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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 21-01-2008, 19:28 Thread Starter
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How to - Fitting a new exhaust. Picture Heavy

Well, guess what I was up to today in the rain and snow?



Yep, fitting a new awning to the TF. Just me and my TF and a campsite MMMmmm.

Well actually, I got Psd off waiting for the rain and snow to stop. Been waiting since yesterday. So I found a a use for the extremely large tarp' that I bought in a Halfords sale (new it would come in handy.

Reversed the car up onto the ramps and erected the makeshift cover. That and the 1Kw light kept me dry and warm.

So first I soaked my nuts in penetrating oil, then I thought I better get on with the car .



This is the other joint (back box to Cat). I decided to leave this one after I discovered all the nuts were well and trully seized.



The easing oil didn't work, so I ended up drilling down the side of each nut, hitting with a cold chisel, hammering a socket on and then relying on brute force. It did the trick.

A lot of people just gind the nuts off, but there is very little space and I forgot to buy some discs



It is well worth removing the O2 sensor from the Cat pipe at this point, if you can. I couldn't. It was well and truly seized on.



Here is a better view of it. It is a 22mm nut but there is hardly any room to get any weight behind the spanner.



For these reasons I unplugged the sensor up just beside the ECU. You need to unplug it and then disengage the socket from the metal bracket (just pull it upwards wit a bit of force), which allows the cable to pull through to the exhaust. This allowed me to use a lot of force to remove the sensor once the exhaust was removed. Spanners work much better when you are standing on them.



Once this is disconnected and the 3 nuts are removed it is a case of seperating the flanges (you need to bend the lugs from the bracket that holds the backbox strap in place). Once the flange is seperated you need to unbolt the backbox offside hanger and remove it.



And then, using a suitable lever (I used a hammer handle) remove the hanger from the rubber.



Also, remember to remove the vacuum pipe from the exhaust emmision control valve on the offside exhaust pipe. It is just a rubber push on (or pull off) connection.


Last edited by CJJ; 15-07-2010 at 23:01.
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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 21-01-2008, 20:12 Thread Starter
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Once the hanger bracket and the vacuum pipe to the valve are removed you can slide the backbox towards the nearside of the car and dissengage the second hanger. The backbox and cat can now be lowered to the floor and removed.

Remove the hanger bracket from the new exhaust



And push the new backbox into place on the nearside hanger.



Now push the offside hanger into the rubber hole and bolt onto the backbox. This will hold the backbox in place.



Now that the backbox is taking it's own weight, you can bolt the sports cat (or decat) pipe in place. It might be worth attaching the O2 sensor back on the new cat at this point. I didn't and it was a pain to do in situ. A soft metal gasket fits between the cat and the downpipe and another between the cat and backbox. Some people like to use exhaust paste as well. I haven't bothered as I wanted to see how effective the gaskets were. Insert the 3 bolts at each flange and add the nuts (Copper or stainless are best if you want to get the thing off next time. Don't forget the bracket for the strap (I did and had to take the nuts off again) at the downpipe end.



This shows the strap and bracket on the old exhaust.



Once everything is in place tighten the 3 flange bolts at each end. Then place the strap around the backbox and bracket and tighten that into place (just like a big jubilee clip with a bolt instead of a worm drive).

Now that everything is in place you can fit the finishers which just slide over the exhaust pipes. I went for the quads but there are ovals etc.



Make sure that they sit centrally in the bumper holes otherwise they may knock and/or melt the bumper.



Now you can tighten the finishers in place with the supplied U bolts.



Last thing to do is block the vacuum tube (I used a self tapping screw) and tiewrap it safely out of the way.



You should also remember to refit the O2 sensor plug back onto the bracket and reconnect it.

Check all of your connections are secure and take it for a test drive.

And for those of you who said this was the inoffensive exhaust, I would hate to hear the Miltek. Sounds nice though, and seems to pull better. Just feel sorry for the neighbours when I leave for work at 6am on a Sunday morning.

The setup that I have fitted is a Daytona backbox and a Janspeed sports cat, all stainless steel.

I forgot to mention at the beginning, but if you are working under the car make sure that you chack the front wheels for safety. A pair of safety glasses or goggles are worth the expense as well (got mine free).

Last edited by CJJ; 04-12-2009 at 17:31.
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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 21-01-2008, 20:41 Thread Starter
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Forgot to say that the whole exhaust has moved to the offside after a test drive. Re centered it but it moved back again causing both finishers to be slightly right of what they should be (looking from the back) and has melted the black plastic a bit. Anyone know if there is any adjustment apart from bending things?

Also my old exhaust/cat, which is in decent condition, may be going up for grabs if someone in the area needs one. Have to wait for a little while to make sure I am happy with this one first.
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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 21-01-2008, 20:56
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Nice one M8,

Thats a familiar setup, awning and axle stands...... i'de drop a line to Pete @ F/TF Central to include in the how to section.. Good piece!

Shortly after my awning went up 6 houses went up for sale and the values dropped by 10,000...... only kidding


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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 21-01-2008, 20:58 Thread Starter
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With the sound of the new exhaust, the same might happen here
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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 21-01-2008, 22:11
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Well done m8
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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 22-01-2008, 08:07
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Great How-to!
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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 22-01-2008, 09:56
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Top marks for braving the weather to show us all how to do it! Over and beyond the call of duty
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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 22-01-2008, 10:14
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good write up.

where is the picture of the car all finsihed tho?!
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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 22-01-2008, 10:18
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Forgot to say that the whole exhaust has moved to the offside after a test drive. Re centered it but it moved back again causing both finishers to be slightly right of what they should be (looking from the back) and has melted the black plastic a bit. Anyone know if there is any adjustment apart from bending things?
Not helpful I know but I have the same problem with an MGOC exhaust.

When I fitted it I had to re drill the bolt on hanger to get it level as one side was way too low, bit whatever I do I cannot get the exhaust pipes (singles) perpendicular to the exit holes in the rear bumper.

I replaced the downpipe at the same time (Miltek from B&G) and wondered if that had something to do with it? But as you are now having similar problems its now made me wonder if its just bad build quality in general.

I have managed to get my pipes to stay in the same position by giving them a couple of Nm's extra and they have stayed in the same position now for a couple of months, I did not use any paste just the gaskets and SS bolt kit from B&G.
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post #11 of 35 (permalink) Old 22-01-2008, 11:01 Thread Starter
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I had a look under the car today, typical that now I have fitted it it is a nice day.

What I found surprised me. The lateral movement on the backbox was a lot more than I expected. I could grab hold of it and slide it from side to side. Presumably the only things holding it in place are the 2 hangers and the connection to the main downpipe, which has a flexible section.

As the backbox can slide I decided to try and add an end stop. My first idea was to weld a washer on the nearside hanger, but to be honest I couldn't be bothered to take the box off again. I decided to fit a jubilee clip in place and see if that would be sufficient. Bear in mind that whatever you fit, it should only contact the rubber on the car bodywork. If it touches the metal you will get vibrations through the car.

Here is a pic. I will take ithe car for a test drive later.


Last edited by CJJ; 04-12-2009 at 17:32.
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post #12 of 35 (permalink) Old 22-01-2008, 16:23 Thread Starter
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Well, I have been out "enjoying" my new exhaust and the jubilee clip "fix" seems to be working a treat. Might be worth giving it a go happychappy. It might be worth fitting one each side once the ideal position is found.

Here are some more pics that I took in the daylight:





[



And here is one showing the new backbox clamp and bracket for the rear box. I showed the old one in the how to, but this shows it in more detail.


Last edited by CJJ; 04-12-2009 at 17:33.
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post #13 of 35 (permalink) Old 22-01-2008, 16:29
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Well, I have been out "enjoying" my new exhaust and the jubilee clip "fix" seems to be working a treat. Might be worth giving it a go happychappy. It might be worth fitting one each side once the ideal position is found.
The problem with my exhaust is that I cannot get it into the correct position in the first place
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post #14 of 35 (permalink) Old 22-01-2008, 18:20
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lookin good mate.

sure cant miss your registration plate eh
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post #15 of 35 (permalink) Old 22-01-2008, 18:24 Thread Starter
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Subtle. Most people don't realise it is a private plate. The wifes initials and mine. Only the years differ on our cars and one of the bikes.
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post #16 of 35 (permalink) Old 23-01-2008, 07:41
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looking quality mate! The next thing onmy list!
Really wanting the TT exhaust so if anyone knows any for sale, drop me a PM! lol.

You mentioned that you screwed a self tapper into the vacum plug? What was that for sorry?
It's just that I've fitted a decat and just tie wrapped the plug out of the way without sealing it first!??

Would this be causing a problem?

Cheers mate!
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post #17 of 35 (permalink) Old 27-01-2008, 20:12 Thread Starter
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The vacuum has to come from somewhere, and is normally taken from the induction manifold. If the tube is left open then you could end up with a manifold leak which could introduce atmosphere into the manifold which will effect your fuel/air ratio and performance of the car.

Just to add to this post. I have had the MIL come on and general consensus is that it may be down to the post cat O2 sensor. I will monitor it and let you all know, but it may require a MIL eliminator to be fitted to fool the ECU.

And I can't stop blipping the throttle when going through tunnels.

I will now be buying an off the shelf 4-2-1 manifold to complete the system. Probably will go for the Janspeed, like this one http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MGF-MG-TF-JANS...QQcmdZViewItem

I know people were having problems with some manifolds fouling. Was it the MGF centre ones? Who makes them?
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post #18 of 35 (permalink) Old 27-01-2008, 20:17
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I think the problem with the 4-2-1 manifold is that most are designed for the F, and the angle of dangle is a few degrees different on the late F/TF.
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post #19 of 35 (permalink) Old 29-01-2008, 09:51
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another great how to CJJ, now added to my site
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post #20 of 35 (permalink) Old 29-01-2008, 11:00 Thread Starter
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another great how to CJJ, now added to my site
Hey, it's not a vicious rumour, he is back.
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