Cost of treating Subframes? - Page 2 - MG-Rover.org Forums

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post #21 of 29 (permalink) Old 23-04-2012, 19:58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Bell View Post
Subframes unfortunately DO fail - but usually out of sight of the MoT tester:



This one had multiple perforations along the front-most cross member too. Not good.

Mostly they surface rust, but I agree with Nigel, prevention is better than the cure. Shame that prevention costs so much - probably not worth doing, unless you're planning major suspension work, or a clutch change - or similar.
Nothing a bit of newspaper and filler won't sort

Only joking! that's a pretty serious fail though
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post #22 of 29 (permalink) Old 23-04-2012, 20:05
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Originally Posted by The Blue Vroom View Post
I was thinking of just sanding it a little and painting it with hammerite. Wouldn't that work just as well?
I do hope so because this is exactly what I'm doing Saying that not using hammerite though, waxoyling them both
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post #23 of 29 (permalink) Old 23-04-2012, 20:06
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Paulcav just had his done but he did all the stripping etc himself.

Drop him a pm for the costs of blasting and powder coating.
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post #24 of 29 (permalink) Old 23-04-2012, 20:10
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I've just broken my subframe, and I bought a bare subframe it is in good condition, but now that I have it bare in the shed I should do some kind of work? I was just planning to paint it with dynitrol...
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post #25 of 29 (permalink) Old 23-04-2012, 20:32
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The rear subframe on my Trophy was bent and rusty. In 2010, I brought a complete subframe with all the suspension parts for £25!

Dismantled, stripped (using heatgun, wirebrushes, etc) and 8etch primed, and hammerited the subframe, it took over a month.
The labour cost of changing the rear subframe was £500, but I had a bit of welding, new clutch and arm, new cat, polybushes, new front wishbones, droplink, etc all replaced at the same time. Since then, I have had the hydragas units replaced, as well as cambelt and head gasket etc.

I do clean and waxoyled all crevises underneath the car every winter, the MOT inspector was impressed!
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post #26 of 29 (permalink) Old 24-04-2012, 05:11
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I'm fortunate in that I have other car(s) to drive whilst my F is up on axle stands. As I'm still trying to source a TF 160 engine I'm in no rush to finish my car, so can spend some time sorting my subframes properly.

Yes the costs for stripping/treating/painting aint cheap, coupled with poly bushing, replacing ball joints, new calipers, brake pipes etc. But with both subframes done this way I should have trouble free motoring for next few years, plus I'll know exactly what I've got under the car

Oh and whilst the subframes out, replace all the bolts and fit the solid type subframe mounts

Allan
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post #27 of 29 (permalink) Old 24-04-2012, 21:32
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I decent second hand unit would prob be more cost effective then treat it yourself before fitting.
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post #28 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-11-2012, 23:50
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Don't get involved in paint - unless you remove ALL traces of rust it will be back in no time. scrape off all flaky rust ( a file ground to a chisel point is ideal) then waxoyl it thickly inside and out with black waxoyl.
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post #29 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-11-2012, 08:09
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Just had mine done in Birmingham.. £90 for the pair.. Including priming

110% rust free... You can't sand every inch by hand.. And would take forever..

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