How to change a handbrake cable. - MG-Rover.org Forums
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rating: Thread Rating: 5 votes, 5.00 average. Display Modes
post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 16-04-2009, 15:58 Thread Starter
CJJ
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Ashington, Northumberland
Car: MGTF 160, TF LE500, Nissan Leaf, KTM 990, Kangoo Van, Freelander 2.
Posts: 33,143
How to change a handbrake cable.

As you may remember, when I started the job of removing the subframe I found that the stainless exhaust flexi pipe had caused heat damage to the offside handbrake cable.



So I bought a new cable and set about fitting it.

Firstly, you need to put the rear end up on ramps or axle stands so that you can get access to the various fixings.

Chock the front wheels to prevent movement and release the handbrake.

Disconect the cable from the caliper mechanism. This is simply a small pin which connects the cable end to the caliper and is secured with a spring clip, a bit like a p clip. The pin will normally be seized in place, so apply plenty of release oil to free it up, trying not to get any oil on the disc or pads. My pins were especially difficult to remove. After lots of "persuation" I dedided to find a nut which fitted over the head of the pin and use mole grips to apply pressure and force the pin from the back into the nut. This worked well.

Once the pin is out you can release the spring clip that holds the cable outer to the braket. You can use a screwdriver to knock the clip off.



Next you need to unbolt a small bracket on the rear bulkhead/boot wall. This is held in place by 2x 10mm bolts.



The cable now goes up and over the gearbox, where it is fastened to a bracket which is part of the airbox bracket. Remove the cable from this bracket and pull the cable over the top of the gearbox.



Next you need to go to the lower part of the front bulkhead where there is a cable entry area sealed by 2 metal plates.



Remove 5x 8mm bolts which hold the small plate in place, pull the plate away and release the grommet and cable that you are replacing. You only need to remove the small plate, but I removed both as I will be de rusting them.



It is worth mentioning here that you will most likely have a subframe in the way. Mine was removed for other jobs that I had to do. You may have to drop the subframe a little to give more room.

Once the plate is removed, the only thing holding the cable in place is the handbrake mechanism.

Now, moving to the handbrake area, you need to remove the cubby box and armrest. The cubby/CD holder simply unclips and pulls out. The armrest is held in by 4 screws in the hinge area and 2 at the front. Remove the armrest and store it somewhere safe.



This gives you access to the handbrake mechanism. Not nutch room though



The cables are held in place by a double clamp and the cable ends are held on an equaliser bracket.

Remove the double clamp by undoing the 2x 13mm bolts. They are a little awkward to get at and are very tight.



Unscrew the adjuster nut, shown in the centre of the diagram, and remove.



The equaliser bracket will now slide off the threaded rod from the handbrake. Unhook the cable ends by rotating 90 degrees so that the cable lines up with the cutout on the equaliser bracket, and remove.



The old cable is now free to pull out through the engine bay.

The next pic shows the old damaged cable next to the new cable.



The damage to the cable was either radiated heat from the stainless exhaust, or hot gasses when the flexi section hanger failed last time. To prevent this happening again, I bought some heat shielding tube. It is called DEI Cool Tube Extreme and cost me about 34 for 3ft of 1" tube. It is supposed to withstand up to 750 degrees. It comes in 4 colours, and I chose.......



If anyone wants to add this to their cable, after fitting a stainless 4-2-1 manifold, then I have 2ft left and you can have a foot for 10+p&p.

Now you can feed the new cable in from the engine bay along to the handbrake. This is fairly easy, but may be more difficult with the subframe in the equation.

Refit the cable clamp



And attach the cable ends to the equaliser bracket.



Now comes the fiddly bit. There is a pin that sits in the middle of the equaliser bracket that the threaded rod from the handbrake feeds through (It is probably lying in the handbrake tunnel as it fell out earlier). Fit the pin, with the hole facing the rod, and secure it with a bit of masking tape (otherwise it will keep falling out) and feed the rod through the hole. You might need a torch to see what you are doing. Screw the adjuster nut onto the rod enough to hold it securely in place. Don't worry aboutadjusting it at this point.



Make ure that the cable outers are fully in the clamps, as it could muck up your adjusting if they are not. You can see that the right hand cable outer is not fully in the clamp shown above.

Now go back to the engine compartment. Feed the new cable through the bulkhead tunnel sealing plate and secure the shaped grommet in place.

Bolt the plate back in place using the 5x 8mm bolts that you removed earlier.



Now feed the cable back over the gearbox and secure it to the airbox bracket. Bolt the bracket onto the rear bulhed/boot wall that you removed earlier and feed the cable back to the caliper.

If you lowered the subframe then bolt it back in place.

Now attach the cable outer to the caliper bracket with the spring clip and attach the cable end to the handbrake mechanism with the pin and spring clip that you removed earlier.



Lower the car back to the ground, but keep the chocks in place to stop the car from moving.

Go back to the handbrake and screw the adjuster nut in until the handbrake engages in 2 to 3 clicks of the ratchet and fully releases when off.



Now refit the cubby box and armrest and you are finished.

You may need to readjust the cable after it has had time to settle, but apart from that, you should now have a working handbrake.
CJJ is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 16-04-2009, 16:06
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Herts
Car: MG TF 160
Posts: 7,069
Blog Entries: 12
Another great How too!!
Reaper is offline  
post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 16-04-2009, 16:21
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Burnley
Car: Nissan X Trail 2.2 Dci
Posts: 1,504
Wow, excellent guide, although I hope I never have to undertake such a thing.
Villager is offline  
 
post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 16-04-2009, 16:53
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: North Norfolk
Car: MG TF 160 in Trophy Yellow
Posts: 47,846
brilliant CJJ
Petevick is offline  
post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 16-04-2009, 19:04 Thread Starter
CJJ
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Ashington, Northumberland
Car: MGTF 160, TF LE500, Nissan Leaf, KTM 990, Kangoo Van, Freelander 2.
Posts: 33,143
Quote:
Originally Posted by Villager View Post
Wow, excellent guide, although I hope I never have to undertake such a thing.
Easier than I thought it would be, but how much of that is down to no subframe I don't know.
CJJ is offline  
post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 16-04-2009, 19:10
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: North Norfolk
Car: MG TF 160 in Trophy Yellow
Posts: 47,846
Quote:
Originally Posted by CJJ View Post
Easier than I thought it would be, but how much of that is down to no subframe I don't know.
I would guess removal of the cable entry plate could be a tad tiresome with the engine in place
Petevick is offline  
post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 20-02-2011, 21:18
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: No Place - Beamish co durham.
Car: MGF Trophy 160 - Miss lemons ; Fiat Seicento "ahem.... Sporting.... ahem"
Posts: 4,897
Blog Entries: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Petevick View Post
I would guess removal of the cable entry plate could be a tad tiresome with the engine in place
as im about to discover
Iain160Trophy is offline  
post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 20-02-2011, 21:22
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Car: MGF
Posts: 2,043
.... there needs to be pix.... no.... better still video
g7nbp is offline  
post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 20-02-2011, 21:24 Thread Starter
CJJ
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Ashington, Northumberland
Car: MGTF 160, TF LE500, Nissan Leaf, KTM 990, Kangoo Van, Freelander 2.
Posts: 33,143
Quote:
Originally Posted by g7nbp View Post
.... there needs to be pix.... no.... better still video
To catch the swearing?
CJJ is offline  
post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 20-02-2011, 21:31
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Car: MGF
Posts: 2,043
Quote:
Originally Posted by CJJ View Post
To catch the swearing?

Yup...

Or if you use a socket wrench with engine and subframe in place the look of sudden realisation that you have just trapped the back of the wrench and now you cant reverse the direction and its stuck forever.... and I know Im not alone in this as Ive seen another post describing the exact same moment of "duh!"... thats 200 worth if emailed to harry hill
g7nbp is offline  
post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 20-02-2011, 21:51
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: No Place - Beamish co durham.
Car: MGF Trophy 160 - Miss lemons ; Fiat Seicento "ahem.... Sporting.... ahem"
Posts: 4,897
Blog Entries: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by g7nbp View Post
Yup...

Or if you use a socket wrench with engine and subframe in place the look of sudden realisation that you have just trapped the back of the wrench and now you cant reverse the direction and its stuck forever.... and I know Im not alone in this as Ive seen another post describing the exact same moment of "duh!"... thats 200 worth if emailed to harry hill
I have a magic spanner and a clive, all will be well
Iain160Trophy is offline  
post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 20-02-2011, 22:16
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sutton, Surrey
Car: MG TF 160 - Pearl Black
Posts: 4,443
Blog Entries: 8
Send a message via MSN to Kameleon
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iain160Trophy View Post
I have a magic spanner and a clive, all will be well
One and the same thing?
Kameleon is offline  
post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 20-02-2011, 22:19
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Car: MGF
Posts: 2,043
Clive is a magic spanner??


Well possibly half right??
g7nbp is offline  
post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 21-02-2011, 02:21 Thread Starter
CJJ
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Ashington, Northumberland
Car: MGTF 160, TF LE500, Nissan Leaf, KTM 990, Kangoo Van, Freelander 2.
Posts: 33,143
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kameleon View Post
One and the same thing?
Quote:
Originally Posted by g7nbp View Post
Clive is a magic spanner??


Well possibly half right??
Oi you two. I've just finished telling everyone how tolerant I am and I don't bear grudges.

Don't make me into a liar.
CJJ is offline  
post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 21-02-2011, 02:54
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Devon
Car: 1997 mgf 1.8i Tahiti blue, , 1996 mgf 1.8i amaranth.
Posts: 18,573
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iain160Trophy View Post
I have a magic spanner called clive, all will be well
Just because he is top poster this month its not right you calling him names, and can I point out the typo.
steve1951 is offline  
post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 21-02-2011, 06:30 Thread Starter
CJJ
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Ashington, Northumberland
Car: MGTF 160, TF LE500, Nissan Leaf, KTM 990, Kangoo Van, Freelander 2.
Posts: 33,143
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve1951 View Post
Just because he is top poster this month its not right you calling him names, and can I point out the typo.
Oooh, you are still around. I was gonna pm you to see where you were hiding.
CJJ is offline  
post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 21-02-2011, 10:15
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Devon
Car: 1997 mgf 1.8i Tahiti blue, , 1996 mgf 1.8i amaranth.
Posts: 18,573
In hiding, still read a lot but dont post anywhere near as much now. Due to all the crap going on on here.
steve1951 is offline  
post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 21-02-2011, 10:19
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: North Norfolk
Car: MG TF 160 in Trophy Yellow
Posts: 47,846
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve1951 View Post
In hiding, still read a lot but dont post anywhere near as much now. Due to all the crap going on on here.
its all stopped Steve, toys have been collected and placed back in pram. Its all quiet on the .org front
Petevick is offline  
post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 21-02-2011, 10:25
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Devon
Car: 1997 mgf 1.8i Tahiti blue, , 1996 mgf 1.8i amaranth.
Posts: 18,573
Quote:
Originally Posted by Petevick View Post
its all stopped Steve, toys have been collected and placed back in pram. Its all quiet on the .org front
Cheers Pete, that means a whole lot more to me than you will ever know, but sadly its only half true.

Respect

Steve
steve1951 is offline  
post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 21-02-2011, 17:04 Thread Starter
CJJ
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Ashington, Northumberland
Car: MGTF 160, TF LE500, Nissan Leaf, KTM 990, Kangoo Van, Freelander 2.
Posts: 33,143
But Steve...I luuurve you, and you Pete
CJJ is offline  
Reply

Bookmarks

Tags
f/tf handbrake, f/tf how to

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the MG-Rover.org Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Linear Mode Linear Mode
Rate This Thread:



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Handbrake Cable Jonty MG ZS / Rover 45 & 400 3 14-04-2009 11:23
handbrake cable jb25 MG ZT / Rover 75 (Sponsored by Rimmer Bros) 5 18-07-2008 08:50
handbrake cable how to ? DJMARK MGF and MGTF (Sponsored by MGFnTFBITZ) 2 31-01-2008 17:30
Handbrake Cable XPower Gray Wanted 0 25-02-2005 19:09
Handbrake cable geeza76 Others 5 08-03-2003 09:13

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome