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post #21 of 63 (permalink) Old 18-04-2016, 20:29 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stargatemunky View Post
200bhp should work stock no problems at all.

They go as high as around 220bhp on all stock.

I might have to try that touch-screen idea though. Maybe a cheapo tablet with Torque pro installed or something or just convert one of the LED HUD units.

I find them invaluable for diagnosing coolant leaks etc.

I'm going for around 260+ twin charged 4wd ZS so i'm keen to see what others have done and how they've solved certain problems.

Need to get a Mk2 ZS V6 that I can transplant my current engine into and make use of all the better gubbins.

You may ask how the hell I intend to make it 4wd.....well... at this stage it's still on the drawing board, but I have all the theory like gearing/LSD ratios solved.... just gotta figure out how to cram a haldex into the rear end and redo the gas tank.
OMG and I thought my job was going to be big lol, 4WD will be awesome, I toyed with the tablet idea but decided against it as I want this system to
monitor all of the charge cooler as well as the standard temperatures. ZS's are cool cars, they remind me of the Civic VTI-S I once had.

You should start a thread when you begin your project so we can all keep and eye on it.
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post #22 of 63 (permalink) Old 18-04-2016, 21:27
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I will be doing the 4wd thing before any charging as I need to make sure the car drives as it should.

Plus it's going to be expensive to try everything at once.

As most of the Freelander stuff is all PG1 as well it makes transferring it a lot easier.
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post #23 of 63 (permalink) Old 21-04-2016, 20:35
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I am using VF turbo from Subaru as well.
Why did you buy an N/A exhaust for your turbo project???
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post #24 of 63 (permalink) Old 26-04-2016, 18:29 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KostasRWD View Post
I am using VF turbo from Subaru as well.
Why did you buy an N/A exhaust for your turbo project???
Because I knew I would cut it up for parts, it was basically just the flange I was after and it was super cheap.
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post #25 of 63 (permalink) Old 26-04-2016, 19:45 Thread Starter
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Another quick update, worked on the TF most of the weekend and managed to get quite far along with it.

I fitted new underfloor stainless steel pipes, I have wrapped them in exhaust wrap to try and stop the heat either coming in to the car or worse heating the Charge Cooler Pipes.



Fitted to the car (blue pipes are for the charge cooler)


I asked the company who made them for me to weld extra tabs on to keep the charge cooler pipes in place.

Also gave the underfloor pan a quick refresh with some metal paint.
BEFORE:



JUST AFTER (Still Wet):


I have started working out where to place the charge cooler itself.
(Charge cooler to the left of the throttle body in this pic)


And then took drastic measures with the oil filter housing
(More on that soon)




I finished mocking up my manifold


And its far too close to the bulk housing, needs a bit of rejigging
I think.


And that's about it, hope you guys are enjoying the build, I certainly am..

More updates soon...
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post #26 of 63 (permalink) Old 12-05-2016, 10:19 Thread Starter
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Sorry its been a little while since I posted last, I have been cracking on with the MG in my spare time.

I have fitted the remote oil filter, not much room in the engine bay so I have fitted it behind where the header tank is, all the pipes and fittings are on order and should be here soon.



Will post more pics once they get here.

With a rough location of all the new parts including turbo charge cooler known it was time to remove the sub frame, a big job but there are some excellent guides to do it.





Just looks wrong lol



The sub frame was then totally stripped down ready for blasting.


With the subframe off for blasting it was time to get the head off this and start doing the gaskets.



Head off



Ohh S#!t the wet liners have moved!!! (Don't even ask how!)


After looking on the net for a few hours about the liners, I came across a how to guide to reseal the liners without taking them totally out, its quite simple really (Usual disclaimer here I am not responsible if you follow this guide and break you engine etc.. etc..), just remove the oil ladder turn the engine over until the first piston is near the top, this should allow you to knock the liner up from the bottom (i used a piece of nylon) until you can see the seat.


After thoroughly cleaning the seat, I used a syringe to apply a new bead of sealant all the way around the liner.




I then tapped the piston back into its seat, then repeated with the next 3 and jobs done.

I honestly have no idea if it will work but I really don't fancy taking the whole bottom end to pieces.

As I type this I haven't yet done the head gasket, but it should be getting done in the next few days, I am just waiting for the Loctite sealant to come for the up-rated oil ladder.

Good news though my bits are back from the blasters and I am very happy with the result.



I have cleaned and started priming them with Zinc 182 Primer.



More to come soon...
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Last edited by MGTF-T; 12-05-2016 at 10:32.
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post #27 of 63 (permalink) Old 12-05-2016, 11:47
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Enjoying this quite a lot and its certainly moving along at some speed.
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post #28 of 63 (permalink) Old 12-05-2016, 12:31
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Regarding the fuel tank you can always "bucket and brush" the tank so it has a Carbon sheet layer of it, that will help with insulation.

An off the shelf carbon sheet will help reflect heat too, especially when coated on the rear side with a heat reflective material.
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post #29 of 63 (permalink) Old 12-05-2016, 18:47 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay13 PNTHR View Post
Regarding the fuel tank you can always "bucket and brush" the tank so it has a Carbon sheet layer of it, that will help with insulation.

An off the shelf carbon sheet will help reflect heat too, especially when coated on the rear side with a heat reflective material.
That's a tremendous idea, I had not thought of it.

Up-rated oil ladder fitted tonight.





Oil Ladder Installed.

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post #30 of 63 (permalink) Old 12-05-2016, 20:09
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Are you fitting new bearing shells for the conrods/crank? Seems a shame not to do that when everything is so accessible at the moment.

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post #31 of 63 (permalink) Old 12-05-2016, 20:18
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Take a look at your throttle body butterfly shaft seals - under pressure they may blow out. They seal with a vacuum. You can stake them in, but ideally just use the TB from the turbo engine you got.
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post #32 of 63 (permalink) Old 13-05-2016, 09:13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGTF-T View Post
That's a tremendous idea, I had not thought of it.
I only do those, except when I dont .
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post #33 of 63 (permalink) Old 13-05-2016, 09:22 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IanMc View Post
Are you fitting new bearing shells for the conrods/crank? Seems a shame not to do that when everything is so accessible at the moment.
I am not fitting new shells at the moment, because I intend to build a whole
forged bottom end to push the power up to nearer 280 (gearbox permitting)
within the next year or so, the engines only done 60,000 so it should (fingers crossed)
be ok for a little while longer yet.

We shall see...
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post #34 of 63 (permalink) Old 13-05-2016, 09:26 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackoctagon View Post
Take a look at your throttle body butterfly shaft seals - under pressure they may blow out. They seal with a vacuum. You can stake them in, but ideally just use the TB from the turbo engine you got.
I am planing to use the TB off the turbo engine, as its forced induction it
should not make much difference being a little smaller, or start from
scratch and and make a drive by wire system.

steve
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post #35 of 63 (permalink) Old 13-05-2016, 09:35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGTF-T View Post
I am planing to use the TB off the turbo engine, as its forced induction it
should not make much difference being a little smaller, or start from
scratch and and make a drive by wire system.

steve
DIY drive by wire. That would be a first for a TF/F I think.

Hall's effect sensor?

Many people seem to think that the larger 52mm throttle is a be all and end all. Over the years I fitted nearly all my F's and TF's (all 7 of them) with a 52mm TB if they needed it.

Then one day I had a very long conversation with a colleague of mine while I was doing some work at Lotus. He explained that in reality the large TB only creates the illusion of better throttle response. In effect you are simply gaining more rev's for the same throttle position due to the TB's increased size. His argument was that a small body offered tighter control, specifically at low revs. I later drove his old MK1 Elise with one fitted and then the other. I got what he meant.

Blackotagon has done a fair bit of analysis on this subject so I wont steal his thunder, but in a nutshell Id wager there will be little to no effect.

It might be worth doing some port matching on the body and the inlet manifold though? I re-aligned and matched a TB on a 1.8T ZT once, had about 2mm of misalignment.
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post #36 of 63 (permalink) Old 13-05-2016, 15:15
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I only saw a +1 bhp gain on fitting a 52mm over a 48mm throttle body. The improvement in performance is actually exactly as you say: the bigger TB butterfly valve and throttle diameter means that for any opening angle there is more air flow - giving the illusion of greater power.

The 48mm is not the main point of performance resiutrction.

Steve, nice turbo build. Need to get mine sorted soon!
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post #37 of 63 (permalink) Old 13-05-2016, 18:41 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Bell View Post
I only saw a +1 bhp gain on fitting a 52mm over a 48mm throttle body. The improvement in performance is actually exactly as you say: the bigger TB butterfly valve and throttle diameter means that for any opening angle there is more air flow - giving the illusion of greater power.

The 48mm is not the main point of performance resiutrction.

Steve, nice turbo build. Need to get mine sorted soon!
Cheers m8, hopefully my build should help other people in the F/TF community if they are thinking about turbocharging.

GEEK ALERT: Done a little few bits tonight on the Bespoke monitoring system, got the boot time to 20 seconds and created a data viewer.


Made up some Temperature sensors for various parts of the Chargecooler / Coolant / Turbo System.


oh and my up-rated clutch release arm came today. (Stock Photo)
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post #38 of 63 (permalink) Old 09-07-2016, 00:33 Thread Starter
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Sorry not been on here in a little while, but I have been really busy with work, and fitting a new kitchen, anyway back to the important stuff, I have been steadily working on the TF and have even had her fired over!!!,
Whilst the engine was out I took the opportunity to clean the engine bay thoroughly, then give it
a coat of under seal, I also started fitting the reflecta gold heat shielding to the back of the bulk head.



The sump plates are now tac welded in and a boss for the relocated oil temperature sensor has been welded in place (Big thanks to John Burn for this).





Next I took the injectors out of the 1.8T manifold and rebuilt them into the 160 alloy one.




The oil filter had to be relocated again!


And the Turbo Core had to be rotated 180 degrees.
A test fit of my new Thermal Zero turbo blanket.


At last time for the engine to go back in, the car has had no engine at this point for a month.
up she goes



Its a tight squeeze.

in at last.




I decided to up rate the cooling system to a PRT one, this was a bit of a chew (only because of the turbo water lines).




Turbo Oil feed in


This is an example of just how little room there is to get the pipes in (this is just a trial fit at the moment)


Oil cooler hooked plumbed in with AN8 lines.


New oil filter lines on custom oil plate (this might need changing)


The view of the turbo from underneath (Just test fitting at the moment).


Wideband Fitted.


Aftermarket Boost gauge and oil Pressure fitted (what do you guys think?).


I have had the car started but have only ran it for 2 seconds at a time, mainly because It has no exhaust so the wideband at the moment does not function and my gut reaction is that the engine is running lean.

This weekend's task is to make up a custom exhaust so I can run the car properly.

And just for a bit of fun, I photoshoped a TF with a ZS-180 kit on it, what do you recon?


More coming soon...
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post #39 of 63 (permalink) Old 17-07-2016, 09:18 Thread Starter
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Smile Small Update

Small update:

Have been working on getting the screen installed in the dashboard, after quite of hard work I decided that the screen took too much away from the character of our wonderful cars, so instead I am keeping my clocks and am now working on installing a smaller more discrete screen, and an phone app to display historical and more graphical data.

Anyway Enough jibba jabba on to the photos.

First of all a quick picture of what the clocks that I made looked like in the car, to me they make the car look like a track day car, it was probably pretty obvious that they were going to have that effect but I got caught up in the moment.



So using the same software I developed this is mk2

Cowl Removed.



LCD is a 16x4.



After a bit of filing down and dremeling.





The LCD connected and on.



I have added a LCD backlight controller as well so when the lights are on at night the screen dulls down, on alert the LCD flashes and a buzzer sounds, I am going to add more sensors to it including coolant level but for now I only have 4.

Exhaust almost complete now it off getting seam welded.

Can't wait to drive the car again it seems like an age since I took it out for a spin.
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post #40 of 63 (permalink) Old 18-07-2016, 07:56
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Just enjoyed half an hour at work with a coffee reading your build thread.

I applaud your effort, I now hope it gets completed and works well so you can enjoy it.

In my opinion the F/TF are quite under-powered and overweight. MG should have offered a turbo option from new.

Good look, waiting for the next installment.
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