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post #41 of 63 (permalink) Old 18-07-2016, 23:06 Thread Starter
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Red face

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr-Tickle View Post
Just enjoyed half an hour at work with a coffee reading your build thread.

I applaud your effort, I now hope it gets completed and works well so you can enjoy it.

In my opinion the F/TF are quite under-powered and overweight. MG should have offered a turbo option from new.

Good look, waiting for the next installment.
Thank you for your kind words, it nice to know people are following the build, I will try and keep it interesting.
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post #42 of 63 (permalink) Old 25-07-2016, 15:12 Thread Starter
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More done on the car this weekend, whilst waiting on parts coming to complete the turbo I refurbed the front lights as they were looking yellow and faded.

It difficult to capture in a photo but this is what they looked like before I started.





With the lenses stripped out, its hard to get them out, the best way would be to put them in the oven to soften the glue but the wifey was not up for that so I had to use a heat gun and be gentle.



I first wet and dried the lenses with 1500 grit, then moved to 2000 and finally 2500.

I had no DA sander so I improvised with a drill and a pad and used car polish to get them back the being clear.

Then I cut a hole in the back of the light surround for the angel eye leds.



A bit rough but no one is going to see it


LED's in place.


I placed the LED ballasts under the lights but within the cluster so that no water can get in them (hopefully )

I have wired them up to the sidelights and have removed the original sidelight bulb but left the holder in case the LED's fail.

the best glue to use to resemble the headlights is the bitumen type that doesn't harden, it was 15 off an auction website


headlights refitted back in car.


Happy with the result, worth the effort IMO.



Oooohhh look what arrived today. Ecu is back from Z&F (Thanks Mark for the quick turn around and excellent service)
and is ready to fit.
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post #43 of 63 (permalink) Old 25-07-2016, 18:41
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This is all just delightful.

I have a sump related question - is it a trapdoor type?
I can't quite tell from the photos.
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post #44 of 63 (permalink) Old 25-07-2016, 19:20 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackoctagon View Post
This is all just delightful.

I have a sump related question - is it a trapdoor type?
I can't quite tell from the photos.
Thank you,

No its not the trapdoor type it is the fixed type, I wont be regularly going to track events so I didn't think it was necessary,
more to stop the engine twisting under high torque.

Cheers
Steve
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post #45 of 63 (permalink) Old 26-07-2016, 19:44
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This is just brilliant, lovin the build, keep it coming!
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post #46 of 63 (permalink) Old 08-10-2016, 00:38 Thread Starter
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Cool

Sorry I have not been on here in a little while, if I could sum up the past few months building the TF Turbo in one word it would be PROBLEMS!!, and lot of them, there is a reason there are not many TF Turbos around.

I will list just some of them
• Faulty PRT unit (Now replaced)
• Oil pipe blew off and covered everything (that was fun to clean up)
• Coolant leaks everywhere
• Exhaust leaks everywhere
• Stripped bolt on rear track rod
• Alternator not charging the battery
• Boost leaks
• Top end of the engine rattle.
• Etc. Etc. Etc

I have been able to overcome allot of the problems above, and continue to do so but it does take allot of time and patience. I do however have a problem that you guys might be able to help with, the car now starts runs and drives perfectly, it boosts nicely and really is really quick, however once the engine has been running for about 20min and the oil is warm I get a rattle from the top end of the engine, it sound like hydraulic tappets but I have replaced all 16 of them with brand new ones. Its does not affect performance but obviously should not happen.

Any Ideas?

Anyway enough moaning let get down to what I have been doing.
I was told that you could use the existing fuel rail, leave the regulator in and just add another regulator in line on the return, but I could not get the fuel pressure to adjust high enough so I removed the old regulator, drilled and tapped the hole and converted the rail to accept AN fittings, this allowed me to increase the pressure to the required level, happy days!

Old fuel rail with FPR.


Modified with 3/8th fittings (used a hydraulic hose line to test it), then I used a 3/8th to AN adapter, and adapted the Fuel filter fittings to AN as well.


Exhaust down mainly made from stainless, I cut and tacked it together then my friend (Thanks John) Tig welded it for me.


I then made a new center section to join this to my existing CAT and TT MK7

The Alternator system needed a tweaked quite a bit. Using a custom belt and relocated the tensioner and support arm, I manged to get the it to fit but
the electrical connector was different, after quite a bit of messing about I came to the conclusion that it must be faulty so bought a used one online for 11
delivered!!!!!, I love how cheap the parts are for these cars, this one fitted and worked straight away

Next up PRT system, replaced my faulty eBay PRT unit with a brand new one, only 25 should of done this in the first place instead of being tight.


I needed to have an oil temperature gauge, I don’t like pillar gauges as there just not my thing or dash pod gauges so to avoid have yet another gauge,
I have Modified a boost gauge to fit into the existing hazard warning switch and painted it in gloss black to match. Happy with the result looks fairly OEM.







I did an epic job of fitting my Air Fuel Gauge, turns out using a high speed drill to cut a circular hole, not such a good idea!!



I have also relocated and replaced the hazard warning switch with a “Savage Hazard Switch” I am happy with this setup and it works really well.



I then had to take my roll bars out in order to remove the center console and fit the new one that I had to buy, this time I used a jigsaw with a metal
bit, and the fit is perfect (Pic coming soon)

I have fitted plazma dials and have on back order the plazma heater surrounds (will post a pic as soon as they get here)


All the piping is now in for the air filter and the engine cover is fitted again. (I will be ducting some air up to this in the future)


New coolant bottle fitted as the old one had seen better days




Washer Water jets up graded to Citron Xara Mist ones (This is well worth doing and is a 5 minute job and they are a direct replacement)


A few nice and shiny stainless bits fitted.




I think that's about it for the minute, there are still lots of little jobs to do but I do have a working driving TF Turbo.

It would be nice to have the mechanics 100% complete this year but I fear the top end of the engine is toast and will need a rebuild. (Well if it had worked first time I wouldn’t of learned half as much)

Next year I will be focusing on the outside of the car and getting the styling how I like it.
I will keep you guys updated as I progress.

Last edited by MGTF-T; 08-10-2016 at 00:44.
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post #47 of 63 (permalink) Old 07-03-2017, 09:50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGTF-T View Post
...Well the only slight issue is that I will have to loose the original fog lights as there just is not enough room for them behind the bumper, I have looked at a few options, eBay sell so quite big fog lights that are LED and thin, I have mocked them up on a picture of a rather gorgeous looking MG-TF that I unashamedly stole or my other Idea was to make them ducts to the radiator what do you think?, too much?

great thread, very interesting to read and some fantastic skills you have there

the pic you pinched was of my first TF and it was taken just down the road from you at Hexham
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post #48 of 63 (permalink) Old 07-03-2017, 17:39 Thread Starter
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Thanks mate, I haven't updated in a while, but believe me more updates are coming very soon, I have fixed 99% of my issues with the turbo TF, and have started working on the outside, I have some 17" MGZS 180 eleven spoke alloys (will need adaptors) to go on and some s2000 wing mirrors as a possibility.
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post #49 of 63 (permalink) Old 08-03-2017, 09:35
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Epic build.. a credit to you..

i am curious about your choice of air intake position..

that place above the head coolant outlet pipes, is one of the hottest places in the engine bay.. ( turbo excluded ) since its above the exhaust too..

maybe ok this time of year, but on a hot summers day, in traffic.. that place gets really hot.. hot coolant, hot exhaust, little airflow..

have you measured the air temp there?
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post #50 of 63 (permalink) Old 08-03-2017, 20:46 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Incony View Post
Epic build.. a credit to you..

i am curious about your choice of air intake position..

that place above the head coolant outlet pipes, is one of the hottest places in the engine bay.. ( turbo excluded ) since its above the exhaust too..

maybe ok this time of year, but on a hot summers day, in traffic.. that place gets really hot.. hot coolant, hot exhaust, little airflow..

have you measured the air temp there?
Cheers m8.

It was not really a choice more of a space thing, I will be moving the air fitler position soon, but the engine bay is now extremly tight so routing pipes is very difficult, I would like to get it alot closer to the
ait vent on the passenger side or possibly using a viper enclosed kit from mike satur.
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post #51 of 63 (permalink) Old 08-03-2017, 22:05
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Working on a TF is like playing tetris.

You are never sure what parts you're going to get, but you still have to try and get them all to fit.
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post #52 of 63 (permalink) Old 08-03-2017, 22:56 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stargatemunky View Post
Working on a TF is like playing tetris.

You are never sure what parts you're going to get, but you still have to try and get them all to fit.
Could'nt agree more, I somtimes think by time I am finished with it, it will weigh about 2 tonn and be slower than when I started lol.
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post #53 of 63 (permalink) Old 08-03-2017, 23:09
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Originally Posted by MGTF-T View Post
Could'nt agree more, I somtimes think by time I am finished with it, it will weigh about 2 tonn and be slower than when I started lol.
There's a guy running a lotus K-series who has stripped his car down to something like 650kilos. What the interesting bit is though is he's run that engine at 382hp at around 27psi for several thousand miles of track days and dynos now on only a modified cylinder head.

He's still going to forge the engine before he uses it in an Australian time attack but if you are careful with the engine build you can get stupid power with whoosh snails.

There's another Greek guy on here who has done something similar with a TF on stock parts for something like 260hp but the guy does 70-80mph in residential areas in it so I don't much follow his work other than the basics.

Anyway, don't worry about the weight. Someone on here recently was stripping off screws and other random bits to lighten the TF but the car is pretty light for a convertible to begin with.

You can always end up transferring it all into an MG Midget if you really want some crazy power to weight.
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post #54 of 63 (permalink) Old 09-03-2017, 07:34 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stargatemunky View Post
There's a guy running a lotus K-series who has stripped his car down to something like 650kilos. What the interesting bit is though is he's run that engine at 382hp at around 27psi for several thousand miles of track days and dynos now on only a modified cylinder head.

He's still going to forge the engine before he uses it in an Australian time attack but if you are careful with the engine build you can get stupid power with whoosh snails.

There's another Greek guy on here who has done something similar with a TF on stock parts for something like 260hp but the guy does 70-80mph in residential areas in it so I don't much follow his work other than the basics.

Anyway, don't worry about the weight. Someone on here recently was stripping off screws and other random bits to lighten the TF but the car is pretty light for a convertible to begin with.

You can always end up transferring it all into an MG Midget if you really want some crazy power to weight.
650kg at 382bhp, that must me an animal, its getting close to a Bugatti Veyron in BHP per tonn.
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post #55 of 63 (permalink) Old 09-03-2017, 09:58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Incony View Post
that place above the head coolant outlet pipes, is one of the hottest places in the engine bay.. ( turbo excluded ) since its above the exhaust too..

maybe ok this time of year, but on a hot summers day, in traffic.. that place gets really hot.. hot coolant, hot exhaust, little airflow..

have you measured the air temp there?

This is how hot it will get there. This video was taken with the engine cover off, so it will be a lot hotter...


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post #56 of 63 (permalink) Old 09-03-2017, 10:41
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Originally Posted by MGTF-T View Post
650kg at 382bhp, that must me an animal, its getting close to a Bugatti Veyron in BHP per tonn.
https://www.facebook.com/projectmantiselise/

Not as much because he has alternated the weight for downforce... a LOT of it.

Similar to how the Dodge Viper does it with it's giant wing.

Also my figure is going off memory so could be wrong.
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post #57 of 63 (permalink) Old 09-03-2017, 14:13 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xr3tf View Post
This is how hot it will get there. This video was taken with the engine cover off, so it will be a lot hotter...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FlwVvrA-asw
Yes its a bit of a worry lol, I have a sensors in a couple of places inside the engine bay so I can see how any airflow modds directly affect things, did you have a turbo
blanket on your setup, with a turbo blanket on you can touch the turbo housing whilst revving it up. mine is a thermal zero one like this one.


Last edited by MGTF-T; 09-03-2017 at 15:56.
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post #58 of 63 (permalink) Old 09-03-2017, 16:04 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stargatemunky View Post
https://www.facebook.com/projectmantiselise/

Not as much because he has alternated the weight for downforce... a LOT of it.

Similar to how the Dodge Viper does it with it's giant wing.

Also my figure is going off memory so could be wrong.
Wow that is alot of downfoce, he will be able to drive it upside down in a tunnel soon, very interesting read on facebook, its incredible that the stock internals can take that sort of horsepower.
I thought the pisons would of melted lol.
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post #59 of 63 (permalink) Old 09-03-2017, 16:47
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I thought the pisons would of melted lol.
Apparently not, but I doubt it would last in the long term without a forged build.

The liners would just fall apart over time so things like that and the piston rings would just wear out super quick.
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post #60 of 63 (permalink) Old 09-03-2017, 19:54
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you need a space that can suck cool still air... not vent pressurized... the coolest stillest air is around the rear bumper where it meets the chassis. even in it..

the vent circulation is turbulent.. and changes a lot dependent on circumstance..


i know that one thinks that the air outside the vents is cool... thats ******** really.. its affected not only by driving circumstance but by road temperature , and weather conditions of all sorts..too.. you want rain in in your intake? road dirt coming back from the front wheels?hot air that just passed through the rad ? sometimes the air vents actually vent hot air out... not cool air in.. the engine bay is very hot... and the circulation air currents dont favour the vents at all.

you need a temperature sensor.. multimeters have them... and on a hot day.. with the car at standstill, choose a place that has the coolest stillest air.. not moving air..

then you have a known factor... MGF did that when they made the air circulation tests, ( i cant find this mo.) and the coolest stillest air was down near the rear bumper, because the bumper is an insulator.. and the backdraft caused by the cars motion , favoured it... thats where the original air feed was placed.. not the vents at all.

?

if you think MGF were wrong.. ( a lot of folks do- because they like bling ) then consider how much it cost them to make the air circulation map.. and why after paying for all that time and money.. they didnt put the air intake in a glowing chrome bauble near the top of the engine.. but a hidden place.. where one cant see it at all.

Last edited by Incony; 09-03-2017 at 20:14.
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