front subframe mounts,fitting? - MG-Rover.org Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 23-04-2015, 13:13 Thread Starter
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Smile front subframe mounts,fitting?

just wanted an idea of whats involved in changing my front subframe mounts as one seems quiet rusty so will prob fail mot,got to change my down pipe at weekend,so thought id try do both jobs on the same day,so any hints/tips would be gratefully recieved
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 23-04-2015, 13:44
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Front wheels off, wheel arch liners off. Support car in a safe fashion etc.

You can reuse the big long bolt through the middle of the subframe mounts on either side - they all seemed to be in good condition when I did mine. When attempting to undo this, remember it has threadlock on and will be tough to get off unless heated up a bit (boiling water temp) with a hot air gun.

I'd replace the pair of M8s/subframe mount (or whatever they are) that hold the wings of the subframe mounts to the bodywork. They may be seized and may shear off. You don't want this. Squirt penetrating oil all around these two bolts (per subframe) well before you start.

Use a hex socket (as opposed to a twelve pointer) if possible to get a good grip on the heads. Don't put too much torque on them if they won't come. Instead, carefully use a gas burner to heat the area of each M8 up in turn to see if that loosens them.

If they do shear, it'll be centrepunch, cobalt drill time, drilling the broken shaft out and running a tap through to clear the threads - if you haven't damaged them drilling them out. You don't want this, like I said, so don't shear them off in the first place ;0)

I seem to recall that one of the M8s screws into a free nut, the other into a captive nut (you can see one easily, but not the inside one, it is obscured), so be aware of that.

By the way, I'm talking about the front subframe front mounts here - are you talking about the rear subframe front mounts? Slightly different, more complicated technique there (but still doable easily enough). There are different tips I can give you if you are on about the rear subframe front mounts.

The rear mounts on both the front and rear frames seem not to rust out, like the front mounts do.

Last edited by nocturneblue; 23-04-2015 at 13:50. Reason: clarification
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 23-04-2015, 13:59 Thread Starter
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hi thanks for the quick response,to clarify mine are the front ones i need to change,can i not put the car on ramps? or is it easier to remove wheels?
and is there anything i need to move out the way etc?
thanks
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 23-04-2015, 14:13
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I think it is easier with access from the wheel arch to be honest. You certainly get at the two M8s per mount from below. I would imagine you would be making life more difficult for yourself, but if anyone else on here has done this, I stand corrected. It may be possible, you can see the mounts from below. It depends on the clearance of the long M14? bolt from the wheel arch liner - it has to slide out of the mount and it's quite long.

If you haven't axle stands, it is of course a little difficult to take a wheel off a car safely. Sure, you can use the jack, but you don't want to rely on that if you're under the car or have your head in the wheel arch.

The wheel arch liners are not difficult to remove. There are plastic fasteners which may have their central slot chewed up. In that case I took a small slot head screwdriver, heated it up and pushed it into the central fastener screw - it reforms a slot, then they're easy to undo (don't make the screwdriver TOO hot else the fastener screw will turn into a useless blob).
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 23-04-2015, 14:38
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If I want to keep this car (and I want), I need ramps.
But then, I need a bigger house for storing something like a garage.

Damn.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 23-04-2015, 14:43
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Axle stands take up less room than ramps. It's harder work to get the car up on them as you need to rely on the jack (I assume you have no trolley jack) , but I manage without ramps. It gets tricky when you want a big space for working under the car as the jack only lifts so high (and you don't want to over-extend it).

You can get around this if you have a breeze block or two lying around - jack up one wheel, put a block under it, let the wheel back down onto the block. Now do the wheel on the opposite side the same way. If that isn't high enough, jack up higher again, but now put a block under the jack to give it a head start. Then put axle stands where you want them. Tedious, but do-able.

Last edited by nocturneblue; 23-04-2015 at 14:53.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 23-04-2015, 15:23 Thread Starter
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4hi,i have ramps and trolley jack and a good set of axle stands so hopefully ill be equiped lol
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 23-04-2015, 17:55
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 24-04-2015, 06:56 Thread Starter
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thanks very much for the link...doesnt get much better than that ...
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 24-04-2015, 07:08
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I did mine on wheel ramps with front bumper removed. Mine also had torx bolts. One of mine sheared. I found that it was just possible to fiddle a nut into place after drilling out the sheared bolt
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