How to: [MGF] Fit rear polybushes - MG-Rover.org Forums
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-06-2010, 19:43 Thread Starter
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How to: [MGF] Fit rear polybushes

Hi all, I dont claim to be an expert so please take the following as guidance only! Just thought that it might be helpful to share my experiences of fitting rear polybushes this morning.

This is the kit I bought from Ebay, full set, front and rear:



I have decided to fit them as my rear tie bar to chassis bushes were knackered (as you will see), you cannot buy these seperately so I thought I may as well get a full set (only cost me 60 inc postage from ebay).

This how to describes how to fit the following:
  • Tie bar to chassis bush (mounted in ie bar)
  • Tie bar to lower arm bush (mounted in lower arm)
  • lower arm to chassis bush (mounted in lower arm)
  • lower arm to hub bush (mounted in lower arm)
  • anti roll bar drop link bush (mdrop link)
1. Loosen rear wheel nuts & chock front wheels

2. Jack up rear of vehicle and support on axle stands

3. Remove rear wheels

4. Undo tie bar to lower arm nut (18mm) and remove outer (thinner) washer.

5. Remove Tie Bar to chassis retaining bolt - this is a 13mm bolt head and is a bit of a git, I used a socket set but it was a 1/4 inch set so didnt stick out too far to be honest. Make sure you use some penetrating fluid!

6. You can now remove the tie bar. Keep hold of the (thicker) washer and remember the orientation of the two thicknesses of washer (thinner nearer nut)

7. Next undo the lower arm to hub bolt (15mm) and the lower arm to chassis bolt (19mm) you will need an extension piece for this one and feed it through the hole in the chassis.

8. You will now have the lower arm off and it should look something like this:



Also shown are the corresponding replacement polybushes.

9. Next you need to get the old bushes out. I did this using a threaded bar and a couple of nuts. I also used the washer from the bottom arm to hub joint as it is pretty thick and strong. The pic below shows me pulling out the bush from the tie bar to chassis joint but the others are just the same:



Basically keep the nut on the left still and tighten the one on the right and out she will pop!! I used the vice to seperate the two and it was wide enough for all of the bushes I had to remove. I tightened the vice until it was nearly clamping the bush and pushing its lips together.

The tie bar to lower arm bushes just popped out so not need for anything special there.

The tie bar to chassis bush is also easy to remove but it leaves a metal liner there that needs to be replaced. The metal liner:



I used a screwdriver and hammer to remove this:



Lots of whacking later:



This is what the old bush looked like and the reason why I have replaced them:



10. You should end up with a bare lower arm.



11. Next thing is to fit the new bushes in, mine were not rewally labelled well but you can tell what goes where once you compare them. Use plenty of copper grease asd this will help you get them in and also prevent squeaking down the line. A rubber malet may help if required. Pop the bushes in frst then pop the metal tube through. The arm should look like this when they are all fitted:



12. Refitting is a fairly simple but needs plenty of grease, start with the tie bar to chassis joint and get the nut done up medium tight before moving on. It took me a little while to get it lined up but when you have the tie bar free of the lower arm you can wiggle it about quite a bit to help.



13. Thread the lower arm on to the tie bar ensuring that the THICKER washer is on the tie bar first and this farthest from the nut.

14. Then force the Lower arm to chassis joint in to the chassis and thread the bolt through, may take some wiggling! Again do this up medium tight.

15. Next do up the lower arm to hub bolt, mine was a bit twisted due to the new bushes and didnt line up quite right, I jacked up the joint and then did it up and this prevented cross threading. Dont forget to put on the washer on the outside that you might have used in the bush extraction process (I did).

16. Next put the thinner washer on the tie bar to lower arm joint and then try and do up the nut. I couldnt! The new bushes are much thicker and I could not get the nut to catch on the thread. I had to put the washer on the other way round and compress the joint, release and then try again, this time I could get the nut to catch. Again do this up medium tight.

17. Now what you need to do is put strain on the lower arm so that you tighten it up in its operating position. To do this I jacked up the hub until it just lifted the chassis off the axle stand. Then do up all the nuts to the specified torque.

18. As far as the rear lower arm and tie bar go you are done! Should look like this:



19. Next, if you get them in your pack is the anti roll bar drop link bushes.

20. First remove the drop links - Bolt head is 13mm, nut is 15mm.

21. Then remove the old bushes using the method described above:



22. Next pop the new bushes in with plenty of grease and the use of a mallet, then pop the metal tubes in:



23. Refit the drop links as per removal, the new bushes will compress a bit:



Job done!

Whilst I had the drop links off I also painted them and the bits attaching them to the hubs as they were pretty rusty.

The whole job took me about 3 hours, first side took 2, second side took one as I knew what I was doing and what was going to be a *****!!

Hope this helps.

Ben
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-06-2010, 20:42
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Nice how to

I guess you got the tie-bar to subframe bolts out in the end! I see what you mean about the tie bar to lower arm bush - its much thicker than standard, no wonder you had trouble getting the nut on the end.

Have some rep for your efforts
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-06-2010, 20:47
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Well done on the 'how to' nice and clear with good pics.

What company did you get the kit from?
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-06-2010, 21:51 Thread Starter
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Company was called Flo-Flex Polyurethane. I won them in auctin format, they generally sell them for about 120. They seem ok and are a good fit but time will tell!
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-06-2010, 08:41
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job well done there bud....its something im gonna do this autumn i think now that finances are finally looking to pick up

great how to,...have some rep as this will really help me when it comes to doing mine
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-06-2010, 08:57
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Great how to, I've added it to the sticky above.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-02-2011, 17:32
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Did these make much of a difference Ben?
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-02-2011, 18:09 Thread Starter
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To be honest I am not sure as I needed to replace the tie bar bushes anyway. I did not do masses of driving after fitting them ahead of parking the car up for the winter. Going to do the fronts before I put it back on the road so will know more then. I think they will be more noticeable up front.

Sorry I can't be more helpful!
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-05-2011, 12:14
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Great sticky.

I bought a set of these of fleabay last year and am about to start fitting them.

The set I got (for 71 including postage) has these

full rear lower arm set
tie bar to chassis

rear arb mounts
front arb mounts
front wishbones

but I only got 4 drop link bushes


going to have a go at doing the rear first.

There seem to be a bit of conflicting stuff whether to use copper slip grease or just soap and water tho'
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-05-2011, 12:59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaffacakekilla View Post
.....There seem to be a bit of conflicting stuff whether to use copper slip grease or just soap and water tho'
you should have had 'proper' grease with the bushes. I'd use use copper grease in its absence.
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 16:21
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silicone grease is one type recommended for these - word of warning I have heard that polybushes can squeak after a while.....anyone got any feedback on this?
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 18:01
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They are supposed to be no lubricated, or self lubricated as such.

If you fit them with soap and water into place, then lubricate the inner sleeve with silicone grease, that should make it so that the bush does not turn in its seat but the sleeve does.
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