HOW TO change underfloor coolant pipes - MG-Rover.org Forums
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 20-12-2008, 03:35 Thread Starter
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HOW TO change underfloor coolant pipes

As you know, I found a puddle under the MIG last weekend due to rusted coolant pipes...


View from under the car showing rust at welded bracket on coolant pipe
(Just realised looking at this pic, how low my car actually is....check the distance from the garage floor - lower righ hand side of pic - the the bottom of the underside tray...it looks about an inch or slightly more )

Ordered a new set from Sydney for $180 + GST + $28 freight...arrived on Friday.

The first thing I did was spray lanolin/fish oil around the welded brackets on the new set of pipes to give them a little bit mopre protection from rust in the future...


Got it into the cracks and crevases

Then jacked the car up at one side and removed the rear hoses from the pipes to drain the coolant. Squeeze the hose clamps and move them along the hose, then spend some effort getting the hoses off the pipes. They are likely to be stuck to the pipes so move them around a bit to "crack" the seal and pull off. This was the most awkward bit of the whole process.



Draining the coolant...



Romove the front hoses when the coolant has drained using the same method, then clip the zip ties from the pipes which hold the wiring loom to the side of them...



I have air con, so the air con pipe is also zip tied to the other side of the coolant pipes. Snip these off as well.

Then remove the 24 bolts (yes thats right...24 of them) that hold the steel tray under the car. Easy enough, just lots of them!

My tray showed a bit of damage from speed bumps when I took it off...



So I derusted it with acid and sprayed black again to protect it.



Next undo the 3 bolts that hold the coolant pipes in place and remove.



This is the inside of the old pipes...

I applied gasket seal to the ends of the new pipes (if you do this just before you bolt them into place on the car, it helps ease the hoses back onto the new pipes...makes it very easy then seals it tight when it dries).

Bolted the pipes in place, zip tied the wiring loom and air con tubes back to where they were, replaced the steel tray and was all done.



Bled the system using advice from the MG-Rover.org site and all was good until this...



The top sheared off the radiator bleed screw which is made of plastic so I had to remove it and go buy another (cost me $40 in a cab to buy a $3 fitting as the wife had taken her car into town today ).

I bled the heater nipple which needed to be taken off and poked a bit as it was blocked (a very common thing) before coolant would flow through it.

I tried later to bleed the radiator return pipe but couldnt get anything to come out, even with the car jacked up at the back, so removed the screw, ensured there was plenty of coolant in the header tank and started the engine. This emitted all the air then coolant through the hole...quickly put screw back in and all done!

TIP ON BLEEDING HEATER NIPPLE: If you don't intend to flush the coolant system, before starting this procedure, make sure the heater is set to the COOLEST setting...ie not on. This traps coolant in the heater pipes. Then when after you refill the coolant AND BEFORE YOU BLEED THE SYSTEM put the heater to HOTTEST setting. This will then allow you to bleed it with less hassle than usual as there should be no air in the heater unit.

It worked well for me. Then a quick drive, cool down and check coolant in header tank and under car for leaks.


OH...time taken - to get hoses off coolant pipes - 1 hour. To stuff about with other bits, paint underbody tray etc - 1 hour. To refit, check everything and bleed - 1 hour. (3hrs total.)

Last edited by designad; 20-12-2008 at 07:54.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 20-12-2008, 07:18
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Buddy....all I can say is :
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 20-12-2008, 07:44 Thread Starter
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Im sorry the picture quality wasnt better but I was covered in coolant so using a little $20 jobbie from the servo...at least it took photos!
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 20-12-2008, 08:31
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Thats an excellent post. I am hoping that Father Christmas will bring me some from Mike Satur (yes I know what a sad git!). Was going to ask my mechanic to do it but with these instructions feel confident to have a go myself. Many Thanks. Have a great Christmas down there!
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 20-12-2008, 08:34 Thread Starter
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It wasn;t hard at all...and well worth saving the money! I can't get stainless pipes here so had to do with the OEM ones
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 20-12-2008, 08:44
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Seems easy enough following the thread - wish I'd have had the time to do my own now.

Had mine done last Tuesday and cost me 2 hours labour 80 +vat

anyhows got my stainless steel pipes from this guy so hope the link is of use to others

http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/ges3762/
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 20-12-2008, 09:48
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Well done!
Have some rep

Looks like the bolts around the plate came out with no problem, I know some people struggle with those.

Looking at the damage on that plate, I would say you need to lift the suspension a bit!

It's a good job they don't have to use salt on the roads over there, or that plate would have looked like a piece of tattered lace.

David
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 20-12-2008, 10:08 Thread Starter
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Actually taking notice how low the plate was to the ground was a bit of a shock so a slight lift would be a good idea I think

Thanks for the rep guys!

Last edited by designad; 20-12-2008 at 10:29.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 20-12-2008, 10:49
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Too low? You can always blow up your hydrolastic suspension. I managed to increase ground clearance by 2" just by upping the pressure to 50 psi above std. No more probs with those humps.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 20-12-2008, 10:50
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I want to do mine in the New Year. This gives me the confdence to have a go myself. I want the stainless steel ones so I can fit and forget. My biggest concern is the bleeding but obviously you got on OK with the instructions on this forum.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 20-12-2008, 14:15
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I dont know why they didnt use better pipes especially for a critical application such as the coolant. When you buy them new they look like they are already starting to rot.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 20-12-2008, 15:39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ampthetex View Post
I dont know why they didnt use better pipes especially for a critical application such as the coolant. When you buy them new they look like they are already starting to rot.
you must have bought some seriously dodgy ones then, all the new steel pipes I've seen looked fine to me.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 20-12-2008, 18:54 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zor View Post
I want to do mine in the New Year. This gives me the confdence to have a go myself. I want the stainless steel ones so I can fit and forget. My biggest concern is the bleeding but obviously you got on OK with the instructions on this forum.
Yes the advice I got here about bleeding worked easily, remembering that the heater nipple will probably need a bit of wire stuck in it to clear it, and running the engine for a few seconds when bleeding the radiator return pipe. No problems at all.

It's a shame I cant get stainless pipes over here, but when you consider that the steel ones probably have a lifespan of 10 years, I doubt I will have the same car in 10 years time.
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