How to...... Change the front hub - MG-Rover.org Forums
 
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 25-07-2010, 12:21 Thread Starter
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How to...... Change the front hub

First loosen the wheel nuts and jack up the car. Don't forget to use an axle stand or a few bricks or blocks of wood to support the car when you are working on it.

Remove the wheel.

Undo the two 12mm bolts securing the caliper to the carrier and remove the brake pads. Stash these away safely to avoid getting grease or oil on them. Tie up the caliper to prevent damage to the flexi pipe.



Then undo the two 15 mm bolts securing the caliper carrier to the hub.



Then try to undo the two retaining screws holding the disc onto the hub. These seem to be made of chocolate and you will probably end up chewing the head and drilling the countersunk bit out.

Then remove the disc. This might be stiff or stuck by rust to the hub. Try a rubber or copper headed persuader to free this up. As I was replacing the disc at the same time, I didn't have this problem.

Next thing to do is soak the two 17mm bolts on top of the hub attached to track rod end with WD40. Also spray the top nut secured by the tab washer at the upper ball joint and the nut and bolt at the base of the hub at the lower ball joint.
Go and have a cup of tea or something for half an hour or so to let the fluid do its magic.

Undo the top two bolts and tap out the plate securing the track rod to the hub. These are tight as they are threadlocked in. Make sure you reapply threadlock when you put it back together. There are two spacers so make sure you dont lose these. Swing it out of the way and if you have one fitted, undo the 8mm ABS sensor bolt (socket not spanner) and withdraw the ABS sensor.



Then undo the 19mm top ball joint nut and the lower ball joint clamp nut and bolt. Remove this completely as you won't lift it out if it is still in. This one is loctited in so make sure that you put threadlock on the bolt when you put it back together.


I didn't take a photo of this nut and bolt, sorry was swearing a lot by this time!!

Then using a ball joint separator, separate the top and bottom ball jints.

Once this is done, using a smallish lever you can extract the top ball joint from the car.

Tap the bottom of the hub and pull it free and hey presto you have a hub out.

Refitting is a reversal of the process, just remember to put threadlock on the bolts that needed it and torque up to the required settings.

Last edited by Captain Klang; 25-07-2010 at 12:42. Reason: Incomplete
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 25-07-2010, 12:52
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Nice one Rob, this would be same apart from removing the big centre nut, for doing a wheel bearing/

Rep addad
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 25-07-2010, 21:43 Thread Starter
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Yeah, it would. I purchased a 12v impact wrench from Machine Mart to assist, but I've got to be honest, I found it a bit lacking. They do have a 240v one for about 68 which goes up to 450Nm. Birthday pressie I think!!

Incidentally, I had a fail on my rear wheel bearing too, hence why I changed the front hub. When I went to remove the centre hub nut, I found this only just over finger tight. This seemed to be the cause of the wobble on testing. There was only a slight bit of play but once I tightened it up, solid as a rock.

I spent a good 45 minutes trying to get the disc off when it suddenly occurred to me, what the hell am I doing this for??? I was replacing it anyway!!!

Having a complete nightmare trying to get the other side one off, try as I might it will not shift. Any ideas? Have tried whacking it with a rubber mallet but I didn't want to hit it with a lump hammer in case it broke the disc on the hub leaving me in a worse pickle.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 22-04-2011, 08:42
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Talking

Thank you! This has really helped me visualise the task in hand!

I'll be changing the whole hub (along with upper and lower ball joints) to attempt in solving an awful squeak and wheel shudder which is only apparent under breaking.

Fingers crossed this solves the puzzle!

Thanks again!

Tris.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 22-04-2011, 11:23
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Don't forget to get the 4 wheel alignment done after any work on the hubs.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 22-04-2011, 19:36
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Seems you have done a similar job to the one I have just done on Flying Ashtray.
You make it sound a doddle of a job.
Not so!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
See my MOT thread of yesterday.
Every nu & bolt was a fight to the death, most knurling or shearing in the process.
Had to use every trick in the book using

Penetrating fluid
Impact driver
Angle grinder
Power drill
Irwin extractors
Box of frabric plasters
AND...Most useful of all my mother in law's phrasebook of German invective, Written by herself of course!!!!!!!!!!!!!

In the end I got the swivels off and replaced quite quickly according to the MOT tester.
Mind you, mine have been on the car for 15 years and 104,000 miles undisturbed so, like your average teenager, they didn't appreciate being moved.

Mykul

PS: You missed the bit about having to prise open the bottom swivel where the pinch bolt has compressd it onto the lower ball joint.

Good stuff anyway.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 22-04-2011, 19:55
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Interesting point!
How did you manage to remove the ABS senser bolt ??????????????
Mine were corroded in something rotten and welded to the plastic carriers which were a little bit destroyed when I tried to slide them off the bolt after what was left of the head had been ground off.

Mykul
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 22-04-2011, 20:23
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When I did my hubs I didn't remove the ABS due to prior warnings, I just followed the wire up to the conector above the wheel, maybe 25 cm or so and disconected a push/pull conector, just remember it is there when positioning in the press to remove the old and install the new bearing as you dont want to crush the wires.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 22-04-2011, 20:32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryB View Post
When I did my hubs I didn't remove the ABS due to prior warnings, I just followed the wire up to the conector above the wheel, maybe 25 cm or so and disconected a push/pull conector, just remember it is there when positioning in the press to remove the old and install the new bearing as you dont want to crush the wires.
Yeh!
I know that now.

Mykul
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 22-04-2011, 20:40
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we live and learn :-)
well, maybe not all of us, my two lads for example.... no, I'll stop there, hahaha.
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 31-07-2011, 15:49
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How the hell do you get the bottom out... I can barely fit a ball joint separator in the gap, let alone use it :S I've removed the bolt though the clamp around the shaft, but can't get it out. It does look like it has an allen key top in it. Do I need to remove bit that spins that's the back half of the bit you attach the wheel nuts too?
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-08-2011, 07:29
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bump, anyone?
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-08-2011, 07:42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derek_bartram View Post
How the hell do you get the bottom out... I can barely fit a ball joint separator in the gap, let alone use it :S I've removed the bolt though the clamp around the shaft, but can't get it out. It does look like it has an allen key top in it. Do I need to remove bit that spins that's the back half of the bit you attach the wheel nuts too?
Derek,
I had the same problem splitting the ball joint from the wishbone.

If you drift a small chisel or a large screwdriver into the gap (just to open it a small amount) from the clamp where you removed the bolt to make sure you have enough room around the pin and then it is a matter of getting the angle right between the ball joint and wishbone and knocking it off.
I was the same as you untill i realised that the angle was wrong, once that was corrected I hit the wishbone with a hammer and it nearly fell off.

Clive
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-08-2011, 07:47
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Originally Posted by Mgwanderer View Post
Derek,
I had the same problem splitting the ball joint from the wishbone.

If you drift a small chisel or a large screwdriver into the gap (just to open it a small amount) from the clamp where you removed the bolt to make sure you have enough room around the pin and then it is a matter of getting the angle right between the ball joint and wishbone and knocking it off.
I was the same as you untill i realised that the angle was wrong, once that was corrected I hit the wishbone with a hammer and it nearly fell off.

Clive
Great, i'll give that a try.. thank you
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-08-2011, 17:33
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Good god that was hard work!!!! Thank you very much though... it did the job and they are now out
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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-04-2013, 20:23
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Old thread revival - do you need to remove the hub nub (the big one in the middle to get the hub off ? im replacing the hub due to a faulty bearing

Im assuming the bearings need a press to get them in ?
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-04-2013, 20:48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl View Post
Old thread revival - do you need to remove the hub nub (the big one in the middle to get the hub off ? im replacing the hub due to a faulty bearing

Im assuming the bearings need a press to get them in ?
Yes to both.
You will also need a press to remove the old bearings. First the drive flange is pressed out which usually comes out complete with the inner part of the bearing which then needs the press to push it off. Second, after removing the retaining circlips, press the bearing out of the hub.
After a good clean up with a wire brush replacement is pretty much a reversal of the above but it is a good idea to put one of the circlips in place to act as a stop. Plus, of course, loads of lubricating oil.

Hope this helps

Mike
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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-04-2013, 23:57
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I just did this job on a 54,000km car that spent it's like in a dry, salt-free climate and undoing the nuts a bolts was a breeze...Until it came to getting the top ball joint to spring free. I used penetrating oil, and heat and it only just came apart at the point where I thought my splitter was going to self-destruct.
That must have added an hour to the job!
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 13-04-2013, 00:25
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I really should read what I post on , I googled rover 75 hub change and this thread came up so I posted without reading



Not changing the hub on our F
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