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Front upper ball joint removal

6K views 18 replies 5 participants last post by  DeathFromAbove 
#1 ·
So, my O/S upper ball joint has gone in a hell of squeaking.

I think I could handle the job, but I lack the tools, that I have to buy.
I've found on Amazon a Sealy breaker bar 1/2 750mm for 13£.
It is an absolutely bargain.

Do you think is enough to beat the ball joint?
 
#3 ·
upper ball joint

I changed one on my old TF after about 70k miles, took me and my brother and a long piece of tube (about 5 feet long, like scaffold pipe) to crack the thread. Wheel hub was still on the car at the time. So be prepared for a good wrestle!
Once out the thread inside the hub was fine.

Out of interest I have a wheel bearing worn and as my current TF has done 64K, while changing the bearing I will be doing the upper and lower ball joints.
A new wheel complete with upper ball joint and bearing, both fitted, is £85 of our sponsor and its fresh painted and ready to fit, no fighting with upper ball joints and no need to sneak the wheel into work to use our bearing press.
I have 2 ready to fit as soon as the weather improves.

Sundance
 
#6 ·
So, you are suggesting that change the wheel hub is easier?

It 106£ for MGF, but I could save on tools
I think I pay an extra £35-40 for the wheel hub complete compared to buying quality (not cheapo ebays) parts. For the less hassle I have a new ready to fit part, no rust freshly painted and no messing about trying to get the bearing out or cracking the ball joint. Worth £40 to me, and I can then refurbish the wheel hub in my spare time and save it for next time or sell it on.
I did give the hubs a second coat of paint, and also the new wishbone/lower ball joint had a second coat too.
Its up to you, bearings come out ok with a good press, or if you have some correct diameter sockets to push out in a vice.
When I removed the upper ball joint, I was wrenching on it with a breaker bar and long piece of tube, my brother had a large spanner or something to counteract my force, on the hub.

My car is a TF and not a F, so if you need to pay over 100 it may be more wise to refit a new upper ball joint. Up to you if you change the bearing at the same time, no need if it has been done recently.
Oh, it was the front wheel hub, not the rear, I had to replace a rear hub and that was £100.

Sundance
 
#5 ·
upper ball joint is £7.99 Suspension Arms and Suspension Joints | Euro Car Parts

Socket is £12.50 (Laser 0953) Laser 0953 1 13/16" Air Impact Deep Socket 46mm 1/2"D | eBay

You already mention a breaker bar

As already mentioned, a piece of tube put over the breaker bar will help to give leverage, some heat will also help. Just don't worry when the breaker bar begins to bend, recently did all 4 upper ball joints on my TF, (the socket I've identified will fit the rear upper ball joints of the TF) was a scary time with a 5 foot length on scaffolding pole over the breaker bar, but they all undid fine :)
 
#8 ·
I see both points are valid.

The only thing I fear, is that it could end up in a bloodbath.... I'll get a quote from a local garage, just in case.
Its a pretty simple job, just need the right tools and may help to have a second person to assist. if you are competent enough with a spanner it beats garage prices, and if you are going to get a garage to do it, just buy a new hub complete instead and fit yourself, the money you will save will pay for the hub.

Sundance
 
#12 ·
Hub change

Most definate I would replace the two bolts for the brake caliper, If the caliper has not off for a year or two, chances are they may get chewed a bit while undoing them. For certain the abs sensor bolt (if fitted) will be solid, I would replace with either stainless or brass, as it takes no load. Careful not to break the plastic location tab on the sensor bracket while taking it off, although I have broken a couple before and just used the bolt to clamp back on again, it didnt move after! Also make sure if you buy a new hub complete with upper ball joint, make sure you get the nut for the ubj.
Lower joint nut and bolt would also be advisable. Might be worth replaceing the track rod ends too while you are splitting them, for what they cost, it means they are done and will not need attention for a few years.
Perfect time to fit new brake discs too, but only if you need them, make sure the hub and rear of disc are perfectly clean before fitting and use copperslip grease. Think that covers it.

Oh and dont forget a wheel alignment after you have done.
Looking to fit my two new ones as soon as I get a couple of rain and cold free days.

HAPPY SPANNERING,

Sundance
 
#14 ·
Wow!

That's a very details lists of things to do! >:)

I've 4 new MTEC discs fitted, and 1 new caliper (I know... money shortage at the time...).

I'll try to collect all the listed material for doing quite a clean job!
Just got meself 4 MTEC vented and grooved discs along with pads, they did'nt supply the pad guides though, which I thought they would, how do they perform? Hopefully will fit the rear ones this weekend along with my refurbished brake calipers and new braided hoses.

Sundance
 
#15 ·
I got myself grooved and dimpled, black edition.
I didn't notice any kind of difference with the nearly 15 years old ones.

I have to be honest: of all the mods up to know, only 3 I've noticed any difference:
* 52mm TB
* Servo bracket
* Throttle cable tightening

Anything else, seems to be placebo effect.
Front ARB polybush and SS hiqh quality droplinks... not a clue they are now in place when I drive.
Front GAZ... not different.
SS brake hose... the same crappy pedal feel (improved with the braket).
And so on.
 
#16 ·
Seems like an awful lot of trouble and expense to go to for one squeeking ball joint...

If it aint broke dont fix it.
 
#18 ·
I got my first TF from new back in 2004 and ran it for 11 years, putting 85k on the clock, I started having major wear to the running gear at about 70 000 miles, where all bearings bushes and joints had to be replaced between 70 and 80k miles. My current car has 64K on the clock and I have my first wheel bearing change, but experience says while changing the bearing, change all the associated joints and bushes while the hub is off....that way the job is done once and for all and I don't have to get the wheel off again in another 12 months to do the upper ball joint, or have to get it tracked up every time I change something on the steering.
So I am changing all the front steering and wheel components and then I can sit back and relax and enjoy my car during knowing that its all as good as new. Just makes sense to me.


Sundance
 
#19 ·
I bought my car with 49k, now is 62k and 15 years old.
No bush changes, nor bearings, nor joints.

Also, it seems to me that everytime I bring the car to the garage the works aren't done properly and I end up wasting lots of money on what I feel are half-baked solutions.

Add to this that I'm getting more satisfaction from doing bigger and bigger job, due also, to my tool collection growing
 
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