Last weekend I started the process of dropping the engine and subframe out so that I could do the timing belts, fit a new HG and AP racing clutch etc etc.
First thing I did was remove the rear bumper: Rear bumper removal.
Once this was done I could remove the exhaust finshers, backbox and cat. This shows some of the steps: How to - Fitting a new exhaust.
Once the exhaust was out I could get access to the heat shield under the boot. The 10mm bolts were well rusted and I ended up having to drill one of the bolts out.
The next step was to disconnect as many physical connections between the engine/subframe and the body. This was just done by looking around and seeing what connections there are.
This was the order I did it in, but I don't really think the order is important.
I disconnected the coolant pipe that connects to the expansion tank, via the T-piece. It might be an idea to label these connections if you aren't sure where they go.
The fuel connections were next. These simply come apart by pressing in the black ring at the end of the connector and pulling it away from the pipe. Be careful to ensure that the ignition is not turned on as the line will be pressurised. You will lose a bit of petrol anyway, so be prepared.
There is also the fuel return line below the feed. It is a green connector, but works in the same way as the red feed connector.
You will lose a lot of fuel from this one, so have a way of blanking it off. I had some spare tube of the right size, some bolts and some double sided sticky tape.
The throttle cable and vacuum pipe to the evap canister were next. The vacuum pipe simply pulls off (1). If you unclip the adjuster from the bracket and open the throttle body fully by hand you can unloop and then unclip the cable (2).
I then disconnected the tube from the airbox to the throttle body. I also removed the airbox to give a bit more room.
The vacuum tube that supplies the brakes was removed from the inlet manifold next. Press in the red plastic ring while pulling the tube (it says black on the pic, oops).
Another vacuum connection that needs to be disconnected is the supply to the Emmisions valve on the offside exhaust.
Before removing the engine we also need to drain the coolant.
The best place to do this is at the front end of the underfloor coolant pipes. Remove the clips by pressing the ends together and sliding them along the pipe away from the connection. The rubber hose will be stuck on the metal pipe after years of sitting in place. I loosened them by gripping them with mole grips, or similar, and turning until the seal is broken.
Rather than pulling the hose straight off and getting soaked I slid a screwdriver down the inside of the hose to create a small bleed.
Looks like I hit an artery though.
Now just leave that to drain. Check once in a while to make sure that the container doesn't overflow.
Be careful as it is easy to get the coolant in your eyes. Obviously I didn't, being the professional that I is. I said I didn't, right.
And it stings, er, or so I heard somewhere.
You can aid the draining by opening the bleed points.
There is one at the top nearside of the radiator. Be very careful when opening this one as it is only plastic and often shears off. If it does shear off then one of the ways to remove the remaining threaded portion is to heat up a screwdriver end to F hot and melt it into the plastic bolt, let it cool and screw it out.
While you are under the bonnet, remove the plastic cover on the bulkhead and you will see another bleed point for the heater matrix. Make sure that you have the heater set to hot to allow the coolant to drain.
And one in the engine compartment, above the starter motor.
While the coolant is draining I decided to disconnect the rear brakes.
To disconnect the handbrake cables from the rear brakes you need to remove the R clip from the pin and then remove it. The pin holds the cable end to the brake. It has been on there a while and will not give up easily. Soak in plenty of easing oil (be careful not to get on brakes) and apply pressure from behind to foce it out. I put a large nut over the head and put molegrips over it. I didn't take a picture, but I can explain in detail if ever anyone needs me to.
The cable is held into a bracket by a large square clip. This can be levered, or forced off with a screwdriver. The cable can then be removed and left to hang loose.
Next comes the hydraulic hoses.
I started by clamping the hoses to minimise brake fluid loss, and then undid and removed the banjo bolts.
Once the hoses are removed replace the bolts to keep the dirt out of the brake system and tie the hoses out of harms way.
While we are under the car, the gear linkages need to be disconnected.
There are 2 of them. One is connected to a cable that comes from under the car, and the other comes from over the top of the engine and around the back.
The cables are held in place by large square clips. These can be forced off with a chisel or screwdriver by knocking them downwards.
The connectors can just be levered off with a screwdriver. It might take 2 though, one each side of the linkage.
Once the connectors are removed the cables can be slid back (might need gentle persuation) until the narrow point of the cable lines up with the cutout. The cable can then be removed.
The cables now hang loose. Keep an eye on them when dropping the subframe, or tie them out of the way so that they don't get crushed.
Next we will tackle some of the electrical connections.
First thing to do would be to disconnect the battery. Make sure you have unlocked the doors and know your radio code etc.
I just disconnect the negative lead, but if you want to disconnect the pos then feel free, but NEVER disconnect the pos without disconnecting the neg first.
Ooh, think those lugs need a bit of Vaseline on them. That's the only reason I have it, honest.
Once that is done, we can start disconnecting.
First comes the starter motor. It is just below where the airbox used to be.
The meter is there as I have a habit of checking that all electrical connections are dead before working on them. I know I disconnected the battery, but it is an electrician thing.