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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 18-10-2005, 12:39 Thread Starter
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MGF Heater Blower not working

Can anyone suggest the next move? The heater fan isn't working on any position. I've checked the resistor pack any it appears to be in good condition. There is power both sides of the fuse. There isn't any power reaching the switch. I was going to start tracing the wires but without a wiring diagram this is not easy. Haynes apparently don't do a manual so getting hold of the wiring diagram means paying bug bucks to Rover. Any help would be appreciated.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 18-10-2005, 13:25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnno
Can anyone suggest the next move? The heater fan isn't working on any position. I've checked the resistor pack any it appears to be in good condition. There is power both sides of the fuse. There isn't any power reaching the switch. I was going to start tracing the wires but without a wiring diagram this is not easy. Haynes apparently don't do a manual so getting hold of the wiring diagram means paying bug bucks to Rover. Any help would be appreciated.
Regards
Johnno
Johnno

I am looking at the Heater Blower Circuit Diagram for MGF up to 2001 MY. It's ready to email as a jpg.
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File Type: jpg heater blower (Medium).JPG (43.2 KB, 106 views)

Last edited by Sprinter; 18-10-2005 at 13:56.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 18-10-2005, 13:59
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my heater blower works however only on setting 3 and 4, nothing on 1 and 2. sorry for jumping on the band wagon.

Also the heater is only producing hot air, it gets like a sauna in there.... i dont think its the thermostat and surely that would only produce cold air wouldnt it?
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 18-10-2005, 14:17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrickyIreland
my heater blower works however only on setting 3 and 4, nothing on 1 and 2. sorry for jumping on the band wagon.

Also the heater is only producing hot air, it gets like a sauna in there.... i dont think its the thermostat and surely that would only produce cold air wouldnt it?
Sounds like you have a blown resistor pack: New MGF owner - some questions.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 18-10-2005, 14:39
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A blown resistor pack would explain the fact that the blower is not working on 1 & 2 (these are the first to go as they have the thinnest resistor wire), I am not sure about the fact that you say it only chucks out hot air? That does not sound good if you ask me! A new resistor pack will set you back about 25 direct from rover and there is no point in getting a second hand one as they will probably be blown too! Bit of a naff design as the wires get very hot and are cooled by the air flowing down from the vents, so if you are stuck in traffic with the blower on they get really hot and knacker out quick! I have not replaced mine yet as mine only works on 3 & 4 but I have a full range of temps!
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 18-10-2005, 14:59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benfinlayson
I am not sure about the fact that you say it only chucks out hot air? That does not sound good if you ask me!
My heart is pumping now... whatever could it be?
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 18-10-2005, 15:10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrickyIreland
my heater blower works however only on setting 3 and 4, nothing on 1 and 2.
Sounds just like a duff resistor pack.


Quote:
Originally Posted by TrickyIreland
Also the heater is only producing hot air, it gets like a sauna in there.... i dont think its the thermostat and surely that would only produce cold air wouldnt it?
The heater is very simple and is not controlled by a thermostat, just a good old fashioned on/off tap. It is not unknown for the cable that opeates the on/off tap to slip or stretch reducing the range of movement. Simple enough to check and fix.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 18-10-2005, 15:22
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ive had a look on http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/ however cant seem to find the section on changing the resister pack.

I was told the hot air could be as john mentioned a break in the connection for turning the cold air on, i took the knob off and had a look to make sure the mechanism is working and that seems fine.

Looking at your diagram john im not sure what i should be checking to be honest and how to get to it.

Am i right saying it wont be just as simple as having the thermostat changed?
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 18-10-2005, 15:37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrickyIreland
ive had a look on http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/ however cant seem to find the section on changing the resister pack.

I was told the hot air could be as john mentioned a break in the connection for turning the cold air on, i took the knob off and had a look to make sure the mechanism is working and that seems fine.

Looking at your diagram john im not sure what i should be checking to be honest and how to get to it.

Am i right saying it wont be just as simple as having the thermostat changed?
Resister pack!.

Remove glovebox,... behind centre fasia at the back of the footwell, you will see heater box, with flexi-pipes going to your vents.
At the top of the heater box is the resister pack, its about the size of a matchbox, remove the multi-plug wiring connection, undo 2 screws, and remove the pack!.

Heater control!.

Remove your radio, and you might be able to see if the heater cable is operating the tap, or has come away as JP says!!.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 18-10-2005, 15:40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrickyIreland
ive had a look on http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/ however cant seem to find the section on changing the resister pack.

I was told the hot air could be as john mentioned a break in the connection for turning the cold air on, i took the knob off and had a look to make sure the mechanism is working and that seems fine.

Looking at your diagram john im not sure what i should be checking to be honest and how to get to it.

Am i right saying it wont be just as simple as having the thermostat changed?
Have you seen where the thermostat is and how you get to it? Luckily it's NOTHING to do with the thermostat. It's a cable, bit like a bicycle brake cable, an outer and an inner. Both should be clamped, either can move.

On the pic, see #8 Control cable - temperature.
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 18-10-2005, 18:37
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Heater won't blow cold from a previous thread :-
Usually what happens is that the pin on the lever from the cable slips out of the quadrant that opens and closes the water valve, you can get it back in but invariably comes out again unless you can alter the position the pin sits in the quadrant, or replace the valve. You can gain access to the valve to do this after removing the right hand side panel from the centre console ( where the footwell lamp is ). Paul
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 18-10-2005, 18:47
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Thanks for the clarification Paul; I can spot the chance of a slipped cable but I've never had to go up behind the dash to see just how it clips in.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 19-10-2005, 08:22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnno
Can anyone suggest the next move? The heater fan isn't working on any position. I've checked the resistor pack any it appears to be in good condition. There is power both sides of the fuse. There isn't any power reaching the switch. I was going to start tracing the wires but without a wiring diagram this is not easy. Haynes apparently don't do a manual so getting hold of the wiring diagram means paying bug bucks to Rover. Any help would be appreciated.
Regards
Johnno
Basically the resistor pack, and the blower rotary switch, are both in the 'earth' side of the blower motor.
That's why you had power both sides of the fuse, but not at the switch.

In the resistor pack ,there are three resistors wired in series.
Position1, switches all THREE resistors in series with the motor to give the slowest speed .
Position 2 switches TWO resistors in series with the motor to give a slightly higher speed.
Position 3 switches ONE resistor in series with the motor to give a slightly higher speed again.
Position 4 bypasses the resistor pack completely, to take the -ve side of the motor to earth to give the highest speed.

If you've checked the three resistors in the pack and none are open circuit,
and the blower wont work in ANY position. Then it points to either a faulty rotary switch, or a faulty blower motor.

The blower motor can be checked by tying the -ve side to earth then switching on the ignition.

HTH ( even If a little long winded!!).
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 15-02-2007, 13:40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGF/TF Mender View Post
Heater won't blow cold from a previous thread :-
Usually what happens is that the pin on the lever from the cable slips out of the quadrant that opens and closes the water valve, you can get it back in but invariably comes out again unless you can alter the position the pin sits in the quadrant, or replace the valve. You can gain access to the valve to do this after removing the right hand side panel from the centre console ( where the footwell lamp is ). Paul
#

Hi Paul

Where should the pin go? My TF is blowing hot only as well but it looks like the valve has been installed upside down (maybe). Should the moulded end-stop be on the RHS of the car, nearest the driver's footwell? If so, how do I get the damned thing back in the quadrant?

Tra
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 15-02-2007, 14:37
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I Did mine last week

My heater has never worked on position 1 & 2 from new, i knew what problem was but never got around to doing anything about it, today i sorted it, problem was one of the resistor wires had broken see photo's below, i unsoldered all wire coil resistors and replaced them with better type ones, i aquired them off a Rover-Org site member, all 3 and postage for 2.50 now fitted and working great

My Handywork and yep i burnt my finger with soldering iron ha ha

Click for bigger pics

See broken resistor wire


Resistor values


Where new resistors go


Finished job


Finished job 2



If you have similar problem and want to know how to fix click "See Here" below .
The person to get hold of for some resistors if you can't source any is Paul and his user name on Rover-Org is technozan, just pm him like i did,reisitors came in 3 days, Dave


See Here
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 15-02-2007, 17:35
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Great Dave

I've just removed the pack which is a job to do.
Bought some resistors and will do it like you.

Can't wait for the refitment, maybe that'll last 2 - 3 hours

Edit: and BANG.......... bought the wrong wattage........
hello echo *slapping myself and going into the corner*

Last edited by Herbie; 15-02-2007 at 19:48.
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 15-02-2007, 19:22
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ha ha yep they are a little bugger to get at, but it 's great to have pos 1 & 2 working again as sometimes 3&4 just to much.glad my work pics of some help.
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