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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-03-2013, 08:29 Thread Starter
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Heated Seats How To Guide - Picture Heavy

Heated Seats How To Guide

You may be wondering why I have bothered to go to so much effort to do a how to on heated seats as there are at least two guides I know of which are good (links below) but for me when weighing up there seemed to be bits of conflicting information about where to put the pads and not many photos of the kit before installation and of course the biggest fear that I am going to destroy the seats. This guide has over 60 pictures which will hopefully help you make an informed choice about taking it on yourself.

First of all the other two guides I read before deciding to take the plunge and order the kit

http://www.the-t-bar.com/en/forum/21-david-aiketgate-s-guides/16625-heated-seats-how-to-fit-heat-pads

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=179172

Ok let’s start with the kit; I went for the Waeco MSH60 / MSH601 range. MSH60 is a two seat kit and MSH601 is a one seat kit. I bought of eBay and asked for a two seat kit and they sent me two single seat kits, bonus I now have an extra relay and cable spare, will just have to tweak the wiring loom.

Technical specification of kit

Seat Pad (squab) 400 X 280 mm (L X W)
Back Pad (back) 300 X 280 mm (L X W)



Power :-
  • Level 1 22W – 1.8A
  • Level 2 45W – 3.4A





























Step 1

Check the kit works. I decided to check that the pads all worked before installation as it would be very frustrating to fit them to find out there were any faults. I didn’t take any pictures of this. Basically the kit is push and go and I connect to power supply and they got nice and warm.


Step 2

Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, before this if working in restricted workspace it may be a good idea to wind the windows down first as this will aid getting the seats out if the doors are closed. This is always good practice when working on auto electrics so you don’t damage any electrical items on your car. But its essential in this instance as you will have to disconnect the SRS seat belt assembly connection as you don’t want them blowing up in your hands / face. You should leave this 15 minuets before disconnecting SRS.


Step 3

Remove the seats, not going to go into much depth on this as self explanatory. However there are how to guides on this. I put the roof down to give me more room. There are 5 X torx 50 bolts on each seat 4 holding the seat to the car and one holding the seat belt to the seat. Remove and then they simply lift out after disconnecting the SRS loom. I started unbolting mine when I was waiting for the 15 minuets to run out from step one.











Step 4

Select suitable working environment for installation. I choose the warmth of my home and go to work on the lounge carpet. Nice and soft and means I didn’t end up damaging the fabrication of the seat.









Step 5



Remove seat ancillaries :-
  • Belt holder – 1 X 50 torx bolt.
  • Back adjuster and plate. Using screw driver ease centre of adjuster then it pulls off. Then pull of plate and push clips through ready for reinstallation.












Step 6

Separate squab from back. 4 X 50 torx, 2 on each side, the seat then simply separates.









Step 7

Remove the squab seat cover.
  • Release the back of the cover by removing black clip along back edge of the seat. I used 2 screwdrivers to leaver this off. I my opinion this is the most difficult part of the whole process. If you look carefully at the pictures you can see the metal has grippers in it holding the plastic in place.
  • Release the sides of the cover by removing black clip.
  • Remove 9 X hog ring, it was easier to cut them off with snips as I had no intention of reusing them, cable ties all the way for me!









































Step 8



Check the squab heating pad fits in desired location.
  • Over up to seat as you can see from the pictures I had to trim some of mine to get it to fit.
  • The cable should be coming out on the tunnel side of the squab – the side the belt holder is attached to.
  • I read the instructions carefully and you are suppose to stick the pads to the foam, this means the passenger side seat had the adhesive on the correct side of the pads but not on the drivers side, I had to use to extra sticky pads included in the kit. Just thought it was worth mentioning.
  • Another thing to mention as it was not clear on other guides is the location of the squab heater pad. I carefully checked the instructions and mine is the correct way round in the proper location (see attached instruction manual picture fig 16) as the heating area only needs to be 30 to 35 mm approximately as this is the main contact area for your bottom.



















Step 9



Prepare the squab to ft the heating pad.
  • Where the 9X hog rings were removed put in place 9 cable ties.
  • Cut hole in foam for heated pad wiring loom.








Step 10

Install squab heating pad and recover the foam.
  • Install pad, starting at the front of the squab. Remove backing of sticky pad and stick to foam. Make 3 holes in pad ensuring not to damage the element where the horizontal hog rings were and push cable ties through tie, cut and push out of way.
  • Working a ring at a time on each side tie the vertical hog rings in place cut and push out of way. Only do the first 4.
  • Remove backing of sticky pad and stick to foam feeding wiring loom through hole in the foam.
  • Tie the remaining 2 hog rings.
  • Turn the squab over and re-clip black plastic onto metal of the squab.
If you have got this far that is the most difficult part of the job and it’s probably time for a nice strong brew and bacon butty!















Step 11



Seat back open and heating pad installation
  • Using a screwdriver on the bottom of the back separate the two plastic clips it’s a bit like trunking lid once started will pull apart easily.
  • Check you are happy that you can get the heating pad in.
  • Ensure you have the pad the correct way around - The cable should be coming out on the tunnel side of the squab – the side the belt holder is attached to.
  • Install pad and secure to foam using sticky pads and ensure nice and flat.
  • Reseal the black plastic.













Step 12



Put seat back together, this is basically the opposite of taking it apart.
  • Attach Squab to back using 4 X 50 torx.
  • Put seat ancillaries back on
  • Tidy and cable tie wiring loom so comes out in same location as SRS loom
  • Grease the seat sliders when you have easy accesses to them.





Step 13

Test the seats before reinstallation into car. This is optional but I wanted to ensure I had got them in correctly and working. I connected them to my power supply and they got nice and warm. Much easer than fitting them into the car to find them you have done something wrong.


Step 14

Choose location for switches.


  • Decide on location for switches. I choose my location so they would be easy to use when driving the car. Others have but them next to the puddle lights and some even used MG heated seat switches (like rocking horse pooh to source my I add).
  • Mark the switch centres ensuring there is enough dept for switch in chosen location. I put some parcel tape and used a marker to get my centres.
  • Pilot drill the holes first before using a 2omm hole saw to finish. My left one was easy but the right hand one more difficult as the metal underneath was patterned. Even with pilot hole the drill was trying to jump.



Step 15

Install wiring loom.


  • Each seat has a 3 core cable going back to the switch. Route cable as necessary under carpet ensuring not trapped and in my car that the gear stick was no obstructed.
  • I choose to cable tie my loom to the SRS loom so neat and that also ties in with the seats part of the loom.
  • I choose to put the relay under the heater matrix as the loom needed extending and I required a negative ground earth.
  • The seats require permanent live (pin 5) ignition live (pin 3) negative ground earth it took from radio (large black wire, soldered on not scotch connector).
  • Wire up switches. They come pre wired so as long as you make a note before pulling wires of you will be fine. Centre pin of switch is live the outer pins are switched live.
  • Will attach wiring diagram. As some of my loom was to short I extended but not necessarily with the correct colour so please don’t copy blindly.
























Step 16

Reinstall the seats.


  • Put the seats back into the car (don’t bolt in yet).
  • Attach the SRS Loom & the heated seat loom.
  • Reconnect the battery.
  • Turn on engine.
  • Turn seats on to check that they work.
  • Once happy seats are functional disconnect the battery again and wait 15 minuets this is in case you knock the SRS loom when bolting the seats back in.
  • Lift seat up so you can reattach the belt to the seat.
  • Bolt in seats.






Step 17

Final Steps.
  • Reinstall any trim you have had off during the installation process.
  • Hoover car.
  • Reconnect battery.
  • Re check seats work.
  • Ensure that the SRS light is not illuminated as this would suggest fault on system. To fix this disconnect battery again. Wait 15 minuets and check SRS loom is securely connected the system should auto reset.








While I have made every effort to ensure this is complete and accurate I cannot take any responsibly for you using the guide and damaging your car. The wiring connections I gave reverence to were for and 03 plate TF. Please check you loom carefully before making any connections and if necessary use a multi meter.

I hope that this guide proofs useful to anyone considering this project. It took me around a day to do but not in one sitting. Also taking photos extra time.



Last edited by bradtek; 18-03-2013 at 20:08.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-03-2013, 12:08
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Once the SRS cables have been disconnected is it safe to reconnect the battery? Does it just leaves the light on the dash.
Paul
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-03-2013, 14:35 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul 160 View Post
Once the SRS cables have been disconnected is it safe to reconnect the battery? Does it just leaves the light on the dash.
Paul
Iím not sure. But thinking about it that would stand to reason because if the system thinks there is a fault it will disable itself. Maybe some one will be a long shortly to advise.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-03-2013, 16:47
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Nice write up matey, great choice on the the kit, they are pretty well made.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-03-2013, 16:52
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BradTek.

Thank you very much for creating such a detailed post. This is on my to do list and using your post is going to make it so much easier to perform.

Thanks you
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-03-2013, 17:20
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It's a good kit. I fitted mine a few months ago. I fitted my switches in the side of the centre console. They can still be asily accessed from the drivers seat, and it's slightly less work to install there.

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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-03-2013, 21:51
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Great How to and great pics. One thing to add is that, if your car is a few years old and the drivers seat is a bit tired now would be a good time to swap the seat base with the passenger seat. I did that with new seats I bought and the drivers seat base is now like new. You can't just swap the whole base though as the mountings are different so I took the cushions off and swapped them.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-03-2013, 10:54 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the feed back guys.

I thought it was about time I gave something back to the community here. I have saved a small fortune with the help of Cliveís great how to guides and it encouraged me to write one myself!


Quote:
Originally Posted by stereophoney View Post
It's a good kit. I fitted mine a few months ago. I fitted my switches in the side of the centre console. They can still be asily accessed from the drivers seat, and it's slightly less work to install there.


I thought about putting the switches there myself but thought they may get knocked with legs, but at least they are esaeir to get to than in the puddle lights.

Cheers

Colin
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-03-2013, 19:23
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Thanks Colin for the advice yesterday,had a day off work today so decided to have a go with the seats. Result i now have nice heated seats just been for a run around and working great.
thanks Paul
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-03-2013, 20:31 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul 160 View Post
Thanks Colin for the advice yesterday,had a day off work today so decided to have a go with the seats. Result i now have nice heated seats just been for a run around and working great.
thanks Paul
Thatís great news!

How long did the install take and where did you choose to mount the switches?

Was it straight forward? Is there anything I missed on my how to?

Cheers

Colin
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-03-2013, 20:54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradtek View Post
Thatís great news!

How long did the install take and where did you choose to mount the switches?

Was it straight forward? Is there anything I missed on my how to?

Cheers

Colin
I started about 1.00 and finished around 6.00 but that includes coffee and dinner
I mounted the switches on the side only because i have metal effect on the centre consol and didnt want to drill it,
The only extra bits i would add is if you do the work in the garage make sure the windows are down its easier to lift the seats out then.I had to re connect the battery and open them and then wait 15min again.
Also connect the seat belt bolts before you put the seat bolts in.
Make sure there are no bolts or screws left on the floor of the car because when you kneel on them its not funny.
Paul
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 13-03-2013, 12:58
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Great write up, first class work, I am sure it will help a lot of MG owners out in the future.

I have been considering purchasing and installing this kit, how warm do they heat up?

Thanks

Vamoursly
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 13-03-2013, 15:39
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Great install,

Not to jump on your glory but you may want to re-think the plastic zip-ties.

I only say from experience, they will brake and the seat covers with go slack.

Just a heads up really.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 18-03-2013, 19:48 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oommbahh View Post
Great install,

Not to jump on your glory but you may want to re-think the plastic zip-ties.

I only say from experience, they will brake and the seat covers with go slack.

Just a heads up really.

I did use quality ties, not cheap ones so hopefully that will help. I found that the only way to get the hog rings out was to cut them with snips as breaking them open with pliers was putting to much strain on the seat covers in my opinion. Also I think it would have been hard work getting the rings back in. Anyway time will tell.
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 18-03-2013, 19:57 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vamoursly View Post
Great write up, first class work, I am sure it will help a lot of MG owners out in the future.

I have been considering purchasing and installing this kit, how warm do they heat up?

Thanks

Vamoursly

Finally got round to testing the seats out properly today, well the drivers one anyway. They get nice and warm on setting 2. The thermostat kicks in every now and then so they cool down for a bit. It has been a cold sunny / cloudy day here in south Manchester. I was able to drive with the roof down, with the seats and heat on max I did not even require a hat. I have to say itís the best £60 I have spent in a long timeÖ wish I did this mod 12 months ago especially as Iím considering selling the car towards the end of the summer. In a nutshell they get toasty warm and at times today I turned them down to setting 1.
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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 18-03-2013, 20:09 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul 160 View Post
I started about 1.00 and finished around 6.00 but that includes coffee and dinner
I mounted the switches on the side only because i have metal effect on the centre consol and didnt want to drill it,
The only extra bits i would add is if you do the work in the garage make sure the windows are down its easier to lift the seats out then.I had to re connect the battery and open them and then wait 15min again.
Also connect the seat belt bolts before you put the seat bolts in.
Make sure there are no bolts or screws left on the floor of the car because when you kneel on them its not funny.
Paul

Suggestions added to how to guide!
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 31-10-2016, 18:33
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I am considering buying these I have had them in my Triumph TR6 four over 5 years no issues invaluable addition if you want to use your car all year round great control with five heat settings.

Heated Seat Retrofit Kit 5 steps switch for 2 Seats ? Garage Consumables LTD

Cheers

Mike.
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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 31-10-2016, 20:29
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I have the same in my F but with the 3 way switches, they work very well but I'm sure they were much cheaper through eBay.
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-11-2016, 10:59
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Did mine a couple of years ago using the Waeco kit, it's not a difficult mod ( aircon was much harder ) but well worthwhile, even my better half is willing to ride around in the winter with the top off now !
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