How to adjust door window seals. - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old 22-01-2010, 15:55 Thread Starter
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How to adjust door window seals.

One problem with the F/TF is water ingress around the driver and passenger windows.

Signs of leaks are wet carpet (normally under the carpet), water marks on the door card or speaker grill



Or water pools on the top of the door card.



Getting a perfect seal is something of a black art, or even luck. I spent a whole afternoon just doing the passenger window and I’m not sure whether it was luck or skill, but I have managed to get a pretty good seal now.


There are many adjustments that can affect the seal on your window, and it is a combination of small adjustments and patience that will get you a good seal.

The best way to test your seal is to use a hose. Set it on a rain like spray pattern and try to simulate the rain coming from an angle slightly above and in front of the car. If you set it to too strong a spray and direct it straight at the window it WILL leak, but won’t represent real rain.

The first thing you need to do is remove the door card http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?p=3592497#post3592497

Once the door card is off you need to lower the window so that it is not up against the stop.



Next you need to adjust each of the 2 upper stops to achieve a good seal. Hopefully you will have seen where the leaks are and know whether to raise or lower the stops.



The bolts that secure the upper stops are 10mm bolts.

This shows the front stop, which is recessed through a hole in the door.



Loosen the bolt and slide it up or down to suit. Try small changes first to see if the leaks improve.



Adjusting the front bolt will also affect the alignment of the window at the rear as well. You will need to play around with both stops to get the optimum seal. It really is a case of trial and error.

You might find at this point that the window seems to be OK at the front, but showing gaps at the back, or vice versa. This could mean that the window is not central.

If this is the case then carry out the following:

With the window in the up position, loosen the nuts in the positions shown below.



The 2 circled on the left and centre are 10mm nuts





While the position on the right is part of the window regulator system.

Lower the window about a 1/3rd of the way and you should see a 10mm nut and an 8mm nut. Loosen these and you should now be able to hold the window and slide it forward or backward to centralise it.



The window should now be at the correct height and centralised.

Now you need to move the top of the window in or out to get the right positioning. This may take a bit of trial and error, but the window top should be pushing well into the seal so that it deforms it and hangs over the top of the window.

To change the tilt of the window, you need to adjust the two points shown. You can adjust them independently to get the best result.







They are locked in place by a 13mm locknut, so first unlock (loosen) with a socket or spanner.



The screw in the centre can be screwed out to tilt the top of the window towards the car, or screwed in to move the top of the window away from the car.

The wind cheater (or where the mirror attaches to) is also adjustable.

If you loosen the 2 bolts at the base of the cheater it will slide backwards and forwards with a little persuasion.



Slide the cheater towards the window with it in its fully up position so you get a snug fit.

Also the seal around the cheater can deform over time. If you need to you can buy some silicone tubing and feed it into the recess to push out the seal a bit.







Another thing to remember is the door striker plate. This is adjustable and can cause the door to close more and hold a better seal. Loosen the 2 torx bolts (T40) and slide the plate in to tighten or out to loosen the door closure.



Now set up your hose so that it is giving a good cover of rain coming down onto the roof and over the window you are testing.

Let this “rain” fall on the car for a good 10 minutes and go back to the car and check for leaks. Readjust if necessary.

To check for leaks open the opposite door and check (after switching the hose of). If you open the door you are testing, the water will fall off the roof onto the seats etc and you won’t know if the water has leaked in through the seals or when you opened the door.

You may also find that the cantrail seals that the windows seal against are badly spaced leaving gaps between them. These can be moved to get a better seal.

Last edited by CJJ; 09-10-2010 at 20:04. Reason: Update
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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old 22-01-2010, 16:01
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nice work as usual Clive
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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old 22-01-2010, 16:19
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top banana clive.....this is something i need to get sorted on mine...only thing im not happy with at the mo
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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old 22-01-2010, 17:32
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Excellent Clive. One of Misty's windows is slightly out of alignment and I've never gotten round to sorting it. This 'how to' will be very helpful
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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old 22-01-2010, 17:39
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Fantastic thread Clive. Your contributions to this forum are priceless, well done!
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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old 22-01-2010, 17:43
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Nice guide!

Hopefully, i'll never need it, the windows seem to be the only thing that never goes wrong on my F!
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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 17:57
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silicone tubing

great tip with the silicone tubing, what size did you use and where can i buy some?

J
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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 17:59 Thread Starter
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I just searched ebay and bought a selection. I guess the size depends on how much you want to bulk the seal out by.
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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 18:09
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Brilliant as usual, this is something I need to do as well.

I think our windows are rising too much as they are pain to open when the roof is up, especially the drivers door.

Have some rep
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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 18:18
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My passenger window jams against the A-pillar before it gets to the top, I have to push the top of it out! It will probably drop off before I get round to fixing it!
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post #11 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 18:46
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excellent write up :-) Many thanks :-) this will come in very usefull.
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post #12 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 19:59
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As before, Many thanks for detailed instructions.
My passenger door has to be closed in a certain way to avoid gap, and my drivers door sticks on the rubber sill and doesn't want to let me out lol.

Will look into doing this when i have a day off to have a good go at adjustment.

Thanks again - Mikki.
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post #13 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 20:41
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Marvellous job. Forgot all about the door striker being adjustable!! Will have a look at mine this weekend.
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post #14 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 20:49
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Nice Job

I thought with you going to the dark side welding the door shut an super glue the window in place would have been the way to go ....lol
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post #15 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 20:52 Thread Starter
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Did think about it at one point.
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post #16 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-10-2010, 20:06 Thread Starter
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Guys, after discovering the adjustments to the window tilt and fore aft movement I have updated the how to.
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post #17 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-10-2010, 20:31
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Top stuff as usual Clive.

Having done a bit of window adjustment yesterday, I can add a couple of quick tips to this.

First one is that there are also two adjustable rubber stops on the edge of the door which, along with the striker plate, can help to align the door with the body, before you start fiddling with the glass adjustments.

Second one is that when I had everything more or less adjusted following Clive's steps above, I lowered the window slightly, loosened the two height adjustment bolts, closed the door and with the hood in place, raised the window until it stopped snugly into the top seal.

Then re-tighten the two bolts. That way, I got a really good seal.
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post #18 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-10-2010, 20:42 Thread Starter
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Good points mate.

I did forget to mention that you should adjust the height of the window so that it isn't too high. You can tell this when you close the door as it lifts the front corner of the hood slightly away from the windscreen surround. This in itself can cause leaks, so adjust it down slightly until it doesn't lift the hood when you close the door. You can also tighten the roof latches to prevent this too.
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post #19 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-10-2010, 22:36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJJ View Post
You can also tighten the roof latches to prevent this too.

It's what I did a few moments ago. However... I fear I'll have to do some window adjusting too... Still... my major leak was driver's side from the A-pillar where the hood catches... adjusted the screw for a tighter fit and job done!

Before, if you pushed it with your hand there was some play, now there isn't.

The seals around the window are quite alright, but I have another leak just around the door, by the door handle side... there's a little bit where the hood starts where some water can get in.
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post #20 of 37 (permalink) Old 16-10-2010, 07:35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJJ View Post
Lower the window about a 1/3rd of the way and you should see a 10mm nut and an 8mm nut. Loosen these and you should now be able to hold the window and slide it forward or backward to centralise it.


I spent quite a lot of time playing with my door a few weeks back, fixing my door stop issues

Window-Stop override solution, and vary rattly window question

This window stop problem is going to give me a nervous breakdown...!

On the picture above, one of those bolts (I think its the upper one) adjusts the pre-load... the amount window leans in toward the car to form the seal on the rubber. I mention it becuase I think I have put too much pre-load on my glass, and that may be stressing the glass or door too much when I shut the door.

I now have a bad rattle in the door. I can stop the rattle by pulling on the door handle, or pushing on the door card, so I am thinking I have loosened the door somehow, perhaps due to the adjustment above.

I'll be having a play later to try and resolve the problem.

I wonder what other people do with their weekends? Having a TF is like having kids...I have no idea what I did with my free time before I had one.. :-)

cheers all

mikef
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