How to fit stainless steel under floor coolant pipes. - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #1 of 51 (permalink) Old 16-10-2009, 06:39 Thread Starter
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How to fit stainless steel under floor coolant pipes.

One of the mods really worth doing to your F/TF is to change the under floor coolant pipes for stainless steel ones. The standard ones are very prone to rust and failure, leading to leaks and possible engine damage/HGF due to lack of coolant.

These were my pipes, and while they hadn't failed, it was only a matter of time looking at them.







Raise the car off the ground so that you have plenty of room to work. Do not work under the car unless it is properly supported on at least axle stands, NOT just on jacks. I used ramps as they are more secure.



Before removing the old under floor pipes we need to drain the coolant.

First take the coolant expansion tank cap off.

The best place to drain the coolant off is at the front end of the under floor coolant pipes. Remove the clips by pressing the ends together and sliding them along the pipe away from the connection. The rubber hose will be stuck on the metal pipe after years of sitting in place. I loosened them by gripping them with mole grips, or similar, and turning until the seal is broken.



Rather than pulling the hose straight off and getting soaked I slid a screwdriver down the inside of the hose to create a small bleed.



Now just leave that to drain. Check once in a while to make sure that the container doesn't overflow.

Be careful as it is easy to get the coolant in your eyes. Obviously I didn't, being the professional that I is. I said I didn't, right. And it stings, er, or so I heard somewhere.

You can aid the draining by opening the bleed points.

There is one at the top nearside of the radiator. Be very careful when opening this one as it is only plastic and often shears off. If it does shear off then one of the ways to remove the remaining threaded portion is to heat up a screwdriver end to F hot and melt it into the plastic bolt, let it cool and screw it out.



While you are under the bonnet, remove the plastic cover on the bulkhead and you will see another bleed point for the heater matrix. Make sure that you have the heater set to hot to allow the coolant to drain.



And one in the engine compartment, above the starter motor.



As I am going to be removing the coolant pipes to fit the new stainless pipes, I needed to take the belly pan off.



Remove the 22 bolts and remove the belly pan. Keep the bolts somewhere safe.



Snip the tie wraps that secure the starter motor cable to the coolant pipe brackets





Unclip the rear coolant hoses from the pipes



and remove them. A fair bit of coolant will come out. Be careful not to get it in your eyes or on your skin. If you do, then flush with copious amounts of fresh water.



Now, unbolt the 3 10mm bolts and remove the pipes.



These are the removed pipes alongside the new stainless steel ones. They were 68.05 + 9.95 P&P from Sussex Classic Car Parts.



They seem to be exact copies and I was even surprised that they had new tie wraps fitted.



The under floor area where the pipes were is cleaner than I thought it would be. I will be waxoiled it before fitting the new pipes.



I also bought some stainless steel jubilee clips to replace the old ones.



Now, simply bolt the new pipes in place, clip the starter cable back in and connect the rubber hoses.

It now looks a lot shinier.



It almost seems a shame to put the floor pan back on, but it is part of the body strengthening, so bolt it back on.



Now all that is left is to refill the coolant system, bleed any air out, check for leaks and the job is done.
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post #2 of 51 (permalink) Old 16-10-2009, 06:41
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There is litterally no stopping you eh clive?

Good work and very clear photos
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post #3 of 51 (permalink) Old 16-10-2009, 06:48
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goddammit CJJ!

I already changed mine a few months ago.

Now you make a new how-to, I'm gonna have to change them again.




btw. Looks like you've got radioactive coolant fluid.

Must admit, great how-to. As always!
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post #4 of 51 (permalink) Old 16-10-2009, 06:51
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excellent Clive. I think with this one I may have to look at doing a CJJ section on my web site...........
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post #5 of 51 (permalink) Old 16-10-2009, 07:01
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another great how to clive ,well done
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post #6 of 51 (permalink) Old 16-10-2009, 07:16
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Cheers Clive, thats on our to do list, so make things easier.
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post #7 of 51 (permalink) Old 16-10-2009, 07:43
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Fantastic!! One of the jobs i need to do on mine over the next 6 months. Not that they need doing yet just because i want to.

What size jubilee clips did you buy?
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post #8 of 51 (permalink) Old 16-10-2009, 07:47 Thread Starter
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Fantastic!! One of the jobs i need to do on mine over the next 6 months. Not that they need doing yet just because i want to.

What size jubilee clips did you buy?
Good question. I will check when I get time.
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post #9 of 51 (permalink) Old 16-10-2009, 08:07
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Good question. I will check when I get time.
Thanks very much!
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post #10 of 51 (permalink) Old 16-10-2009, 08:17
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I got my SS pipes and SS clips from Mike Satur, his web site says which ones you need; 32-50mm.

His underfloor coolent pipes are on offer at 57 at the mo....
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post #11 of 51 (permalink) Old 16-10-2009, 08:27
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Originally Posted by Reaper View Post
I got my SS pipes and SS clips from Mike Satur, his web site says which ones you need; 32-50mm.

His underfloor coolent pipes are on offer at 57 at the mo....
57? Fantastic!!!
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post #12 of 51 (permalink) Old 16-10-2009, 08:46
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Excellent write up as always Clive

I'd like to give rep but have to spread around first
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post #13 of 51 (permalink) Old 16-10-2009, 11:57
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Quality how to as usual CJJ.

I still think you have a glamourous assitant to take pics for you, as whenever I start a how to, I forget to take pics after about 15 minutes of working
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post #14 of 51 (permalink) Old 16-10-2009, 12:29
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Great how to but two questions:
  1. I have crawled under the TF a couple of times and found there is not a lot of room and wonder how you managed to do what you did without the car being on a lift or over a pit (you might of course be a lot slimmer than my cuddly 19st / 6ft2 frame!!!) and
  2. How do you get you socket wrench to seemingly hover upside down under your car (now that is clever)
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post #15 of 51 (permalink) Old 16-10-2009, 12:33
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Originally Posted by Ian_R View Post
Great how to but two questions:
  1. I have crawled under the TF a couple of times and found there is not a lot of room and wonder how you managed to do what you did without the car being on a lift or over a pit (you might of course be a lot slimmer than my cuddly 19st / 6ft2 frame!!!) and
  2. How do you get you socket wrench to seemingly hover upside down under your car (now that is clever)
1. I ahve done it on the street. just jack up the front (or ramps as CJJ has done), then do the same at the back (make sure its on a level ). Or park one side of car up on a kerb, and jack the front and rear of the other. I am no Victoria Beckham and I managed no probs going ubndert the car to do pipes etc.

2. Its clive. he is the magic MG man
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post #16 of 51 (permalink) Old 16-10-2009, 14:45 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian_R View Post
Great how to but two questions:
  1. I have crawled under the TF a couple of times and found there is not a lot of room and wonder how you managed to do what you did without the car being on a lift or over a pit (you might of course be a lot slimmer than my cuddly 19st / 6ft2 frame!!!) and
  2. How do you get you socket wrench to seemingly hover upside down under your car (now that is clever)
1. You obviously missed this bit

Raise the car off the ground so that you have plenty of room to work. Do not work under the car unless it is properly supported on at least axle stands, NOT just on jacks. I used ramps as they are more secure.



2. I can control metal objects with the power of my mind. It's a gift. Great at a party.
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post #17 of 51 (permalink) Old 16-10-2009, 14:47
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1. You obviously missed this bit

Raise the car off the ground so that you have plenty of room to work. Do not work under the car unless it is properly supported on at least axle stands, NOT just on jacks. I used ramps as they are more secure.



2. I can control metal objects with the power of my mind. It's a gift. Great at a party.
Always thought you were a bender














































Spoon bender, that is.
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post #18 of 51 (permalink) Old 16-10-2009, 15:01 Thread Starter
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Always thought you were a bender
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post #19 of 51 (permalink) Old 16-10-2009, 17:23
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Thanks & Rep

Been thinking of doing ( just in case )
This will give me great confidence.
Cheers
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post #20 of 51 (permalink) Old 16-10-2009, 20:19
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The pipes corrode worse where they can't be seen between the belly pan and floor, and especially inside where the welded claps are fixed to the pipes. Do not be deceived if your pipes look superficially OK even on a car 4-5 years old. I wonder how long the "SS" pipes will last especially on the spot welds?
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