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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 14-12-2008, 16:24 Thread Starter
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How to - Replacing front ball joints

Just did this on mine, if anyone wants to know?

Take the hub off, and then use a decent angle grinder with a small grinding disc and take the tops off the rivet. These are tapered and won't come out without some drilling.

I used these, which make easy work - 15 quid from B&Q. Other bits will be blunt and you won't drill them out:





Starting from small, to medium, drill straight through the rivets. Go slightly off centre so you are removing the outer wall of the rivet. And then use a large one to open the hole!





See the walls of the rivets? Get a strong screwdriver and place it on the top of the rivet and hammer it out. It will budge!





New Quinton Hazel ball joints are available from 20 quid.



Hope this helps. I did the top ball joint, but have to do the other side, and will document it. It's a bugger to get off!!

Last edited by Station; 19-04-2010 at 17:28. Reason: updated picture link locations
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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 14-12-2008, 16:29
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good work . Do the bolts come with the ball joint ??, if not what kind did you use ??
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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 14-12-2008, 16:33 Thread Starter
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Yes, they came with bolts and Nylok nuts and three washers!
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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 14-12-2008, 16:48
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Quite a scary thought that the original ball joints are held on with rivets. The replacement bolts are more like it
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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 14-12-2008, 16:50 Thread Starter
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Believe me, the rivets are there to stay! They're definitely keeping that balljoint in place forever!
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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 14-12-2008, 16:59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGFmad View Post
Quite a scary thought that the original ball joints are held on with rivets. The replacement bolts are more like it
rivets are just as good at holding two pieces of steel together, they are what holds the Eiffel Tower together....albeit slightly larger , they are better in some respects, when the rivet cools, it contracts and pulls the faying surfaces even tighter together.
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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 14-12-2008, 17:04
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Indeed - the rivets are far, far tougher than the bolts.
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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 14-12-2008, 17:15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Station View Post
Believe me, the rivets are there to stay! They're definitely keeping that balljoint in place forever!
Oh yes, I certainly remember that from doing mine
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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 14-12-2008, 19:18
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Couple of interesting pictures . I'll be doing mine come the spring
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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 14-12-2008, 20:38 Thread Starter
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Absolutely worth doing. The 'freeplay' in them is so smooth. The last ones were stuck solid. Got both sides to do and the ARB links (which are both broken). Had the hydragas pumped up, replaced brakes and pipes as well.
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post #11 of 35 (permalink) Old 14-12-2008, 20:48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petevick View Post
rivets are just as good at holding two pieces of steel together, they are what holds the Eiffel Tower together....albeit slightly larger , they are better in some respects, when the rivet cools, it contracts and pulls the faying surfaces even tighter together.
Exactly, the Titanic was also riveted together .......................................Err alright, maybe that wasn't a great example!

David
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post #12 of 35 (permalink) Old 14-12-2008, 21:56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petevick View Post
rivets are just as good at holding two pieces of steel together, they are what holds the Eiffel Tower together....albeit slightly larger , they are better in some respects, when the rivet cools, it contracts and pulls the faying surfaces even tighter together.
I would agree, but the ones on the ball joint look like big pop rivets
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post #13 of 35 (permalink) Old 14-12-2008, 22:01
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Definitely not - pop rivets have a hole where the inner is pulled through to rivet over the end of the shank. These are stamped down in a press, and VERY capable of holding the shear stress imposed on them by normal road driving..

btw, I would be inclined to ensure that I drill the hole through the rivet on centre, if the drill wanders and opens out the hole where the bolts have to go through, you're increasing the possibility of movement occuring, which will affect the camber and castor of the car..

Brian.
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post #14 of 35 (permalink) Old 14-12-2008, 22:49 Thread Starter
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The hole in those rivets are from the drill.
There's no chance of moving the joint off centre by slightly going off centre. The chances of doing that when you might be skimming off a fraction of a millimetre on maybe one, and on the top and bottom plates!
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post #15 of 35 (permalink) Old 18-12-2008, 19:29 Thread Starter
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Here's the upper ball joint. I've put it in my blog and will copy it over. It's all there with pictures!

http://jibijib.blogspot.com/
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post #16 of 35 (permalink) Old 30-01-2009, 09:03
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Hello all.
Doing my righthand side this weekend, I did not get any bolts with my set. Does anyone know what size they are? Dimensions etc.

Thank you.
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post #17 of 35 (permalink) Old 30-01-2009, 09:25 Thread Starter
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M8 fits the hole with Nylok nuts.
TBH, you should've got them with it, but as they are loose in the box, they have probably fallen out.
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post #18 of 35 (permalink) Old 30-01-2009, 15:05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Station View Post
M8 fits the hole with Nylok nuts.
TBH, you should've got them with it, but as they are loose in the box, they have probably fallen out.
Thanks for the quick reply! M8 it is then.
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post #19 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-02-2009, 06:56
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Originally Posted by Aiketgate View Post
Exactly, the Titanic was also riveted together .......................................Err alright, maybe that wasn't a great example!

David

the rivets were fine. It was the iceberg that was the problem lol
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post #20 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-02-2009, 09:12
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Forgot to report back that the job went fine. I did not have these rivets, but ordinary bolts. Perhaps it have been changed before? Anyway, the "locking" bolt was in terrible shape, see picture below. No need to lower the wishbone. Thanks for all your help guys.



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