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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-05-2017, 12:35 Thread Starter
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Oil filter sandwich adapter

Has anyone tried fitting one of these adapters to the oil filter? It seems that there isn't a lot of space between the oil filter and the downpipe, do you reckon this can cause an issue with heat if the filter gets even closer? I am keen on getting rid of the stupid clock and oil temp gauge and replacing them with an oil temp and oil pressure gauges with sensors and lines running from the sandwich adapter.
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-05-2017, 14:23
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Could you not just use two (1/8 NPT FEMALE to M12x1.5) if you just wanting to change the clocks, this is what I did on my turbo for the oil pressure guage.

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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-05-2017, 14:26 Thread Starter
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This is very interesting, what you have is exactly what I would like to achieve Is it possible to write a few lines with how you went about it? What gauges are these?
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-05-2017, 14:56
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Well its pretty easy to be honesy, take the centre console out and the old guages just unscrew, my cheap "Dragon Sport" guages ( 52mm I believe they were) just fitted stright in with a bit of hot glue to fix them in place. all they need to work is an ignition live, Ground (I got both from the headunit) then
the green wire runs all the way to the sensor, you need to bear in mind that removing the OEM oil pressure sensor will dissable to oil pressure warning lamp on the dash an also might throw a code on the ECU and other possible issues. to get arround this you could use a brass t piece and still run
the oem oil pressure sensor, let me know if you get stuck with anything.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-05-2017, 17:16 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGTF-T View Post
Well its pretty easy to be honesy, take the centre console out and the old guages just unscrew, my cheap "Dragon Sport" guages ( 52mm I believe they were) just fitted stright in with a bit of hot glue to fix them in place. all they need to work is an ignition live, Ground (I got both from the headunit) then
the green wire runs all the way to the sensor, you need to bear in mind that removing the OEM oil pressure sensor will dissable to oil pressure warning lamp on the dash an also might throw a code on the ECU and other possible issues. to get arround this you could use a brass t piece and still run
the oem oil pressure sensor, let me know if you get stuck with anything.
Thanks for the write-up, this is very useful. I'll sleep on it - what I was thinking was a bit more "orthogonal" change, leave the OEM sensors in place and with the sandwich plate just run two new sensors straight to the gauges.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 13-05-2017, 12:19
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Originally Posted by nick1981 View Post
Thanks for the write-up, this is very useful. I'll sleep on it - what I was thinking was a bit more "orthogonal" change, leave the OEM sensors in place and with the sandwich plate just run two new sensors straight to the gauges.
Should be easy if you can get a sandwich adaptor that will fit in the space.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 13-05-2017, 12:43
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Ive used them on my ZR oil temp was fine on road but as far as I know all sandwich plates are 1/8NPT thread size for after market sensors
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 14-05-2017, 00:36 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MGTF-T View Post
Should be easy if you can get a sandwich adaptor that will fit in the space.
Apparently, there is a converter that allows you to fit a low profile oil filter

Low Profile Oilfilter (K-series Engine) [MF8LPF] - €11.25 : Elise Shop, Performance parts for your Lotus Elise

I think I'll go down that route, see what happens.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 14-05-2017, 11:00
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I looked at them but it would still have hit the exaust / turbo housing in my case.

Good luck with your project and try to post some pics when you are done!
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 14-05-2017, 11:21 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MGTF-T View Post
I looked at them but it would still have hit the exaust / turbo housing in my case.

Good luck with your project and try to post some pics when you are done!
Thanks!! Will do - I am still researching the whole thing at the moment. I don't have a way of working with the car all by myself given that I can only park it on the street and therefore I cannot raise it etc. This is a bit of a bummer because i would like to. However, I found some guys near me who run a workshop in a small industrial unit, more like a shed, who seem keen to get some business and help. I'll go tomorrow to have a new cat fitted and also have a chat about it. The good thing with them, apart from them actually enjoying it themselves rather than seeing it as a 9-5 job, is that you can stick around and talk about it, maybe even help. My regular garage is more like a hospital in this sense. You hand over everything at the reception and then they hand you back the car. What happens in between is a bit of a mystery and therefore it is not ideal for a more bespoke situation. I understand them, health and safety and all, but I sometimes have the feeling that no matter how enthusiastic you are at the end of the day for them it is more like yet another job.

In any case, the idea is to stick a sandwich adapter with an oil temperature and pressure sensor, run the lines to the cabin and replace the two gauges with ProSport ones. Also drill a hole to the cat for a wideband lambda while leaving the factory one in place, again run the line to the cabin to a third gauge for AFR.

Last edited by nick1981; 14-05-2017 at 11:49.
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 15-05-2017, 15:20 Thread Starter
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I guess I am lucky, I had a look today while changing the cat and there is plenty of space between the oil filter and the 4-2-1 manifold so no need for a low profile filter. Probably because the manifold is a Piper, maybe slightly tighter than OEM. Even with the sandwich plate there should be more than 5 cm clearance.
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 18-05-2017, 20:39 Thread Starter
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New gauges arrived. Before I go ahead with the wiring and since I've never done this before can I confirm the following? The gauges need

1. 12V constant
2. 12V accessory
3. ground
4. 12V headlight switch (for dimming when the lights are on during night-time)

Instead of cutting cables from here and there I bought a few add-a-circuit cables that plug on existing fuse sockets in the fuse box and give a second wire with its own fuse for additional wiring. The idea is to find the right fuses, stick these cables in and crimp the connections. I suppose another benefit is that you can do all the wiring in advance and stick the add a circuit bit in the fuse socket when ready. This way I would assume the battery doesn't need to be unplugged? For the ground I'll found a ground point somewhere, I believe there is one next to the driver's seat etc (suggestions welcomed). Does this sound reasonable so far?

For No 1 I am thinking the cigar lighter fuse (which is F1 in the TF)
For No 2 I am thinking the radio/oil temperature fuse (which is F15 in the TF)
For No 3 Some ground point
For No 4 I am thinking the front sidelight RH (which is F11 in the TF)

Does this sound ok?

Thanks!!
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 19-05-2017, 20:32
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I have not used the plug in things before so I dont know (I just cut a solder), perhaps somone that has used them could chime in.
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-06-2017, 00:55 Thread Starter
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Half-way through fitting the gauges, it has been hard work so far. I've taken photos and I'll post them on a separate thread when everything is working. I run the senders from the gauges, behind the radio unit, next to the gear stick and all the way behind the little cubby box. I can see there is other cabling there and I would like to believe there is a grommet that leads to the engine bay area and therefore to the oil filter. This bit I cannot do myself so it will be done this week when I take the car for an oil change. We'll fit the sandwich plate then. Can I confirm that there is indeed a way to squeeze the cables into the engine bay from there?

Regarding the gauges, they are now in place and they power on although they don't go amber when I switch on the dash lights. I tried fuses 11 and 13, I'll try the dipped beam fuses tomorrow. Bit of a bummer if that change doesn't do it because that means I'll have to remove the cable and redo the crimping
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-06-2017, 09:42
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The wiring under the console only goes as far as the T bar, the main looms run down the sills, most of the engine loom runs along the passenger side.

It will be possible to run the wiring all the way from the dash to the engine bay without disabling the car.
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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-06-2017, 10:04 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Talkingcars View Post
The wiring under the console only goes as far as the T bar, the main looms run down the sills, most of the engine loom runs along the passenger side.

It will be possible to run the wiring all the way from the dash to the engine bay without disabling the car.
Thanks for the tips!

Is there a way to go from under the console where all the cables are now to the engine bay or will I have to undo it e.g exit from behind the passenger seat and meet the main loom somewhere there. I have a feeling that going from the dash along the passenger footwell/seat is a dash out job.
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-06-2017, 10:54
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Just run it under the carpet, following the edge of the T bar until you find the main cable run.

You might find that to create enough room to work it might help to take the passenger side seat out - this will make peeling the carpet back and spotting the loom far easier too.
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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-06-2017, 15:48 Thread Starter
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OK I sort of did it. I run the cables from the cubby box area, into the hole, behind the passenger seat, underneath the carpet, next to the main loom and left it at that. Happy with that. The next challenge seems to be how to get them into the engine bay area. I used a torch and had a look underneath the T-bar at the grommet through which the main loom goes into the engine bay. It looks as if nothing else can squeeze through this hole, everything is very tight. Now I couldn't see very well but if that is indeed the case, what do people usually do?
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-06-2017, 16:44
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Not seen the particular grommet and loom section that you are referring to, but on other cars with limited space I have simply punctured the grommet to the side of the main loom/cable run with a metal skewer (or similar) with the cable taped to it.

When you extract the skewer the rubber of the grommet seals around the cable again to prevent any water or dirt ingress.

Hope that helps you a bit.

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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-06-2017, 16:54 Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Not seen the particular grommet and loom section that you are referring to, but on other cars with limited space I have simply punctured the grommet to the side of the main loom/cable run with a metal skewer (or similar) with the cable taped to it.

When you extract the skewer the rubber of the grommet seals around the cable again to prevent any water or dirt ingress.

Hope that helps you a bit.
The loom section is the one running between the door and the passenger seat, then going up and underneath the T-bar cover almost under the seatbelt metal thingy (not sure how it is called), I think there is an opening there where the loom goes into the engine bay. This is where the aerial cable is also coming from. Thanks for the tip, I think for this I will need the engine inspection cover off so I'll try that tomorrow if the weather is good. I'll prepare some extension cables tonight instead
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