How to: Steering wheel audio controls. - MG-Rover.org Forums
 2Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rating: Thread Rating: 18 votes, 4.83 average. Display Modes
post #1 of 50 (permalink) Old 27-01-2011, 12:40 Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Murcia. Spain
Car: MG TF 135, Citroen Picasso
Posts: 848
How to: Steering wheel audio controls.

This is a how to and not how to.

After deciding I wanted to control the audio from the steering wheel I did some research and came up with idea number 1. I ordered a button unit from Ebay for a Rover 75 because I liked the look of it. At the same time I ordered the head unit connector and converter unit from Dynamic Sounds, also an Ebay shop trader.

Once they arrived it became obvious that the 75 button system was not going to fit the original wheel. By the way notice that the controller for the head unit is for a Disco, the connections are the same as the 75.

bandk is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 50 (permalink) Old 27-01-2011, 12:45 Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Murcia. Spain
Car: MG TF 135, Citroen Picasso
Posts: 848
Not to be put off I scouted Ebay and came up with buttons for a 25/45. However they were connected to one of these, but hey, the wheel was only 20 inc airbag and postage, so sent for it.

You will of course need two of these wheels, because the trader sent the 1st one without the control buttons. So instead of asking for the 1st one back, he told me to dump it and sent out a replacement. Anyone want a spare wheel?



So as documented elsewhere, I was going to do a complete changeover of the wheel, its only slightly larger than the MG and needs a minor mod on the back of the boss. However the airbag connection was different to the MG plug and then I would have to mess around with the MG logo on the wheel itself. So I did it differently.....
bandk is offline  
post #3 of 50 (permalink) Old 27-01-2011, 12:49 Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Murcia. Spain
Car: MG TF 135, Citroen Picasso
Posts: 848
I modified the original MG wheel by cutting out a slot in the side with a dremel type tool, taking the measurement from the Rover wheel. This was a cut a bit away and trial fit, cut a bit away etc, until I got a nice snug fit.



This pic is with it in place but not attached. I wanted to drill and tap the metal base of the wheel, however unlike the Rover, the bottom of the MG wheel is smaller and no metal to drill into. So I put a smear of Araldite epoxy onto the base plate of the controller and then used self tapping screws into the rubber base.

bandk is offline  
 
post #4 of 50 (permalink) Old 27-01-2011, 12:53 Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Murcia. Spain
Car: MG TF 135, Citroen Picasso
Posts: 848
So that was the hard mounting done. really easy to be honest. Now comes the complicated bits, the wiring. I had a look at the multiplug, only 2 out of the 6 terminals were in use, for the horn. These would be terminals 1 and 3. So not having a spare terminal anywhere, I flattened slightly the end of the two wires from the buttons, coated with a thin layer of solder and then pushed them into the multiplug, using pins 5 and 6..

bandk is offline  
post #5 of 50 (permalink) Old 27-01-2011, 12:57 Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Murcia. Spain
Car: MG TF 135, Citroen Picasso
Posts: 848
So this was the inside of the steering wheel boss comleted, it only needed the airbag replacing later on. I then moved to the back of the connecter and located the plug there, the white one to the right of the yellow on which is for the airbag...



Pulling it clear, it was easy to see that the two attached wires went to pins 1 and 3, indicating the horn wires. So my two wires which I had run along the steering column and up to the back of the head unit were once again coated with solder and pushed into the two terminals at pins 5 and 6.



I'll jump forward a little here because it is important ....
bandk is offline  
post #6 of 50 (permalink) Old 27-01-2011, 13:04 Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Murcia. Spain
Car: MG TF 135, Citroen Picasso
Posts: 848
I reconnected the battery because unlike the 75 buttons which are colour coded, the 25/45 buttons are not, they are both black. So having made the connections I wanted to make sure the buttons worked properly.

Of course this is where things went slightly wrong, The volume button moved the volume down but not up, the mode selector increase the volume and nothing else.

Remember at the beginning where I had bought the autoleads connector to go with the 75 buttons? It doesn't work with 25/45 buttons! I confirmed this with by jury rigging the 75 buttons and they worked no problem, up/down volume, cd select, track select everything. So back to the pics to finish off the fitting, I'll come back this bit later.
bandk is offline  
post #7 of 50 (permalink) Old 27-01-2011, 13:11 Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Murcia. Spain
Car: MG TF 135, Citroen Picasso
Posts: 848
Disconnecting the battery once more I finished off the wiring. The Autoleads connector simply plugs into the wiring harness and into the head unit.

To follow my example you will need a lead for your head unit, mine is Kenwood, but they are available for many units. When ordering get the one for the Rover 25/45 audio controls. I have since had to spend another 20 to correct my original not mistake but choice of buttons.

Following the wiring diagram below will show you which terminals to connect your two jump wires from the steering wheel to...



I had purchased a couple of terminals to fit the ISO connector again from your friendly online auction house. Pushing them into the connector block at the correct location made the whole wiring loom look as though it is original specification.
bandk is offline  
post #8 of 50 (permalink) Old 27-01-2011, 13:14 Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Murcia. Spain
Car: MG TF 135, Citroen Picasso
Posts: 848
So last pic for now, the completed MG wheel with audio controls now all working correctly.

I want to go on from this and also add the cruise control buttons to the other side, but they are the proverbial rocking horse manure to locate. I have seen them brand new at a trader for 90. But I'll hang fire for now until I can find some cheaper on Ebay..

bandk is offline  
post #9 of 50 (permalink) Old 27-01-2011, 13:36
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Halesowen
Car: MG TF
Posts: 219
wowowowowow! so what was your total costing for the audio buttons and gear?
mrgarbay is offline  
post #10 of 50 (permalink) Old 27-01-2011, 13:40
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sutton, Surrey
Car: MG TF 160 - Pearl Black
Posts: 4,443
Blog Entries: 8
Send a message via MSN to Kameleon
Hell yeah, I was hoping someone would do this or say it wasn't possible - I have a set of audio controls and a cruise control paddle to fit at some point (not that I have installed the cruise control either mind you!)

Sterling effort mate, although it involves cutting I would rather do that than have a bigger wheel. Can you see any of the scruffy cut edges from looking up at the controls?
Kameleon is offline  
post #11 of 50 (permalink) Old 27-01-2011, 14:10 Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Murcia. Spain
Car: MG TF 135, Citroen Picasso
Posts: 848
Head unit connector is about 20, the buttons were a tenner. Oddments of connectors and cable maybe a quid or so.

Once the button is in place Kameleon you cannot see any of the cuts on the outside. It fits snugly up against the wheel and under the button has a plastic shroud that pulls in close underneath. You should be able to see how good a fit in the last pic. I'll be back in 10 minutes with a side on shot of the wheel so you can see it better.
bandk is offline  
post #12 of 50 (permalink) Old 27-01-2011, 14:14
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Helensburgh, Scotland
Car: MX5 NC Icon Winning Blue, Rover 25 IXL BRG
Posts: 6,760
Looks like a very good job from what I can see, very OEM, well done.

Now get some pedal covers
jrproudfoot is offline  
post #13 of 50 (permalink) Old 27-01-2011, 14:25 Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Murcia. Spain
Car: MG TF 135, Citroen Picasso
Posts: 848
Here are two pics I've just done. above and below to show how it looks. You'll have to excuse the dust and dirt. I spent 3 hours outside doing this and the temp is below freezing here. I didn't want to spend time cleaning inside as well !





As JR says, it looks like an oem fitting once in place.

Couple things I should add, getting the airbag off is a ***** with the torx bolts, when I refitted it I replaced them with hex head, its a lot easier to get the hex key in then a torx driver. Also regarding the airbag, as has been said before, do not attempt to remove without disconnecting the battery. I did this and also went for a coffee to make sure the circuitry was dead, don't want the airbag going off accidentally.. And the coupler on the steering column, try not to knock it too far out of position when working around it. I removed the wheel initially, but there really is no need to do so if you follow what I have said. The hole for the controller can be easily cut with it in situ, albeit you will have bits of rubber and dust to clean up afterwards.
bandk is offline  
post #14 of 50 (permalink) Old 27-01-2011, 14:54
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sutton, Surrey
Car: MG TF 160 - Pearl Black
Posts: 4,443
Blog Entries: 8
Send a message via MSN to Kameleon
Bah - Seems I have no excuse not to fit mine now, cheers for the how to!
Kameleon is offline  
post #15 of 50 (permalink) Old 27-01-2011, 16:42
Supporter
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Mirfield,West Yorks
Car: MG TF135 XPG, Ford Kuga
Posts: 1,679
Great job. Well done! I want one now!!
Martin20 is offline  
post #16 of 50 (permalink) Old 01-02-2011, 20:26
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Cheshire
Car: Jaguar F-Type Coupe, Range Rover Evoque, 1967 MG 1100 & 1966 MGB GT
Posts: 791
Dragging up an old thread here, sorry! Just wanted to add a few comments I noted tonight that are additional to the excellent how-to by bandk.

I bought a Rover 45 steering wheel which was from a W regy, but bandk helped me identify the button age by the sticker I found on it, which gives the date of manufacture. The buttons I bought were the two button type but later Rovers got a three button unit which looks similar but with a mode button on the centre part.

The TF LE 500 steering is near enough identical to the earlier cars and in fact has PR3 embossed on the casting. However, digging around under the rubber I found two lug holes which were tapped already and made a convenient locating point for the base plate.

The wire and metal insert can be pushed out of the multi-plug with a small screwdriver and then inserted into your multiplug on your TF wheel.

Because of the age of my buttons I am having to get the adaptor kit coded PC99-X04 but if you get the later (post 2000 or 2002 in some cases) three button unit you will probably need PC99-X39. As the LE 500 has the Pioneer h/unit (DEH-6900iB) I need to get a PC99-PIO patch lead to plug into the back of the unit. Anglian Car Audio have been very helpful on Ebay in identifying what I need as has bandk, many thanks.

I will find out later this week if it works when I get my car back from the dealer where it is currently being resprayed, having the RPsensors done and the dash has been stripped for welding of the bodywork behind so it was a good opportunity to grab the steering wheel overnight.

Martin 75 is offline  
post #17 of 50 (permalink) Old 01-02-2011, 20:30
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Wellingborough
Car: TF148
Posts: 7,831
Blog Entries: 4
Cracking job....almost CJJ standard of a 'how to' guide ....well deserved rep for your efforts
Lee121 is offline  
post #18 of 50 (permalink) Old 19-02-2011, 13:32
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Cheshire
Car: Jaguar F-Type Coupe, Range Rover Evoque, 1967 MG 1100 & 1966 MGB GT
Posts: 791
I have my LE back and finally ordered the leads. I have the patch lead (PC99-PIO) to go to the Pioneer head unit with the 3.5mm jack on the end. I have the adaptor leads, in this case PC99-X04 for earlier two botton Rovers with the ISO blocks and adaptor box.

But what connects to what? There are no instructions as such that are clear. I presume I need to take two wires down to the back of teh dash and connect these into the adpator but do I need to use the ISO plugs if I have the 3.5mm plug?

Apologies for being a thicko, but wondering if I ought to leave this to an audio specialist to connect in for me?
Martin 75 is offline  
post #19 of 50 (permalink) Old 19-02-2011, 14:22 Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Murcia. Spain
Car: MG TF 135, Citroen Picasso
Posts: 848
Check the diagram I included up top Martyn. The two wires from the column, yes you do need to add these, go to the ISO multiplug at the back of the head unit. Again check the diagram up top to see which terminals you need to connect to. The 3.5mm plug you mention, is it a jack type plug or the din type plug (don't know with a pioneer unit)

Whichever type it is, it connects to the autolead unit and then plugs into the head unit. On Kenwood units this is sometimes a blue lead, in which case you use the blue lead connector in the kit.
bandk is offline  
post #20 of 50 (permalink) Old 19-02-2011, 15:01
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Cheshire
Car: Jaguar F-Type Coupe, Range Rover Evoque, 1967 MG 1100 & 1966 MGB GT
Posts: 791
Thanks, I will take a look again at the diagram. The patch lead didn't come with any instructions, and there was no diagram with the adaptor. The patch lead has a headphone type jack with three segments otherwise the adaptor box looks the same as yours, but is an X04.
Martin 75 is offline  
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the MG-Rover.org Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Linear Mode Linear Mode
Rate This Thread:



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Rover 75 / MG ZT/T A problem with steering wheel audio controls role00 In-Car Audio, Entertainment, Sat Nav etc... 1 03-01-2011 16:11
steering wheel audio controls p500daf MG ZT / Rover 75 (Sponsored by Rimmer Bros) 9 19-05-2010 13:33
Rover 200 steering wheel audio controls wendler In-Car Audio, Entertainment, Sat Nav etc... 5 22-09-2009 21:29
steering wheel controls for audio (bubble) macka_smacka Wanted 3 28-02-2007 08:42
Steering Wheel Audio Controls jonnyboy1975 In-Car Audio, Entertainment, Sat Nav etc... 0 10-02-2004 13:50

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome