Changing AP Discs and Pads - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #1 of 73 (permalink) Old 12-06-2007, 14:08 Thread Starter
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Changing AP Discs and Pads

Well, I promised to post the work and take pictures as I do it, so here goes.

I have replaced the front discs and pads. The rears still need doing and I am 95% complete on the service, these will be posted seperately when completed.

Replacing front AP discs and pads.

First of all a bit of sanity in the form of safety. DO NOT work on the brakes or under the car with just the jack for support, it is not designed for this and could collapse with you under it. ALWAYS use axle stands to support the vehicle and chock the wheel with a suitable device. This will prevent the vehicle rolling off the axle stand.

So, lets get started.

The new discs and pads waiting to be fitted



First we remove the road wheel exposing the old disc.



Remove the two bolts that secure the calliper to the hub. It is easier to do if you apply full lock on the steering.



Then force the pads apart so that they clear the outside lip on the disc.



Next, remove the two cross headed disc retaining screws. There are two methods to this. First one is to hammer the ends of the screw which should loosen them up and remove with a large cross headed screwdriver. The second is to use an impact driver. As both of these didn't work for me (one sheared and the other rounded off) I ended up drilling the heads off.



Persuade the disc off by tapping from behind with a suitable hammer. Mine came off fairly easy, but it may take some "heavy" persuation if it is rusted on. Remember that the force you are applying to the disc is also applied to the wheel bearing etc, so be carefull.



And, in the words of Haynes manuals, simply remove the disc



The old disc has a small lip on it, but is not too bad. I may look into getting them skimmed and keeping as spares.



Once the disc has been removed, bolt the calliper back into place. This will make it easier to work on.

Hammer the pad retaining pins out using a suitable drift and hammer. I had a hell of a time removing the bottom pins on both callipers. I ended up soaking them in release oil. I still ended up mushrooming the small ends, but they eventually learned who the boss was. Remove the retaining spring (One on each calliper) and then withdraw the pads.



Once the pins were removed I cleaned the corrosion off with wet and dry and coated them in copper slip.

Here we have the old and new pads as comparison. The pads still had life in them but I feel happier with new pads on.



Now prepare the pads for fitting. Trial fit them first to make sure they fit. I had to file a bit off the edges of both pads (the left and right edge as you look at the photo below) on the passenger side to get them to fit freely. Apply copperslip to the back of the pads and to the sides that you may have just filed.



Now open the pistons as far as they go. Be careful that the displaced brake fluid does not cause the brake reservoir to overflow. Remove some fluid if necessary.

Refit the pads, retaining spring and hammer the pins back in place from the rear of the calliper. The springs need to be replaced the same way that they came off, so make a not. Mine had arrows cut in to them. These arrows follow the direction of rotation of the road wheel.

Once the new pads are fitted, remove the calliper.

Clean the hub with a wire brush. This will help with the fitting of the new disc and will help it seat correctly.



Apply Coppercrest to the hub. This will help when you need to remove the disc next time. Do not use to thick a coating as this could loosen the wheelnuts etc when the hub heats up and the grease melts. It also spins out at speed and makes a mess on your wheel. It is also worth noting that some people do not recommend that you put coppercrest on the face of the hub/disc. I have never had any problems, but the choice has to be yours.



Next prepare the new disc by removing the protective oil with some form of degreaser.



Fit the new disc, disc retaining screws and calliper. One tip worth mentioning is after fitting the road wheel to the correct torque, remove it again and retighten the disc retaining screws. You will find that the action of tightening the wheel on will have forced the disc further onto the hub.



Now refit the road wheel, tighten the wheel nuts and lower the car back onto the wheel. Torque the wheel nuts to their correct setting.

Mmmm, shiny brakes.



Now do the same to the other side



Remember that you have just fitted new discs. Adjust the brake fluid level and drive carefully until your new brakes are bedded in. It may be worth checking all the bolts are still tight after a short period of driving.

Hope this helps people and I will be along soon with the rear brakes

Last edited by CJJ; 04-12-2009 at 18:50.
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post #2 of 73 (permalink) Old 12-06-2007, 14:10
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top job CJJ, excellent thread
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post #3 of 73 (permalink) Old 12-06-2007, 14:12
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Blooming great How Too!
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post #4 of 73 (permalink) Old 12-06-2007, 14:12
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spot on mate
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post #5 of 73 (permalink) Old 12-06-2007, 14:13
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Top post CJJ, good man.
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post #6 of 73 (permalink) Old 12-06-2007, 14:16
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Excellent guide, I was taught once how to change discs and pads but slowly forgot some parts over the years. This will be a great help and save some money!
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post #7 of 73 (permalink) Old 12-06-2007, 14:22
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Great guide, I have put a copy of the 1st post in the forums How to section.
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post #8 of 73 (permalink) Old 12-06-2007, 14:32 Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. Just about finished the normal servicing but rain has stopped play.

Dohhh. So anyone undertaking this sort of thing, don't forget to book the weather.

I don't know whether I mentioned it in another thread but the Mintex Pads for the front were £15 +VAT (£18 ish). I was expecting £25 - £30 when I picked them up. How cheap is that?

Last edited by CJJ; 12-06-2007 at 14:54.
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post #9 of 73 (permalink) Old 12-06-2007, 21:00 Thread Starter
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Any pitfalls to watch out for on the rear brakes? I have got the tool for winding them back, but apart from that I expect it to be pretty much the same as the fronts.
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post #10 of 73 (permalink) Old 12-06-2007, 21:24
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The rear brakes are very different to the way they work to the AP brakes, however they shouldn't be any problems, just make sure that you polish the sliders that the pads slide on.

As you screw the piston back into the caliper check for resistance as this may show that you have a problem with that caliper.
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post #11 of 73 (permalink) Old 12-06-2007, 21:31 Thread Starter
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Cheers Chris. Mind you, if this weather keeps up I won't be doing anything.
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post #12 of 73 (permalink) Old 03-07-2007, 17:08
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CJJ Or anyone else.

My wife has a TF Spark 135 which is said to have the 'uprated front brakes' are these the same as CJJs and if so are they the 305mm AP ones. Also interested in a potential supplier for the mintex kit with brakes and disks as they appear really good value. Have just had a big quote for garage to fit.
Any help in identifying the brakes and a replacement welcome

Thanks
Mark
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post #13 of 73 (permalink) Old 03-07-2007, 17:15 Thread Starter
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Do they look like this?



HAve you got 16" wheels?

If the answer is no to either then they may not be 305mm AP brakes. They may be 280mm uprated brakes, but I have not seen any.

Last edited by CJJ; 04-12-2009 at 18:52.
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post #14 of 73 (permalink) Old 03-07-2007, 17:16
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Originally Posted by gmw76 View Post
CJJ Or anyone else.

My wife has a TF Spark 135 which is said to have the 'uprated front brakes' are these the same as CJJs and if so are they the 305mm AP ones. Also interested in a potential supplier for the mintex kit with brakes and disks as they appear really good value. Have just had a big quote for garage to fit.
Any help in identifying the brakes and a replacement welcome

Thanks
Mark
Hello,
Does your wifes cars front wheels look like this with big red brake calipers?
http://gallery.mg-rover.org/data/500/Front_13.jpg
If they do, then yes, you have AP brakes.

As for suppliers, I got my kit from Mike Satur. But I know other people use www.brakes4u.co.uk

I think thats the right site.
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post #15 of 73 (permalink) Old 03-07-2007, 17:18
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Hi Mark.
Yes the Spark LE has the larger 305mm AP disks and 4 pot callipers fitted so will be the same as CJJ's.
If you want standard disks then your best bet is Ebay, but if you don't mind aftermarket then EBC make disks that will fit in both their 'Turbogroove' and 'Ultimax' designs (Ultimax are quieter due to them not having grooves all the way across the surface).
You could also try www.mikesatur.co.uk
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post #16 of 73 (permalink) Old 03-07-2007, 19:24
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Thanks for help so far attached is a link to an image of the wheel/caliper.

Are these the 305 disks and AP calipers? they are on the 135 spark

If so I guess I will know what to ask for from Mike Satur as at present the brakes are almost non existant and pulse like mad when under braking.

thanks for all of your help

Mark

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...6/IMG_1554.jpg
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post #17 of 73 (permalink) Old 03-07-2007, 19:28
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Excellent how to CJJ

Although i'm not that great on anything car related lol

But good to know there's help out there
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post #18 of 73 (permalink) Old 03-07-2007, 19:48
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gmw76 yes they are AP brakes that you have, Mike will know exactly what you mean.
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post #19 of 73 (permalink) Old 03-07-2007, 20:03
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Thanks Chris

I must appear quite vague on some things but this is because I have spent more time with my Alfa Brera than with my good lady's TF.
Thanks to this forum and especially PeteVick I think I have solved her leaking footwell which was mainly due to blocked cill drain. Also identified weeping heater duct under footwell (although have to find something better than the silicone which didn't work). Now I am moving on to pulsing brakes and who knows maybe replacement badges.

All these faults are a bit dissappointing for 2004 car with 30K but still a lot of fun to drive.

Have sent emails off to Mike Satur

Thanks once again
Mark
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post #20 of 73 (permalink) Old 09-12-2007, 20:26
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Hey great post. I have tried and failed to fit the Mike Sature 280mm discs today. I managed to take the caliper off but the disc just will not move. The 2 screws that hold the disc on were a real pain. One came out on but the other totally rounded off. I Drilled in as far as i could which should have easily cleared the disc but the disc just will no budge at all. Used a blow lamp to heat disc up, still no joy. Hit it several times, soft and 'Hard' with a hammer and its stook fast. The only slight wobble there is seems to be the actual hub. SO this leads me onto 1) Any bright ideas how to pull the disc off 2) Have i damaged the hub seing as it wobbles ever so slightly now 3)Should i give up and get it towed to a garage where they can sort it and charge me ££££££ ??? Any advice would be great.

Martin
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