In my case, the clutch plate didn't seem to have much wear compared to the newer one. Clean the flywheel and clutch plate with a degreasing compound prior to refitting.
Place the new clutch plate in the clutch cover. I fitted a new clutch cover as well and would recommend this as they do wear and also lose their effectiveness after a while.
Place the clutch alignment tool through the clutch cover and into the clutch plate. For those of you new to this, this ensures correct alignment of the cover and plate. If they are not aligned then you will find it nigh on impossible to get the gearbox splined shaft to fit into place.
Position the clutch unit and refit the bolts in the same sequence as you removed them, tightening a little at a time, and ultimately torque them to 25Nm. Remove the alignment tool.
I have used a section of broom handle in the past to align the clutch, but it is worth getting the proper tool as your wife/mother/partner will start giving you grief as the broom gets shorter.
If you have bought a clutch kit, you will get a new release bearing with it. This, as the name suggests, is a bearing that slides on the gearbox input shaft and is moved by the clutch relese arm. Again, replacing this bearing makes sense as they wear and can cause noise and/or fail completely.
Simply unclip the release arm from the old bearing, slide it off the shaft, slide the new bearing on the shaft, ensuring it is the correct way round, and clip onto the release arm.
You are now ready to refit the gearbox.
WHile taking the weight of the gearbox you need to roughly align the gearbox splined shaft with the centre of the clutch. You also need the engine and gearbox to be aon the same level.
Now carefully move the gearbox towards the engine. If there is a lot of resistance the slines on the shaft are not aligned with the splines in the clutch. You will need to carefully rotate the gearbox until the splines line up. Do not try forcing the splined shaft in as you could damage the new clutch.
Once the gearbox shaft is aligned, move the gearbox towards the engine, ensuring that the locating dowels are aligned with their corresponding holes.
You will also need to feed the offside drive shaft into the diff. Once the gearbox is on the engine you need to make sure that the driveshaft is fully home until it clicks in place and cannot be pulled back out.
You can see one of the two locating dowls in the following picture just above the drive shaft.
You can now refit the bell housing bolts and tighten them in sequence to pull the engine and gearbox together. Again, this should go fairly easily. Do not use the bolts to force them together as you could damage the clutch.
You can now refit the gearbox mount and support beam which will allow the subframe to bear the weight of the gearbox and engine once more.
Now refit the coolant pipes, oil cooler, slave cylinder and any other items that you have removes or disconnected, and remember to torque all bolts as specified in the manual.
Refit the nearside drive shaft (The book recommends that you fit a new spring clip), ensuring it is pushed fully into place and refit the suspension components that you disconnected. Suspension components should be torqued to the correct values while taking the weight of the engine, so you will have to do this once the engine and subframe are fitted to the car and it is off the axle stands.
Don't forget to refil the gearbox with Castrol SMX-S or similar
Gearbox Oil Fill how to
You should now have a new, fully functioning clutch.
Please feel free to add to this or let me know if you find any errors.