Fitting Front Poly Bushes on a TF 'How To' - do as much as I can remember... - MG-Rover.org Forums
 
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 23-02-2011, 14:27 Thread Starter
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Fitting Front Poly Bushes on a TF 'How To' - do as much as I can remember...

I may well have missed out some bits here, but they will be ovbious bits, feel free to add advice from one and all!
This job entails removing the subframe to be able to remove the wishbones.
If I have any wrong phraseology or am just calling things by the wrong name, please shout out, im no mechanic, just over enthusiastic.

First step is jack the car up, people suggest four axle stands, I only had two I trusted so only jacked up the front of the car, mounting axle stands on the jacking points, and jacking the car from the sub frame. Do not try to jack the car the either side of the jacking points as the crease in the weld is the only strong point. May be tricky with anything over a two ton trolly jack as you struggle to get them under the car, I had a two ton as well as a 10, but used a small jack out of another car, but you will figure out a way.

Once the car is jacked up onto axle stands, remove wheels, front bumper (may not be neccesary), and begin making sure that all bolts you will be removing are well and truly covered in whatever releasing chemical you choose.
I used 'Frost Bite', its all I could get my hands on, people on this forum suggest PlusGas to be the best.

Photo I took earlier in the day while fitting my TTmk4 at a friends garage, sadly didnt have use of the ramps for this job tho...
So, soak the nuts and bolts, heat a bit if you wish, I didnt.
Blue = Main subframe bolts from underneath, give them a good few soakings, the ones at the front get pretty rusty, the ones toward the rear snap easy. The ones at the rear have a small gap in the weld at the courners of the square mounting area on the main chassis, I managed to get the nozzle of my spray can in there and really soak the heck out of the nuts and bolts from the rear, I really think it helped.

There are two bolts either side at the front and four at the rear, one on each side also holds the cross struts in place, and these struts have one bolt in the middle that needs undoing also.

Red = These two have two bolts each, they hold the bushes for the anti roll bar, take them off and leave that off till you put it all back together.
Pink = this is how you get at the Bolt for the front half of the wish bone, one side was covered in tape, I guess to help keep out some water and dirt.

Before you start to undo anything on the subframe though, let that soak a bit while you do the following:
Inside the car, disconnect the steering column

I also changed my track rod ends at the same time, but undo those


Now, im pretty sure at this point I was sent to make a round of teas, but im sure next you disconnect roll bar linkage, then the wishbone from the main hub, quite a tricky job, I was later told that it works best by using a small jack to jack them apart, I shoved a crow bar in and twisted and moved it all about and they came out after a couple of minutes. One of my bolts snapped, it was one that I had not used any chemicals on, I managed to get a local company to let me have one for a pound, worth spraying the heck out of everything.
The whole thing will be hangin loosely, tie it up so you dont damage anything or pull the break pipes too much.
As far as I can remember thats all we did in there, then we started on the subframe, but you will see if I have missed anything, the wishbone should be free apart from the front subframe end.


This is a closeup of the front subframe, I found I only had to loosen these, most of the way mind, but its a backup to keep at least that end of the subframe in the air.

So the theory is, everything is apart other than the back end of the sub frame, so get under the car, give them a final drenching and keep your fingers crossed that you are as lucky as I was, especially considering how rusty the underside of my car is...
Once the bolt in the middle of the struts is undone, make sure you have your jacks holding the subframe in place, one on each side of the car, taking the weight a little before you start undoing so you dont put excessive strain on the remaining bolts, undo the bolts and lower the subframe a small amount, check that I have not missed anything and it is indeed lowering freely.
Just a note - the hoses to the radiator and other bits are fine as they are, you dont need to move the subframe enough to disturb them.
This is what you should end up with:

You can now remove the bolts holding the wish bones in, there are two for each side.
Once you have done that, get them in a vice and hammer out the old ones, I had no difficulty at all getting them out, probably why I was doing this job tho...

To get the new bushes back in, I used the vice to pop them in place, use lots of the supplied lube, then inserted the stainless tube, lots of lube again, and to get it in the rest of the way I put it in the vice with a socket piece at the other end till it was flush.
NOTE - each wishbone has two sizes of bushes, smaller and larger for either end, make sure you compare what you took out and put back in to make sure you dont make any mistakes.
Once its back together, put the wishbone back into the subframe, I found this a bugger of a job, in the end I got a small ratchet strap and fed it round the wishbone and subframe and pulled it into place, you may find your bushes have more room tho and its not a problem for you.

Basically stick it all back together now, the bushes for the anti roll bar is a doddle, they dont even need explaining, make sure you put the steering column back on last so you can make sure its on straight.

Get you tracking done, even more so for me as I changed the track rod ends also, but just get it done, at least checked, if nothing needs doing they dont charge normally.

Hope I havent missed anything glaringly obvious, shout out if I have!
My car is rusty isnt it? Its on the list of jobs in the summer, going to see if my little compressor can handle a small sandblater nozzle and then paint it all... Hope this helps someone a bit! (Not the bit about the sandblasting, I mean the other ramblings)

Last edited by MaxDesign; 23-02-2011 at 17:12.
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 23-02-2011, 16:42
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to be honest if there that rusty they might be rusting from the inside as well so id replace then with new ones
cot about 120 for both so you wont have to replace for about 8 years

and saves stripping the thing down again
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 23-02-2011, 17:38
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Top job Max! Have you felt a significant difference with the handling?
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 23-02-2011, 19:59 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGF MARK View Post
to be honest if there that rusty they might be rusting from the inside as well so id replace then with new ones
cot about 120 for both so you wont have to replace for about 8 years
and saves stripping the thing down again
Yea, hope to sort the underside out in the summer, now I have done it once I recon it should be easier. Just gotta budget myself...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin20 View Post
Top job Max! Have you felt a significant difference with the handling?
I had lots of trouble with the handling over ridges in the road, really yanked me about, did the tracking too once I completed this job and I think it stiffened it up no end. Bit bumpier with am happy with the results. Feels tougher and more stable.
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