Fitting a 4-2-1 Manifold - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #1 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-03-2008, 22:18 Thread Starter
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Fitting a 4-2-1 Manifold

Well, last sunday, I fitted my 4-2-1 Stainless Steel manifold.

For those of you that don't know why or what a 4-2-1 manifold is, it is a performance modification to allow exhaust gasses flow more easily away from the engine. It normally consists of 4 of the same length tubes which are then merged into 2 tubes, which are then merged into one (hence the 4-2-1 name). It is also designed with the least bends and restrictions possible. In comparison, the original manifold goes from 4 tubes to 1 in a very short length, causing a bit more turbulence and restriction.


The following picture shows the difference.



I was fairly dissapointed to find a couple of nasty welds on the inside of the new manifold.



But nothing a Dremmel couldn't sort out, Eh MyRomeo?



After removing the engine inspection panel and reversing up onto the ramps, the first thing I did was remove the heatshield.



Which exposes the top end of the manifold and the 5 nuts that join it to the cylinder head.



Before I removed these, I removed the O2 sensor below the manifold and unclipped the wire from the engine securing clip



The plug for the O2 sensor (On the MG TF160) is clipped on the cam cover



The O2 sensor end unclips and withdraws. The loom end of the clip rotates 45 degrees and withdraws. You will need to disconnect this from the cam cover as the O2 sensor will not reach once in it's new location.



The 6 bolts securing the bottom half of the downpipe from manifold. The 2 furthest right bolts are a bit of a mare as the pipes are in the way



And the end of the downpipe/flexipipe from the cat. Nice new cat saver nuts.



This just leaves the manifold now.



Undo the 5 nuts that hold the manifold onto the engine. There is a gasket between the manifold and head.



Attached Images
File Type: jpg Manifold 01.jpg (75.1 KB, 1938 views)
File Type: jpg Manifold 02.jpg (52.5 KB, 1737 views)
File Type: jpg Manifold 02a.jpg (79.6 KB, 1736 views)
File Type: jpg Manifold 02b.jpg (57.7 KB, 1769 views)
File Type: jpg Manifold 03.jpg (64.7 KB, 1793 views)
File Type: jpg Manifold 04.jpg (75.7 KB, 1728 views)
File Type: jpg Manifold 05.jpg (65.1 KB, 1713 views)
File Type: jpg Manifold 06.jpg (67.0 KB, 1725 views)
File Type: jpg Manifold 07.jpg (56.5 KB, 1891 views)
File Type: jpg Manifold 07a.jpg (63.9 KB, 1992 views)

Last edited by CJJ; 06-02-2017 at 18:17.
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post #2 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-03-2008, 22:32 Thread Starter
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Unfortunately, as is often the case, when you undo the nuts holding the manifold to the head, it is normally the stud that comes out. Don't worry as they are fairly easy to put back in. For those of you who are experienced engine people, look away now

If you take a stud, place a nut on the manifold end, and then, holding that nut with a spanner, tighten another nut up against it.



And this will leave you with your stud looking like this



You can then tighten the stud back into the head. Do not overtighten as the head is aluminium and it can be easy to strip the threads.



To release the nuts, simply huld the inner nut with a spanner and loosen the outer nut. They should now both be easy to remove, leaving the stud in place.

The studs are now back in place and we can see the space where the manifold used to be.



Now fit the new gasget over the studs ready for the new manifold.



Now comes the easy part, yeah right, believe that and you believe anything. I spent at least 2 hours trying this way and that to get the new manifold in from the top. It will not go. I removed the alternator heatshield and bracket, I even removed the new alternator to give a little more room. Still no joy.

I then decided to go in from underneath the car. Nope. Oil filter was in the way. Banged my head against the ground. Nope, that didn't help either.

Bit the bullet and dumped the oil and removed the oil filter. This gave just enough room so that I could get the manifold jammed in a position I couldn't get it in or out. Banged my head a bit more.

Eventually I decided to use a lever against the oil filter housing to move the engine block back a little to give me more clearance. Before anyone tells me I shouldn't have levered there, I was moments away from removing the engine with my teeth, so it was the lesser of two weavils.



So, after a little gentle persuasion, the manifold was put in place and the nuts tightened. The alternator/heatshield was replaced and a new oil filter fitted.



And lastly the heatshield goes back on

Attached Images
File Type: jpg Manifold 08.jpg (70.9 KB, 1863 views)
File Type: jpg Manifold 09.jpg (45.2 KB, 1704 views)
File Type: jpg Manifold 10.jpg (53.0 KB, 1700 views)
File Type: jpg Manifold 11.jpg (37.5 KB, 1703 views)
File Type: jpg Manifold 12.jpg (59.2 KB, 1708 views)
File Type: jpg Manifold 13.jpg (71.7 KB, 1711 views)
File Type: jpg Manifold 13a.jpg (80.8 KB, 1702 views)
File Type: jpg Manifold 14.jpg (70.5 KB, 1701 views)
File Type: jpg Manifold 15.jpg (76.4 KB, 1749 views)
File Type: jpg Manifold 15a.jpg (59.6 KB, 1706 views)

Last edited by CJJ; 06-02-2017 at 18:26.
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post #3 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-03-2008, 23:12 Thread Starter
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The only other bits left to connect are the O2 sensor and the flexi section.

I tried fitting the O2 sensor before fitting the manifold, it just got in the way and was in danger of getting damaged. I fitted it once the manifold was in place. This was a mistake as well, due to the lack of clearance. I would recommend fitting it after you have got the manifold in place, but before you tighten it onto the head.

The new position for the post cat sensor is now to the rear of the engine, very close to a drive shaft.



You can now fit the flexi section between the manifold pipe and the cat. The manifolt side fits inside each other and a hollow round clip fits over, When tightened it pulls the 2 sections together. The cat end just connects using the 3 normal bolts and nuts.



The O2 plug now connects somewhere down below the throttle body, leaving a small rectangular hole in the cam cover where it used to be. Might seal it up sometime.



And, apart from putting all the bits you have taken off back on, that is the manifold fitted.

If anyone tells you this is a 2 hour job, laugh at them in a knowing way.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Manifold 16.jpg (80.1 KB, 1795 views)
File Type: jpg Manifold 17.jpg (65.5 KB, 1686 views)
File Type: jpg Manifold 17a.jpg (63.1 KB, 1748 views)
File Type: jpg Manifold 18.jpg (77.8 KB, 49 views)

Last edited by CJJ; 06-02-2017 at 18:30.
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post #4 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-03-2008, 23:16
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most impressive...
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post #5 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-03-2008, 23:48
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Thanks for the 'how to' have you noticed any improvements since fitting it?
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post #6 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-03-2008, 23:49
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Nice one CJJ.

You never fail to impress with your fantastic write ups and pictures. You seem willing to take on any job regardless of what it is.

Keep up the excellant work and let us know what difference the manifold has made?

Thanks,
Ian.
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post #7 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-03-2008, 23:50 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darrelbmad View Post
Thanks for the 'how to' have you noticed any improvements since fitting it?
Yes. I noticed a bit of an improvement midrange.
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post #8 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-03-2008, 23:58 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by HotTubRepairer View Post
Nice one CJJ.

You never fail to impress with your fantastic write ups and pictures. You seem willing to take on any job regardless of what it is.

Keep up the excellant work and let us know what difference the manifold has made?

Thanks,
Ian.
Cheers mate.

World peace is a bit of a sticking point at the minute. Once I've finished the supercharger, who knows?
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post #9 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-03-2008, 00:26
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Quote:
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Cheers mate.

World peace is a bit of a sticking point at the minute. Once I've finished the supercharger, who knows?
World peace is easy CJJ, all you need is to kill the evil ones with great big guns.... actually come to think of it, that's not actually going to be peaceful is it


I keep an eye on your SC thread, its certainly a tricky one that.
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post #10 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-03-2008, 08:21
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lmao that looks like i've written that how too lol...... pretty much exactly how i did mine mate inc the head banging the only difference was i removed the engine mount bolt under the car and left the filter in place, this allowed the engine to be rocked much easier but i still got the bloody thing stuck where i couldnt get it in or out lol......pretty much used the same gentle persuation

Nice one mate well done
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post #11 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-03-2008, 08:35
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have you thought about going into print CJJ
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post #12 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-03-2008, 08:46
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Quote:
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have you thought about going into print CJJ
Great idea

I can just see us going into a shop asking for the CJJ Manual for the TF
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post #13 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-03-2008, 09:50 Thread Starter
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Nah. Print is so yesterday. A nice interactive DVD with an upbeat backing track like "I will survive" or "Ain't no stopping us now".
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post #14 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-03-2008, 10:06
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That's a nice write up CJJ . Answers a number of questions I had in my mind. Doubtless Pete will be linking it so that I can find it again when I need to.
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post #15 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-03-2008, 10:19
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There is also now a sticky at the top of this forum containing links (all CJJ's at the mo) to how-to guides on this site.
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post #16 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-03-2008, 10:32
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Thanks for puttig that up there Chris, it cerainly makes it much easier to find them now.
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post #17 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-03-2008, 10:33
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nice writeup once again mate. good work with the dremel
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post #18 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-03-2008, 10:36 Thread Starter
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Don't think there will be many more major ones at the minute, unless it fails it's MOT on monday. Need to concentrate my money on the other engine now .
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post #19 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-03-2008, 10:37
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There is also now a sticky at the top of this forum containing links (all CJJ's at the mo) to how-to guides on this site.
Ah yes, spotted that but hadn't viewed it. Top Job Chris

As the list gets a little longer it might be worth changing the link titles to put the subject first. eg MIL Eliminator - Fitting.
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post #20 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-03-2008, 11:05
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Nice work - the same manifold and procedure I followed when fitting the same manifold to Matt's car back along.
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