One of the mods really worth doing to your F/TF is to change the under floor coolant pipes for stainless steel ones. The standard ones are very prone to rust and failure, leading to leaks and possible engine damage/HGF due to lack of coolant.
These were my pipes, and while they hadn't failed, it was only a matter of time looking at them.
Raise the car off the ground so that you have plenty of room to work. Do not work under the car unless it is properly supported on at least axle stands, NOT just on jacks. I used ramps as they are more secure.
Before removing the old under floor pipes we need to drain the coolant.
First take the coolant expansion tank cap off.
The best place to drain the coolant off is at the front end of the under floor coolant pipes. Remove the clips by pressing the ends together and sliding them along the pipe away from the connection. The rubber hose will be stuck on the metal pipe after years of sitting in place. I loosened them by gripping them with mole grips, or similar, and turning until the seal is broken.
Rather than pulling the hose straight off and getting soaked I slid a screwdriver down the inside of the hose to create a small bleed.
Now just leave that to drain. Check once in a while to make sure that the container doesn't overflow.
Be careful as it is easy to get the coolant in your eyes. Obviously I didn't, being the professional that I is. I said I didn't, right. And it stings, er, or so I heard somewhere.
You can aid the draining by opening the bleed points.
There is one at the top nearside of the radiator. Be very careful when opening this one as it is only plastic and often shears off. If it does shear off then one of the ways to remove the remaining threaded portion is to heat up a screwdriver end to F hot and melt it into the plastic bolt, let it cool and screw it out.
While you are under the bonnet, remove the plastic cover on the bulkhead and you will see another bleed point for the heater matrix. Make sure that you have the heater set to hot to allow the coolant to drain.
And one in the engine compartment, above the starter motor.
As I am going to be removing the coolant pipes to fit the new stainless pipes, I needed to take the belly pan off.
Remove the 22 bolts and remove the belly pan. Keep the bolts somewhere safe.
Snip the tie wraps that secure the starter motor cable to the coolant pipe brackets
Unclip the rear coolant hoses from the pipes
and remove them. A fair bit of coolant will come out. Be careful not to get it in your eyes or on your skin. If you do, then flush with copious amounts of fresh water.
Now, unbolt the 3 10mm bolts and remove the pipes.
These are the removed pipes alongside the new stainless steel ones. They were £68.05 + £9.95 P&P from Sussex Classic Car Parts.
They seem to be exact copies and I was even surprised that they had new tie wraps fitted.
The under floor area where the pipes were is cleaner than I thought it would be. I will be waxoiled it before fitting the new pipes.
I also bought some stainless steel jubilee clips to replace the old ones.
Now, simply bolt the new pipes in place, clip the starter cable back in and connect the rubber hoses.
It now looks a lot shinier.
It almost seems a shame to put the floor pan back on, but it is part of the body strengthening, so bolt it back on.
Now all that is left is to refill the coolant system, bleed any air out, check for leaks and the job is done.