How to replace clutch and flywheel (picture heavy) - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #1 of 45 (permalink) Old 13-07-2008, 19:14 Thread Starter
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How to replace clutch and flywheel (picture heavy)

After I tortured myself doing it I thought I post it up here for everyone:

the whole thing is based on Dieter’s manual:
http://www.mgfcar.de/gearbox/clutch_replacement_MGF.htm

first of all I left the car on the ground, didn’t want to break my back so I did everything as far as I could without raising it:


First disconnect the battery



then the cover




that needs to be cleared out, luckily I don’t have any standard stuff so it was a bit easier




after the airfilter was removed





those 2 screws at the fuel filter and 3 screws under the filling stud, bit tricky but possible, then remove the whole thing




remove the screw holding the lambda clip and the fuel pipes


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post #2 of 45 (permalink) Old 13-07-2008, 19:15 Thread Starter
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here are several things that can be done, disconnect rearlightconnector, startercable, startercableclip



because I have a clutch support bracket I needed to remove the manifold cover and remove the screw from the other side




remove the speedo plug




remove the 4 slave-cylinder bracket screws, move the cylinder towards the firewall




the tool for proper heroes 200Nm , that helped me a lot…
I loosened up the 4 screws of the gearbox support bridge but don’t remove it yet



here a pic how I reached them



and the tricky screw on the other side




now I need to raise the car, so up it went and 2 stands under it, taking off both wheels and the cover
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post #3 of 45 (permalink) Old 13-07-2008, 19:17 Thread Starter
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for easy access to the starter, use an extension to reach the screws



and gone




now the gearbox oil, you can see both screws, upper “in”, lower “out”




because I didn’t have the proper tool I used this




to avoid the release of the suspension fluid you lift the suspension till it almost lifts off, then put a wedge in between, but first remove the rubber thingy…

do that on both sides




shaft already out, nice view into the differential




raise the gearbox from below, release the vertical screw, remove the bridge and take off the gearbox bracket






now the shiftcables, I only removed the upper cable with bracket completely, the rest can stay, makes it easier

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post #4 of 45 (permalink) Old 13-07-2008, 19:19 Thread Starter
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now the serious stuff…. The gearbox… you will need 2 car jacks and some good books



if you place the jack like this you can pull the gearbox away afterwards




now remove the rest of the screws with the powertool, very easy..



finally, gearbox is seperated




some advice, rotate the gearbox 90 degrees clockwise so the clutchlever is facing upwards, this way you can drop the gearbox and it stays like this

removing the clutch is easy, very much self explaining ones you see it, here the old one



view from bottom to top




that thing will also be replaced with one with nipples 8)






here a comparison of old and new: 3kg EN24 very niice

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post #5 of 45 (permalink) Old 13-07-2008, 19:20 Thread Starter
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engine side without the flywheel, careful it might leak a bit at the lower screw



and fitted already, flywheel with AP racing clutch, perfect !!






Ok from now on I didn’t make any pictures anymore for the sake of the camera, because I got seriously frustrated for the next 2 hours trying to realign the gearbox and fit it back on the engine, what a nightmare.
Problem is that there are 3 align pins on the gearbox side which need to be slotted into the engine, not only do you need to get the gearbox shaft fit into the clutchplate, but also those 3 pins.
I got at the end so frustrated that I took some screws, put them in where I could and just tightened them, fortunately it actually worked and the gearbox slotted into place… yeah high five…

The rest was easy… just put it back together in reverse order……
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post #6 of 45 (permalink) Old 13-07-2008, 19:25
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What an excellent post, well done, I know how frustrating the alignment of the gearbox to the engine can be. Sometimes they will go first go, no problems, other times they will be a right pig.

Well done!
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post #7 of 45 (permalink) Old 13-07-2008, 19:26
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that is bloody fantastic matey, well done . And the best use of MCSE books as well
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post #8 of 45 (permalink) Old 13-07-2008, 19:53
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Great Job, how long did it take you, apart from the 2 hours of aliment, and do you only need to remove the offside shaft? I need to do mine at some point.
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post #9 of 45 (permalink) Old 13-07-2008, 19:55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Dave View Post
What an excellent post, well done, I know how frustrating the alignment of the gearbox to the engine can be. Sometimes they will go first go, no problems, other times they will be a right pig.

Well done!
for the record Doc, are there any major differences to the TF when doing this job ??
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post #10 of 45 (permalink) Old 14-07-2008, 06:57
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Quality posting !!!
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post #11 of 45 (permalink) Old 14-07-2008, 09:39
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Thumbs up

Top guide!
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post #12 of 45 (permalink) Old 14-07-2008, 11:55
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Well done a superb how to that will be used again and again I am sure.

My fave piccie has to be the one with the books.

Rep comin' your way....
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post #13 of 45 (permalink) Old 14-07-2008, 13:34 Thread Starter
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thanks guys... wasn't expecting so much rep coming this way.... very pleased.

hope it will help one or two in the future
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post #14 of 45 (permalink) Old 14-07-2008, 13:53
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Sweet write-up

I know what you mean about lining the gearbox up to get it back in. I ended up re-aligning my clutch when doing it as it wasn't quite square
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post #15 of 45 (permalink) Old 14-10-2008, 20:43 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darenh View Post
Great Job, how long did it take you, apart from the 2 hours of aliment, and do you only need to remove the offside shaft? I need to do mine at some point.
about 10 hours, and yes only offside shaft needs to be taken off
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post #16 of 45 (permalink) Old 14-10-2008, 20:50
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Any noticable improvement with the lighter flywheel?
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post #17 of 45 (permalink) Old 14-10-2008, 21:15
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Nice post.

Could you fill in a few blanks? Removing the drive shaft and lining the clutch up. Only asking cos I'll be doing this soon.
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post #18 of 45 (permalink) Old 14-10-2008, 21:43
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I concur a supered thread. Brilliant well done
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post #19 of 45 (permalink) Old 10-08-2009, 13:55
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Brilliant. I just wish I had seen this before my three day epic journey into our mgf clutch.
I ended up after many and varied attempts to align everything by putting the clutch in fingertight, so as to allow movement of the plate. putting in bolts and pulling in evenly jostled gearbox and it slipped in easy.
Then spanner on crank turn engine and tighten all clutch cover bolts through starter housing gap.
Maybe not approved method but the last resort
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post #20 of 45 (permalink) Old 10-08-2009, 14:01
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I also found the medim size ratchet below half inch is it five sixteenth or three eights fits the drain plug
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