do this mod on mine, but thought I would need to put a diode on the alarm wire to prevent issues.

Thanks

peter
No need to protect with a diode, the switch switches 0V or negative earth as we used to call it. It would still be connected to the same source wherever you connected the 0V to (even in the boot). Any diode protection to the alarm control unit will already be fitted if it is needed. I did wonder the same, briefly, then it quickly dawned on me that if you are switching 0V, it aint an issue as its "common" to the supply or battery.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-04-2017, 23:56
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Nice one, next upgrade is to fit s metro/100 interior light here as it can be switched on and off as required.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-04-2017, 00:08
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Nice one, next upgrade is to fit s metro/100 interior light here as it can be switched on and off as required.
That is my plan TC. I have 2 metros in my sights. Well one is a rover 100 did that still have the switch? I couldn't have been paying attention last time I went to the scrappy.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-04-2017, 08:23
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Well one is a rover 100 did that still have the switch?
Yes, they did.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-04-2017, 10:18
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switched lights are a bit like rocking horse ****** to get hold of at a decent price
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-04-2017, 20:24
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hmm.. isnt this easier to do by having a chargeable light in the boot? one has to open the boot to release the bonnet...

i am not criticising... but chargeable light sources are cheap... and they can be moved around... one with a big magnet attached.. especially.. and the engine bay isnt short of dc supplies that are connected to the battery. always on.

try changing a rear wheel tyre in the dark... with an integral bonnet or boot light.. try changing one with a magnetic light... that sits on the ground, or or attaches to the wing..

now think about that bulb in the bonnet lamp.. should it really be an LED... ? do LEDs last longer than filament bulbs?

now think about those cables, and the time it took you to protect them from bonnet shutting damage you cant see until you open it...

and the light dont come on.. because the flexing caused a break in the wires..


NAH.. sorry... i wont go that road... i will be in in posh clothes when i need to open the bonnet in the dark... i know... it will be raining,,, it will be windy.. and the bonnet light wont come on... and i will curse not having an independent light source and call the RAC...
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Last edited by Incony; 10-04-2017 at 20:39.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-04-2017, 20:50
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I find the under bonnet light helps me find my magnetic back LED torch that I keep with the other tools and fluids under the bonnet.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-04-2017, 20:52
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switched lights are a bit like rocking horse ****** to get hold of at a decent price
Cheap as chips from my local breakers.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-04-2017, 07:04
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So why mine doesn't come on?

Rusty switch?
The bulb is new, changed it.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 15-04-2017, 13:22
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The switch is by the horns, just take it off, one screw and clean up the
contacts, should be quite obvious where the corrosion is at first glance,
little wire brush and a new screw will sort it.



Quote:
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switched lights are a bit like rocking horse ****** to get hold of at a decent price

Thats becuase I bought them all in 2008 cheap and sold them on here to
the 200/25/ZR crew lol.

Just remember they fit the 75 and ZT too as well as the Coupes and
Cabbys so a popular mod.

You can get them out of the 100/Metro, late spec Original Mini's and
they were fitted in the LDV Vans too, I got 13 of them out of an LDV
Mini Bus.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-05-2017, 13:40
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hi wich fuse do you use for your positive wire thanks
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-05-2017, 14:59
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As he added an inline fuse I don't think it matters.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-05-2017, 16:08 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by graham8408 View Post
hi wich fuse do you use for your positive wire thanks
Since I took the positive feed from the fusebox busrail under the bonnet I added my own inline fuse fully shrouded and it tucks in nicely inside the fusebox.
You could if you wished take the positive feed back to the fusebox under the steering wheel. This is where MG-R fed the original boot light circuit from.
Cannot remember which fuse it was off top of me head, but its shown on the excellent electrical schematics on here somewhere.


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