How to build a Glove Box Sub Box for an F/TF - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #1 of 46 (permalink) Old 02-07-2008, 13:41 Thread Starter
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How to build a Glove Box Sub Box for an F/TF

Glove Box Sub Box
A few months ago I replied to THIS thread regarding the likelihood of installing a subwoofer in the glove box, I have now almost completed the venture and as promised here is a photographic account of the build.
I had to split this thread into two section as only 25 images are allowed in each post.
Part 1
History
As mentioned in the above thread I have tried a sub in various positions and in theory decided that the best place for such a speaker would be in the glove box area as firstly it would barely intrude into the passenger foot well and secondly it would be almost hidden away. That was the easy part, now for some tea and biscuits whilst the decisions were to be made….
Build Plan
I decided that the only way that I could successfully make this box would be from a mixture of both wood and fibreglass as this would give me the flexibility needed to overcome the rather challenging shape that would be needed, this was quite scary as I have NEVER “glassed” anything before, the woodwork side was right up my street.
To secure the glove box sub box I decided that heavy duty metal brackets would be fixed to the body shell/metalwork as I knew that the whole structure was NOT going to be a lightweight and also this would stop the speaker integrating with the dash and making one big loud buzzzzz.
I noticed that there is already a great mounting point behind the passenger airbag cover that holds up the EPAS box, this would be the main fixing point, the other two points would need to be located and fabricated.
The speaker
I was actually quite surprised at how limited my options would be. I figured out that an 8” sub would be the only way to go due to space constraints and that I would need something that worked in the smallest internal volume available, I also fancied something that was well built & came with a well tested fan base.
I came up with a speaker made by an American Company - CDT although there are others made by JL Audio, Crystal, Pioneer, Alpine to name a few.
The key point is to get a speaker that will work in as small an enclosure as possible, I ended up with an internal volume of about 13 litres in my box, but remember the displacement (size of the speaker going inside the box, usually on the spec sheet) needs to be taken off this!
The Build
I started the build by removing the original glove box (undo the four screws and pull off the electrical connectors) to have a look-see as to what space was available. I was pleasantly surprised by the cavernous (well by TF standards at least!) space. I could see at this point there was a great chance of success.
What there is to play with:-

Here is the fixing point behind the passenger airbag:-


Once the glove box was removed:-

I set about remodelling it with cardboard to gain the biggest box that I could whilst avoiding the heater pipe and bulkhead behind, this was PITA#1..

I eventually ended up with this shape:-

I then took measurements of the morphed glove box and transferred them to pieces of cardboard to assist me with my cut list for the wood (PITA#2). When cut and assembled for the first time the glove box looked like this:-




A completed pic of the box complete with a speaker surround ring to enable a neat install:-


Note the finish inside the box, its fibreglass resin to seal the wood (MDF is porous):-

Also note the rebate around the edge of the box to help with the securing of the material that will be stretched across the back of the box:-

Next up was to start the fibre glassing, after lots of weeks dithering I eventually plucked up the courage and got stuck in to find………That its REALLY easy!
I started by stretching an old t shirt across the back of the box and securing it with staples, it looked like this:-


To gain extra internal volume I secured a couple of sections of garden cane with hot glue to the inside:-


This is what it looked like from the outside:-




Now its time to add the resin, I used a paint brush and applied liberally:-

After an hour or so it sets rock solid and now its time to apply the fibreglass mat & resin over the top of this to complete the rear of the box:-


I ended up with 10 layers of FG mat and to be honest it’s a bit of overkill, but at least its VERY solid.
I applied each layer in one piece cutting to shape before applying the resin. I also gave the edges around the rebate an extra strip of mat to increase strength in this area. Finally I gave the whole glassed area a quick coat of just resin and it finished it off nicely.
I offered the box up to the aperture in the car just to make sure all was good, I was starting to gain some encouragement, it fitted in well.

Last edited by happychappy#1; 02-07-2008 at 15:32.
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post #2 of 46 (permalink) Old 02-07-2008, 13:42 Thread Starter
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Part 2

Part 2
Next up PITA#3, the brackets!
This is what took me absolute ages, I used 3mm metal for the cage that fitted between the roll bar (behind the air bag aperture) and the top of the box. This is a VERY important bracket to get right as it determines the angle at which the box will be fixed at, obviously I wanted to follow the contours of the dashboard.
I went back to my cardboard basics for this and constructed at least 5 of them before I got it right, it was a REAL pain holding the box whilst trying to get the measurements correct! Eventually I did and then made a wooden version before finally moving onto the metal one.:-
(this pic shows it painted and drilled, more of this next)

Next up I bolted the securing cage (above) to the box and then drilled the two holes on top of the cage to fix this in turn to the roll cage, when this was done I used mole grips to temporarily fix the box to the car so as to get some idea of where to fix the other hardware:-


Next up I used some 1.5mm metal strip to work out the shape of the other two brackets, this was PITA#4! It took ages but after a lot of perseverance I got there. I eventually made them from 4mmx25mm metal strip and to say its well secured is probably the understatement of the year!
This is the bracket that I made to secure the left hand side of the box:-

This bolts onto the side of the box like this:-

And in turn to the bodywork on the nearside via a rivnut:-

The right hand side bracket looks like this:-

And bolts to the side of the box like this:-

And secures to the body shell on the centre console via a rivnut like this:-

This is a picture of the finished glove box sub box complete with speaker in place after having a layer of carpet applied to the front:-
Note the bracket on the right in this pic

From the drivers seat

I still have the speaker grille to make and will add pics of this once its finished.
The summary
All in all I am very pleased with the finished article as it achieves all of what I set out to do I.e. a neat install of a high end sub without losing foot space.
If asked would I make another for a third party the answer would be a resounding no, mainly due to the amount of time that it took to make. Although I have kept doubles of the woodwork and have templates for the bracketry so another should be quicker to make.
Was it hard to do? I believe not, but be aware that its very time consuming and perhaps only suitable for the real audio enthusiasts out there as it can work out rather expensive, especially if you opt for one of the higher end speakers.
Regarding the sound the speaker is actually dropping lower than a foot well fibreglass build that I was using (with the same speaker) but to be honest that could be down to a couple of things as I have changed my amp and gone active recently.
I do hope that this “how to” has helped make the decision on whether this is for you or not.
Any problems please PM me and I will do my best to help
Points to note
1:-
I used 4mm nut insert:-

Purchased from here:-
http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/threaded_inserts.htm
[FONT=Verdana]To secure the speaker to the box as opposed to just screws which could thread/work loose.
2:-
I used 6mm rivnut‘s:-

To secure the two side brackets to the bodywork with 6mm bolts
3:-
The nuts & Bolts on the “cage” bracket are 8mm




Thanks for taking the time to look.

Last edited by happychappy#1; 02-07-2008 at 15:36. Reason: Spellin'
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post #3 of 46 (permalink) Old 02-07-2008, 14:00
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total total overkill mate but excellent writeup and looks superb, very professional!

how does it sound??
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post #4 of 46 (permalink) Old 02-07-2008, 14:13
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Awesome job Been thinking about moving my sub from behind the passenger seat but not too sure if I could quite manage something like that
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post #5 of 46 (permalink) Old 02-07-2008, 14:25 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyRomeo View Post
how does it sound??
Pretty good, there are NO rattles or buzzing from the dash which was my main concern. It will sound better once I have set it all up correctly (active system woes!)

Quote:
Originally Posted by gotenks1321 View Post
Been thinking about moving my sub from behind the passenger seat but not too sure if I could quite manage something like that
Its actually not as hard as it may look, just very time consuming.

Thanks for the pos comments Guys.
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post #6 of 46 (permalink) Old 02-07-2008, 14:31
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Very professional looking and I imagine a much better sound than my SWD sub, well done

Seeing as you made it look so easy, I'll put my order in now - can I have one by the weekend?
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post #7 of 46 (permalink) Old 02-07-2008, 14:44 Thread Starter
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I'll put my order in now - can I have one by the weekend?
And which year will that be Maaam

Hey Jan you didnt mention the colour of the speaker, it'd look well in your car
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post #8 of 46 (permalink) Old 02-07-2008, 14:46
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Nice job dave, looks superb.

You clearly have to much time on your hands now get back out in your taxi


Stu
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post #9 of 46 (permalink) Old 02-07-2008, 14:53 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TF 52 ALY View Post
You clearly have to much time on your hands now get back out in your taxi


Stu
Hi Stu

You sound just like Michelle when you say that, its a conspiracy I tell's ya!
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post #10 of 46 (permalink) Old 02-07-2008, 15:08
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Hi Stu

You sound just like Michelle when you say that, its a conspiracy I tell's ya!
How is Michelle? all go ok?

Anyway someone needs to nag you

Stu
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post #11 of 46 (permalink) Old 02-07-2008, 15:21
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Make several more and see them sell like hot cakes.....!

I know you've said that you arent thinking of making anymore but have the templates, im sure that if you could sell the the design of it, measurements etc...

Absolutly brilliant!
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post #12 of 46 (permalink) Old 02-07-2008, 15:28 Thread Starter
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How is Michelle? all go ok?

Anyway someone needs to nag you

Stu
Thanks for asking She's fine now, I know that because she's up to full nagging speed!

BTW the statement you made earlier about getting out to work She FULLY agrees with.....
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post #13 of 46 (permalink) Old 02-07-2008, 15:37
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Very impressive "How To". Ever thought of selling them in a basic kit form?
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post #14 of 46 (permalink) Old 02-07-2008, 15:57 Thread Starter
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Very impressive "How To". Ever thought of selling them in a basic kit form?
I have no intentions of getting involved in a commercial capacity as its not time/money viable for me, although I am more than happy to help .org members as much as I can regarding sizes shapes and how does this/what does that... etc.

David
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post #15 of 46 (permalink) Old 02-07-2008, 16:47
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Thats great stuff i need a sub in mine but looks like the only place i have for it without going through lots of hastle is the boot
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post #16 of 46 (permalink) Old 02-07-2008, 17:10
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I've been waiting for your guide Happychappy but i couldn't resist my craving for bass any longer so bought a Pioneer TS-WX22A for behind the seat, complements my system quite nicely to be honest. There's no way it will sound anywhere as good as that though! I bet it sounds awesome!!

Great guide!
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post #17 of 46 (permalink) Old 02-07-2008, 17:46 Thread Starter
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Thats great stuff i need a sub in mine but looks like the only place i have for it without going through lots of hastle is the boot
I have tried the boot route and to be honest the results were not good. I found that all that happened was that it made the car buzz and rattle in places that I was unaware that it could buzz and rattle from! A serious amount of sound deadening will be needed to overcome this if its to work properly. The other more important point is that the sound will need to fight its way through a double bulkhead (engine bay). Also the boot is a sealed enclose so getting sound out will be a problem.

If it were me I would opt for a fibreglass passenger footwell build if I was short on time/tools and perhaps cash. something like this:-

(Michelle calls this "The Pigs Ear" can you see why? )



Different angle




The reason for this is that the sub will be in its optimum position between the front speakers and will integrate better with them (even though sub bass is non-directional).
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post #18 of 46 (permalink) Old 02-07-2008, 18:13
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Where you gonna keep your favourite pair of stringback suede driving gloves, now that you don't have a glovebox?
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post #19 of 46 (permalink) Old 02-07-2008, 18:17 Thread Starter
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Where you gonna keep your favourite pair of stringback suede driving gloves, now that you don't have a glovebox?
In the place that some others have installed a powered sub, the armrest compartment.....
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post #20 of 46 (permalink) Old 02-07-2008, 19:07
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Lol that looks very impressive and would look great in my TF. Not sure if i would have the time but maybe give it ago sometime. Again great job
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