Fitting front upper ball joint - How to. - MG-Rover.org Forums
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rating: Thread Rating: 9 votes, 5.00 average. Display Modes
post #1 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-09-2011, 09:25 Thread Starter
CJJ
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Ashington, Northumberland
Car: MGTF 160, TF LE500, Nissan Leaf, KTM 990, Kangoo Van, Freelander 2.
Posts: 33,143
Fitting front upper ball joint - How to.

The front upper ball joint is part of the suspension and steering setup and is quite an important part in the general handling of the car.

The ball joint is screwed into the top of the hub and connected to the lower suspension arm. It allows the hub to move up and down and steer left and right.



Symptoms of a failed ball joint are the cars handling feels strange, such as wandering etc, a knocking noise when going over bumps etc, or in my case a loud squealing/squeaking when steering and going over bumps.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IfBPpxT3JUk

One of the best ways to diagnose it is to put the car up on axle stands, remove the wheel and try and check for play and see if you can see where the clunk/squeak is coming from.

To change the ball joint you need to raise the car



and place on axle stands



remove the wheel (It is best to loosen the wheel nuts before raising the wheel off the floor.)





Clean the top threads with a wire brush or bush attachment on a drill. Try and get as much rust and dirt off as possible.



and add some release oil to the ball joint threads. Try not to get it on the brake components.



Use a jack to take the weight of the hub and compress it slightly.



Hammer on a 19mm spanner



And hammer a Torx key into the recess at the top of the bolt. It may also be an Allen key, or there may be no recess in which case you may need to cut the nut off or use a nut splitter.



Remove the top nut



Using a hammer and chisel, unfold the locking washer.



Now separate the suspension arm from the ball joint using a ball joint splitter. You might get away with a sharp tap of the hammer, but usually they are well seized on.



Now lower the hub and slide the threaded portion out of the hole in the suspension arm. You may need a bit of levering.



Tie the hub off with a strop or similar as the hub will swing away and pull on the flexible brake pipe.



Now hammer a 1 - 13/16” socket onto the ball joint. I found it easier to use my 12V impact driver to loosen the ball joint.



And then finish off with a ratchet driver.



Remove the ball joint.



Check that the new ball joint is the same physical size as the old one.



Unusually the new ball joint doesn’t have any type of key recess in the top of the bolt, unlike the old one which has a Torx recess. This will make it difficult to remove in the future and will probably need the nut to be cut off.

Clean the threads of the new ball joint



And add some thread lock.



Fit the lock washer and new joint and finger tighten.



Now torque the ball joint to 105Nm.



And hammer over the edges of the lock tab, one edge up and one edge down so that the joint cannot come free.





Now feed the bolt up through the hole in the suspension arm



Fit the nyloc nut and tighten to 54Nm





The job is now completed. Refit the road wheel, remove the axle stands and lower the car.

Check the car steers correctly and then take the car for a test drive to ensure everything is working properly.
CJJ is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-09-2011, 09:33
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: North Norfolk
Car: MG TF 160 in Trophy Yellow
Posts: 47,846
nice job as usual Clive
Petevick is offline  
post #3 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-09-2011, 09:41
Hobbyist
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Nr St Neots Cambridgeshire
Car: MG TF 160, ZR 2.0 Diesel
Posts: 13,647
Top job Clive

just one thing,

And hammer over the edges of the lock tab, one edge up and one edge down so that the joint cannot come free.

Your pic shows both up??



COPPERKNOB is offline  
 
post #4 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-09-2011, 09:49
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: North Norfolk
Car: MG TF 160 in Trophy Yellow
Posts: 47,846
Quote:
Originally Posted by Copperknob View Post
Top job Clive

just one thing,

And hammer over the edges of the lock tab, one edge up and one edge down so that the joint cannot come free.

Your pic shows both up??



he's not wrong
Petevick is offline  
post #5 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-09-2011, 09:52
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sutton, Surrey
Car: MG TF 160 - Pearl Black
Posts: 4,443
Blog Entries: 8
Send a message via MSN to Kameleon
Quote:
Originally Posted by Petevick View Post
he's not wrong

First time for everything
Kameleon is offline  
post #6 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-09-2011, 10:00 Thread Starter
CJJ
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Ashington, Northumberland
Car: MGTF 160, TF LE500, Nissan Leaf, KTM 990, Kangoo Van, Freelander 2.
Posts: 33,143
Ooh, a group of smart rs's.

If you turn the car upside down then they are down.
CJJ is offline  
post #7 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-09-2011, 10:03 Thread Starter
CJJ
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Ashington, Northumberland
Car: MGTF 160, TF LE500, Nissan Leaf, KTM 990, Kangoo Van, Freelander 2.
Posts: 33,143
Alternatively, the side that is out of view could be hammered down.

The reason that there are 2 up is that I started one but couldn't get the angle to finish it properly (the untidy one), so I folded one that was more accessible.

The folded down one

CJJ is offline  
post #8 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-09-2011, 11:27
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Bedfordshire, UK
Car: MGF
Posts: 125
Excellent how-to Clive thank you.

I'm in the process of removing my mgf engine from its subframe but have hit a snag with the upper ball joint. When I try to undo the nut, the thread also turns. There is no recess and I don't want to grind the nut off unless I have to so I was going to drill and tap into the ball joint 'stud' and fit a bolt so I have something to undo the nut against. Any thoughts on this?

Paul
paulcav is offline  
post #9 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-09-2011, 11:35
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Kent & Herts
Car: TT MGF #0002
Posts: 13,615
Send a message via MSN to gotenks1321
Quote:
Originally Posted by paulcav View Post
Excellent how-to Clive thank you.

I'm in the process of removing my mgf engine from its subframe but have hit a snag with the upper ball joint. When I try to undo the nut, the thread also turns. There is no recess and I don't want to grind the nut off unless I have to so I was going to drill and tap into the ball joint 'stud' and fit a bolt so I have something to undo the nut against. Any thoughts on this?

Paul
Drill down the side of the nut and crack it off with a cold chisel and hammer
gotenks1321 is offline  
post #10 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-09-2011, 13:56 Thread Starter
CJJ
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Ashington, Northumberland
Car: MGTF 160, TF LE500, Nissan Leaf, KTM 990, Kangoo Van, Freelander 2.
Posts: 33,143
I think you will have to destroy the nut to get it off unless you are very lucky.
CJJ is offline  
post #11 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-09-2011, 14:39
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Bedfordshire, UK
Car: MGF
Posts: 125
Many thanks guys!
paulcav is offline  
post #12 of 50 (permalink) Old 04-09-2011, 12:21
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Newbiggin by the Sea
Car: MG TF 160 Sprint VVC Trophy Blue
Posts: 366
Quote:
Originally Posted by CJJ View Post
Symptoms of a failed ball joint are the cars handling feels strange, such as wandering etc, a knocking noise when going over bumps etc, or in my case a loud squealing/squeaking when steering and going over bumps.
My car steering feels strange at high speed and it knocks at the front when going over speed humps.
Took the car in for an MOT last week, which it passed no problem ,which came as a surprise knowing there was a knocking at the front and expected a ball joint or something to be the cause. The MOT tester said he had noticed the knocking and had checked and double checked everything but couldn't see any movement at all where there shouldn't be any.
My question is Clive was the ball joint obviously knackered i.e lots of free play etc and has changing these ball joints cured the knocking problem.
Paul Hindmarsh is offline  
post #13 of 50 (permalink) Old 04-09-2011, 12:33 Thread Starter
CJJ
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Ashington, Northumberland
Car: MGTF 160, TF LE500, Nissan Leaf, KTM 990, Kangoo Van, Freelander 2.
Posts: 33,143
No free play mate, just the squeal.

I had knocking at the front too and it was down to the rubber bush at the bottom of the shock absorber.

Put the car on axle stands, remove the wheel and try and sharply lift the hub.
CJJ is offline  
post #14 of 50 (permalink) Old 04-09-2011, 14:20
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Bergen, Norway
Car: 1999 MGF 1.8 mpi
Posts: 1,322
Send a message via MSN to MGFNorway
Thank you Clive! Excellent how to! Bookmarked.
MGFNorway is offline  
post #15 of 50 (permalink) Old 04-09-2011, 15:19
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Newbiggin by the Sea
Car: MG TF 160 Sprint VVC Trophy Blue
Posts: 366
Quote:
Originally Posted by CJJ View Post
No free play mate, just the squeal.

I had knocking at the front too and it was down to the rubber bush at the bottom of the shock absorber.

Put the car on axle stands, remove the wheel and try and sharply lift the hub.
Cheers for the advise Clive .Will give it ago next weekend.
Just looked on Rimmer Bros site to see if the bushes can be bought separate but doesn't look like it.
Are these the ball joints you bought.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3504842851...84.m1423.l2649
Paul Hindmarsh is offline  
post #16 of 50 (permalink) Old 04-09-2011, 16:46 Thread Starter
CJJ
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Ashington, Northumberland
Car: MGTF 160, TF LE500, Nissan Leaf, KTM 990, Kangoo Van, Freelander 2.
Posts: 33,143
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Hindmarsh View Post
Cheers for the advise Clive .Will give it ago next weekend.
Just looked on Rimmer Bros site to see if the bushes can be bought separate but doesn't look like it.
Are these the ball joints you bought.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3504842851...84.m1423.l2649
Similar. I bought these ones.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2508483006...84.m1439.l2649
CJJ is offline  
post #17 of 50 (permalink) Old 27-05-2012, 18:57
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: S.E. Northumberland
Car: MGless, Sherman the B Series Frontera
Posts: 1,117
Glad this was here looks like its a job I'll now need to do, managed to get the nut off the old one when I was taking the hub out to change the lower ball joint, but now the damned thing won't go back on and it doesn't have the recess.

Although looking at it the thread on the nut maybe goosed, either way I'm thinking it could be easier to just replace the thing, but 46mm isn't one of the sizes I keep Need to find one of those as well now!
Mav666 is offline  
post #18 of 50 (permalink) Old 27-05-2012, 23:24 Thread Starter
CJJ
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Ashington, Northumberland
Car: MGTF 160, TF LE500, Nissan Leaf, KTM 990, Kangoo Van, Freelander 2.
Posts: 33,143
I have the tools if you want to borrow them. I also have a 12v inpact wrench which makes short work of removing them.
CJJ is offline  
post #19 of 50 (permalink) Old 29-05-2012, 12:05 Thread Starter
CJJ
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Ashington, Northumberland
Car: MGTF 160, TF LE500, Nissan Leaf, KTM 990, Kangoo Van, Freelander 2.
Posts: 33,143
Good to meet you Paul. Another ball joint falls before the might of the 12V impact driver.
CJJ is offline  
post #20 of 50 (permalink) Old 29-05-2012, 15:35
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: S.E. Northumberland
Car: MGless, Sherman the B Series Frontera
Posts: 1,117
Very successful morning Clive, thank you very much for calling down with the gear to do the job, and yep that ball joint didn't stand a chance against the 12V Impact!

Car is all back together now and the new cat is on, retest booked for 3pm tomorrow, so here's hoping it was the cat and not the lambda, but I guess I'll find out tomorrow

Old ball joint destroyed and new one ready to go on...
Mav666 is offline  
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the MG-Rover.org Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Linear Mode Linear Mode
Rate This Thread:



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Trouble removing the upper front ball joint on TF xsduk MGF and MGTF (Sponsored by MGFnTFBITZ) 20 03-11-2012 18:13
Upper front ball joint... XR219 Rover 600 9 24-04-2011 22:36
Front upper ball joint socket size??? jimhorton1982 Metro / Rover 100 3 28-06-2010 20:14
Upper ball joint Chris T MGF and MGTF (Sponsored by MGFnTFBITZ) 9 21-07-2007 16:20
upper ball joint dreaddan Others 5 17-05-2006 07:49

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome