Fitting a modified Clutch Release Arm - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 14-04-2009, 19:34 Thread Starter
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Fitting a modified Clutch Release Arm

As those who have had their F/TF for a while will probably know, one of the pains that you have to go through is the clutch release arm seizing in the bell housing.

This shows itself by the clutch getting heavy, or the clutch slipping, and finally complete failure.

One solution is to regularly force oil and grease into the point where the arm enters the bell housing and work it until it frees up.

Another solution is to buy a modified clutch release arm from the likes of Mike Satur, for around 30, which has a grease nipple which feeds grease to the contact surfaces and prevents it from seizing.

This is a simple how to, mainly because my engine and gearbox are out of the car. Whether you can do this in the car I wouldn't like to guess. If it is possible you would have to seperate and rotate the gearbox, so that the release arm is pointing upwards.

Here is the standard release arm



And here we can see the clutch release fork, which is attached to the lever shaft by an M8 bolt.



Remove the M8 bolt and washer



and the lever pulls out.

You can see the standard and the modified arms side by side in this pic.



Slide the new release arm through the housing and through the fork. Refit the M8 bolt and clip the release bearing into place.



I didn't show the removal of the bearing in this how to because it is a brand new gearbox and didn't have one fitted.

Here is the finished item.





You can see from the position of the lever in the last diagram that you would not be able to pull it out while in the car as the bulkhead would get in the way. Also bear in mind that there are usually a lot of coolant pipes etc in that area too. I think it would be difficult to undo the fork in situ as well. However, there may be people out there who have done it and would like to share.

For the record, The new and the modified levers turned very easily with one finger. I was going to remove the old one from the orignal gearbox as a comparison, but it was seized solid.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 14-04-2009, 19:38
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 14-04-2009, 19:40
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nice work again CJJ
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 14-04-2009, 19:54
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Quote:
and the lever pulls out.
On a nice shiny new gearbox maybe, but on an old box with a seized arm it can be a bit more difficult and involve the use of a large hammer and lots of swearing
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 14-04-2009, 19:56
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Sounds like you have the been there done that tee-shirt Steve.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 14-04-2009, 19:57 Thread Starter
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Yep. see the last sentence. This is another reason it would be a pain to do in the car, getting good access for leverage and hammerage.

Maybe I should have put "and simply remove lever" in good old Haynes Manual style.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 15-04-2009, 09:22 Thread Starter
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So, has anyone fitted on of these with the box still in the car?
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-08-2010, 06:32
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How to remove old arm?

So i`ve now found that my clutch release arm is not working as it should i need to use a large bar to move it.... it does move but it should as you know be easyier to do than this... i understand that i need to :

1. remove clean and replace with grease.....

2. romove and replace with a new one.......

This is my problem how to remove the old in the possition its in, the gearbox has been moved same process for clutch removal but now need to get the arm out... does anyone have any ideas please any advice would be great

cheers chris
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-08-2010, 09:54 Thread Starter
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If you can get a large tube over the lever so that you can work it backards and forwards and at the same time get a large screwdriver or prybar under the arm and lever it out while moving it backwards and forwards. Also adding release oil to it every now and then.

Have you taken the bolt out of the fork?
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-08-2010, 13:50
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Originally Posted by chrisspider21 View Post
... does anyone have any ideas please any advice would be great

cheers chris
i needed a blow torch and a very large lump hammer and an hours braying to get mine out of pg1 (5 year old 160). I had to bray it so hard I thought the gerabox was going to explode! they can get very very stuck and need some serious persuasion!
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-08-2010, 13:54
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gear box out by the way, to make room for some big swings!!!
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-08-2010, 18:54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJJ View Post
As those who have had their F/TF for a while will probably know, one of the pains that you have to go through is the clutch release arm seizing in the bell housing.

This shows itself by the clutch getting heavy, or the clutch slipping, and finally complete failure.

One solution is to regularly force oil and grease into the point where the arm enters the bell housing and work it until it frees up.

Another solution is to buy a modified clutch release arm from the likes of Mike Satur, for around 30, which has a grease nipple which feeds grease to the contact surfaces and prevents it from seizing.

This is a simple how to, mainly because my engine and gearbox are out of the car. Whether you can do this in the car I wouldn't like to guess. If it is possible you would have to seperate and rotate the gearbox, so that the release arm is pointing upwards.

Here is the standard release arm



And here we can see the clutch release fork, which is attached to the lever shaft by an M8 bolt.



Remove the M8 bolt and washer



and the lever pulls out.

You can see the standard and the modified arms side by side in this pic.



Slide the new release arm through the housing and through the fork. Refit the M8 bolt and clip the release bearing into place.



I didn't show the removal of the bearing in this how to because it is a brand new gearbox and didn't have one fitted.

Here is the finished item.





You can see from the position of the lever in the last diagram that you would not be able to pull it out while in the car as the bulkhead would get in the way. Also bear in mind that there are usually a lot of coolant pipes etc in that area too. I think it would be difficult to undo the fork in situ as well. However, there may be people out there who have done it and would like to share.

For the record, The new and the modified levers turned very easily with one finger. I was going to remove the old one from the orignal gearbox as a comparison, but it was seized solid.
Awsome pics CCJ!

Just looking at the gearbox and clutch bell assembly.......is it possible to separate the two just by undoing the bolts closest to the passenger side and separate the two halves? Or are there more bolts that are only accessible from within the clutch bell? I have a slight (almost un-noticable) whine in 5th gear....as some point (perhaps years?) I'm guessing I'm going to have to fix it. I'm looking to see if I can seperate the box into as small parts as possible to aid remove & avoid removing the engine and sub-frame assembly.

Any advice would be cool
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-07-2012, 13:00
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Originally Posted by SHARKYMGF View Post
On a nice shiny new gearbox maybe, but on an old box with a seized arm it can be a bit more difficult and involve the use of a large hammer and lots of swearing
I've always found the swearing, cuts and bruised (hammer impacted) thumb and tears therapeutic - I thought that was the only reason that we ever do our own maintenance in the first place ;-)
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