How to:Change the Clutch Slave cylinder seal - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 19-06-2009, 13:28 Thread Starter
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How to:Change the Clutch Slave cylinder seal

I had to change my Clutch slave cylinder seal today. It's simple to do but I thought it might be useful for those who haven't done it before.

PLEASE NOTE: Clutch and Brake Fluid WILL strip the paint off your car. DO NOT spill any or rest your hands on the bodywork if you have been handling the Fluid. If you get a spill wash immediately with lots of clean water.


1: Undo rear hood clips and support the hood (I use a bit of velcro to hold up the rear of the hood). Remove the rear carpet, soundproofing and engine cover,

2: Have a look just above the gearbox and nestled partially obscured by the airfilter box (I have a K&N so no box in the way), you will see the Clutch Slave Cylinder.

clutchslave.jpg

3: You now have to undo the arm/pin. This is a tiny 'R' clip that will just pull off. (This little bugger WILL drop into the engine bay at the first opportunity so be careful) Just behind the 'R' clip there should be a washer, remove this and then gently push the clevis pin out.

clutch2.jpg


4: Pull the arm out and put it safe with the rest of the bits.

clutch3.jpg

5: Gently push on the clutch pedal and you will see the piston push to the front of the cylinder (even if it's leaking). Be careful with any leaking fluid and wiggle the piston out of the cylinder, it will pop out with a bit of persuasion. There is a long spring attached. You might be able to see where my rubber seal has split.

piston.jpg

6: With a Clean rag and a bit of brake fluid, wipe around the inside of the cylinder to make sure there is no grit/dirt inside. I then cut off the old seal with a pair of snips and rolled a new one on. These go one way round, the flange facing the spring. I used a blunt screwdriver end to persuade the new rubber over the piston. It's easier to go from the spring end.

clutch4.jpg

7: Next put the new dust cover on the clutch arm. This may not be necessary but it's with the kit anyway so you may as well do it.

clutch5.jpg

8: Clean the piston thoroughly with a bit of brake fluid and 'moisten' the new rubber with fluid. Then re-insert the piston into the cylinder, give it a firm push and it will pop back in.

clutch6.jpg

9: Now push the arm into the cylinder and force the piston back, this can be made a bit easier by slacking off the bleed nipple on top of the cylinder, but be careful of brake fluid squirting everywhere. I found it wasn't needed.

clutch6.jpg

10: Line up the cylinder arm with the clutch arm (fiddly)Re-insert the clevis pin, put the washer back on and re-insert the 'R' clip, then wiggle the new dust cover over the end of the cylinder (fiddly). Your Done!!

clutch7.jpg

Now for the Bleeding: I used a Gunsons Pressure Bleed Kit. These are about 15.00 and an absolutely brilliant piece of kit. It uses the pressure from your tyres to force the fluid through the system and I have never had a poor bleed or air in the system from this kit. Also there is no pumping of the clutch/brake pedals when bleeding. I will have to open a new thread though because of the picture limit.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg clutch1.jpg (43.5 KB, 598 views)
File Type: jpg bleed1.jpg (35.5 KB, 688 views)

Last edited by zipimini; 17-08-2010 at 21:59.
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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 19-06-2009, 13:30
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Well Done!!

I bet you get your own linky now on Sir Pete's site
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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 19-06-2009, 14:44 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michiel.B View Post
Well Done!!

I bet you get your own linky now on Sir Pete's site

Thanks Michiel......I'm amazed at how much longer a job takes when you have to take pictures...lol.....and then I still forgot some!
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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 19-06-2009, 15:03
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Nice job! Bookmarked.
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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 19-06-2009, 15:42
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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 19-06-2009, 16:19
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Good how to! Where did you get the seal kit from and how much was it?
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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 19-06-2009, 16:46 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ourmark View Post
Good how to! Where did you get the seal kit from and how much was it?



Got mine from EMG in Kings Lynn 6.00. Apparently they are only using the old stock up. I'm going to compare it to a Classic MINI kit because I think they are exactly the same.
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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 28-02-2010, 10:16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zipimini View Post
Got mine from EMG in Kings Lynn 6.00. Apparently they are only using the old stock up. I'm going to compare it to a Classic MINI kit because I think they are exactly the same.
Thanks Zipimini for this How to! Its going to save me a lot of cash.
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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 31-07-2010, 15:43
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hi this is sidga can u tell what what happening with your clutch mine went to the floor but when checked fluid was hardly any in checked the seal you were on about covered in what looks like clutch fluid will it be the same as yours thanks sidga
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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 31-07-2010, 19:24
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very good "how to"
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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old 31-07-2010, 19:39
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Well done, how to's are always a good thing, Rep added.
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post #12 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-08-2010, 23:28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidga View Post
hi this is sidga can u tell what what happening with your clutch mine went to the floor but when checked fluid was hardly any in checked the seal you were on about covered in what looks like clutch fluid will it be the same as yours thanks sidga
Hi Sidga, in the end it wasn't the slave cylinder that had gone it was the clutch arm and clutch itself. I replaced the seals but it failed as soon as I pressed the clutch down.

Ended up being quite an expensive repair job at the garage so I hope yours isn't as bad as mine was!
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post #13 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-08-2010, 08:34
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Added tip:

Absolutely correct that this fluid will ruin paintwork. A good idea is to buy a cheap roll of clingfilm and put it over paintwork that *might* get splashed. Then cover anywhere you are leaning over with an old curtain on top of that. That way if an accident happens you have time to remove the spill and the cling fillm with no harm done.

NOTE - I have done this for years but never needed to mop up a spill. I would recommend removing any clingfilm that does get spills on it straight away and putting fresh over the paint as I have no idea if the fluid is corrosive to the stuff.
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post #14 of 29 (permalink) Old 14-10-2010, 20:06
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Thanks zipimini. Got my seal kit today- going to have a go at this saturday! Will let you know how it goes ...
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post #15 of 29 (permalink) Old 14-10-2010, 20:36
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Originally Posted by Vitalaflow View Post
Thanks zipimini. Got my seal kit today- going to have a go at this saturday! Will let you know how it goes ...
Hi mate did ours last week, (both master and slave cylinders). its a doddle, worst bit I found was getting the arm and clevis to line up so I could get the bloody pin back in.
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post #16 of 29 (permalink) Old 17-10-2010, 19:30
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Originally Posted by steve1951 View Post
Hi mate did ours last week, (both master and slave cylinders). its a doddle, worst bit I found was getting the arm and clevis to line up so I could get the bloody pin back in.
Hello mate,
Its not in the easiest place is it! I had a go today. When I first looked at it the actual arm was coming out of the cylinder at about 45 degrees to the left!!! i figured this was my problem and not the seal.

I had a look and the bracket/mount that secures the arm (non cylinder end) has actually split- so the when pumping the clutch trying to build pressure the piston just comes out and stays out about a 1cm out from the cylinder as theres nothing to stop/secure it.

I got the other half to pump the clutch and i manually held the arm into cylinder and lone behold the system built up pressure as when took the piston out a load of fluid came with it.

I am goign to either have to get a new bracket of some sort or try secure it with a this bendy rod i have (similiar to a coat hanger). I hope it should be ok as the sole purpose of the bracket/mount is just to hold the arm in place.

Fingers crossed!
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post #17 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-01-2011, 14:49
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excellent thread did exactly what it should, I've done the job but the immobiliser won't let me start the car.......... I've done the key plip thing, key in lock, press 10 times etc. Could I have knocked a cable off when changing the cylinder kit?
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post #18 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-01-2011, 18:09
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Is the engine turning over fast enough, or is it not turning over at all.

Just trying to think what you could have effected, I assume you were leaning over the passenger wing to reach in, that is where the fuel cut off is, also check for damage at the left hand boot hinge loom, and that you havent loosened any wires at the starter motor.
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post #19 of 29 (permalink) Old 27-01-2011, 11:08
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zipimini View Post
I had to change my Clutch slave cylinder seal today. It's simple to do but I thought it might be useful for those who haven't done it before.

PLEASE NOTE: Clutch and Brake Fluid WILL strip the paint off your car. DO NOT spill any or rest your hands on the bodywork if you have been handling the Fluid. If you get a spill wash immediately with lots of clean water.


1: Undo rear hood clips and support the hood (I use a bit of velcro to hold up the rear of the hood). Remove the rear carpet, soundproofing and engine cover,

2: Have a look just above the gearbox and nestled partially obscured by the airfilter box (I have a K&N so no box in the way), you will see the Clutch Slave Cylinder.

Attachment 43523

3: You now have to undo the arm/pin. This is a tiny 'R' clip that will just pull off. (This little bugger WILL drop into the engine bay at the first opportunity so be careful) Just behind the 'R' clip there should be a washer, remove this and then gently push the clevis pin out.

Attachment 43524


4: Pull the arm out and put it safe with the rest of the bits.

Attachment 43526

5: Gently push on the clutch pedal and you will see the piston push to the front of the cylinder (even if it's leaking). Be careful with any leaking fluid and wiggle the piston out of the cylinder, it will pop out with a bit of persuasion. There is a long spring attached. You might be able to see where my rubber seal has split.

Attachment 43530

6: With a Clean rag and a bit of brake fluid, wipe around the inside of the cylinder to make sure there is no grit/dirt inside. I then cut off the old seal with a pair of snips and rolled a new one on. These go one way round, the flange facing the spring. I used a blunt screwdriver end to persuade the new rubber over the piston. It's easier to go from the spring end.

Attachment 43525

7: Next put the new dust cover on the clutch arm. This may not be necessary but it's with the kit anyway so you may as well do it.

Attachment 43527

8: Clean the piston thoroughly with a bit of brake fluid and 'moisten' the new rubber with fluid. Then re-insert the piston into the cylinder, give it a firm push and it will pop back in.

Attachment 43528

9: Now push the arm into the cylinder and force the piston back, this can be made a bit easier by slacking off the bleed nipple on top of the cylinder, but be careful of brake fluid squirting everywhere. I found it wasn't needed.

Attachment 43528

10: Line up the cylinder arm with the clutch arm (fiddly)Re-insert the clevis pin, put the washer back on and re-insert the 'R' clip, then wiggle the new dust cover over the end of the cylinder (fiddly). Your Done!!

Attachment 43529

Now for the Bleeding: I used a Gunsons Pressure Bleed Kit. These are about 15.00 and an absolutely brilliant piece of kit. It uses the pressure from your tyres to force the fluid through the system and I have never had a poor bleed or air in the system from this kit. Also there is no pumping of the clutch/brake pedals when bleeding. I will have to open a new thread though because of the picture limit.
Hi Thanks for your advice.

Can you explain step by step how to bleeding clutch. I just confused.
Thanks a lot in advance..

Cheers
Bryan
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post #20 of 29 (permalink) Old 14-04-2011, 09:45
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hello there,

thanks for this how to so far.

I would like to know if I need to buy more then just "GRK904039 Clutch Slave Cylinder Repair Kit" and "PC108321A Clevis Pin" because it would be a bit inconvenient to end up missing some single cheap stupid thingy.

btw: the tank for the fluid, does it have to be completly full? mine is about half full but then there are some plastik markings on the inside. what is the total filling capacity? so that I know how much brake fluid to buy

cheers
Basti

Last edited by eject; 14-04-2011 at 13:33. Reason: spelling
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