Car home made usb charger circuit - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old 27-12-2010, 12:14 Thread Starter
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Car home made usb charger circuit

HI

as some of you know i built a usb charger for my car and fitted into the blank switch plate
as promised i have atached a circuit for you to use
the led does not have to be fitted but it is there if you need to know that the circuit is switched on
i would recomenf that you fit to ignition side and have a seperate on off switch to save power
the capacitors have to be rated to a min of 25v if using electrolitic or any if poly ect
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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old 27-12-2010, 12:18
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This is one of my projects for 2011

Although I'm getting rid of the clock. Swapping the temp gauge over. Then using the blank space for aux port & USB port.

Also, what ampage is that USB running at???
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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old 27-12-2010, 12:18
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I like that, good work Mark!
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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old 27-12-2010, 12:59 Thread Starter
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all usb have a max of 250mA supply
thats why the resistor is 56 ohms as the vreg can deliver 1Amp
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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old 27-12-2010, 13:06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGF MARK View Post
all usb have a max of 250mA supply
thats why the resistor is 56 ohms as the vreg can deliver 1Amp
Ahhh. I'm installing a 2.1amp USB so I can charge iPad.
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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old 27-12-2010, 13:10 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Rosco88 View Post
Ahhh. I'm installing a 2.1amp USB so I can charge iPad.

if you use a Atype connector it is unable to cope with 2.5A also you will not find a Vreg that can do 2.5A output
you will have to use a switch mode psu

but good luck and test before you connect would not like to here it blew up
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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old 27-12-2010, 13:47
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Thanks for this Mark, it'll be on my list to do in the next couple of weeks, just as soon as its warm enough to work outside!
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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old 27-12-2010, 14:02
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Thanks for this Mark, it'll be on my list to do in the next couple of weeks, just as soon as its warm enough to work outside!
August??
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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old 27-12-2010, 16:13
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Originally Posted by MGF MARK View Post
if you use a Atype connector it is unable to cope with 2.5A also you will not find a Vreg that can do 2.5A output
you will have to use a switch mode psu

but good luck and test before you connect would not like to here it blew up
I was thinking of doing something similar but would want 1A total from two outputs. Could I use your circuit for that?
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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old 27-12-2010, 16:36
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I was thinking of doing something similar but would want 1A total from two outputs. Could I use your circuit for that?

If you use the part number supplied in the diagram for the usb. then look for alternatives on the Farnell site, there is a double usb listed that would suit your 1a requirement. part number 1196550. This is what I am opting for.


Oops,that takes care of the socketry not the regulator. If you can't get hold of a reg to handle that amperage, you could always double up the circuit, (duplicate it)

I'm digging this hole deeper! I mean two seperate circuits, not two circuits joined together.
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post #11 of 37 (permalink) Old 27-12-2010, 16:38
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Cheers Bandk. Just what I was looking for.
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post #12 of 37 (permalink) Old 27-12-2010, 16:46 Thread Starter
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hi
if you make sure that the v reg is cooled or mounted to a cooling block then you can get 1.5a max (but now you are into thermal analasis also components have a de rating curve with temperature ect)

i would recomend having 2 circuits to be on the safe side,
the cost of components are about 1.50 so doing 2 circuits wont break the bank
(both 5v outputs can be connected together) also the 56 ohm resistor will need to be removed, it is ther to limit the current if any thing whent wrong

V/I=R
13.5v / .5a = 20-27 ohms
I xV = power so .5a x 13.5v = 6.9w resistor will be needed
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post #13 of 37 (permalink) Old 27-12-2010, 17:06
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I've just come across a slight problem with supply at Farnell.

The vreg is only 97p, but it is U.S stock and there is a 15.95 delivery charge for it

Think I'll pay a trip to Maplin in the town centre tomorrow before I order it!
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post #14 of 37 (permalink) Old 27-12-2010, 17:20 Thread Starter
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the farnell one is just for referance so long as you match that spec you carnt go wrong
look for a v reg that has LMxxxxT5 (t5 states 5v)

oh also try RS components

as im a nice guy
here you go
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/s...duct&R=0463054

MC7805ACTG (on semi)

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Last edited by MGF MARK; 27-12-2010 at 17:25.
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post #15 of 37 (permalink) Old 27-12-2010, 17:53
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This is the list from Maplin.....

N07CA TS78M05CP 1 * 0.843


N78CA 1N4007G 1 * 0.204


M56R Min Res 56R 1 * 0.204


M680R Min Res 680R 1 * 0.204


M150K Min Res 150k 5 * 0.204


AU09K GenElect 1uF 63V 2 * 0.204


L51AZ USB 2.0 (A) PCB Skt 1 * 1.268
If anyone orders from maplin you don't need the 150k resistors, they are ballast resistors for my huge supply of green led's (another project) Ok before anyone points out they are too large, its so that the led's are daisy chained in groups of 5. Total cost is only about 4 but there is 3 delivery on that as well.

Maplin take Paypal as a payment method if anyone is thinking of it. I will still have ot order the double socket from Farnell though as maplin don't do a double, it looks neater than having two singles.
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post #16 of 37 (permalink) Old 27-12-2010, 18:17
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A 7805 will need a reasonable heatsink if you are going to draw upwards of 500mA from it, the 56 ohm resistor will also be getting rather hot at this current too.... I would remove it as it isn't really necessary all of these regulators have internal current limiting.

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post #17 of 37 (permalink) Old 27-12-2010, 18:25 Thread Starter
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, the 56 ohm resistor will also be getting rather hot at this current too.... I would remove it as it isn't really necessary all of these regulators have internal current limiting.[/quote]

my origional circuit is for 250mA the resistor is to limit the curent
the v reg will give 1.5a till it destroys its self
NOT ALL V REGS HAVE CURENT LIMITING

thats why if you use 1Amp you will need to change the resistor and work out the wattage 6.5w see above

any one using there own version of this cct please take into account heat sinking and wattage of components
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post #18 of 37 (permalink) Old 27-12-2010, 18:39
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The 7805 will be adequate for me, its for charging mp3 and the like, nothing major. However on that Maplin page there is a whole range of vregs, with outputs to suit all needs. Then as it is going into one of the spare switch buttons, there is several components behind there with metal heat sink casings that it can be fastened too.
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post #19 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-01-2011, 14:04
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Right I have installed mine today. Not quite what I wanted but it will do for now. 1st off I wanted a double socket but no way was that going to fit into one of the blank switches, so had to settle for a single socket.

I also modified Marks original sketch, I saw a problem with it in that the indicator led placed in that position is on all the time. As he pointed out you can omit it, but I decided on moving it. With the adjusted diagram you can see its new location, this ensures that it only illuminates when an item is plugged into the socket.

The 1st resistor I left out of circuit altogether, refer to Marks original diagram for this. Secondly I added in a resistor after the LED, the voltage is already stepped down at this point from 12v to 5v. The resistor value reflects that, the value given is only a guide, you would need to play around with the value depending on how bright (or not) you want the led.








The last two photo's show the circuit board installed inside the dummy switch body, not very clear, I didn't have the camera set to macro. The switch is actually in two parts snapped together so is fairly easily modified to take the usb socket and the circuit board.
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post #20 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-01-2011, 14:42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGF MARK View Post
all usb have a max of 250mA supply
thats why the resistor is 56 ohms as the vreg can deliver 1Amp
Out of interest, why clamp it 20 250mA?
I can understand if the circuit itself could be damaged, or if the equipment itself should be limited to a max of 250mA, but the USB will only provide what is needed. It won't "push" 1A into a phone if the phone is only asking for 200mA.
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