help with wishbone / front lower arm / subframe? - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 24-01-2017, 17:41 Thread Starter
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Question help with wishbone / front lower arm / subframe?

why did i start this?

anyone know what these are for?
cant get it to fit back between the wishbone and sub frame
L shaped bracket





here it is on a tf too above the anti roll bar bush:


mine with out:


also will it be ok to drill an extra hole in the sub frame mount, as its only using 3 bolts.
some have snaped and will be easier to use the existing one, thats normaly covered up

4th hole where red * is on photo:



bottom of car snaped bolts
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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 24-01-2017, 20:08
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They be shims to keep the bushes nice and tight and to remove any slop. Should go back in with a good clean up and if the bushes are fitted correctly into the wishbone.
Managed to slip mine back in ok when I did mine last year.


Sundance
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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 24-01-2017, 21:48
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I'd bite the bullet and drill them out. Not a nice job but...

You'd need a set of cobalt (HSS-G) drills, a centre-punch, a hammer, a bit of lubricating oil for the drills and a suitable power drill. Get the remains of the bolts centre-punched dead in the middle or else that'll lead to problems. Keep the drill square on to the axis of the bolt as you go in. Use a small drill to drill a pilot hole first, maybe 2.5mm?

Pick the final drill diameter right (consult a drilling and tapping webpage so you don't drill out the threads in the hole) and you may not even need to do anything more than run a tap through the hole to clean up the threads.

Just my two pen'orth, I'm a bit OCD about leaving snapped bolts in situ ;0)
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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 24-01-2017, 22:28 Thread Starter
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threads have all ready been drilled in the inner hole, why im thinking of adding an extra hole in the mount, and using the rear inner thread that's normally just covered up
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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 24-01-2017, 22:57
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Well I don't see why it wouldn't work - although you would have less distance between the front and back holes to resist any 'levering' of the subframe mount due to loads from the subframe - as obviously any new hole you drill can't be as far forward as the two bolts holes that are blocked. I don't think the hole pattern is critical though.

I would check that those threads don't have a captive nut welded on the back of the mounting holes in the body though - as obviously that wouldn't give you as many threads to grip in your new hole. Looking at your photos, I think there may not be a captive (welded) nut behind those holes though - as they wouldn't bother tapping the thread into the hole right from the start if that were the case.
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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 25-01-2017, 17:04
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Don't have anything to contribute to the OP post, however; a quick tip for anyone looking to change their lower arms and are removing the rear subframe mounts....get an hammer and hit the bolt heads few times before trying to undo, the hitting can "shock" the bolts helping to break the corrosion between the bolt thread and subframe thread.

Forgot to do this last year on my TF, first bolt sheared before I remembered to hit them, all others came out ok after a good clout with an hammer first
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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 25-01-2017, 17:18 Thread Starter
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blow torch is the way to go lol

the 1st one came out fine, on the pas side then i manged to snap 2

heated the 3 on otherside drivers seemed a lot easier maybe they pick up less crap, as being futher away from the gutter
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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 25-01-2017, 17:46
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Its the method being used thats snapped them bolts,just too heavy handed.Bolts that size dont just shear off without warning.They need working if they dont feel right not just ploughing in watching them go.Jolting them would have got them,but heavy constant pressure until they failed was a sure way to make alot of work.

A good tight fitting ring spanner and a hammer..........Or better a windy gun which does the same job.
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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 25-01-2017, 18:09 Thread Starter
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was this what snaped them
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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 25-01-2017, 18:51
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Best thing in the tool box is an Oxy Plant closly followed by an an impact gun.
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post #11 of 34 (permalink) Old 25-01-2017, 19:10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by super_cds View Post
was this what snaped them
It must be some tool,ive never seen a windy gun snap a bolt that big in such good condition,them bolts were easily got out with a bit of care.I certainly wouldn't watch it snap 2.It either needs the torque turning down or another method finding.Its certainly made a mess thats going to take some cleaning up to make the situation safe.
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post #12 of 34 (permalink) Old 25-01-2017, 20:46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JT Dent View Post
It's the method being used that's snapped those bolts, just too heavy handed. Bolts that size don't just shear off without warning. They need working if they don't feel right, not just ploughing in watching them go. Jolting them would have got them, but heavy constant pressure until they failed was a sure way to make a lot of work.

A good tight fitting ring spanner and a hammer..........Or better, a windy gun which does the same job.
And there speaks the voice of experience.

These bolts DO snap, sometimes even with plenty of pre-treatment of plusgas (other brands are available), and heat, and shocking, and an impact wrench.
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post #13 of 34 (permalink) Old 25-01-2017, 22:37 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JT Dent View Post
It must be some tool,ive never seen a windy gun snap a bolt that big in such good condition,them bolts were easily got out with a bit of care.I certainly wouldn't watch it snap 2.It either needs the torque turning down or another method finding.Its certainly made a mess thats going to take some cleaning up to make the situation safe.
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post #14 of 34 (permalink) Old 25-01-2017, 23:03
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Oooh don't, you're making me drool. Where were you in the run up to christmas! I've got a CP7748 but my compressor is lacking.
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post #15 of 34 (permalink) Old 26-01-2017, 00:19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JT Dent View Post
Available tools needed will be an airline with at least 100psi,and oxy aceteline with a welding end on.ill provide the rest.
I thought you said you only needed a hammer and a good fitting ring spanner?

Is the compressed air to inflate your ego while you hit the bolts with the gas torch ?

Peter
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post #16 of 34 (permalink) Old 26-01-2017, 11:35
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Regarding the bolts....disregarding the *****ing....I would replace them with new everytime, they are submitted to sheer stress, sometimes severe thanks to our pothole ridden roads, and if heat is used to remove them, they will soften due to normalizing if the steel.
Well its what I did and it seemed the correct thing to do at the time. Now when I am planning any work on the suspension or steering or brakes, I will check and stock up with new fasteners for the job, especially if they are subject to stresses etc.
Oh and correctly torque them up too!


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post #17 of 34 (permalink) Old 26-01-2017, 12:39 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by sundanceuk View Post
Regarding the bolts....disregarding the *****ing....I would replace them with new everytime, they are submitted to sheer stress, sometimes severe thanks to our pothole ridden roads, and if heat is used to remove them, they will soften due to normalizing if the steel.
Well its what I did and it seemed the correct thing to do at the time. Now when I am planning any work on the suspension or steering or brakes, I will check and stock up with new fasteners for the job, especially if they are subject to stresses etc.
Oh and correctly torque them up too!


Sundance
i have the new bolts for the whole front sub frame
10 in total
did order 4 new bolts too for the arms but they only sent 2, bl%%dy rimmer bros

also have 2 new front rear mounts to go on + long bolts with new nuts

cant use bolts once the head has snaped lol

think every thing else will be fine to use the existing bolts
think its just the shock absorber bolt with spacer?

top ball joint is being done along with track end + drop links
all come with new nuts

parts are easy to get luckily so many online shops + ebay too
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post #18 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 16:58 Thread Starter
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got a mobile mechanic coming monday, hopfully get it sorted

if not plan B will have to come in to action and i will be drilling the extra hole in the bracket and reattaching with just 2 bolts and driving it slowly to some one who can
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post #19 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 20:12
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As a last resort you could always weld the subframe mounts onto the car.....it will pass an MOT, however it would be a pain if you need to remove them again anytime soon
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post #20 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 20:36 Thread Starter
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plan c lol
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