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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-05-2017, 12:35 Thread Starter
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Oil filter sandwich adapter

Has anyone tried fitting one of these adapters to the oil filter? It seems that there isn't a lot of space between the oil filter and the downpipe, do you reckon this can cause an issue with heat if the filter gets even closer? I am keen on getting rid of the stupid clock and oil temp gauge and replacing them with an oil temp and oil pressure gauges with sensors and lines running from the sandwich adapter.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-05-2017, 14:23
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Could you not just use two (1/8 NPT FEMALE to M12x1.5) if you just wanting to change the clocks, this is what I did on my turbo for the oil pressure guage.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-05-2017, 14:26 Thread Starter
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This is very interesting, what you have is exactly what I would like to achieve Is it possible to write a few lines with how you went about it? What gauges are these?
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-05-2017, 14:56
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Well its pretty easy to be honesy, take the centre console out and the old guages just unscrew, my cheap "Dragon Sport" guages ( 52mm I believe they were) just fitted stright in with a bit of hot glue to fix them in place. all they need to work is an ignition live, Ground (I got both from the headunit) then
the green wire runs all the way to the sensor, you need to bear in mind that removing the OEM oil pressure sensor will dissable to oil pressure warning lamp on the dash an also might throw a code on the ECU and other possible issues. to get arround this you could use a brass t piece and still run
the oem oil pressure sensor, let me know if you get stuck with anything.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-05-2017, 17:16 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGTF-T View Post
Well its pretty easy to be honesy, take the centre console out and the old guages just unscrew, my cheap "Dragon Sport" guages ( 52mm I believe they were) just fitted stright in with a bit of hot glue to fix them in place. all they need to work is an ignition live, Ground (I got both from the headunit) then
the green wire runs all the way to the sensor, you need to bear in mind that removing the OEM oil pressure sensor will dissable to oil pressure warning lamp on the dash an also might throw a code on the ECU and other possible issues. to get arround this you could use a brass t piece and still run
the oem oil pressure sensor, let me know if you get stuck with anything.
Thanks for the write-up, this is very useful. I'll sleep on it - what I was thinking was a bit more "orthogonal" change, leave the OEM sensors in place and with the sandwich plate just run two new sensors straight to the gauges.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 13-05-2017, 12:19
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Originally Posted by nick1981 View Post
Thanks for the write-up, this is very useful. I'll sleep on it - what I was thinking was a bit more "orthogonal" change, leave the OEM sensors in place and with the sandwich plate just run two new sensors straight to the gauges.
Should be easy if you can get a sandwich adaptor that will fit in the space.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 13-05-2017, 12:43
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Ive used them on my ZR oil temp was fine on road but as far as I know all sandwich plates are 1/8NPT thread size for after market sensors
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 14-05-2017, 00:36 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MGTF-T View Post
Should be easy if you can get a sandwich adaptor that will fit in the space.
Apparently, there is a converter that allows you to fit a low profile oil filter

Low Profile Oilfilter (K-series Engine) [MF8LPF] - €11.25 : Elise Shop, Performance parts for your Lotus Elise

I think I'll go down that route, see what happens.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 14-05-2017, 11:00
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I looked at them but it would still have hit the exaust / turbo housing in my case.

Good luck with your project and try to post some pics when you are done!
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 14-05-2017, 11:21 Thread Starter
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I looked at them but it would still have hit the exaust / turbo housing in my case.

Good luck with your project and try to post some pics when you are done!
Thanks!! Will do - I am still researching the whole thing at the moment. I don't have a way of working with the car all by myself given that I can only park it on the street and therefore I cannot raise it etc. This is a bit of a bummer because i would like to. However, I found some guys near me who run a workshop in a small industrial unit, more like a shed, who seem keen to get some business and help. I'll go tomorrow to have a new cat fitted and also have a chat about it. The good thing with them, apart from them actually enjoying it themselves rather than seeing it as a 9-5 job, is that you can stick around and talk about it, maybe even help. My regular garage is more like a hospital in this sense. You hand over everything at the reception and then they hand you back the car. What happens in between is a bit of a mystery and therefore it is not ideal for a more bespoke situation. I understand them, health and safety and all, but I sometimes have the feeling that no matter how enthusiastic you are at the end of the day for them it is more like yet another job.

In any case, the idea is to stick a sandwich adapter with an oil temperature and pressure sensor, run the lines to the cabin and replace the two gauges with ProSport ones. Also drill a hole to the cat for a wideband lambda while leaving the factory one in place, again run the line to the cabin to a third gauge for AFR.

Last edited by nick1981; 14-05-2017 at 11:49.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 15-05-2017, 15:20 Thread Starter
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I guess I am lucky, I had a look today while changing the cat and there is plenty of space between the oil filter and the 4-2-1 manifold so no need for a low profile filter. Probably because the manifold is a Piper, maybe slightly tighter than OEM. Even with the sandwich plate there should be more than 5 cm clearance.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 18-05-2017, 20:39 Thread Starter
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New gauges arrived. Before I go ahead with the wiring and since I've never done this before can I confirm the following? The gauges need

1. 12V constant
2. 12V accessory
3. ground
4. 12V headlight switch (for dimming when the lights are on during night-time)

Instead of cutting cables from here and there I bought a few add-a-circuit cables that plug on existing fuse sockets in the fuse box and give a second wire with its own fuse for additional wiring. The idea is to find the right fuses, stick these cables in and crimp the connections. I suppose another benefit is that you can do all the wiring in advance and stick the add a circuit bit in the fuse socket when ready. This way I would assume the battery doesn't need to be unplugged? For the ground I'll found a ground point somewhere, I believe there is one next to the driver's seat etc (suggestions welcomed). Does this sound reasonable so far?

For No 1 I am thinking the cigar lighter fuse (which is F1 in the TF)
For No 2 I am thinking the radio/oil temperature fuse (which is F15 in the TF)
For No 3 Some ground point
For No 4 I am thinking the front sidelight RH (which is F11 in the TF)

Does this sound ok?

Thanks!!
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 19-05-2017, 20:32
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I have not used the plug in things before so I dont know (I just cut a solder), perhaps somone that has used them could chime in.
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