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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-11-2016, 20:43 Thread Starter
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Paint help needed

This is for my 75, but maybe there'll be a paint expert on here.

Any paint experts out there? I've done a fair bit of car painting in my time, but always with plain colours, where an average finish can be improved by cutting with 1200 grit wet-and-dry and/or a polishing compound, T-Cut etc.

I've knocked out, filled, and flatted the dent my lovely wife made for me, and sprayed it with Black Pearlescent from a rattle-can. Now, the finish definitely needs polishing up, but should I polish it before and/or after applying the lacquer?

I suspect both, but I'm slightly concerned that I might dull the surface of the base coat and then it will always be dull under the lacquer.

Any thoughts?

PS - the F failed it's MoT yesterday. More sill welding needed. Think I'll just get it patched again this year, then get myself set up with welding kit again. I used to do a fair bit, but sold it all when we went to Oz. Anyone know if these new fangled gasless mig welders are any good?
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-11-2016, 22:55
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The colour coat and clear coat is best applied as a single operation, just leaving the colour coat to flash off before the first clear coat is applied (this allows the clear to bond properly to the colour coat, and reduces the probability of lacquer peel later). Once dried (for a few days), you then need to flat the clear coat with 2000 grit wet or dry (1200 grit will leave marks that you will find difficult to polish out), and then polish up with progressively finer compounds.

You should avoid sanding or polishing a metallic or pearlescent prior to applying the clear - you will affect the lie of the flake by removing material and will thus change the appearance of the colour and it won't match.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 13-11-2016, 06:27
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Gas less Mig

I have used both. Some people say they are not as easy to use as the gas shielded. The gas one was run with a CO2 cylinder from a fizzy drink vending machine so price of gas was not an issue. Bearing that in mind when it packed up I went for a gas less welder. Being as I'm not the best welder in the world, I can't see a lot of difference between the two.

Mine has the option of using gas shielding should you wish to try to weld ally or stainless steel.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 13-11-2016, 07:03 Thread Starter
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Thanks MITC. OK, I've got just enough colour left to do a final coat, so I'll do that then lacquer today.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 13-11-2016, 07:05 Thread Starter
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Cheers BD, I'm certainly no coded welder, so I'll probably go for gasless the same as you if I decide to get into it again.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 13-11-2016, 16:47
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Another option. i just point your way. inverter powered stick, good for welding up to 2mm but light and easy to move around and fits in a shoulder bag its that small and light. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clar...ctig-inverter/

There are more powerful inverter stick welders.. clarke make a more powerful one..


mine came in a box with everything needed to get started.. and thats its advantage... very small in a battery drill sized plastic flip top case, works on 240 v. AC.. so instant fixing possible anywhere one has a socket to plug it in.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 14-11-2016, 08:18 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Incony View Post
Another option. i just point your way. inverter powered stick, good for welding up to 2mm but light and easy to move around and fits in a shoulder bag its that small and light. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clar...ctig-inverter/

There are more powerful inverter stick welders.. clarke make a more powerful one..


mine came in a box with everything needed to get started.. and thats its advantage... very small in a battery drill sized plastic flip top case, works on 240 v. AC.. so instant fixing possible anywhere one has a socket to plug it in.
Interesting. does it "feel" like Arc or MIG welding? Personally I find MIG much easier - I always struggle to strike an Arc with Arc welders.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 14-11-2016, 09:04 Thread Starter
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Follow-up question, to which I should know the answer, but I haven't done this for a long time!

With the wet-and-dry and the polishing compounds, should I go in straight lines or circular/random motion?
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 14-11-2016, 09:52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JensenHealey View Post
Follow-up question, to which I should know the answer, but I haven't done this for a long time!

With the wet-and-dry and the polishing compounds, should I go in straight lines or circular/random motion?
The wet and dry needs to be in one direction.Soak the paper 10 mins before use and use a bit of fairy liquid in your water.

Polishing wants to be in circular motions although G3 compounds are best done with a machine if its a substantial area.Its hard work and again best done with water,depending on what your using.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 14-11-2016, 10:13 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JT Dent View Post
The wet and dry needs to be in one direction.Soak the paper 10 mins before use and use a bit of fairy liquid in your water.

Polishing wants to be in circular motions although G3 compounds are best done with a machine if its a substantial area.Its hard work and again best done with water,depending on what your using.
Thanks JTD, that's what I suspected but worth checking!
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