Fitting front upper ball joint - How to. - Page 2 - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #21 of 50 (permalink) Old 29-05-2012, 16:52 Thread Starter
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Keep my fingers crossed for ya.
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post #22 of 50 (permalink) Old 16-06-2012, 13:49
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Did mine today, thanks clive good how to

I even tightened to the correct torque which is unusual for me

getting the old one off was a struggle even using my dads air impact gun, i think someone had been a bit over happy with the thread lock
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post #23 of 50 (permalink) Old 16-06-2012, 15:19 Thread Starter
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Did mine today, thanks clive good how to

I even tightened to the correct torque which is unusual for me

getting the old one off was a struggle even using my dads air impact gun, i think someone had been a bit over happy with the thread lock
No more creaking?

At least you will get a better trade in when you get your TF.
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post #24 of 50 (permalink) Old 24-03-2014, 13:34
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I'm replacing my ball joints but it looks like I need to buy an impact wrench, before I do is there enough room to get a cordless into the rear arches to use on the ball joint? I don't want to buy the new 610Nm 'Toy' only to find its too big.....
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post #25 of 50 (permalink) Old 24-03-2014, 16:30
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Originally Posted by Reaper View Post
I'm replacing my ball joints but it looks like I need to buy an impact wrench, before I do is there enough room to get a cordless into the rear arches to use on the ball joint? I don't want to buy the new 610Nm 'Toy' only to find its too big.....
Went home, jacked up the car and put a regular cordless in to check the available space, and I'm happy the new one should fit. So I've ordered my new impact wrench and will wait in anticipation!
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post #26 of 50 (permalink) Old 24-03-2014, 20:00 Thread Starter
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Sorry mate, just seen this, been working on mine today.

Clearance shouldn't be an issue, just be careful when using it. If it is difficult to undo and you don't have a good grip on the impact driver it can spin out of your hand and could possibly dent the bodywork from the inside. I only know this because it nearly happened to me.
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post #27 of 50 (permalink) Old 24-03-2014, 21:08
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Sorry mate, just seen this, been working on mine today.

Clearance shouldn't be an issue, just be careful when using it. If it is difficult to undo and you don't have a good grip on the impact driver it can spin out of your hand and could possibly dent the bodywork from the inside. I only know this because it nearly happened to me.
Thanks for the heads up, although I'd hope the one I ordered has a clutch to stop me spinning around with it.... Got me thinking now!

http://www.onlinepowertools.co.uk/pr...-0ah-batteries

I have a 3' breaker bar to try tomorrow, but failing that It will have to wait for the new toy. I had to cut down the ball joints thread with a grinder because they were too tall for the deep socket, so I have to do it now! Although there are enough threads to get it onto a trailer if needs be...!

Another great how too btw might have to create a book, not a Haynes manual but a CJJ... Far more useful!
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post #28 of 50 (permalink) Old 24-03-2014, 21:19 Thread Starter
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I don't know. 300+ for the impact driver and you can't afford one of these?



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post #29 of 50 (permalink) Old 24-03-2014, 21:24
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I don't know. 300+ for the impact driver and you can't afford one of these?



That's the one I bought! On the rear ball joints it's not deep enough
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post #30 of 50 (permalink) Old 24-03-2014, 21:34 Thread Starter
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I wonder if you can buy deeper ones.
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post #31 of 50 (permalink) Old 25-03-2014, 12:12
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I wonder if you can buy deeper ones.
Speaking to some garages it seem that they 'customise' the one that we have by wielding a small cut down knuckle bar or socket to it.

I did find a 6" deep 46mm socket.... however its for oil rigs.... and they didn't state the price.
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post #32 of 50 (permalink) Old 25-03-2014, 12:39 Thread Starter
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They might not sell you it in case you go round undoing oil rigs.
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post #33 of 50 (permalink) Old 25-03-2014, 13:52
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That's the one I bought! On the rear ball joints it's not deep enough
How strange as that is the same as one I bought and used to change the O/S/R one on "Blue 33".
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post #34 of 50 (permalink) Old 25-03-2014, 14:19
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How strange as that is the same as one I bought and used to change the O/S/R one on "Blue 33".
On an F? If so the F has the same top ball joints front and back but the TF has the same as the F on the front but taller ones on the rear.
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post #35 of 50 (permalink) Old 25-03-2014, 16:53
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I don't know. 300+ for the impact driver and you can't afford one of these?



I was considering buying one of these then remembered the effing big socket I bought to undo the rear hub on my Honda VFR. Same size! Yahoo!
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post #36 of 50 (permalink) Old 25-03-2014, 17:30
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On an F? If so the F has the same top ball joints front and back but the TF has the same as the F on the front but taller ones on the rear.
Maybe .................... I only have F's so cannot comment on the TF ball joints.
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post #37 of 50 (permalink) Old 30-04-2014, 12:21
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I wonder if you can buy deeper ones.
Here you go Clive

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291127274241

Out of interest are the two oblong locking plates not used? I'm guessing that they are for another vehicle application?
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post #38 of 50 (permalink) Old 30-04-2014, 16:30
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That's strange. I think I have the same socket as everyone else and mine fits over the ball pin. Surely the top joints are the same front and back TF or F. I've even machined the front off mine to get rid of the internal chamfer and get a fuller engagement with the rather thin nut on the ball joint. Its important to get the pin upright so that it just enters into the 1/2" square.

EDIT
Ah, just noticed, mine has 'Laser' written on it.
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post #39 of 50 (permalink) Old 30-04-2014, 17:59 Thread Starter
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Here you go Clive

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291127274241

Out of interest are the two oblong locking plates not used? I'm guessing that they are for another vehicle application?
Thanks for that. I think the squares are used on other cars.
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post #40 of 50 (permalink) Old 30-04-2014, 18:08
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For some reason the rear TF balljoint is taller with a plain section - see here
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3906901355...84.m1423.l2649

Guess it a geometry thing but makes the joint more expensive for sure !

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim. View Post
That's strange. I think I have the same socket as everyone else and mine fits over the ball pin. Surely the top joints are the same front and back TF or F. I've even machined the front off mine to get rid of the internal chamfer and get a fuller engagement with the rather thin nut on the ball joint. Its important to get the pin upright so that it just enters into the 1/2" square.

EDIT
Ah, just noticed, mine has 'Laser' written on it.
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