MGF/MGTF Speaker Upgrade - Forums
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 15-02-2017, 21:03 Thread Starter
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Cambridge
Posts: 1,320
MGF/MGTF Speaker Upgrade

Hi all,

after so much time I've taken from the community, I think it is time to give a fraction back.
What follow is not a complete How-to, but more an extension to some very good existing guides out there.

[I'll try to provied pictures shortly]

Hope will be useful


1. You need an MGF/TF with T-Bar (rear) spearks along discreet doors tweeters.
a. Not sure if any of the following is applicable to single door speakers.

2. Willing to do job yourself

What you need to buy

Follow a list of items I've bought and was a perfect fit:

1. Main door speaker
a. Cable adapater
NOTE: Don't biu cowl adaptors (I've done it), because probably they will not fit. Is better to re-use the original.

2. Door Tweeter
a. Cable adapter
b. Relaying on the original tweeters, with much better speakers, means having a very muddy and unclear sound, since the OEM can't match the uber-powerful new borthers

3. T-Bar (rear) speekers

4. Fire rated foam

5. J-Weld
6. Door clips

General Infos
* Door Cable adpaters: the doors speaker and tweeters have a special cable connectors. If you don't want to cut the original cable and juction it with ones coming with the speakers, the listed adaptors are a 0-hassle connection, even for future upgrades.
The good thing is they are quite water-tight and, since the leaking attitude of our cars, is a good thing.

* T-Bar speakers have no speacial adapter, they come with discreet +/- connector. No issue.

* Removing the door cards has proven disruptive for the bottom clips: they remained ... clipped to the metal frame.
With J-Weld I've litterally welded clips holder back to the door card, with much stiffer retention.
I've use a bit of the foam to keep the new clip in place.
This prooved quite good in the end: the doors are so tight on the metal frame that they don't vibrate even with very high volume.

1. CJJ Speaker replacement How-To
a. If door clips holder detach, read above
b. Use speaker cable adapter... and done!
c. Before putting the speakers on the door frame:
** For each speaker cut two strings of adhesive foam
** Attach first strip to the back of the cowl, that will press against the door frame
** Attach the second to the front of the cowl, that will got in contact with the door card
** This will hugely reduce vibration and will stiffen the door card aginst the speark (also eliminating chafing noise while driving)
d. Unscrew tweeter
c. Use tweeter cable adapter and... done!
e. Screw new tweeter in place!
d Connect cables!

2. T-Bar removal
a. removed the T-Bar unscrew the speakers from the boxes
b. Connect cables (no adpter needed)
c. Screw back speakers


Last edited by DeathFromAbove; 15-02-2017 at 21:12.
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 15-02-2017, 22:55
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Ashington, Northumberland
Car: MGTF 160, TF LE500, Nissan Leaf, KTM 990, Kangoo Van, Freelander 2.
Posts: 33,147
Mmmm. Speakers.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 15-02-2017, 22:59
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Ashington, Northumberland
Car: MGTF 160, TF LE500, Nissan Leaf, KTM 990, Kangoo Van, Freelander 2.
Posts: 33,147
A discreet sub is good too. Nothing too big though.

Alpine Sub woofer fitting - How to
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 16-02-2017, 19:50
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Car: 25X, 25 1.6, 25 2.0D Rep:■■■■■■■■■■
Posts: 35,336
Yeah them Alpine under seat subs are awesome, I have one for sale
if anyone is after one.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 17-02-2017, 00:48
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Ashington, Northumberland
Car: MGTF 160, TF LE500, Nissan Leaf, KTM 990, Kangoo Van, Freelander 2.
Posts: 33,147
That's handy.
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